
flass T A "7 l S 

Book 'X°i 3 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



As the directions which follow were intended for the 
conduct of the families of the authoress's own daughters, 
and for the arrangement of their table, so as to unite a 
good figure with proper economy, she has avoided all 
excessive luxury, such as essence of ham, and that 
wasteful expenditure of large quantities of meat for 
gravy, which so greatly contributes to keep up the price, 
and is no less injurious to those who eat, than to those 
whose penury bids them abstain. Many receipts are 
given for tilings which, being in daily use, the mode of 
preparing* them may be supposed too well known to 
require a place in a cookery book ; yet how rarely do we 
meet >rith fine meitea Duuer, guud toast and water, of 
well made coffee ! She makes no apology for minuteness 
in some articles, or for leaving others unnamed, because 
she writes not for professed cooks. This little work 
would have been a treasure to herself, when she first set 
out in life, and she therefore hopes it may be useful to 
others. In that idea it is given to the public, and as she 
will receive from it no emolument, go she trusts it will 
escape without censure* 



<<v 



A 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 





Page. 


I hscellaneous observations for the use of the 




Mistress of a Family, 


1 


Different methods of cooking the several 




kinds of Fish, 


lto 17 


Observations on dressing Fish, 


17 to 2d 


On dressing Meats, 


20 to 76 


On dressing Poultry, 


76 to 87 


On making Pies, 


87 to 93 


On making Soups, 


93 to 101 


On making Gravies and Sauces, 


102 to 111 


On making Vinegars and Pickles, 


112 to 124 


On making Stews, 


124 to 127 


On making Salads and boiling Vegetables, 


128 to 131 


Small Dishes for Supper, 


131 


Forcemeat fur rauies, Balls, or stuffing, 


132 


Pastry, 


133 to 141 


Puddings, 


142 to 159 


Sweet Dishes, 


159 to 186 


Fruits, 


186 to 210 


Ices, 


210 to 212 


Cakes, ' 


212 to 229 


French Bread, 


229 


Tc make and preserve Yeast, 


ibid. 


To pot and roast Cheese, 


230 


To poach Eggs, 


231 


On managing a Dairy, 


231 to 235 


Home Brewery, 


236 to 247 


Cookery for the Sick, 


247 to 264 


Cookery for the Poor, 


264 to 268 


Useful Directions to give to Servants. 


269 to 276 


a2 






9@teceHaneotm Ditfertiations 

FOR THE USE OF /^^rt^^. / tftf 

THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY ; 

BY WHICH MUCH MONEY WILL BE SAVED, AND THE 
GENERAL APPEARANCE GREATLY IMPROVED. 



1 HE mistress of a family should always remem- 
ber that the welfare and good management of the 
house depend on the eye of the superior ; and con- 
sequently that nothing is too trifling for her notice, 
whereby waste may be avoided ; and this attention is 
of more importance,now that the price of every nec- 
essary of life is increased to an enormous degree. 

If a lady has never been accustomed, while single, 
to think of family management, let her not upon 
that account fear that she cannot attain it ; she may 
consult others who are more experienced, and ac- 
quaint herself with the necessary quantities of the 
several articles of family expenditure in proportion 
to the number it consists of. 

A minute account of the annual income, and the 
limes of payment, should be taken in writing ; like- 
Avise an estimate of the supposed amount of each 



11 



article of expense; and those who are early accus- 
tomed to, calculations on domestic articles, will ac- 
quire so accurate a knowledge of what their estab- 
lishment requires, as will give them the happy 
medium between prodigality and parsimon, , without 
acquiring the character of meanness. 

Ready money shouldbe paid for all such things as 
come not into weekly bills ; and the best places for 
purchasing be attended to. In some articles a dis- 
count of five per cent, is allowed in London, and 
other large cities ; andthosewho thuspay are usually 
best served. Under the idea of buying cheap, many 
people go to new shops ; but it is safest to deal with 
people of established credit, who do not dispose of 
bad goods by underselling. 

To make people wait for their money injures them 
greatly, besides that a higher price must be charg- 
ed : perhaps the irregularity of payment may have 
much evil influence on the price of various articles, 
and contribute to the destruction of many families, 
*:n gradation downwards. 

It is very necessary for a woman to be informed 
of the prices and goodness of all articles in common 
rise, and of the best times, as well as places, for pur- 
chasing them. She should also be acquainted with 
the comparative prices of provisions, in order that 
she may be able to substitute those that are most 
reasonable, when they will answer as well, for others 
of the same kind, but which are more costly. A false 
notion of economy leads many to purchase as bar- 



Ill 



gains what is not wanted, and sometimes never is 
used. Were this error avoided, more money would 
remain for other purposes. Some things are better 
for keeping, and, being in constant consumption, 
should be laid in accordingly ; such as paper, soap, 
and candles. Of these more hereafter. 

A proper quantity of household articles should 
be always ready, and more bought in before the 
others be consumed, to prevent inconvenience, 
especially in the country. 

A bill of parcels and receipts should be required, 
even if the money be paid at the time of purchase ; 
and, to avoid mistakes, let the goods be compared 
with these when brought home. 

Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any 
one's honesty, and perhaps mistakes have been un- 
intentional, yet it is prudent to weigh meat, sugars, 
8cc. when brought in, and compare with the charge. 
The. butcher should be ordered to send the weight 
with the meat, and the cook to file these checks, 
to be examined when the weekly bill shall be de- 
livered. 

A ticket should be given by the cook for each loaf, 
which will on return give the number to be paid for. 

Thus regularly conducted, the exact slate of 
money affairs will be known with ease ; for it is 
delay of payment that occasions confusion. 

Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the 
smallest articles omitted to be entered ; and if 
balanced every week and month, the income and 
outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their 
proportions to other be duly observed. Some peo- 



IV 



pie approve of keeping in separate purses the 
money for different purposes, as domestic articles, 
clothes, pocket, education of children, &c. 

Whichever way accounts be kept, some cer- 
tain method should be adopted and strictly ad- 
hered to. 

Many families have owed their prosperity full 
as much to the conduct and propriety of female 
management, as to the knowledge and activity of 
the father. 

Those who are served with brewer's beer, or 
any other thing not paid for on delivery, should 
have a book for entering the date ; which will not 
only prevent overcharges, but at one view give the 
annual consumption. 

It is much to be feared, that for the waste of 
many of the good things that God has given for 
our use, not abuse, the mistress and servants of 
great houses will hereafter be called to a strict ac- 
count. 

Some part of every person's fortune should be 
devoted to charity ; bv which " a pious Ionian will 
build up her house before God, while she thai is 
foolish (i. e. lends nothing to the Lord) pulls it 
down with her hands." No one can connph.r of the 
want of gifts to the poor in this land ; but t v ere is 
a mode of relief which would add greath to their 
comfort, and which being prepared from super- 
fluity, and such materials as are ofte thrown awav,. 
the expense woukl not be felt. In the latter part 
of this work some hints for preparing the above 
are given. 



By good hours, especially early breakfast, a fam- 
ily is more regular, and much time is saved. If 
orders be given soon in the morning, there will be 
more time to execute them ; and servants, by 
doing their work with ease, will be more equal to 
it, and fewer will be necessary. 

It is worthy of notice, that the general expense 
will be reduced, if every thing be kept in its proper 
place, applied to its proper use, and mended, when 
the nature of an accident will allow, as soon as 
broken. 

An inventory of furniture, linen, and china, 
should be kept, and the things examined by it 
twice a year, or oftener, if there be a change of 
servants ; into each of whose care the articles used 
by him or her, should be intrusted, with a list, as 
is done with plate. Tickets of parchment with the 
family name, numbered, and specifying what bed 
it belongs to, should be sewed on each feather bed, 
bolster, pillows, and blankets. 

Many wellmeaning servants are ignorant of the 
best means of managing, and thereby waste as 
much as would maintain a small family, besides 
causing the mistress of the house much chagrin 
by their irregularity ; and many families, from a 
want of method, have the appearance of chance 
rather than of regular system. To avoid which 
the following hints may be useful. 

All things likely to be wanted should be in 
readiness ; sugars of different qualities should be 
kept broken, currants washed, picked and dry in a 
jar j spice pounded, &c. 



VI 



Where regular noonings or suppers are used 
(and in every house some preparation is necessa- 
ry for accidental visitors), care shoud be taken to 
have such things in readiness as may be proper 
for either ; a list of several v ill be subjoined, a 
change of which will be agreeable:, and if properly 
managed will be attended with no great expense. 

Every article should be kept in that place best 
suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoid- 
ed, viz. 

Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor if the 
air be excluded : meat in a cold dry place : sugar 
and sweetmeats require a dry place ; so does salt : 
candies cold, but not damp : dried meats, hams, Sec. 
the same : all sorts of seeds for puddings, saloop, 
rice, Sec. should be close covered to preserve from 
insects. Flour should be kept in a cool perfectly 
dry room, and the bag being tied should be changed 
upside down and back every week, and well shaken. 
Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in pieces 
that form a long square, when first brought in, 
and kept out of the air two or three weeks ; for if 
it dry quick, it will crack, and when wet break. 
Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between, and let 
it grow hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full 
third in the consumption. Cheese s!'Oiiid be 
washed and wiped if you wish to preserve it sound, 
and the shelves be washed ; changing the place 
every three or four weeks ; but if it be wanted to 
ripen, a damp cellar will bring it forward. 

Bread is now so heavy an article of expense that 
all waste should be guarded against, and having it 



Vll 



cut in the room will tend much to prevent it ; since 
the scarcity in 1795 and 1800, that custom has 
been much adopted. It should not be cut until a 
day old ; earthen pans and covers keep it best. 

Rolls, muffins, or any sort of bread, may be 
made to taste new when two or three days old, by 
dipping it uncut in water, and baking afresh or 
toasting. 

Eggs may be bought cheapest when the hens 
first begin to lay in the spring, before they sit : 
in Lent and at Easter they become clear. They 
may be preserved fresh by dipping them in boil- 
ing water, and instantly taking them out,or by oiling 
the shell ; either of which ways is to prevent the 
air passing through it. They should be kept on 
shelves with small holes to receive one in each, 
and be turned every other day. 

Carrots, parsnips, and beet roots, should be kept 
in sand for winter use, and neither they nor pota- 
toes be cleared from the earth. 

Stor: onions preserve best hung up in a dry cold 
room. 

Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to 
prevent a musty taste. 

Large pears should be tied up by the stalk. 

Tarragon gives the flavour of French cookery, 
and in high gravies is a great improvement ; but 
should be added only a short time before serving. 

Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London 
thyme, to be used when herbs are ordered ; but 
with discretion, as they are very pungent. 

Celery seeds give the flavour of the plant to soups. 



u 



VI 11 



Parsley should be cut close to the stalks, and 
dried on tins in a very cool oven : it preserves its 
flavour and colour, and is very useful in winter. 

Artichoke bottoms which have been slowly 
dried, should be kept in paper bags ; and truffles, 
morels, lemonpeel, &c. in a dry place ticketed. 

In towns, poultry being usually sold ready picked, 
the feathers, which may occasionally come in in 
small quantities, are neglected : but orders should 
be given to put them into a tub free from damp, 
and as they dry to change them into paper bags, 
a few in each ; they should hang in a dr kitchen 
to season ; fresh ones must not be added to those 
in part dried, or they will occasion a musty smell, 
but they should go through the same process. In 
a few months they will be fit to add to beds, or to 
make pillows, without the usual mode of drying 
them in a cool oven, which may be pursued if they 
are wanted before five or six months. 

The best means to preserve blankets from moths 
is to fold and lay them under the featherbeds that 
are in use, and they should be shaken occasionally. 
When soiled, they should be washed, not scoured. 

Candles made in cool weather are best ; and 
when their price, and that of soap, which rise and 
fall together, is likely to be higher, it will be pru- 
dent to lay in the stock of both. This information 
the chandler can always i>ive ; they are better for 
keeping eight or ten months, and will not injure 
for two years, if properly placed in the cool ; and 
there are few articles that better deserve care in 



IX 



buying, and allowing a due quantity of, according 
to the size of the family. 

The price of starch depends upon that of flour ; 
the best will keep good in a dry warm room for 
some years ; therefore when bread is cheap, it may 
be bought to advantage, and covered close. 

Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved 
from air ; where the former are much used, small 
jars of each should be taken from the stock jar, to 
prevent frequent opening. 

Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice 
should be pared, first to preserve the peel dry ; 
some should be halved, and when squeezed, the 
pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating. 
If for boiling in any liquid, the first way is best. 
When these fruits are cheap, a proper quantity 
should be bought, and prepared as hereafter direct- 
ed, especially by those who live in the country, 
where they cannot always be had ; and they are 
perpetually wanted in cookery. 

When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other 
purposes, contrive to have pudding, custard, &c. 
to employ the yelks also. Should you not want 
them for several hours, beat them up with a little 
water, and put them in a cool place, or they will 
be hardened and useless. It was a mistake of old, 
to think that the whites made cakes and puddings 
heavy ; on the contrary, if beaten long and sepa- 
rately, they contribute greatly to give lightness, are 
an advantage to paste, and make a pretty dish 
beaten with fruit, to set in cream, &c. 



X 



If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the 
cook should be charged to be very careful not to 
let the tin be rubbed off; and to have them fresh 
done when the least defect appears, and never to 
put by any soup, gravy, Sec. in them, or any metal 
utensil ; stone and earthen vessels should be pro- 
vided for those purposes, as likewise plenty of 
common dishes, that the table set may not be used 
to put by cold meat. 

Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and 
glazed red ware, by which a strong poison is pro- 
duced. 

Vinegar by its acidity does the same, the glazing 
being of lead or arsenic. 

In hot weather, when it is difficult to preserve 
milk from becoming sour, and spoiling the cream, 
it may be kept perfectly sweet by scalding the new 
milk very gently, without boiling, and setting it by 
in the earthen dish or pan that it is done in. This 
method is pursued in Devonshire, and the milk 
is not skimmed under twenty four hours, and 
would equally answer in small quantities for coffee, 
tea, &c. 

Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty 
four hours if scalded without sugar, and by adding 
to it as much powdered lump sugar as shall make 
it pretty sweet will be good two days, keeping it in 
a cool place. Syrup of cream may be preserved 
as above in the proportion of a pound and quarter 
of sugar to a pint of perfectly fresh cream, keep it 
in a cool place two or three hours ; then put it in 
one or two ounce phials, and cork it close. It will 



XI 

keep good thus for several weeks, and will be found 
very useful on voyages. 

To cool liquors in hot weather, dip a cloth in 
cold water, and wrap it round the bottle two or 
three times, then place it in the sun ; renew the 
process once or twice. 

The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vine- 
gar, is in a stone jar on a hot iron hearth, or by 
putting the vessel into a saucepan of water, called 
a waterbath. 

'J' he beautiful green given to pickles, formerly 
was made by the use of bellmettle, brass, or cop- 
per, and consequently very injurious to the stomach. 

If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. be suf- 
fered to boil over, the strength is lest. 

Marbles boiled in custard, or any thing likely to 
burn, will, by shaking them in the saucepan, pre- 
vent it. 

Gravies or soups, put by, should be daily changed 
into fresh scalded pans. When there is fear of 
gravy meat being spoiled before it be wanted, sea- 
son it well, and lightly fry it, which will preserve 
;t two days longer ; but the gravy is best when 
the juices are fresh. A receipt for gravy that will 
p a week is given under the article of Sauces. 

Tiie cook should be encouraged to be careful of 
is and cinders: for the latter there is a new 
contrivance to sift, without dispersing the dust of 
the ashes, by means of a covered tin bucket. 

Small coal wetted makes the strongest ffte for 
the back, but must remain untouched until it cake. 
b 2 



Xll 



Cinders, Kghtly wet, give a great degree of heat, 
and are better than coal for furnaces, ironing stoves, 
and ovens. 

The cook should be charged to take care of jelly 
bags, tapes for the collared things, &c. which, if 
not perfectly scalded, and kept dry, give an un- 
pleasant flavour when next used. 

Cold water thrown on cast iron, when hot, will 
cause it to crack. 

Hard water spoils the colour of vegetables ; a 
pinch of pearlash, or salt of wormwood, will pre- 
vent that effect. 

When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton, 
come in, part of the suet may be cut off for pud- 
dings, or to clarify ; dripping will baste every thing 
as well as butter, fowls and game excepted ; and 
for kitchen pies, nothing else should be used. 

The fat off a neck or loin of mutton makes a far 
lighter pudding than suet. 

Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched 
should be soaked in cold water two or three hours 
before they are used, or more if much iced. When 
put into hot water or to the fire until thawed, no 
heat will dress them properly. 

Meat should be well examined, when it comes in 
in warm weather ; and if flies have touched it, the 
part must be cut off, and then well washed. In the 
height of summer, it is a very safe way to let meat 
that is to be salted lie an hour in the coldest water, 
rubbing it well there in any part likely to have 
been flyblown ; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have 



Xlll 



ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, 
leaving a handful over it besides. Turn it every 
day, and rub the pickle in, which will make it 
ready for the table in three or four days ; if it is 
desired to be very much corned, wrap it in a well 
floured cloth, having rubbed it previously with salt. 
The latter method will corn fresh beef lit for table 
the day it comes in ; but it must be put into the pot 
when the water boils. 

If the weather permits, meat eats much better 
for hanging two or three days before it be salted. 

The water in which meat has boiled makes an 
excellent soup for the poor, when vegetables, oat- 
meal or pease, are added, and should not be cleared 
from the fat. 

Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make 
fine pease soup, and should be boiled with the 
pease the day before eaten, that the fat may be re- 
moved. 

The mistress of the house will find many great 
advantages in visiting her larder daily, before she 
orders her bill of fare: she will see what things 
require dressing, and thereby guard against their 
being spoiled. Many articles may be re-dressed 
in a different form from that in which they were 
first served, and improve the appearance of the 
table without increasing expense. Many dishes re- 
quire to be made of dressed meat or fowls. Direc- 
tions for several are hereafter given. 

In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind 
goes farthest ; cutting out most advantageously, 



XIV 



and affording most nourishment. Round of beef, 
fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher 
price ; but having more solid meat, deserve the 
preference. It is worth notice, however, that those 
joints which are inferior may be dressed as palata- 
bly, and being cheaper, ought to be bought in turn ; 
and, when weighed with the prime pieces, the price 
of the latter is reduced. 

In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the 
bone should be taken out, being apt to taint ; as 
likewise the kernels of beef. Rumps and aytch- 
bones of beef are often bruised by the blows the 
drovers give, and that part always taints : avoid 
purchasing such. 

The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and, 
after soaking and brushing, may be added to give 
richness to gravies or soups ; and they are partic- 
ularly nourishing for the sick. 

The feet of pork make various good dishes, and 
should be cut off before the legs be cured. Observe 
the same of the ears. 

Calves' tongues, salted, make a more useful dish 
than when dressed with the brains, which may be 
served without. 

Some people like neats' tongues cured with the 
root, in which case they look much larger ; but 
should the contrary be approved, the root must be 
cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but 
without taking away the fat under the tongue. The 
root must be soaked in salt and water, and ex- 
tremely well cleaned before it be dressed as here- 



XV 



after directed : and the tongue laid in salt for a day 
and night before pickled. 

Great attention is requisite in salting meat ; and 
in the country, where great quantities are cured, 
it is of still more importance. Beef and pork should 
be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to 
drain, before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; 
which mode, by cleansing the meat from the blood, 
tends to keep it from tasting strong. It should be 
turned daily, and if wanted soon, rubbed. A salt- 
ing tub, or lead, may be used, and a cover should 
fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt meat 
will find it answer well to boil up the pickle, skim, 
and, when cold, pour it over meat that has been 
sprinkled and drained. Salt is so greatly in- 
creased in price, from the heavy duties, as to re- 
quire additional care, and the brine ought not to be 
thrown away, as is the practice of some, after once 
vising. 

In some families great loss is sustained by the 
spoiling of meat. The best mode to keep that 
which is to be eaten unsalted is, as before directed, 
to examine it well ; wipe it daily, and pound some 
charcoal, and throw over it. If meat is brought 
from a distance in warm weather, the butcher 
should be charged to cover it close, and bring it 
early in the morning ; but even then, if it be kept 
on the road, while he serves the customers who 
are nearest to him, it will probably be flyblown. 
This is most frequent in the country. 

Mutton will keep long by washing with vinegar, 
and peppering the broad end of the leg ; if any 



xvi 



damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with 
salt lightly, it will not eat the worse. Boiled in sea- 
water, is by some much admired. 

Game is often brought in when not likely to keep 
a day, in the cook's apprehension ; yet may be 
preserved two or three days, if wanted, by the fol- 
lowing method : 

If birds, (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which 
must not be drawn) draw them, pick, and take out 
the crop ; wash them in two or three waters, and 
rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large 
saucepan of boiling water, and plunge them in one 
by one ; boil each five minutes, moving it, that the 
water may go through them. When all are fin- 
ished, hang them by the heads in a cold place ; 
when drained, pepper the inside and necks. When 
to be roasted, wash to take off the pepper. The 
most delicate birds, even growse, may be kept this 
way, if not putrid. Birds that live by suction, &c. 
bear being high ; it is probable that the heat 
might cause them to taint more, as a free passage 
for the scalding water could not be obtained. Hares 
ought not to be paunched in the field, as they 
keep longer, and eat much better without. But 
that is seldom in the cook's power to guard 
against. She should take out the liver and heart, 
and parboil the former to keep for stuffing, wipe 
the inside every day, quite dry, put a bunch of par- 
sley? or some pepper, or both ; thus it will keep 
long, especially if the seasoning be rubbed early on 
the inside to prevent any mustiness of taste, which 
often is communicated to the stuffing by this omis- 
sion, and want of extreme nicety in washing it in 



XV11 

water and vinegar before it be dressed, while the 
outside has been preserved fresh by the skin. If 
old, a hare should be kept as long as possible, ex- 
cept for soup, or jugging ; and after soaking in 
vinegar, be well larded. 

Freshwater fish has often a muddy taste ; to take 
off which, soak it in strong salt and water, or, if of a 
size to bear it, give it a scald in the same, after ex- 
tremely good cleaning and washing. The latter 
for carp or eels. 

Turbot will hang three or four days, if lightly 
rubbed with salt, and be in quite as great perfection 
as the first dav. 

J 

Fish may sometimes be bought reasonably by 
taking more than can be dressed at once ; when 
recourse may be had to pickling, potting, or frying, 
to keep for stewing a succeeding day. 

When thunder or hot weather causes beer to 
turn sour, half, or a whole teaspoonful of salt of 
wormwood should be put into a jug, and let the 
beer be drawn in it as small a time as possible be- 
fore it be drank. 

If the subject of servants be thought ill timed in 
a book upon family arrangement, it must be by 
those who do not recollect that the regularity and 
good management of the heads will be insufficient, 
if not seconded by those who are to execute orders. 
It behoves every person to be extremely careful 
who they take into their employ ; to be very minute 
in investigating the character they receive ; and 
equally cautious to be scrupulously just in giving 



XV111 

one toothers. Were this attended to, many bad peo- 
ple would be incapacitated from doing mischief, by- 
abusing the trust reposed in them. And it may be 
fairly asserted, that the robbery, or waste (which is 
but a milder epithet) of an unfaithful servant, will 
be laid to the charge of the master or mistress* 
who, knowing such faults in him, or even having 
only wellgrounded suspicions, is led by entreaty or 
false pity, to slide him into another place. To re- 
fuse countenance to the evil, is to encourage the 
good servant ; such as are honest, frugal, and atten- 
tive to their duties, should be liberally rewarded : 
and such discrimination would encourage merit, 
and inspire servants with a zeal to acquit them- 
selves with fidelity. 

On the other side it may be proper to observe, 
that a retributive justice usually marks persons in 
that station sooner or later even in this world. 
Those who are extravagant and idle in their ser- 
vitude, are ill prepared for the industry and sobri- 
ety on which their own future welfare much de- 
pends ; their faults, and the attendant punishment, 
come home when they have families of their own, 
and sometimes much sooner. They will see their 
wickedness or folly in the conduct of their offspring, 
whom they must not expect to be better than the 
examples that are set them. 

It was the observation of a sensible woman, that 
she could always read the fate of her servants when 
they married from her ; those who had been faith- 
ful and industrious in her service, continued their 



XIX 



good habits in their own families,and became respect- 
able members of the community ; those who had 
been unfaithful servants, never were successful, and 
not unfrequently were reduced to the parish. 

The manner of carving is not only a very essen- 
tial nowledge in point of doing the honours of the 
table with grace, but makes a great difference in 
the family consumption ; and, though in large com- 
panies, a lady is so much assisted as to make the 
art of less consequence, yet she should not fail to 
acquaint herself with £n attainment of which she 
must daily feel the want. Some people haggle 
meat so as not to be able to help six times from a 
large tongue, or a piece of beef. It is to be ob- 
served that a thin sharp caning knife, and with a 
very little strength to the management of it, will 
cut deep thin slices, cause the joint to look neatly, 
and leave sufficient for a second helping, instead of 
that disgusting appearance which is sometimes ob- 
servable. Habit alone can make people carve, or 
do the honours of a table well ; for those who have 
not had practice, there are very good directions in 
a little book of Trusler's. 

In the following, and indeed all other receipts, 
though the quantities may be as accurately set 
down as possible, yet much must be left to the dis- 
cretion of the person who uses them. The differ- 
ent taste of people requires more or less of the fla- 
vour of spices, garlic, butter, &c. which can never 
be directed by general rules ; and if the cook has not 
a good taste, and attention to that of her employers, 
c 



XX 



not all the ingredients with which nature or art can 
furnish her, will give an exquisite relish to her 
dishes. The proper articles should be at hand, and 
she must proportion them until the true zest be ob- 
tained. 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



FISH. 



To boil Turbot. 

x HE turbot kettle must be of a proper size, and in 
the nicest order. Set the fish in cold water to cover 
it completely: throw a handful of salt and one glass 
of vinegar into it; let it gradually boil; be very care- 
ful that there fall no blacks, but skim it well, and 
preserve the beauty of the colour. 

Serve it garnished with a complete fringe of curl- 
ed parsley, lemon, and horseradish. 

The sauce must be the finest lobster, and anchovy 
butter, and plain butter, served plentifully in sepa- 
rate tureens. 

To stew Lamfirey, as at Worcester . 

After cleaning the fish carefully, remove the car- 
tilage which runs down the back, and season with a 
small quantity of cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and 
pimento. Put it in a small stewpot, with very strong 
beef >rravy, with port and equal quantity of Madeira 
or slurry wine. 

It must be covered ; stew till tender ; then take 
out the lamprey and keep it hot, while you boil up 
the liquor with. two or three anchovies chopped, and 
some flour and butter : strain the gravy through a 



2 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

sieve, and add lemon juice and some made mustard. 
Serve with sippits of bread and horseradish. 

Eels, soals, and carp, done the same way, are ex- 
cellent. When there is spawn, it must be fried 
and put round. 

Note. Cyder instead of white wine will do in 
common. 

Eel Pye. 
Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches : 
season with pepper and salt, and place in the dish, 
with some bits of butter and a little water, and cover 
it with paste. 

Sfiitchcock Eels. 

Take a large one, leave the skin on, cut it in 
pieces of four inches long, open it on the belly side, 
and clean it nicely : wipe it dry, and then wet it 
with a beaten egg, and strew it over on both sides 
with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a very little 
sage, and a bit of mace pounded fine, and mixed 
with the seasoning. Rub the gridiron with a bit 
of suet, and broil the fish of a fine colour. 

Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce. 
Fried Eels. 

If small, they should be curled round and fried, 
being first dipped in cg^ and crumbs of bread. 
Boiled £ela. 

The small ones are preferable. Do them in a 
small quantity of water, with a good deal of parsley, 
which should be served up with them and the 
liquor. 

Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce. 



FISH. S 

Eel Broth, 
Very nourishing for the sick. 

As above ; but to be stewed two hours, and an 
onion and peppercorns added : salt to taste. 
Collared Eels. 

Bone a large eel, but do not skin it : mix pepper, 
salt, mace, pimento, and a clove or two, in the finest 
powder, and rub over the whole inside : roll it 
tight, and bind it with a coarse tape. Boil it in salt 
and water till enough ; then add vinegar, and 
when cold, keep the collar in pickle. Serve it 
whole, or in slices, garnished with parsley. Chop- 
ped sage, parsley, and a little thyme, knotted mar- 
jorum, and savory, mixed with the spices, greatly 
improve the taste. 

Perch and Tench. 

Put them in cold water, boil them Garefully, and 
serve with melted butter and soy. 
Mackerel. 

Boiled, and served with butter and fennel. 

Broiled, being split and sprinkled with herbs, 
pepper and salt ; or stuffed with the same, crumbs 
and chopped fennel. 

Collared, as eel above. 

Potted. Clean, season, and bake them in a pan, 
with spice, bayleaves, and some butter : when cold, 
lay them in a potting pot, and cover with butter. 

Pickled. Boil them ; then boil some of the liquor, 
a few peppers, bayleaves, and some vinegar: 
when cold, pour it over them, 
c 2 



I DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

To pickle Mackerel, called Caveach. 

Clean and divide, then cut each side in three ; 
or, leaving thetn undivided, cut each fish in five or 
six pieces. To six large mackerel, take near an 
ounce of pepper, two nutmegs, a little mace, four 
cloves, and a handful of salt, all in finest powder ; 
mix, and, making holes in each bit of fish, thrust 
the seasoning into them ; rub each piece with some 
of it ; then fry them brown in oil ; let them stand 
till cold, then put them into a stone jar, and cover 
With vinegar : if to keep long, pour oil on the top. 
This done, they may be preserved for months. 
To bake Pike. 

Scale it, and open as near the throat as you can ; 
then stuff it with the following : grated bread, 
herbs, anchovies, oysters, suet, salt, pepper, mace, 
half a pint of cream, four yelks of eggs ; mix all, 
over the fire, till it thickens, then put it into the fish, 
sew it up. Butter should be put over in little bits : 
bake it. Serve sauce of gravy, butter, and anchovy. 
Note. If, in helping a pike, the back and belly be 
slit up, and each slice be gently drawn downwards, 
there will be fewer bones given. 
Salmon to boil. 

Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out 
of the water as soon as done ; and let the water be 
v, arm if the fish be split. 

Shrimp or anchovy sauce. 



FISH. I 

Salmoii to pickle. 

Boil as above, take the fish out and boil the liquor 
with bay leaves, peppercorns and salt ; add vinegar 
when cold, and pour over the fish. 
Salmon to broil. 

Cut slices about an inch thick ; season, and put 
them into papers ; twist them, and broil gently. 
Serve in the papers. Anchovy sauce. 
Salmon to pot. 

Take a large piece, scale and wipe,but do not wash 
it ; salt it very well : let it lie till the salt be melted 
and drained from it, then season with beaten mace, 
cloves, and whole peppers. Lay in a few bay- 
leaves, put it close in a pan, and cover it over with 
butter, and bake it. When well done, drain it from 
the gravy, put it in the pots to keep \ and when 
cold, cover with clarified butter. 

Thus you may do any firm fish. 
Salmon to dry. 

Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. 
Rub the whole with common salt, after scaling it ; 
let it hang to drain twenty four hours. Pound three 
or four ounces of saltpetre, according to the size of 
the fish, two ounces of bay salt, and two ounces of 
coarse sugar : rub these, when mixed well, into the 
Salmon, and lay it on a large dish or tray two 
days, then rub it well with common salt, and in 
twenty four hours more it will be fit to dry : but 
you must dry it well after draining. Either hang' 
in a wood chimney, or in a dry place, keeping it 
open with two small sticks. 



6 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Lobsters to fiot. 
Boil them half, pick out the meat, cut into small 
bits : season with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, 
and salt : press close into a pot and cover with but- 
ter : bake half an hour : put the spawn in. When 
cold, take the lobster out, and with a little of the but- 
ter p-it it into the pots. Beat the other butter in a 
mortar with some of the spawn ; then mix that 
coloured butter with as much as will be sufficient 
to cover the pots, and strain it. Cayenne may be 
added, if approved. 

Another way, as at Wood's Hotel. 

Take out the meat as whole as you can ; split 
the tail and remove the gut ; if the inside be not 
watery, add that. Season with mace, nutmeg, 
white pepper, salt, and a clove or two, in finest 
powder. Lay a little fine butter at the bottom of a 
pan, and the lobster smooth over it, with bayli ives 
between : cover it with butter and bake it gently. 
When done, pour the whole on the bottom of a 
sieve, and with a fork lay the pieces into potting 
pots, some of each sort with the seasoning about 
it. When cold, pour clarified butter over, but not 
hot. It will be good next day ; or highly sea- 
soned, and thick covered with butter, will keep 
some time. 

The potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fri- 
cassee, with a cream sauce, when it looks very 
nicely, and eats excellently, especially if there be 
spawn. 

Mackerel, herrings, and trout, are good potted as 
above. 



FISH. 7 

Stewed Lobster, as a very high Relish. 

Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that 
lias a lamp, and rub them down with a bit of but- 
ter, two spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, one of soy 
or walnut catsup, a little salt and Cayenne, and a 
spoonful of port. Stew the lobster cut in bits with 
the gravy as above. It must be dressed at table, 
and eaten immediately. 

Lobster Pie. 

Boil two lobsters, or three small ; take out the 
tails, cut them in two, take out the gut, cut each in 
four pieces and lay them in a small dish. Put in 
then the meat of the claws, and that you have 
picked out of the body ; pick off the furry parts from 
the latter, and take out the lady ; then take the 
spawn, beat it in a mortar, likewise all the shells. 
Set them on to stew with some water, two or three 
spoonfuls of vinegar, pt pper. salt, and some pounded 
mace. A large piece of butter, rolled in flour, must 
be added when the goodness of the shells is ob- 
tained. Give a boil or two and pour into the dish 
strained : strew some crumbs over, and put a paste 
over all. Bake slowly, but only till the paste be done. 
Curry cf Lobsters or Prawns. 

When taken out of the shells, simmer them as 
above. 

Buttered Lobsters. 

Pick the meat out ; cut it and warm with a little 
weak brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and but- 
ter, with a little flour. If done white, a little white 
gravy and cream. 



8 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Hot Crab. 

Pick the meat out of a crab, clear the shell from 
the head, ihen put the former, with a very small bit 
of nutmeg, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, crumbs of 
bread, and three spoonfuls of vinegar, into the shell 
again, and set it before the fire. You may brown 
it with a salamander. 

Dry toast should be served to eat it upon. 
To dress Red Herrings. 

Choose those that are large and moist ; cut them 
open, and pour some boiling small beer over them, 
to soak half an hour. Drain them dry, and make 
them just hot through before the fire ; then rub 
some cold butter over them and serve. Egg sauce, 
or buttered eggs and mashed potatoes, should be 
served with them. 

Baked Herrings or Sfirats. 

Wash and drain without wiping them. Season 
with Jamaica pepper in fine powder, salt, a whole 
clove or two : lay them in a pan with plenty of 
black pepper, an onion, and a few bayleaves. Put 
half vinegar and half small beer, enough to cover 
them. Put paper over the pan, and bake in a slow 
oven. If you like, throw saltpetre over them the 
night before, to make them look red. Gut, but 
do not open them. 

To smoke Herrings. 

Clean and lay them in salt, and a Utile saltpetre 
one night ; then hang; them on a stick, through 
the eyes, on a row. Have ready an old cask, on 
which put some sawdust, and in the midst of it a 



FISH. 

heater red hot ; over the smoke fix the stick, and 
let them remain twenty four hours. 
Juried Herrings. 
Serve them of a light brown, and onions sliced 
and fried. 

Broiled Herrings. 
Floured first, and done of a good colour, Plain 
butter for sauce. They are very good potted like 

mackerel. 

Soals. 

If boiled, they must be served with great care to 
look perfectly white, and should be much covered 
with parsley. 

If fried, dip them in eg^ and cover them with 
fine crumbs of bread. Set on a fryingpan that is 
just large enough, and put into it a large quantity 
of fresh lard or dripping ; boil it, and immedi- 
ately slip the fish into it. Do them of a fine 
brown. When enough, take them out carefully, 
and lay them upon a dish turned under side up- 
permost, and placed slantingly before the fire to 
drain off the fat. If you wish them to be particu- 
larly nice, lay them on clean cap paper, and let lie 
some minutes. 

Observe, that fish never looks well if not fried in 
plenty of fat, and that boiling hot, before it be put 
into it. The dripping may serve again with a little 
fresh. Take care the fat does not become black. 
Butter makes every thing black that is fried in it. 
The soals should just fit the inside of the dish, and 
a fringe of curled parsley garnish the edge com- 
pletely, which looks beautifully. 



10 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Soals that have been fried, eat good cold with 
oil, vinegar, salt, and mustard. Note. Fine oil 
gives the finest colour, but is expensive. 
Slewed Soals, and Carfi y 

Are to be done like lampreys. 

Soals, in the Portuguese way. 

Take one large or two lesser ; if the former, cut 
the fish in two; if they are small, they need only 
be split. The bones being taken out, put the fish 
into a pan, with a bit of butter and some lemon- 
juice : give it a fry ; then lay the fish on a dish, 
and spread a forcemeat over each piece, and roll it 
round, fastening the roll with a few small skewers. 
Lay the rolls into a small earthen pan ; beat an 
egg and wet them, then strew crumbs over, 
and put the remainder of the egg, with a little 
meat gravy, a spoonful of caper liquor, an an- 
chovy chopped fine, and some parsley chopped, 
into the bottom of the pin ; cover it close, and 
bake, until the fish be done enough, in a slow 
oven. Then place the rolls in the dish for serving ; 
cover it to keep it hot until the gravy baked be 
skimmed: if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured 
as above, must be prepared and added to it. 
The stuffing to be made as on the following page. 
Stuffing for Seals baked. 

Pound cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little, then 
add some fat bacon, that has been lightly fried, cut 
small, and some onions, a little garlick or shalot, 
some parsley, anchovy, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. 
Pound all fine with a few crumbs, and bind it with 
two or three yelks of eggs. 



fish. n 

The heads of the fish are to be left on one side 
of the split part, and kept on the outer side of the 
roll ; and when served, the heads are to be turned 
towards each other in the dish. 

Garnish with fried or dried parsley. 
Soal, Cody or Turbot Pie : another sort of stuffing. 

Boil two pounds of eels tender ; pick all the 
flesh clean from the bones ; throw the latter into 
the liquor the eels were boiled in, with a little mace, 
salt and parsley, and boil till very good, and come 
to a quarter of a pint, and strain it. In the mean 
time cut the flesh of the eels fine, likewise some 
lemonpeel, parsley, and an anchovy : put to them 
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and some crumbs. Melt 
four ounces of butter and mix, then lay it in a dish, 
at the bottom : cut the flesh of two or three soals 
clean from the bones, and fins ; lay it on the force- 
meat, and pour the eelbroth in. The bones of the 
soals should be boiled with those of the eels. You 
may boil them with one or two little eels, and pour 
it, well seasoned, on the fish, an<j put no force- 
meat. 

An excellent way of dressing a large Plaice^ es/ie* 
daily if there be a roe. 

Sprinkle it with salt, and keep it twenty four 
hours, then wash and wipe it dry: wet it over with 
eggs ; cover with crumbs of bread ; make some 
lard or fine dripping, and two large spoonfuls of 
vinegar boiling hot, lay the fish in, and fry it a fin« 
colour. Drain it from the fat, and serve with fried 
s 



12 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

parsley round, and anchovy sauce. You may dip 
the fish in vinegar, and not put it in the pan. 
To fry Smelts. 

They should not be washed more than necessa- 
ry to clean. Dry in a cloth, then lightly flour, but 
shake it off. Dip them in plenty of egg, then in- 
to bread crumbs grated fine, and plunge them into 
a good pan of boiling lard. Let them continue 
gently boiling, and a few minutes will make them 
a bright yellow brown. Take care not to take off 
the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty 
will be lost. 

Boiled Car/2. 

Serve in a napkin, and with the sauce directed 
for it among sauces. 

Cod's head and shoulders. 

Will eat much finer, by having a little salt rub- 
bed down the bone, and along the thick part, even 
if to be eaten the same day. ' 

Tie it up, and put on the fire in cold water which 
will completely cover it : throw a handful of salt 
in it. Great care must be taken to serve it with- 
out the smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish 
"with a large quantity of double parsley, lemon, 
horseradish, and the milt, roe, and liver, and smelts 
fried, if approved. If the latter, be cautious that 
no water hang about the fish, or the beauty of the 
smelts will be taken off, as well as their flavour. 

Serve with plenty of oyster or shrimp sauce, and 
anchovy, and butter, 



Fish. 13 

Some people boil the cod whole ; but there is 
no fish, that is more proper lo help, than in a large 
head and shoulders, the thinner parts being over- 
done and tasteless before the thick be ready : but 
the whole fish may be purchased, at times, more 
reasonably, and the lower half, if sprinkled the 
least, and hung up, will be in high perfection one 
or two days : or it may be made salter, and served 
with egg sauce, potatoes, and parsnips, 
Crimfi Cod. 

Boil, broil, or fry. 

Cod sounds boiled. 

Soak them in warm water till soft, then scrape 
and clean ; and if to be dressed white, boil them 
in milk and water, and when tender serve them in 
a napkin. Egg sauce. 

Cod sounds ragout. 

Prepare as above, then stew them in white gra- 
vy seasoned ; cream, butter, and a little bit of flour 
added before you serve, gently boiling up. A bit 
of lemonpeel, nutmeg, and the least pounded mace, 
should give the flavour. 

Curry of Cod, 

Should be made of sliced cod that has either 
been crimped, or sprinkled a day to make it firm. 
Fry it of a fine brown, with onions, and stew it with 
a good white gravy, a little curry powder, a bit of 
butter and flour, three or four spoonfuls of rich 
cream, salt and Cayenne. 



14 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Fish Pie. 

Cod or Haddock, sprinkled with salt to give firm- 
ness, slice and season with pepper and salt, and 
place in a dish mixed with oysters. Put the oyster 
liquor, a little broth, and a bit of flour and butter, 
boiled together, into the dish cold. Put a paste 
over ; and when it comes from the oven, pour in 
some warm cream. If you please you may put 
parsley instead of oysters. 

> Haddock. 

Do the same as cod, and serve with the same 
sauce ; or, stuff with forcemeat as page eleventh. 
Or broil them with stuffing. 

Oysters to stew. 

Open them and separate the liquor from them, 
then wash them from the grit : strain the liquor, 
and put with the oysters a bit of mace and lemon- 
peel, and a few white peppers. Simmer them ve- 
ry gently, and put some cream, and a little flour 
and butter. 

Serve with sippets. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, 
nutmeg, and a bit of butter, in scallop shells or 
saucers, and bake them before the fire, in a Dutch 
oven. 

Oyster Patties or small Pie. 

As you open the oysters, separate them from the 
liquor, which strain j parboil them, after taking off 



FISH. 15 

the beards. Parboil sweetbreads, and cutting them 
in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers : season 
very lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Then 
put half a teacup of liquor, and the same of gravy. 
Bake in a slow oven ; and before you serve, put a 
teacup of cream, a little more oyster liquor and a 
cup of white gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. If 
for patties, the oysters should be cut in small dice, 
gently stewed, and seasoned as above, and put into 
the paste when ready for table. 

Fried Oysters, to garnish boiled fish. 

Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs ; season it 
a very little ; dip the oysters in it, and fry them a 
fine yellow brown. A little nutmeg should be put 
into the seasoning, and a few crumbs of bread into 
the flour. 

To fiickle Oysters. 

Wash four dozen of oysters in their own liquor ; 
then strain, and in it simmer them till scalded 
enough : take them out and cover them. To the 
liquor put a few peppercorns, a blade of mace, a 
table spoonful of salt, three of white wine, and four 
of vinegar : simmer fifteen minutes ; and when 
cold, pour it on the oysters, and keep them in ajar 
close covered. 

Another way. 

Open the number you intend to pickle : put 
them into a saucepan, with their own liquor, for ten 
minutes; simmer them very gently; then put them 
into a jar, one by one, that none of the grit may 
>tick to them, and cover then)} when cold, with the 
-d 2 



16 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

pickle thus made. Boil the liquor with a bit of 
mace, lemon peel, and black peppers ; and to every 
hundred, put two spoonfuls of the best undistilled 
vinegar. 

They should be kept in small jars, and tied close 
with bladder, for the air will spoil them. 
Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, &c. 

Of fat bacon, beefsuet, and fresh butter, equal 
parts ; some parsley, thyme, and savory ; a little 
onion, and a few leaves of scented mar jorum, shred 
finely ; an anchovy or two ; a little salt and nut- 
meg, and some pepper. 

If you have oysters, three or four may be used 
instead of anchovies. Mix all with crumbs of 
bread, and two yelks and whites of eggs, well beat- 
en, and parsley shred fine. 
S/irats f 

When cleaned, should be fastened in rows by a 
skewer, run through the heads, and then broiled 
and served hot and hot. 

Sprats baked, as herrings, page 8. 

— — fried, as do. page 9. 

To dress fresh Sturgeon. 

Cut slices, rub egg over, then sprinkle with 
crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper, salt, and fold in 
paper, and broil gently. 

Sauce ; butter, anchovy, and soy. 
Thornback) or Skate, 

Should be hung one day at least, before it be 
dressed, and may be served either boiled ? or fried 
in crumbs, being first dipped in egg. 



FISH. 17 

C.imp, Skate. 
Boiled, and sent up in a napkin ; or fried as 
above. 

Maids, 

Should be likewise hung one day at least. May 

be boiled or fried ; or if of a tolerable size, the 

middle may be boiled and the fins fried. They 

should be dipped in egg, and covered with crumbs. 



OBSERVATIONS ON DRESSING FISH. 

If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is sel- 
dom very nicely done ; but those in great towns 
wash it beyond what is necessary for cleaning, and 
by perpetual watering diminish the flavor. When 
quite clean, if to be boiled, some salt and a little 
vinegar should be put to the water to give firmness; 
but cod, whiting and haddock, are far better if a little 
salted, and kept a day ; and if not very hot weather 
they will be good in two days. 

Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by 
taking more at a time than they want for one day, 
often get it cheap, and that which will hang by 
sprinkling, may then be bought to advantage. 

The fish must be put into the watd' while cold, 
and set to do very gently, or the outside will break 
before the inner part be done. 

The fishplate on which it is done, may be drawn, 
up to see if it be ready ; it will leave the bone 



18 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

when it is. It should be then immediately taken 
out of the water, or it will be woolly. The fish- 
plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to 
keep hot for serving, and a cltan cloth should cov- 
er the fish to prevent its losing its colour. 

Small fish, nicely fried in tgg^ and crumbs, make 
a dish of fish far more elegant than served plain. 
Great attention should be paid to garnishing fish ; 
plenty of horseradish, paisley, and lemon. 

When well done, and with very good sauce, fish 
is more attended to than almost any other dish. 
The liver and roe should be placed on the dish, so 
conspicuously that the lady may see them, and help 
a part to every one. The sound of the cod, its 
head, and the head of carp are reckoned the prime 
parts ; and it is a part of necessary attention to 
help, or at least offer some of the best to one's 
friends ; nor is it any excuse for the mistress's 
negligence, that it is the fashion of the present day 
for those who sit at her right or left hand to help 
the company, which she must see they do properly. 

If salmon is to be dressed, great care is neces- 
sary that it be done enough. No vinegar should 
be boiled with it. 

If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapt 
in a nice soft cloth, after it is well cleaned and 
washed. When perfectly dry, wet with an egg, if 
the former way, and sprinkle the finest crumbs of 
bread over it ; then having a thick bottomed frying- 
pan on the fire, with a large quai tity of lard or 
dripping boiling hot, plunge the fish into it, and let 



FISH. 19 

it fry middlingly quick, till the colour be a fine 
brown yellow, and it be judged ready : if the lat- 
ter take place first, the cook should draw the pan 
to the side of the fire, lest the colour be spoiled. 
She should then carefully take it up, and either 
place it on a large sieve turned upwards, and to be 
kept for that purpose only, or on the underside of 
a dish, to drain ; and if wanted very nice, a sheet 
of cap paper must be put to receive the fish, which 
should look a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs 
appear distinct ; the fish being free from all grease. 

Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or 
parsley fried, which must be thus done : when 
washed and picked, throw it again into clean water ; 
when the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley 
into it immediately from the water, and instantly 
it will be green, and crisp, and must be taken up 
with a slice. This may be done after the fish is 
fried. 

If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned and 
floured, and put on a gridiron that is very clean ; 
and when hot, it should be rubbed with a bit of 
suet to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be 
broiled on a very clear fire, that it may not taste 
of smoke ; and not too near, that it may not be 
scorched. 

An excellent imitation of Sturgeon. 
Take a fine large, but not an old turkey ; pick it 
most nicely ; singe it, and make it ?< ry clean ; 
bone, wash, and dry it ; tie it across and across, 



20 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

with a bit of matstring, washed clean, as they tie 
sturgeon. Put into a very nice tin saucepan a 
quart of water, the same of vinegar, and of white- 
wine, that is not sweet, and a very large handful of 
of salt. Let boil, and skim well, then put in the 
turkey : when done, take it out and tighten the 
strings. Let the liquor boil half an hour after, 
and when cold put it on the turkey. If salt or 
vinegar be wanting, add when cold. This will 
keep some months. You eat it with oil and vine- 
gar, or sugar and vinegar. It is more delicate 
than sturgeon, and makes a pretty variety, if the 
real is not to be had. Cover it with fennel when 
brought to table. 



ON DRESSING MEATS. 

Wash all meats before you dress ; if for boiling, 
the colour will be better for soaking ; if for roast- 
ing, dry it. 
Boiling in a well floured cloth, will make meat 
white. 

Particular charge must be given that the pot be 
well skimmed the moment it boils, otherwise the 
foulness will be dispersed over the meat. The 
more soups or broths are skimmed, the better and 
cleaner they will be. 

The boiler and utensils should be kept delicately 
clean. 



MEATS. 21 

Put the meat in cold water, and flour it well 
first. If meat be boiled quick it will be hard ; but 
care must be taken that in boiling slow it does not 
cease, or the meat will be underdone. 

If the steam be kept in, the water will not much 
decrease ; therefore when you wish to evaporate, 
remove the cover of the souppot. 

Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, 
except carrots or parsnips with boiled beef. 

Weigh the joint, and allow a quarter of an hour 
to each pound, and about twenty minutes over. If 
for roasting, it should be put at a good distance 
from the fire, and brought gradually nearer when 
the inner part becomes hot, which will prevent its 
being scorched while yet raw. Meat should be 
much basted, and when nearly done, floured to 
make it look frothed. 

Veal and mutton should have a little paper put 
over the fat to preserve it. If not fat enough to 
allow for basting, a little good dripping answers as 
well as butter. 

The cook should be careful to spit meat so as 
not to run the spit through the best parts ; and she 
should observe that her spit be well cleaned beforej 
and when she is going to serve, or a black stain 
appears on the meat. In many joints the spit will 
pass into the bones, and run along them for some 
distance, so as not to injure the prime of the meat ; 
and she should have leaden skewers to enable her 
to balance it ; for want of which, ignorant servants 
often are foiled in the time of serving. 

In roasting meat, it is a very good way to put a 
little salt and water into the dripping pan, and baste 



22 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

for a little while with it before it be done with its 
own fat or dripping. When dry, dust it with flour, 
and baste as usual. 

Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire, of 
a proper size for what is required, are the first ar- 
ticles of a good cook's attention in roasting. 

Old meats do not require so much dressing as 
young : not that they are sooner done, but they can 
be eaten with the gravy more in. 

Be careful in roasting wild fowls to keep a clear 
brisk fire. Roast them of a light brown, but not 
till their gravy runs ; they loose their fine flavour if 
too much done. Tame fowls require more roast- 
ing : they are a long time before they are hot 
through, and must be often basted to keep up a 
froth, and it makes the colour better. Pigs and 
geese require a brisk fire, and to be turned quick. 

Hares and rabbits require time, and care to turn 
the two ends to the fire, which are less likely to be 
done enough than the middle part. 

Choose mutton by the fineness of its grain, the 
deep red of the flesh, and bright whiteness of the^ 
fat. For roasting, it should hang as long as it will 
keep, the hind quarter especially, but not so as to 
taint ; for, whatever fashion may authorize, putrid 
juices ought not to be conveyed into the stomach. 

Mutton, for boiling, will not look of a good colour 
if it has long hung. Small mutton is preferred. 

Great care should be taken to preserve by paper 
the fat of what is roasted. 



MEATS. 23 

To kee/i Venison. 

Preserve the venison dry ; wash it with milk and 
water very clean ; dry it with clean cloths, till not 
the least damp remain. Then dust pounded gin- 
ger over every part, which is a good preventive 
against the fly. By thus managing and watching, 
it will hang a fortnight. When to be used, wash 
it with a little lukewarm water, and dry it. 
Vtnison. 

A haunch of buck will take about three hours and 
three quarters roasting ; doe, three hours and a 
quarter. Put a coarse paste of brown flour and 
water, and a paper over that, to cover all the fat : 
baste it well with dripping, and keep it at a distance 
to get hot at the bone by degrees. When nearly 
done, remove the covering, and baste it with but- 
ter, and froth it up before you serve. 

Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not 
in the dish (unless there be none in the venison), 
and made thus : cut off the fat from two or three 
pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks 
on a gridiron for a few minutes, ]vxt to brown one 
side : put them in a saucepan, with a quart of 
water : cover quite close for an hour, and gently 
simmer it ; then uncover, and stew till the gravy 
be reduced to a point. Season with only salt. 

Currantjelly sauce must be served in a boat. 

Formerly pap sauce was eaten with venison, 
which, as some still like it, may be necessary to 
direct. Grate white bread, and boil it with port and 
water, a large stick of cinnamon ; and when quite 

E 



24 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

smooth, remove the latter, and add sugar. Claret 
wine may be used for it. 

Make the jelly sauce thus. Beat some currant- 
jelly, and a spoonful or two of port, then set it over 
the fire till melted. Where jelly runs short, put 
more wine, and a few lumps of sugar to the jelly, 
and melt as above. 

To make a Pasty of Beef or Mutton, to eat as well 
as Venison. 

Bone a small rump, or a piece of sirloin of beef, 
or a fat loin of mutton : the former is better xhan 
mutton, after hanging several days, if the weather 
permits. Beat it very well with a rolling pin, then 
rub ten pounds of meat with four ounces of sugar, 
and pour over it a glass of port wine, and the same of 
vinegar. Let it lie five days and nights : wash and 
wipe the meat very dry, and season k very 
high with pepper, Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and 
salt. Lay in your dish, and to ten pounds put one 
pound or near of butter, spreading it over the meat. 
Put a crust round the edges, and cover with a 
thick one, or it will be overdone before the meat be 
soaked. It must be done in a slow oven. 

Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more 
water than will coyer them, and one glass of port 
wine, a little pepper and salt, that you may have a 
little rich gravy to add to the pasty when drawn. 

Note. Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better 
flavor to meats than salt, too great a quantity of 
which hardens j and it is quite as great a preser- 
vative. 



MEATS. 25 

Haunch, Neck and Shoulders of Venison. 

Roast with paste, as directed above, and the same 
sauce. 

Stewed Shoulder. 

Let the meat hang till you judge proper to dress 
it, then take out the bone : beat the meat with a 
rolling pin. Lay some slices of mutton fat, that 
has lain a few hours in a little port wine, among 
it : sprinkle a little black and Jamaica pepper over 
it, in finest powder : roll it up tight, and fillet it. 
Set it in a stewpan that will only just hold it, with 
some mutton or beef gravy, not strong, half a pint 
of port, and some pepper and pimento. Simmer, 
close covered, and as slow as you can, for three or 
four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, 
set the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over. 
Serve with currantjelly sauce. 

This is the best way to dress this joint, unless it 
be very fat, and then it should be roasted. The 
bone should be stewed with it. 

To firefiare Venison fir Pasty. 

Take the bones out, then season and beat the 
meat. Lay it in a stone jar in large pieces : pour 
upon it some plain drawn beef gravy, but not a 
strong one : lay the bones on top, then set the jar 
in a waterbath, that is, a saucepan of water over the 
fire ; simmer three or four hours ; then leave it 
in a cold place till next day. Remove the cake of 
fat, and lay the meat in handsome pieces on the 
dish : if not sufficiently seasoned, add more pepper, 
salt, or pimento, as necessary. Put some of the 



26 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

gravy, and keep the remainder for the time of 
serving. If the venison be thus prepared, it will 
not require so much time to bake, or such a very 
thkk crust as is usual, and by which the under part 
is seldom done through. 

Venison Pasty. 

A shoulder, boned, makes a good pasty ; but it 
must be beaten and seasoned, and the want of fat 
supplied by that of a fine wellhung loin of mutton, 
steeped twenty four hours in equal parts of rape, 
vinegar, and port. 

The shoulder being sinewy, it will be of advant- 
age to rub it well with sugar for two or three days ; 
and when to be used, wipe it perfectly clean from it, 
and the wine. 

A mistake used to prevail, that venison could 
not be baked enough ; but, as above directed, three 
or four hours in a slow oven will be sufficient to 
make it tender, and the flavor will be preserved. 
Either in shoulder or side, the meat must be cut 
in pieces, and laid with fat between, that it may be 
proportioned to each person, without breaking up 
the pasty to find it. Lay some pepper and salt, at 
the bottom of the dish, and some butter, then the 
meat nicely packed, that it may be sufficiently 
done, but not lie hollow to harden at the edges. 

The venison bones should be boiled with some 
fine old mutton. Of this gravy put half a pint cold 
into the dish, then lay butter on the venison, and 
cover, as well as line the sides with a thick crust ; 



MEATS. 27 

but do not put one under the meat. Keep the re- 
mainder of the gravy till the pasty comes from the 
oven ; put it into the middle by a funnel, quite hot, 
and shake the dish to mix well. It should be sea- 
soned with pepper and salt. 

An imitation of Venison Pasty. 

Choose a large wellfed loin of mutton ; hang it 
ten days, then bone it, leaving the meat as whole 
as possible. Cover it with brown sugar a day and 
night ; then lay it in a pickle of half a pint of port 
wine, and half a pint of rape or common vinegar, 
twenty four hours more : then shake it well in it to 
take off the sugar, but do not wash, only wipe it. 
Season as above, and bake ; making a gravy of the 
bones. 

Crust for the pasty, see under the article of 
crusts. 

Hashed Venhcn, 

Should be warmed with its own, or gravy with- 
out seasoning, as before, and only warmed through, 
not boiled. If there be no fat left, cut some slices 
of mutton fat, set on the fire, with a little port wine 
and sugar: simmer till dry; then add it to the hash, 
and it will eat as well as that of the venison. 

Beef or Pork., to be salted Jor eating immediately. 
The piece should- not weigh more than five or 
six pounds. Salt it very thoroughly just before you 
put it in the pot. Take a coarse cloth, flour it 
well, put the meat in and fold it up close. Put it 
into a pot of boiling water, and boil it as long as you 
would any salt beef of the same size, and it will be 
as salt as if done four or five days. 
e 2 



28 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Beef Mamode. 

Choose a piece of thick flank of a fine heifer or 
ox. Cut into long slices some fat bacon, but quite 
free from yellow. Let each bit be near an inch 
thick, and dip them in vinegar, and then in a sea- 
soning ready prepared of salt, black and Jamaica 
peppers, and a clove in finest powder, with parsley, 
chives, thyme, savory and knotted marjorum, shred 
as small as possible, and well mixed. With a sharp 
knife make holes deep enough to let in the larding ; 
then rub the beef over with the seasoning, and 
bind it up tight with tape. Set it in a well tinned 
pot over a fire or rather stove. Three or four 
onions must be fried brown and put to the beef, 
with two or three carrots, one turnip, and a head 
or two of celery, and a small quantity of water. 
Let it simmer gently" ten or twelve hours, or till 
extremely tender, turning the meat twice. 

Put the gravy in a pan, remove the fat, keep the 
beef covered, then put them together, and add a 
glass of port wine. Remove the tape, and serve 
with the vegetables : or you may strain them 
off, and send up fresh, cut in dice for garnish. 
Onions roasted, and then stewed with the gravy, 
are a great improvement. A teacup full of vinegar 
should be stewed with the beef. 

Steived rump, of Beef. 

Wash it well : season it high with pepper, Cay- 
enne, salt, Jamaica pepper, three cloves, a blade of 
mace, all in finest powder. Bind it up tight, and 
lay it in a pot that will just hold it. Fry three large 



MEATS. £9 

onions, sliced, and put to it, with three carrots, two 
turnips, a shalot, four cloves, a blade of mace, and 
some celery. Cover the meat with good beef broth, 
or weak gravy. Simmer as gently as possible for 
several hours, till quite tender. Clear off the fat, 
and add to the gravy half a pint of port wine, a 
glass of vinegar, and a large spoonful of catsup ; 
simmer half an hour, and serve in a deep dish. 

Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles, and 
morels, or pickles of different colours cut small, 
and laid in little heaps separate, chopped parsley, 
chives, beetroot, he. If when done the gravy be 
too much to fill the dish, take only a part to season 
for serving : the less water the better ; and to in- 
crease the richness, add a few beef bones and shanks 
of mutton in stewing. 

A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great 
improvement to the gravy. 

Rump roasted is excellent ; but in the country 
is generally sold whole with the edgebone, or cut 
across instead of lengthways, as in London, when 
there is one piece for boiling, and the rump for 
stewing or roasting. 

Stewed Brisket. 

Put the part that has tlte hard fat into a stew 
pot, with a small quantity of water ; let it boil up, 
and skim it thoroughly; then add carrots, turnips, 
onions, celery, and a few peppercorns. Stew 
till extremely tender ; then take out the flat bones, 
and remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve 
that and the meat in a tureen, or the former alone, 



30 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

and the meat on a dish, garnished with some of the 
vegetables. The following sauce is much admired, 
served with the beef. Take half a pint of the soup* 
and mix with a spoonful of catsup, a glass of port 
wine, a teaspoonful of made mustard, a little flour, 
a bit of butter, and salt : boil all together a few 
minutes, then pour it round the meat. Chop caper*, 
walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, and 
chives or parsley, small, and put in separate heaps 
over it. 

To salt Beef red) which is extremely good to eat fresh 
from the pickle, or to hang to dry. 

Choose a piece of beef with as little bone as you 
can, the flank is most proper : sprinkle it, and let it 
drain a day ; then rub it with common salt, salt- 
petre, and bay salt, but of the second a small pro- 
portion ; and you may add a few grains of cochi- 
neal, all in fine powder. Rub the pickle every day 
into the meat for a week, then only turn it. 

It will be excellent in eight days. In sixteen, 
drain it from the pickle, and let it be smoked at 
the oven mouth, where heated with wood, or send 
to the baker*s. A few days will smoke it. 

A little of the coarsest sugar may be added to 
the salt. 

It eats well boiled tender with greens or carrots. 
If to be grated as Dutch, then cut a lean bit : boil 
it till extremely tender ; and while hot put it under 
a press. When cold, fold it in a sheet of paper, 
and it will keep in a dry place two pr three 
months. 



MEATS. 31 

Pressed Beef. 
Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the 
tops of the ribs, with salt and saltpetre, five days ; 
then boil it gently till extremely tender. Put it 
under a great weight, or in a cheesepress, till per- 
fectly cold. 
' It eats excellently cold, and for Sandwiches. 
Hunter's Beef. 

To a round of beef that weighs twenty five 
pounds, take three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces 
of coarsest sugar, an ounce of cloves, one nutmeg, 
half an ounce of pimento, and three handfuls of 
common salt, all in the finest powder. 

The beef should hang two or three days, then 
rub the above well into it. Turn and rub it daily 
for two or three weeks. The bone must be re- 
moved at first. When to be dressed, dip it in cold 
water to take off the loose spice : bind it up tight 
with tape : put it into a pan, and a teacup of water 
at bottom : put over the pan a bro\ui crust and 
paper, and bake it five or six hours. When cold, 
remove the paste and fillet. 

The gravy is very fine, and a little of it adds 
greatly to the flavor of any hash, soup, &c. 

Both gravy and beef will keep some time. The 
latter should be cut with a very sharp knife, and 
quite smooth, to prevent waste. 
Collared Beef. 

Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow 
beef, but not too fat. Lay it in a dish with salt, and 
saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for a week, 



32 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

and keep it cool. Then take out every bone and 
gristle ; remove the skin of the inside part, and 
cover it thick with the following seasoning cut 
small : a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, 
some thyme, marjorum, pennyroyal, pepper, salt 
and pimento. Roll the meat up as tight as possi- 
ble, and bind it ; then boil it gently for seven or 
eight hours. A cloth must be put round before 
the taoe. Put the beef under a good weight while 
hot, without undoing it ; the shape will then be 
oval. Part of a breast of veal, rolled in with the 
beef, looks and eats very well. 

Bfcfsieak and Oyster Sauce. 
Strain off the liquor from the ojsters, and throw 
them in cold water to take off the grit, while you 
simmer the former with a bit of mace and lemon- 
peel ; then put the oysters in, stew them a few 
minutes, and add a little cream if you have it, and 
some butter, rubbed in a bit of flour ; let them boil 
up once, and have rump stakes, well seasoned and 
broiled, ready for throwing the oyster sauce over 
the moment you are to serve. 

Staffordshire Beefsteaks. 
Beat them a little with a rolling pin : flour and 
season them ; then fry with sliced onion to a fine 
light brown. Lay the steaks in a stewpan, and pour 
as much boiling water over as will serve for sauce: 
stew them very gently half an hour, and add a 
spoonful of catsup or walnut liquor before you 
serve. 



MEATS. S3 

Italian Beefsteaks. 

Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been 
well hung ; or it will do from any tender part. Beat 
it, and season with pepper, salt and onion. Lay it in 
an iron stewpan, ihat has a cover to fit quite close ; 
set it at the side of a fire, without water. Take care 
it does not burn, but it must have a strong heat. 
In two or three hours it will be quite tender, then 
serve with its own gravy. 

Beef Collofi. 

Cut thin slices of beef from the rump or other 
tender parts, and divide them in pieces three inches 
long : beat with the blade of a knife, and flour 
thern. Fry the collops quick in butter two min- 
utes ; then lay them in a small stewpan, and cov- 
er with a pint of gravy : add a bit of butter rubbed 
in flour, pepper, salt, the least bit of shalot shred 
as fine as possible, half a walnut, four small pick- 
led cucumbers, and a teaspoonful of capers cut 
small. Observe it does not boil ; and serve the 
stew in a verp hot covered dish. 

Beefsteak Pudding. 

Prepare some fine steaks as above : roll them 
with fat between, and if you approve shred onion, 
add a very little. Lay a paste of suet in a bason, 
and put in the rollers of steaks : cover the bason 
with a paste, and pinch the edges to keep the gravy 
in. Cover with a cloth lied close, and let the pud- 
ding boil slowly, but for a length of time. 



34 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Beefsteak Pie. 

Prepare the steaks as above, and when seasoned 
and rolled with fat in each, put them in a dish, with 
puff paste round the edges. Put a little water in 
the dish, and cover it with a good crust. 
Baked Beefsteak Pudding. 

Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour, or 
which is much better, potatoes boiled and mashed 
through a colander. Lay a little of it at the bottom 
of the dish, then put in the steaks prepared as 
above, and very well seasoned ; pour the remaind- 
er of the batter over them, and bake it. 
Podovies, or Beef Patties. 

Shred raredone dressed l*feef, with a little fat : 
season with pepper, salt, and a little shalot or onion- 
Make a plain paste, roll it thin, and cut it in shape 
like an apple puff ; fill it with the mince, pinch the 
edges, and fry them of a nice brown. The paste 
should be made with a small quantity of butter, 
egg, and milk. 

Beef Palates. 

Simmer them in water several hours, till they 
will peel ; then cut the palates in slices, or leave 
them whole, as you choose, and stew them in a 
rich gravy till as tender as possible. Before you 
serve, season with Cayenne, salt, and catsup. If 
the?gravy was drawn clear, add to the above some 
butter and flour. 

Beef Cakes for side dish of dressed meat. 

Pound some beef that is raredone, with a little 
fat bacon or ham. Season with pepper, salt, and a 



MEATS. 35 

little shalot or garlic : mix them well, and make 
into small cakes three inches long, and half as wide 
and thick : fry them a light brown, and serve them 
in a good thick gravy. 

Potted Beef. 

Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with salt- 
petre, and let it lie one night ; then salt with com- 
mon salt, and cover it with water four days in a 
small pan. Dry it with a cloth, and season with 
pepper : lay it into as small a pan as will hold it ; 
cover it with coarse paste, and bake it five hours in 
a very cool oven. Put no liquor in. 

When cold, pick out the strings and fat ; beat 
the meat very fine f|ith a quarter of a pound of 
fine butter just warm, but not oiled, and as much 
of the gravy as will make it into a paste. Put it in- 
to very small pots, and cover them with melted 

butter. 

Another way. 

Take beef that has been dressed, either boiled 
or roasted : beat it in a mortar with some pepper, 
salt, a few cloves, grated nutmeg, a little fine but- 
ter just warm. 

This eats as well, but the colour is not so fine. 
Hessian Soufi u?id Ragout. 

Clean the root of a tongue very nicely, and half 
an ox head, with salt and water, and soak them af- 
terwards in plain water ; then stew them in five or 
six quarts of water till tolerably tender. Let the 
soup stand to be cold : take off the cake of fat, 
which will make good paste for hot meat pies, or 

F 



36 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

serve to baste. Put to the soup a pint of split peas 
or a quart of whole, twelve carrots, six turnips, six 
potatoes, six large onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
and two heads of celery. Simmer them without 
the meat, till the vegetables are done enough to 
pulp with the peas through a sieve, when the soup 
will be \bout the consistence of cream. Season it 
with pepper, salt, mace, pimento, a clove or two, 
and a little Cayenne, all in the finest powder. If 
the peas are bad, the soup m<:y not be thick 
enough ; then boil in it a slice of roll, and put 
through the colander ; or put a little rice flour, 
mixing it by degrees. 

The Ragout. 
Cut the nicest part of the head in small thick piec- 
es, the kernels, and part of the fat of the root of 
the tongue. Rub these with some of the same sea- 
soning, as you put them into a quart of the liquor, 
kept out for that purpose before the vegetables 
were added ; flour well, and simmer them till nice- 
ly tender. Then put a little mushroom and wal- 
nut catsup, a little soy, and a glass of port wine, a 
teaspoon ful of made mustard, and boil all up to- 
gether before served. 

If for company, small eggs and forcemeat balls. 

This mode furnishes an excellent soup, and a ra- 
gout at small expense, and they are uncommon. 
The other part will warm for the family. 
Slewed Oxchetk filain. 

Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before you 
would have it eaten. Put it into a stewpot that 



MEATS. 37 

will cover close, with three quarts of water : sim- 
mer it, after it has first boiled up and been veil 
skimmtd. In two hours put plenty of carrots, 
leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of sweet heibs, 
some w hole pepper, and four Jamaica's. Skim fre- 
quently. When the meat is tender, take it out : 
let the soup go cold : remove the cake of fat, and 
serve it separate or with the meat. 

It should be of a fine brown, which may be done 
by burnt sugar, or by frying some onions quite 
brown with flour, and simmering them with it. 
The hitter improves the flavour of all soups and 
gravies of the brown kind. 

If vegetables are not approved in the soup, they 
may be taken out, and a small roll bt toasted, or 
bread tried and added. Celery is a i>reat addition, 
and should be aiv\ays served. Where it is not to 
be r;ot, the seed gives an equally good flavour, 
boiled in, and strained off. 

To dress on Oxcheek ano f her ivay-. 

Soak half a head three hours, and clean it with 
plentv of water. Take the meat off the bones ; put 
it into a pan with a large onion, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, some bruised pimento, pepper, and salt. 

Lay the bones on the top: pour on two or three 
quarts of water: cover the pan close with brown 
paper, or a dish that will fit close. Let it stand 
eiirht or ten hours in a slow oven, or simmer it by 
the side of the fire, or on a hot hearth. When done 



38 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

tender, let it go cold, having moved the meat into 
a clean pan. Take the cake of fat off, and warm 
the head in pieces in the soup. Put what vegeta- 
bles you choose. 

Marrow Bones. 

Cover the top with floured cloth : boil, and serve 
with dry toast. 

To dresn the Inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef. 

Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, in pieces as 
thick as your finger, and two inches long. Dredge 
with flour, and fry in butter, of a nict brown. 
Drain the butter from the meat, and toss up in a 
rich gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, anchovy, 
and shalot. On no account let it boil. Before 
you serve, add two spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Garnish with crimped parsley. 

Fricassee of cold Roast Beef. 

Cut the beef into very thin slices: shred a 
handful of parsley very small : cut an onion in 
quarters, and put all together into a stewpan, with 
a piece of butter, and some strong broth. Season 
with salt and pepper, and simmer very gently a 
quarter of an hour ; then mix into it the yelks of 
two eggs, a glass of port wine, and a spoonful of 
vinegar : stir it quick, and, rubbing the dish with 
shalot, turn the fricassee into it. 
To dress Cold Beef that has not been done enough^ 
called Beef Olives. 

Cut slices half an inch thick, and four square : 
lay on them a forcemeat of crumbs of bread, shalot, 
a little suet or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll them, 



MEATS'. 39 

and fasten with a small skewer. Put them into a 
stewpan, with some gravy made of the beef bones, 
or the gravy of the meat, and a spoonful or two of 
water, and stew them till tender. Fresh meat 
will do. 

To dress ditto, called Sanders. 

Mince small beef or mutton, onion, pepper, and 
salt ; add a little gravy : put into scallopshells or 
saucers : make them three parts full ; then fill 
them up with potatoes, mashed with a little cream : 
put a bit of butter on the top, and brown them in 
an oven, or before the fire. 

To dress dittos called Cecils. 

Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a good 
deal of onion, some anchovies, lemonpeel, salt, nut- 
meg, chopped parsley, and pepper, and a bit of 
butter warm, and mix these over a fire for a few 
minutes. When cool enough, make them up into 
balls of the size and shape of a turkey's e^ y with 
an e^. Fry them, when sprinkled with fine 
crumbs, of a yellow brown, and serve with gravy 
as above. 

Minced Beef. 

Shred fine the underdone part, with some of the 
fat. Put into a small stewpan, some onion, or 
shalot, (a very little will do,) a little water, pepper, 
and salt : boil till the onion be quite soft ; then 
put some of the gravy of the meat to it, and the 
mince. Do not let it boil. Having a small hot 
dish, with sippets of bread ready, pour the mince 
into it ; but first mix a large spoonful of vinegar 
with it : or if shalot vinegar, there will be no need 
of the onion, or raw shalot. 
f 2 



40 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Hashed Beef. 

Do the same, only the meat is to be in slices ; 
and you may add a spoonful of walnut liquor or 
catsup. 

Observe, that it is owing to boiling hashes or 
minces, that they are hard. All sorts of stews, or 
meat dressed second hand, should only be sim- 
mered ; and the latter only hot th rough. 
To preserve Suet a twelvemonth. 

As soon as it comes in, choose the firmest part, 
and pick free from skin and veins. In a very nice 
saucepan, set it at some distance from the fire, 
that it may melt without frying, or it will taste. 

When melted, pour it into a pan of cold water. 
When in a hard cake, wipe it very dry : fold it in 
fine paper, and then in a linen bag, and keep in a 
dry, but not hot place. When used, scrape it fine ; 
and it will make a fine crust, either with or with- 
out butter. 

Round of Beef 

Should be carefully salted, and wet with the 
pickle for eight or ten days. The bone should be 
cut out first, and the beef skewered and filletted, to 
make it quite round. It may be stuffed with pars- 
ley, if approved ; in which case, the holes to admit 
it must be made with a sharp pointed knife, and 
the parsley coarsely cut and stuffed in tight. As 
soon as it boils, it should be skimmed, and after- 
wards kept boiling very gently. 

To roast Tongue and Udder. 

After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with com- 
mon salt and saltpetre three days ; then boil it, and 



MEATS. 41 

likewise a fine young udder, and some fat to it, till 
tolerably tender ; then tie the thick part of one to 
the thin part of the other, and roast the tongue and 
udder together. 

Serve them with a good gravy, and currentjelly 
sauce. A few cloves should be stuck in the udder. 

This is an excellent dish. 

To fiickle Tongues for boiling. 

Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and 
fat. Sprinkle some salt, and let it drain from the 
slime till next day :. then, for each tongue, mix a 
large spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse 
sugar, and about half as much of saltpetre ; rub it 
well in, and do so every day. In a week add anoth- 
er heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, 
a tongue will be ready in a fortnight ; but if only 
turned in the pickle daily, it will keep four or five 
weeks without being too salt. 

If you dry tongues, write the date on a parch- 
ment and tie on. Smoke them, or plainly dry 
them, if you like best. 

When to be dressed, boil it extremely tender : 
allow five hours ; and if done sooner, it is easily 
kept hot. The longer kept after drying, the high- 
er it will be : if hard, it may require soaking three 
or four hours. 

Another way. 

Clean as above. For two tongues, one ounce of 

saltpetre, and one ounce of sal prunella. Rub them 

well. In two days, having well rubbed them, 

cover them with common salt. Turn them daily 



42 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

for three weeks ; then dry, rub in bran, and paper 
or smoke them. In ten days they will be fit to eat 
if not dried. 

Beef Heart. 

Wash with care. Stuff as you do hare, and 
serve with rich gravy, ana currentjelly sauce. 

Hash with the same, and port wine. 
Trifle. 

Tripe may be served in a tureen. Stewed with 
mihY and onion till tender. Melted butter for 
sauce. 

Or, fried in small bits dipped in butter : or stew 
the thin part, cut in bits, in gravy, and thicken with 
flour and butter, and add a little catsup : or fric- 
casseed with white sauce. 

Bubble and Squeak. 

Boil, chop, and fry, with a little butter, pepper, 
and salt, some cabbage, and lay on it slices of rare- 
done beef, lightly fried. 

In both the following receipts, the roots must be 
taken off the tongue before salted. 
Stewed Tongue. 

Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for 
a week, turning it daily. Boil it tender enough to 
peei. When done, stew it in a moderately strong 
gravy. Season with soy, mushroom catsup, Cay- 
enne, pounded cloves, and salt if necessary. 

Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms. 

An excellent mode of doing T ngues to eat cold. 

Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown 
sugar, a little bay salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and 



MEATS. 43 

pimento, in finest powder, for fourteen days : then 
remove the pickle, put it in a small pan, and lay 
some butter on it ; cover with a brown crust, and 
bakeslowly till so tender that a straw would pierce it. 
The thin part of tongues, if hung up to become 
dry, grate as hung beef; and likewise make a fine 
addition to the flavour of omlets. 

Leg of Veal. 

Let the fillet be cut large or small, as best suits 
the number of your company. The bone being tak- 
en out, fill the space with a fine stuffing, and let it be 
skewered quite round, and send the large side up- 
permost. When half roasted, if not before, put a 
paper over the fat, and observe to allow a sufficient 
time, and to put it a good distance from the fire, the 
meat being very solid. You may pot some of it. 
Knuckle. 

As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be 
well to leave the knuckle small, and to take off 
some cutlets or collops, before it be dressed j but 
as the knuckle will keep longer than the fillet^ it is 
best not to cut off the slices till wanted. Break the 
bones to make it take less room ; and, washing it 
well, put it into a saucepan with three onions, a 
blade of mace or two, and a few peppercorns \ 
cover with water, and simmer it till thoroughly rea- 
dy. In the mean time some macaroni should be 
boiled with it, if approved ; or rice, or a little rice 
flour, to give it a small degree of thickness ; but 
do not put too much. Before it be served, add half 
a pint of milk and cream, and let it come up with 
or without the meat. 



44 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Or, fry the knuckle, with sliced onion and butter, 
to, a good brown, and have ready peas, lettuce, on- 
ion, a cucumber or two, stewed in a small quan- 
tity of water an hour, then add to the veal, and 
stew till the meat be tender enough to eat, not to 
be overdone. Throw in pepper, salt, and a bit of 
shred mint, and serve altogether. 
Cutlets Maintenon. 

Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick ; 
beat them with a rolling pin, and wet them on both 
sides with egg : dip them into a seasoning o Thread 
crumbs, parsley, thyme, knotted marjorum, pep- 
per, salt, and a little nutmeg grated ; then put 
them in papers folded over, and broil them ; and 
have ready in a boat, melted butter, with a little 
mushroom catsup. 

Cadets another way. 

Prepare as above, and fry them. Lay them in a 
dish, and keep them hot. Dredge a little flour, 
and put a bit of butter into the pan, brown it ; then 
pour a little boiling water into it, and boil quick. 
Season with pepper, salt, and catsup, and pour over 
them. 

Another way. 

Prepare as before, and dress the cutlets in a 
Dutch oven. Pour over them melted butter and 
mushrooms. Or, pepper, salt, and broil, especially 
neck steaks. They are excellent without herbs. 
Colio/is dressed quick. 

Cut them as thin as paper, with a very sharp 
knife, and in small bits. Throw the skin, and any 



MEATS. 45 

odd bits of the veal into a little water, with a dust 
of pepper and salt : set them on the fire while you 
beat the collops, and dip them in a seasoning of 
herbs, bread, pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, 
having first wetted them in egg ; then put a bit of 
butler into a frying pan, and give the collops a very 
quick fry ; for as they are so thin, two minutes will 
do them on both sides. Put them into a hot dish 
before the fire, then strain and thicken the gravy. 
Give a boil in the fryingpan, and pour over the 
collops. A little catsup is an improvement. 

Another nay. 

Fry them in butter, only seasoned with salt and 
pepper : then simmer them in gravy, white or 
brown, with bits of bacon served with them. 

If white, add lemonpeel and mace, and some 
cream. 

Veal Collo/is. 

Cut long thin collops : beat them well, and lay 
on them a bit of thin bacon the same size ; and 
spread forcemeat on that, seasoned high, with the 
addition of a little garlick, and Cayenne. Roll 
them up tight, about the size of two fingers, but 
not more than two or three inches long. Put a 
very small skewer to fasten each firm. Rub egg 
over them, and fry of a fine brown, and pour over 
them a rich brown gravy. 

Scollofis of cold Veal or Chicken. 

Mince the meat extremely small, and set it over 
the fire, with a scrape of nutmeg, a little pepper 
and salt, and a little cream, for a few minutes ; 



46 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

then put it into the scollopshells, and fill them with 
crumbs of bread ; over which put some bits of 
butter, and brown them before the fire. 

Veal or chicken, as above prepared, served in a 
dish, and lightly covered with crumbs of bread fried 
(or they- may be put on in little heaps), look and 
eat well. 

Scotch Coilo/is. 

Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over, and 
rather round : beat with a rolling pin : grate a lit- 
tle nutmeg over them : dip in the yelk of an eg^ 
and fry them in a little butter, of a fine brown : pour 
it from them ; and have ready warm, to pour upon 
them, half a pint of gravy, a little bit of butter rub- 
bed into a little flour, to which put a yelk of an 
egg, too large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit of salt. 
Do not boil the sauce, but stir it until of a fine 
thickness to serve with the collops. 
Kidney. 

Chop veal kidney, and some of the fat, likewise 
a little lee k or onion, pepper, salt. Roll it up with 
an e?;g into balls, and fry them. 

Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal ; or you 
may do it as follows : 

Season a lar^,e slice of the fillet before dressed, 
with some mace, peppercorns, and two or three 
cloves, and lay il close into a potting pan that will 
but just hold it, and fill it up with water, and bake 
it three hours. Then pound it quite small in a 
mortar, and add salt to taste. Put a little gravy. 



MEATS. 47 

that was baked, to it in pounding, if to be e&ten 
soon ; otherwise only a little butter just melted. 

When done, cover it over with butter. 
To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham, 

Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, sea- 
soned as above, and put layers of it with layers of 
pounded ham* or rather shred : press each down, 
and cover over with butter. 

Mck of Veal 

Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion 
sauce. It should be boiled in milk and water. 
Parsley and butter may be served with it, instead 
of the former sauce ; or it may be stewed with 
whole rice, small onions, and peppercorns, with a 
very little water ; or boiled and eaten with bacon 
and greens. 

Best end, roasted, broiled as steaks, or made into 
pies. 

Breast of Veal. 

Before roasted, if large, the two ends may be 
taken off and fried to stew, or the whole may be 
roasted. Butter should be poured over it. 

If any be left, cut the pieces in handsome sizes, 
and putting them into a stewpan, pour some broth 
over it ; or if you have none, a little water will do. 
Add a bunch of herbs, a blade or two of mace? some 
pepper, and an anchovy. Stew till the meat is ten- 
der : thicken with butter and flour, and add a little 
catsup ; or the whole breast may be stewed, after 
cutting off the two ends, 

G 



48 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

The sweetbread is to be served up whole in the 
middle ; and if you have a few mushrooms, truffles* 
and morels, stew them with it, and serve. 

Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion 
sauce, is an excellent dish, if not old, or too fat. 
Rolled Breast of Veal. 

Bone it, and take off the thick skin and gristle, 
and beat the meat with a rolling pin. Season with 
herbs chopped very fine, mixed with salt, pepper, 
and mace. Lay some thick slices of fine ham, or 
roll into it two or three calves' tongues of a fine 
red, and boiled first an hour or two and skinned. 
Bind it up tight in a cloth, and tape it. Set it over 
the fire to simmer in a small quantity of water 
until it be quite tender. Some hours will be neces- 
sary. 

Lay it on the dresser with a board and weight 
on it till quite cold. 

Pigs' or calves' feet, boiled and taken from the 
bones, may be put in or round it. The different 
colours, laid in layers, look well when cut ; and 
yelks of eggs boiled may be put in, with beet root, 
grated ham, and chopped parsley. 
Shoulder of Veal. 

Cut off the knuckle of the shoulder, for a stew 
or gravy. Roast the other part, with stuffing. You 
may lard it. Serve with melted butter. 

Blade bone, with a good deal of meat left on, eats 
extremely well with mushroom or oyster sauce ;• 
or mushroom catsup in butter. 



MEATS. 49 

Different ways of dressing Calf's head. 
To Boil. 

Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, that it 
may look very white. Take out the tongue to salt, 
and the brains to make a little dish. Boil the head 
extremely tender ; then strew it over with crumbs 
and chopped parsley, and brown them; or, if pre- 
ferred, leave one side plain. 

Bacon and greens are to be served to eat with it. 

The brains must be boiled, and then mixed with 
melted butter, chopped scalded sage, pepper, and 
salt. 

If any be left of the head, it may be hashed next 
day, and a few slices of bacon just warmed and put 
round. 

Cold calPs head eats well. 

Bathed Calf 8 Head. 

When half boiled, cut off the meat in slices, half 
an inch thick, and two or three inches long. Brown 
some butter, flour, and sliced onion, and throw in 
the slices with some good gravy, truffles, and 
morels. Give it one boil, skim it well, and set it 
in a moderate heat to simmer till very tender. 

Season with pepper, salt, and Cayenne, at first ; 
and ten minutes before serving, throw in some 
shred parsley, and a very small bit of tarragon, 
and knotted marjoram, cut as fine as possible. Just 
before you serve, add the squeeze of a lemon. 
Forcemeat balls and bits of bacon rolled round. 
Mock Turtle. 

Bespeak a calf's head with the skin on : cut in 
half, and clean it well ; then half boil it, Have all 



50 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

the meat taken off in square bits, and break the 
bones of the head : boil them in some veal and beef 
broth, to add to the richness. Fry some shalot 
in butter : dredge in flour sufficient to thicken the 
gravy, which stir into the browning, and give 
it one or two boils : skim carefully, then put in the 
head. Put in a pint of Madeira wine, and sim- 
mer till the meat be quite tender. About ten 
minutes before you serve, put in some basil, 
tarragon, chives, parsley, Cayenne pepper, and 
salt to your taste ; and two spoonfuls of mushroom 
catsup, and one of soy. Squeeze the juice of a 
lemon into the tureen, and pour the soup upon it. 
Forcemeat balls, and small eggs. 
A cheaper way. 

Prepare half a calf *s head, without the skin, as 
3(bove. when the meat is cut off, break the bones, 
and put into a saucepan, with some gravy made of 
beef and veal bones, and seasoned with fried onions, 
herbs, mace, and pepper. Have ready two or three 
ox palates, boiled so tender as to blanch, and cut 
in small pieces ; to which a cowheel, likewise cut in 
pieces, is a great improvement. Brown some but- 
ter, flour, and onion, and pour the gravy to it ; then 
add the meats as above, and stew. Haifa pint of 
sherry wine, an anchovy, two spoonfuls of walnut 
catsup, the same of mushroom, some chopped 
herbs as before. Balls, &c. 

Forcemeat as for Turtle, at the Bush, BtisfoL 

A pound of fine fresh suet, one ounce of ready 
dressed veal or chicken, chopped fine, crumbs of 



MEATS. 51 

bread, a little shalot or onirn, salt, white pepper, 
nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon ; 
thyme finely shred : beat as many fresh eggs, 
yelks and whites separately, as will make the above 
ingredients into a moist paste : roll into small balls, 
and boil them in fresh lard, putting them in just as 
it boils up. When of a light brown, take them out, 
and drain them before the fire. If the suet be moist 
or stale, a great many more eggs will be necessary. 

Balls made this way are remarkably light ; but 
being greasy, some people prefer them with less 
suet and eggs. 

Another Forcemeat* for Balls or Patties. 

Pound cold veal or chicken : take out the strings : 
add some fat bacon ; and, if you like, the least por- 
tion of scraped ham : herbs, as for the preceding : 
pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, crumbs of bread, a 
little onion, and two eggs. 

Note. When forcemeat is to be eaten cold, as in 
pies, bacon is far better than suet, and the taste is 
always higher. 

Another Mock Turtle. 

Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cow- 
heels, two onions, a few cloves, peppers, Jamaica 
peppers, mace, and sweet herbs : co>er with water, 
and then, tying a thick paper over the pan, set it 
in an oven for three hours. When cold, take off 
the fat very nicely : cut the meat and feet into bits 
an inch and half square : remove the bones and 
coarser parts ; then put the other on to warm, with 
walnut and mushroom catsup, a large spoonful of 
each, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little 
c 2 



52 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

mushroom powder, and the jelly of the meat. 
When hot, if it want any more seasoning, add it, 
and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, a juice 
of lemon, and a spoonful of soy. 

This is a very easy process, and the dish is ex- 
cellent. 

Another Ditto. 

Stew a pound and a half of scrag of mutton, with 
three pints of water to a quart ; then set the broth 
on, with a calf's foot and a cowheel : cover the 
stewpan tight, and simmer till you can cut off the 
meat from the bones in proper bits. Set it on again, 
with the broth, a quarter of a pint of Maderia or 
sherry wine, a large onion, half a teaspoonful of 
Cayenne pepper, a bit of lemonpeel, two anchovies, 
some sweet herbs, and eighteen oysters cut in 
pieces, and then chopped fine, a teaspoonful of salt, 
a little nutmeg, and the liquor of the oysters : 
cover tight, and simmer three quarters of an hour. 
Serve with forcemeat balls, and hard eggs in the 
tureen. 

Note. Cow-heels, with veal or head, are a great 
miprovement ; and if not too much boiled, have a 
very fine flavour stewed for turtle ; and are more 
solid than the calf's feet. 

Calf's Head Pie. 

Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with 
two onions, a few isinglass shavings, a bunch of 
herbs, a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns, in 
two quarts or less of water. Keep the broth for 
the pie. Take off a bit of the meat for the balls, 
and let the other be eaten ; but simmer the bones 



MEATS. 53 

in the broth till it is very good. Half boil the head, 
and cut it in square bits : put a layer of ham at the 
bottom, then some head, first fat then lean, with 
balls and hard eggs cut in half, and so on till the 
dish be full ; but be particularly careful not to place 
the pieces close, or the pie will be too solid, and 
there will be no space for the jelly. The meat 
must be first pretty well seasoned with pepper and 
salt, and a scrape or two of nutmeg. Put a little water 
and a little gravy into the dish, and cover it with a 
tolerably thick crust : bake it in a slow oven ; and 
when done, pour into it as much gravy as it can 
possibly hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold : 
in doing which, observe to use a very sharp knife, 
and first cut out a large bit, going down to the bot- 
tom of the dish ; and when done thus, the different 
colours, and the clear jelly, have a beautiful mar- 
bled appearance. 

A small pie may be made to eat hot ; which, 
with high seasoning, oysters, mushrooms, truffles, 
morels, Sec has a very good appearance. 

The cold pie will keep some days. Slices make 
a pretty side dish. 

The pickled tongues of former calves' heads may 
be cut in, to vary the colour, instead of, or besides 
ham. 

Calf's Head Fricasseed. 

Clean, and half boil half a head. Cut the meat 

in small bits, and put into a tosser, with a little 

gravy made of the bones, and some of the water it 

was boiled in, a Lunch of sweet herbs, an onion. 



54 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

and a blade of mace. If you have a sweetbread, or 
young cockerels in the house, use the cockscombs ; 
having first boiled them tender and blanched. Sea- 
son the gravy with a little pepper, nutmeg, and salt : 
rub down some flour and butter, and give all a boil 
together ; then remove the herbs and onion, and 
add a little cup of cream, but do not boil it in. Serve 
with small bits of bacon rolled round, and balls. 
Veal Patties. 

Mince some veal, that is not quite done, with a 
little parsley, lemonpeel, a scrape of nutmeg, and 
a little salt : add a little cream and gravy just to 
moisten the meat ; and if you have any ham, scrape 
a little bit and add to it. Do not warm it till the 
patties are baked ; and observe to put a bit of bread 
into each, to prevent the paste from rising into cake. 
Fricandeau. 

Cut a large piece out of the prime part of a leg 
of veal, about nine inches long, and half as broad 
and thick : beat it with a rolling pin ; then lard it 
very thickly on one side and the edges. Put it in 
a small stewpan, with three pints of water, a pound 
of veal cut in small bits, and four or five ounces of 
lean ham, and an onion : simmer till the meat be 
tender ; then take it out ; cover to keep it moist, 
and boil the gravy till it be a fine brown, and much 
reduced : then put the larded meat back into the 
gravy, and pour a little of it over with a spoon. 
When quite hot, serve the meat and gravy round 
in the dish, with the following sauce in a boat. 
Sorrel Sauce. 

Wash a quantity of sorrel, and boil it tender in 
the smallest quantity of water you can; strain and 



MEATS. 



55 



chop it : stew it with a little butter, pepper, and salt ; 
and if you like it high, add a spoonful of gravy. 

Be careful to do it in a very well tinned sauce- 
pan ; or if you have a silver one, or a silver mug, 
it is far better ; as the sorrel is very sour, espec- 
ially in spring. 

Veal Olives. 

Cut long thin collops : beat them, and lay on 
them thin slices of fat bacon, and over a layer of 
forcemeat seasoned high, with the addition of shred 
shalot, and Cayenne. Roll them tight, about the 
size of two fingers, but not more than two or three 
inches long : fastep them round with a small skew- 
er : rub egg over, and fry them of a light brown. 

Serve with brown gravy. 

Calf's Liver. 

Sliced : seasoned with pepper and salt, and nice- 
ly broiled. Rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve 
hot and hot. 

Boasted. 

Wash and wipe it : then cut a long hole in it, and 
stuff it with crumbs of bread, chopped anchovy, 
herbs, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, 
a bit of butter, and an egg. Sew the liver up ; 
then lard or wrap it in a veal caul, and roast it. 

Serve with a good brown gravy, and currantjelly. 
Sweetbreads. 

Half boil, and stew in a white gravy. Add cream, 
flour, butter, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper : or, in 
brown, seasoned : or, after parboiling, cover with 
crumbs, herbs, and seasoning, and brown in a Dutch 
oven. 'Serve with butter, and mushroom catsup, or 
gravy. 



56 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Sweetbread Ragout. 

Cut them about the size of a walnut : wash and 
dry them ; then fry of a fine brown. Pour to them 
a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, 
mushrooms, or the catsup. Strain, and thicken 
with butter, and a little flour. You may add truf- 
fles, and morels, and the mushrooms. 
Veal Sausages. 

Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, 
a handful of sage, a little salt, pepper, and a few 
anchovies. Beat all in a mortar ; and, when used, 
roll and fry it, and serve with fried sippets. 

Spadbury's veal and pork sausages, under the 
article of pork. 

To make excellent meat of a Hog's Head. 

Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the 
ears, and sprinkle it with common salt for a day ; 
then drain. Salt it well with common salt and 
saltpetre three days ; then lay salt and head into 
water (a small quantity) for two days. Wash it, 
and boil it till all the bones will come out : remove 
them, and chop the head as quick as possible ; 
having skinned the tongue, and taken the skin 
carefully off the head, to put under and over. Sea- 
son with pepper, salt, a little mace or Jamaicas. Put 
the skin into a small pan : press the cut head in, 
and put the other skin over : press it down. 
When cold, it will turn out and make a kind of 
brawn. If too fat, you may put a few bits of lean 
pork to go through the same process. Add salt 
and vinegar, and boil with some of the liquor for a 
pickle to keep it. 



MEATS. 57 

To scald a Sucking Pig. 

The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold 
water for a few minutes ; then rub it over with a 
little rosin, beaten extremely small, and put it into 
a pail of scalding water half a minute ; take it out, 
lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as 
possible. If any part does not come off, put it in 
again. When perfectly clean, wash it well with 
warm water, then in two or three cold waters, lest 
any flavour of the rosin should remain. Take off 
the four feet at the first joint : make a slit down 
the belly, and take out the entrails : put the liver, 
heart, and lights to the feet ; wash the pig well in 
cold water, dry it thoroughly, and fold it in a wet 
cloth to keep it from the air. 

To roast a sucking Pig r 

If you can get it when just killed, it is of great 
advantage. Let it be scalded, which those who sell 
usually do. Then put some sage, crumbs of bread, 
salt, and pepper in the belly, and sew it up. Ob- 
serve to skewer the legs back, or the under part 
will not crisp. 

Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry ; then 
have ready some butter, in a dry cloth, and rub the 
pig with it in every part. Dredge as much flour 
over as will possibly lie, and touch it no more till 
ready to serve ; then scrape off the flour, with the 
greatest care, with a blunt knife : rub it well with 
the buttered cloth : take off the head while yet at 
the fire, and take out the brains, and mix them 
with the gravy that comes from the pig. Then 
take it up, and, without withdrawing the spit, cut 



58 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

it down the b ick and belly : lay it in the dish, and 
chop the s fge and bread quickly, as fine as you 
can, and mix with a large quantity of fine melted 
butter, which has very little flour. Put the sauce 
into the dish after the pig has been split down the 
back, and garnished with the two ears, and the two 
jaws ; the upper part of the head being taken off 
down to the snout. 

In Devon, it is served whole if very small ; the 
head only being cut off. 

Pettitoes. 

Boil them, and the liver and heart, in a small 
quantity of water very gently ; then cut the>meat 
fine, and simmer it with a little of the water and 
the feet split, till the latter be quite tender. Thick- 
en with a bit of butter, a little flour, a spoonful of 
cream, a little salt, and pepper : give a boil up, 
and pour over a few sippets of bread, and put the 
feet on the mince. 

Porkn's Head roasted. 

Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put 
bread and sage as for pig : sew it up tight, and put 
it on a string or hanging jack. Roast it as a pig, 
and serve with the same sauce. 

Pig's Cheek for boiling. 

Cut off the snout, and clean the head : divide it, 
take out the eyes and the brains, and sprinkling the 
head with salt, let it drain twenty four hours. Salt 
it with common salt and saltpetre. Let it lie eight 
or ten days, if to be dressed without stewing with 
peas ; but less, if to be dressed with peas ; and it 
must be washed first, and then simmered till all is 
tender. 



MEATS. 59 

Collared Head. 

Scour the head and ears nicely : take oft' the hair 
and snout, and take out the eyes and the brain ; 
lay it in water one night ; then drain and salt it 
extremely well with common salt and saltpetre, and 
let it lie five days. Boil it enough to remove the 
bones, then lay it on a dresser, turning the thick 
end of one side of the head towards the thin end of 
the other, to make the roll of equal size, sprinkle it 
well with salt and white pepper, and roll it with the 
ears ; and if you approve, put the pig's feet round 
the outside when boned ; or the thin parts of two 
cowheels. Bind it in a cloth and with a broad tape, 
and boil it till quite tender ; then put a good weight 
upon it, and do not remove the covering till cold. 

If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it 
longer, and let the proportion of saltpetre be great- 
er, putting in some pieces of lean pork, and then 
cover it with cowheel, to look like the horn. 

This may be kept in or out of pickle of salt, 
and water boiled, with vinegar ; and is a very con- 
venient thing to have in the house. 

If likely to spoil, slice and fry it with or without 
butter. 

To roast a Leg of Pork. 

Choose a small leg of fine young pork, cut a slit 
in the knuckle with a sharp knife, and fill the space 
with sage and onion, chopped, and a little pepper 
and salt. When half done, score the skin in slices, 
but do not cut deeper than the outer rind. 

Apple sauce and potatoes should be served to eat 
with it. 

H 



60 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

To boil a Leg of Pork 

Salt it eight or ten days ; when to be dressed, 
weigh it ; let it lie half an hour in cold water to 
make it white ; allow a quarter of an hour for e very- 
pound, and half an hour over from the time it boils 
up ; skim it as soon as it boils, and frequently after. 
Allow water enough. Save some of it to make 
pease soup. Some boil in a very nice cloth, floured, 
which gives a very delicate look. 

Serve pease pudding and turnips. 

Different ways of dressing Pig's Feet and Ears. 

Clean them carefully, and soak them some hours: 
boil them tender, then take them out ; and with 
some of the water boil some vinegar and a little 
salt, and when cold put over them. When to be 
dressed, dry them, divide the feet in two, and slice 
the ears i fry and serve them with butter, mustard, 
and vinegar. They may be done in butter or only 
floured. 

Feet and Ears Fricasseed. 

Put no vinegar in the pickle, if to be dressed 
with cream. Cut the feet and ears into neat bits, 
and boil them in a little milk ; then pour that from 
them, and simmer in a little veal broth, with a bit 
of onion, mace and lemonpeel. Before you serve, 
add a little cream, flour, butter, and salt. 
Jelly of Feet and Ears. 

Clean and prepare as in the foregoing receipt ; 
then boil in a very small quantity of water until 
every bone can be taken out ; throw in half a hand- 
ful of chopped sage, the same of parsley, a season- 



MEATS. 61 

ing of pepper, salt, and mace, in fine powder ; sim- 
mer till the herbs are scalded, then pour the whole 
into a melon form. 

Pork Steaks. 

Cut them from a loin or neck, of middling thick- 
ness : pepper and broil them, turning often. When 
nearly done, put the salt necessary, rub a bit of 
butter over, and serve the moment they are taken 
off the fire ; a few at a time. 

To cure Hams. First way. 

Hang them a day or two ; then sprinkle with a 
little salt, and drain them another day. Pound an 
ounce and a half of saltpetre, ditto petresalt, half an 
ounce of sal prunel, and a pound of the coarsest 
sugar : mix these well, and rub into each ham 
every day for four days, and turn it. If a small 
one, turn it every day for three weeks : if a large 
one, a week longer ; but do not rub after four days. 
Before you dry it, drain and cover with bran. 
Smoke it ten days. 

Another way. Second way. 
Choose a leg of a hog that is fat and well fed : 
hang as above- To it, if large, put, in fine powder, 
one pound of bay salt, four ounces saltpetre, one 
pound of the coarsest sugar, and one handful of 
common salt, and rub it thoroughly. Lay the rind 
downwards, and cover the fleshy part with the salts. 
Baste it as often as you can with the pickle ; the 
more the better. Keep it four weeks in the pickle, 
turning it daily. Drain and throw bran over it ; 
then hang it in a chimney where wood is burnt, and 
turn it sometimes for ten days. 



62 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Another way. Third way. 

Hang the ham and sprinkle with salt as above, 
then rub it daily with the following in fine powder : 
half a pound of salt, ditto bay salt,two ounces of salt- 
petre, and two ounces of black pepper, mixed with 
a pound and a half of treacle. Turn it twice a day 
in the pickle, for three weeks. Lay it in a pail of 
water for one. night, wipe it quite dry, and smoke 
it two or three weeks. 
Another way, that gives a high flavour . Fourth way. 

When the weather will permit, hang the ham 
three days: mix an ounce of saltpetre with one quar- 
ter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt, ditto 
of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer ; boil 
them together, and pour over immediately on the 
ham ; turn it twice a day in the pickle for three 
weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento, 
in finest powder, added to the above, will give still 
more flavour. Cover with bran when wiped, and 
smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve ; 
the latter will make it harder, and more of the fla- 
vour of Wesphalia. Sew hams in hessings, i. e. 
coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is 
strong fire. 

A method of giving a still higher flavour. 

Sprinkle the ham with salt after it has hung two 
or three days : let drain ; make a pickle of a quart 
of strong beer, half a pound of treacle, an ounce 
of coriander seeds, two ounces of juniperberries, 
an ounce of pepper, ditto pimento, an ounce of 



MEATS. , 63 

saltpetre, half an ounce of sal prune], a handful of 
common salt, and a head of shalot, all pounded or 
cut fine. Boil' these together a few minutes, and 
pour over the ham : this quantity for one of ten 
pounds. Rub and turn it every day, for a fortnight ; 
then sew it up in a thin linen bag, and smoke it 
three weeks. Observe to drain it from the pickle, 
and rub it in bran previous to drying. 
Hogs' Cheeks to dry. 

The snout being cut off, the brains removed, and 
the head cleft, but not cut apart on the upper side, 
rub it well with salt. Next day remove the brine, 
and salt it again ; the following day cover the head 
with half an ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of bay 
salt, a little common, and four ounces of coarsest 
sugar. Let the head be often turned. In twelve 
days smoke for a week like bacon. 
To dress Hams. 

If long hung, put the ham into water a night, and 
either dig a hole in the earth, or let it lie on damp 
stones, sprinkled with water to mellow, two or three 
days, covering it with a heavy tub, to keep vermin 
from it. Wash it well, and put it into a boiler with 
plenty of water. Let it simmer four, five, or six 
hours, according to the size. When sufficiently 
done, if before the time of serving, cover it with a 
clean cloth doubled, and keep the dish hot over 
boiling water. Remove the skin, and strew raspings 
over the ham. Garnish with carrot. Preserve the 
h 2 



64 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

skin as whole as possible, to keep over the ham 
when cold, which will prevent its drying. 

The manner of curing Wiltshire Bacon. 
Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood 
drain off for twenty four hours ; then mix one 
pound and a half of coarse sugar, ditto of bay salt, 
not quite so much as half a pound of saltpetre, and 
a pound of common salt, and rub it well on the 
bacon, turning it every day for a month ; then hang 
it to dry, and afterwards smoke it ten days. The 
above salts are for the whole hog. 
To fickle Pork. 
The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a 
pretty large hog ; the hams and shoulders being 
cut off. 

Mix and pound fine four ounces of saltpetre, one 

pound of coarse sugar, one ounce of sal prunel, and 

a little common salt. Having sprinkled the pork 

with salt, and drained it twenty four hours, rub it with 

the above, and then pack the piects tight in a small 

deep tub, filling up the spaces with common salt. 

Place large pebbles on the pork, to prevent its 

swimming in the pickle which the salt will produce. 

Sausages. 

Chop fat and lean of pork : season with sage, 

pepper, and salt ; and you may add two or three 

pimentos. Half /ill hog's guts, that havebeen soaked 

and made extremely clean : or the meat may be 

kept in a very small pan, closely covered ; and so 

rolled and dusted with a very little flour before they 

are fried. 



MEATS. 65 

An excellent Sausage to eat cold. 
Season fat and lean pork "with some salt, salt- 
petre, black and Jamaica pepper, all in finest pow- 
der, and well rubbed into the meat. The sixth day- 
cut it small, and mis with it some shred shalot, 
or garlick, as fine as possible. Have ready an ox 
gut that has been scoured, salted, and soaked well, 
and fill it with the above stuffing : tie up the ends, 
and hang it to smoke as you would hams ; but first 
wrap it in a fold or two of old muslin. It must be 
high dried. Srme eat it without boiling, others 
like it boiled first. The skin should be tied in 
different places, making each link about eight 
or nine inches long. 

S/iadbury*s Oxford Sausages. 
Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same 
of veal, cleared of skins and sinews. Add three 
quarters of a pound of beef suet, mince and mix 
them. Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in water, 
and with a little dried sage, pepper, and salt, mix 
with the meat. 

Black Puddings. 

The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put 

a quart of it, or rather more, to a quart of old 

grils, to soak one night ; and soak the crumbs of a 

quartern loaf in rather more than two quarts of 

new milk, made hot. In the mean time prepare 

the guts, by washing and scraping with salt and 

water, and changing the water several times. 

Chop fine a little winter savory and thyme, a great 

deal of pennyroyal, pepper, salt, a few cloves, all- 



66 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

spice, ginger, and nutmeg. Mix these with three 
pounds of beefsuet, and six eggs well beaten and 
strained* and then beat the bread, grits, Sec. all up 
with the seasoning. When well mixed, have ready 
some hogsfdt cut in large bits, and as you fill the 
skins put it in at proper distances. Tie them in links, 
having only half filled them, and boil them in a 
large kettle, pricking them as they swell, or they 
will burst. When boiled, lay them between clean 
clothrs till cold, and hang them up in the kitchen. 
When to be used, scald them a few minutes in 
water, wipe and put them in a Dutch oven. 

If there are not sufficient skins, put the stuffing 
in basons, and boil, covered with floured cloths ; 
and slice and fry it when used. 

Black Puddings another way. 

Soak a quart of bruised grits in two quarts of hot 
milk, or less, if sufficient to swell them. Chop a 
good quantity of pennyroyal, some savory and 
thyme ; salt, pepper, and Jamaica pepper, finely 
powdered. Mix the above with a quart of the 
blood, prepared as before : then half fill fhe skins, 
after they have been cleaned most thoroughly, and 
put as much of the leaf, i. e. fat of the pig, as shall 
make it pretty rich. Boil as before directed. 
White Hogs' Puddings. 

When the skins have been soaked and cleaned 
as before directed, rince and soak them all night in 
rosewater, and put into them the following filling ; 
mix half a pound of blanched almonds, cut in seven 
or eight bits, with one pound of grated bread, two 



MEATS. 67 

pounds of marrow or suet, one pound of currents, 
some beaten cinnamon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, 
a quart of cream, yelks of six, and whiles of two 
eggs, a little orange flour water, a little fine Lisbon 
sugar, some lemon peel, and citron sliced, and 
half fill the skins. Boil as belore directed. 
Hogs* Lard 

Should be carefully melted in a jar. put into a 
kettle ( f water, and boiled and run into bladders 
that ha\e been extiemely well cleaned. The small- 
er they are, the better the lard keeps ; as after the 
air reaches it, it becomes rank. Put in a sprig of 
rosemary when melted. 

This being a most useful article for frying fish, 
it should be prepared with care. Mixed with but- 
ter it makes fine crust. 

Pig's Harslet. 

Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat 
and lean bits of pork ; beating the latter with a 
rolling pin to make it tender. Season with pepper, 
salt, sage, and a little onion, shred fine. Put all 
when mixed into a cawl, and fasten it up tight with 
a needle and thread. Roast it on a hanging jack, 
or by a string. Or serve in slices with parsley for 
a fry. 

Serve with a sauce of port and water, and mus- 
tard just boiled up, and put into the dish. 
Loins and Necks of Pork, roast. 

Shoulders and breasts put into pickle, or salt the 
former as a leg. 



68 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Foiled jVrck. 
Bone it. Put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very 
few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, and two or three 
pimentos over the inside : then roll the meat as 
tight as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good 
distance at first. 

To make a Pickle for Hams, Tongues, or Beef^if boil- 
ed and skimmed between each parcel of them, that 
will keep for years. 

To two gallons of spring water put two pounds 
of coarse sugar, two pounds of bay, and two and a 
half pounds of common salt, and half a pound of 
saltpetre, in a deep earthen glazed pan, that will 
hold four gallons, and has a cover that will fit close. 
Keep the beef or hams as long as they will bear, 
before you put them into the pickle, and sprinkle 
them with coarse sugar in a pan, from which they 
must drain. Rub the hams, &c. well with the 
pickle, and pack them in close, putting as much 
as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover 
them. The pickle is not to be boiled at first. 
A small ham may lie fourteen days, a large one 
three weeks ; a tongue twelve days ; beef in pro- 
portion to its size. They will eat well out of the 
pickle without drying. When to be dried, let each 
piece be drained over the pan, and when it will drop 
no longer, take a clean sponge and dry it thorough- 
ly. Six or eight hours will smoke thtm ; and 
there should be only a little sawdust and wet straw 
burnt to smoke them ; but if put into a baker*s 
chimney, sew them in coarse cloth, and hang 
them a week. 



MEATS. 69 

Excellent Bacon. 

When the hog is divided, if a large one, the 
chine should be cut out. The bacon will be pre- 
served from being rusty, if the spareribs are left in. 
Salt the bacon six days ; then drain it from the 
first pickle. Mix as much salt as you judge pro- 
per with eight ounces of bay salt, four ounces of 
saltpetre, and one pound of coarse sugar, to each 
hog, the hams being first cut off. Rub the salts 
well in, and turn it every day for a month. Drain, 
and smoke a few days ; or dry without, by hanging 
in the kitchen, not near the fire. 

Mutton. The Haunch. 

Keep as long as it can be preserved sweet, by the 
different modes of keeping. Let it be washed with 
warm milk and water, or vinegar, if necessary ; but 
RQak off the flavour from keeping. Put a coarse 
paste on strong paper, and fold the haunch in : set 
it at a great distance from the fire, and allow pro- 
portionable time for the paste, which do not remove 
till about thirty five or forty minutes before serving; 
then baste it perpetually. You will have brought 
the haunch nearer to the fire before you take off 
the paste, and must froth it up as you would veni- 
son. 

A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of 
loin of old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to 
half, and no seasoning but salt. Brown it with a 
little burnt sugar, and send it up in the dish : but 
there should be much gravy in the meat ; for 
though long at the fire, the distance and covering 
will prevent its being done dry. 



70 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Serve with curranljelly sauce. 

Legs roasted, and rnion or curranljelly sauce : 
or, boiled, with caper sauce and vegetables. 

Necks are particularly useful, as so many dishes 
may be made of them ; but they are not advanta- 
geous for the family. The bones should be cut 
short; which the butchers will not do unless par- 
ticularly desired. 

JVbie. When there is more fat to a neck or loin 
of mutton than is agreeable to eat with the lean, it 
makes an uncommonly good suet pudding, or crust 
for a meatpye, being cut very fine. 

The best end of the neck boiled, and served with 
turnips : or roasted : orin steaks, in pies, or harrico. 

The scrag stewed in broth, or with a small quan- 
tity of water, some small onions, a few pepper- 
corns and a little rice, and served together. 
Harrico. 

Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or 
best end of the neck into rather thin steaks. Put 
the fat into a fryingpan, and, flouring, fry them in 
it of a fine light brown, but not enough for eating. 
Putthem in a dish while you fry the carrots, turnips, 
and onions ; the former in dice, the latter sliced ; 
but they must only be warmed, not browned, or you 
need not fry them. Then lay the steaks at the 
bottom of a stewpan, the vegetables over, and pour 
as much boiling water on them as will just cover : 
give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on 
the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender : in 
three or four hours skim, and add pepper, salt, and 
one spoonful of catsup. 



MEATS. 71 

Mu'ton Pie. 

Cut steaks from a loin or neck of mutton : beat 
them and remove some of the fat. Season with 
salt, pepper, and a little onion. Put a little water 
at the bottom of the dish, and a littie paste on the 
edge; then cover with a moderately thick paste. Or 
raise small pies, and, breaking each bone in two to 
shorten it, season and cover it over, pinching the 
edge. When they come out, pour a spoonful of 
gravy, made of a bit of mutton, into each. The 
mutton should have hung. 

Mutton and Potatoe Pie. 

Season the steaks of a loin or neck; lay them in a 
dish : have ready potatoes mashed very thick, with 
some milk, and a bit of butter and salt, and cover 
the meat as with a very thick crust, and to come 
on the surrounding edge. 

Mutton Pudding. 

Season as above. Lay one layer of steaks at the 
bottom of the dish, and pour a batter of potatoes 
boiled and pressed through a colander, and mixed 
with milk and an egg, over them : then putting the 
rest of the steaks, and batter, bake it. 

Batter with flour, instead of potatoes, eats well, 
but requires more egg, and is not so good. 
Mutton Sausages. 

Take a pound of the rawest part of a leg of mut- 
ton that has been either roasted orboileci : chop it 
extremely small : season with pepper, salt, mace, 
and nutmeg. Add six ounces of beef suet, some 
sweet herbs, two anchovies, and a pint of oysters, 
■all chopped very small ; a quarter of a pound of 



72 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

grated bread, some of the anchovy liquor, and all 
that came from the oysters ; the yelks and whites 
of two eggs well beaten. Put it all, when well mix- 
ed, into a little pot, and use it by rolling it into balls 
or sausage shape, snd fry them. If approved, a 
little shalot may be added ; or garlick, which is a 
great improvement. 

Mutton Steaks 

Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung. 
If the latter, the bones should not be long. They 
should be broiled on a clear fire, and seasoned when 
half done, and frequently turned ; when, taking into 
a very hot dish, rub a bit of butter on each, and 
serve hot and hot the moment they are done. 

They may be covered with forcemeat. 
Mutton Collofis. 

Cut irom that part of a well hung loin of mutton 
which is next the leg, some collops very thin. 
Take out the sinews. Season them with salt, pen- 
per and mace, and strew over them shred parsley, 
thyme, and two or three shalots. Fry them in but- 
ter till half done. Add half a pint of gravy, a little 
juice of lemon, and a pieceof butter rubbed in flour, 
and simmer the whole very gently five minutes. 
They should be served immediately, or they will 
be hard. 

JLamb Steaks. 

Fry a beautiful brown. Throw over them, when 
served, a good quantity of crumbs of bread fried, 
and crimped parsley : the receipt for doing which 
of a fine colour, is given under the article of vege- 
tables. 



MEATS. 73 

Mutton and Lamb steaks, seasoned and broiled 
in buttered papers, either with crumbs and herbs, 
or without, are a genteel dish, and eat well. 

Sauce for them, called sauce Robart, under the 
list of sauces. 

Saddle or Loin of mutton, roasted : the former 
a fashionable dish. 

Shoulder of mutton, roasted, and onion sauce. 
Bladebone broiled. 

Shoulder of Mutton boiled with Oysters. 

Hang it some days, then salt it well for two. 
Bone it. and sprinkle it with pepper, and a bit of 
mace pounded. Lay some oysters over it, and roll 
the meat up tight with a fillet. Stew it in a small 
quantity of water, with an onion, and a few pepper- 
corns, till quite tender. 

Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters 
stewed in it : thicken with flour and butter, and 
pour over the mutton when the tape is removed. 
The stewpan should be kept close covered. 
Breast of Mutton, 

The superfluous fat being cut off, roast, and serve 
with stewed cucumbers : or, to eat cold, having 
covered it with chopped parsley : or half boiled, 
and then grilled before the fire, being covered with 
crumbs and herbs, and served with caper sauce : 
or boned, a good deal of the fat being taken off, and 
covered with bread, herbs, and seasoning ; then 
rolled, and boiled, and served with chopped walnut, 
or capers and butter. 



74 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Rolled Loin of Mutton. 
Hang the mutton, to be tender. Bone it, and lay 
a seasoning of pepper, pimento, mace, nutmeg, a 
few cloves, all in fine powder, over it. Next day 
prepare a stuffing as for a hare, beat the meat, and 
cover it with the stuffing, roll it tight, and fillet it. 
Half bake it in a slow oven : let it grow cold : re- 
move the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan : 
flour the meat, and put in likewise ; stew till near 
ready, and add a glass of port wine, some catsup, 
an anchovy, and a little lemon pickle, half an hour 
before serving, which do in the gravy, and with 
jelly sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a great 
improvement, but not if to eat like hare, nor add 
the lemon pickle. 

Rumps, kidneys, livers, and hearts, well washed, 
seasoned, and broiled, and served with cold butter 
rubbed on them. 

Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb and Cucumbers. 
Quarter cucumbers, and lay them in a deep 
dish ; sprinkle them with salt, and pour vinegar 
over. Fry chops of a fine brown, and put them in 
a stewpan : drain the cucumbers, and put over the 
steaks : put some sliced onions, pepper, and salt : 
pour hot water or weak broth on them : stew and 
skim well. 

An excellent Hotch Fotch. 

Stew pease, lettuce, and onions, in a very little 

water, with a beef or ham bone. While doing, fry 

some mutton or lamb steaks, seasoned, of a nice 

brown. Three quarters of an hour before dinner 



MEATS.' 75 

put the steaks into a stewpan, and the vegetables 

over : stew them, and serve all together in a tureen. 

Another Hotch Potch. 

Knuckle of veal, and scrag of mutton, stewed 
with vegetables as above. 

Mutton Ham. 

Choose a fine grained leg of wether mutton, of 
twelve or fourteen pounds weight. Let it be cut 
ham shape, and hang two days : then put into a 
stewpan half a pound of bay salt, the same of com- 
mon salt, two ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of 
coarsest sugar, all in powder : mix and make it 
quite hot ; then rub it well into the ham, let it be 
turned in the liquor daily. At the end of four 
days put two ounces more of common salt : in 
twelve days take it out ; dry, and hang it up in the 
wood smoke a week. 

Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese ivay. 

Cut the chops, and half fry them, with sliced 
shalot or onion, chopped parsley, and two bay- 
leaves ; seasoned with pepper and salt. Then lay 
a forcemeat on a piece of white paper, put the chop 
on it, cover with forcemeat, and twist the paper 
up, leaving a hole for the end of the bones to go 
through. Broil on a gentle fire. Serve with 
sauce Robart ; or, as the seasoning makes the cut- 
lets high, a little gravy. 

Lamb. 

Leg boiled in a cloth to look as white as possi- 
ble : the loin fried in steaks and served round, 
garnished with dried or fried parsley. Spinach to 

eat with it. Or dressed separately, or roasted. 
I 2 



76 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Lamb's Head and Hinge. 

That of a house lamb is best, but either, if soak- 
ed in cold water, will be white. Boil the head 
separately till very tender, and have ready the liver 
and lights cut small. After being three parts boil- 
ed, stew them in a little of the water in which they 
were boiled. Season, and thicken with flour and 
butter, and serve the mince round the head. 
Fore Quarter of Lamb. 

Roasted whole, or separately. If left to he cold, 
chopped parsley should be sprinkled over it. 
Lamb's Fry. 

Serve it fried a beautiful colour, and a good deal 
of dried or fried parsley over it. 
Turkey to Boil. 

Make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, lemonpeel, a few oysters or an anchovy, a bit 
of butter, some suet, and an cg^. Put this in the 
crop, and fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in 
a floured cloth, to make it very white. Have rea- 
dy a fine oyster sauce, made rich with butter, a 
little cream, a spoonful of soy, if approved, and 
pour over the bird. Or, liver and lemon sauce. 

Hen birds are best for boiling, and should be 
young. 

Turkey to Roast. 
The sinews of the legs should be drawn, which- 
ever way it be dressed. The head should be twist- 
ed under the wing ; and in drawing, care should 
be taken not to tear the liver, or let the gall touch 
it. Put a stuffing of sausage meat j or, if sausages 



POULTRY. 77 

are to be served in the dish, a bread stuffing. As 
this makes a large addition to the size of the bird, 
observe that the heat of the fire be constantly to 
that part ; for the breast is frequently not enough 
done. A little strip of paper should be put on the 
bone to prevent scorching, while the other parts 
roast. Baste well, and froth it up. Gravy in the 
dish, and plenty of bread sauce in a saucetureen. 
Pulled Turkey. 

Divide the meat of the breast by pulling instead 
of cutting ; then warm it in a spoonful or two of 
white gravy, a little cream, grated nutmeg, salt> 
and a little flour and butter : warm, but do not boil 
it. The leg seasoned, scored, and broiled, put in 
the dish, with the above round it. Cold chicken 
does as well. 

Turkey Patties. 

Mince some of the white parts, and with grated 
lemon, nutmeg, salt, a very little white pepper, 
cream, and a very little bit of butter warmed. Fill 
the patties ; they having been first baked with a 
bit of bread in each, to keep them hollow. 
Pheasants and Partridges. 

Roast as turkey, and serve with a fine gravy : in 
which put the smallest bit of garlick, and bread 
sauce. When cold, they may be made into excel- 
lent patties, but their flavour should not be over- 
powered by lemon. 

Potted Partridge. 

When nicely cleaned, season with the following, 
in finest powder : mace, Jamaica pepper, white 



78 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

pepper, and salt. Rub every part well ; then lay 
the breasts downwards in a pan, and pack the birds 
as close as you possibly can. Put a good deal of 
butter on them ; then cover the pan with a coarse 
flour paste, and a paper over : tie close and bake. 
When cold, put into pots, and cover with butter. 
A very economical way of Potting Birds. 
Prepare as before. When baked, and become 
cold, cut them in proper pieces for helping, and 
pack them close into a large potting pot, and leave, 
if possible, no spaces to receive the butter ; with 
which, cover them, and one third part less will be 
requisite than when done whole. 

To clarify Butter for potted things. 
Put it in a sauceboat, and set that in a stewpan 
that has a little water in, over the fire. When 
melted, observe not to pour the milky parts over 
the potted things, they will sink to the bottom. 

Fowls. 
Boiled, with oyster, lemon, parsley, and butter, 
or liver sauces ; or with bacon and greens. 
Ditto roasted. 
Egg sauce, bread sauce, or garnished with sausa- 
ges, scalded, and parsley. 

A large barndoor fowl well hung, stuffed in the 
crop with sausage meat, and gravy in the dish, and 
with bread sauce. 
The head should be turned under the wing. 
Fowl split down the back, peppered, salted, and 
broiled. Serve it with mushroom saijce. 



POULTRY. 79 

To boil Fowl with Rice. 
Stew the fowl very slowly, in some clear mut- 
tonbroth, well skimmed, and seasoned with onion, 
mace, pepper, and salt. About half an hour before 
it be ready, put in a quarter of a pint of rice, well 
washed and soaked. Simmer till tender ; then 
strain from the broth, and put the rice on a sieve 
before the tire. Keep the fowl hot ; lay it in the 
middle of the dish, and the rice round it, without 
the broth ; which will be very nice to eat as such ; 
but the less liquor it is done with the better. 
Fricassee of Chickens. 

Boil them rather more than half in a small 
quantity of water : let them cool ; then cut them 
up, and put them to simmer in a little gravy, made 
of the liquor thev were boiled in, and a bit of veal 
or mutton, onion, mace, lemonpeel, white pepper, 
and a bunch of sweet herbs. When quite tender, 
keep them hot while you thicken the sauce thus : 
strain off, and put it back into the saucepan, with 
a little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, a bit of flour and 
butter : give it one boil ; and when you are going 
to serve, beat up the yelk of an ^^ add half a pint 
of cream, and stir them over the fire, but do not 
let it boil. 

It will be equally good without the t^. 
Another white Sauce^ more easily made. 

Take a little of the water that boiled the fowls, 
(which must be kept hot) and stew with it some 
cut onion, a bit of parsley, a blade of mace, and a 



80 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

bit of lemonpeel. Mix with this a bit of butter, 
flour, and little thick cream, and adding the chick- 
en, warm it with the sauce. 

The above for veal or rabbit ; but if either are 
not sufficiently done before, then the cream and 
flour should be added just before serving, after the 
meat is a little stewed. 

Davenfiort Fowls. 

Hang young fowls a night : take the livers, 
hearts, and tenderest parts of the gizzards, shred 
very small, with half a handful of young clary, an an- 
chovy to each fowl, one onion, and the yelks of four 
eggs, boiled hard, with pepper, salt, and mace to 
your taste. Stuff the fowls with this, and sew up 
the vents and necks quite close, that the water may 
not get in. Boil them in salt and water till near 
done ; then drain, and put them into a stewpan, 
with butter enough to brown them. Then serve 
with fine melted butter, and a spoonful of catsup, 
of either sort, in the dish. 

To fiull Chicken. 

Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bones 
of a cold fowl, in as large pieces as you can. 
Dredge with flour, and fry of a nice brown in but- 
ter ; which drain from it, and simmer in a good 
gravy, well seasoned, and thickened with a little 
flour and butter. Add the juice of half a lemon. 
Chicken Pie. 

Cut up two young fowls : season with white 
pepper, salt, a little mace, and nutmeg, all in the 



POULTRY. 81 

"finest powder ; likewise a little Cayenne. Put the 
chicken, slices of ham or gammon, forcemeat, and 
hard eggs, alternately. If to be in a dish, put a 
little water ; if in a raised crust, none. Against 
the pie be baked, have ready a gravy of knuckle of 
veal, with a few shank bones, seasoned with herbs, 
onion, mace, and pepper. If in a dish, put in as 
much gravy as will fill it : if in crust, let it go cold j 
then open the lid, and put in the jelly. 

The Forcemeat for Pies of Fowls of any kind. 

Pound fine, cold chicken, or veal, a bit of fat ba- 
con, some grated ham, crumbs of bread, a very 
little bit of onion, parsley, knotted marjorum, and 
a very small bit of tarragon, chopped fine ; a blade 
of mace, a little nutmeg, white pepper, and salt, in 
finest powder. When well mixed, add eggs to 
make into balls. 

Chicken Curry. 

Cut up the chickens before they are dressed, 
and fry them in butter, with sliced onions, till of a 
fine colour : or if you use those that have been 
dressed, do not fry them : lay the joints, cut in two 
or three pieces each, into a stewpan, with veal or 
mutton gravy, a clove or two of garlick, four large 
spoonfuls of cream, and some Cayenne : rub 
smooth one or two spoonfuls of curry powder, with 
a little flour, and a bit of butter, and add twenty 
minutes before you serve ; stewing it on till ready. 
A little juice of lemon should be squeezed in when 
serving. 



bZ DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Slices of rare done veal, rabbit, or turkey, make 
a good curry. 

A dish of rice boiled plain, as hereafter directed, 
must be always served to eat with curry. 

Another Curry, and more quickly made. 

Cut up a chicken or young rabbit ; if the former, 
take off the skin, and rub each piece in a large 
Spoonful of flour, mixed with half an ounce of cur- 
ry powder : slice two or three onions, and fry in 
butter, of a fine light brown ; then add the meat, 
and fry altogether, until the latter begin to brown ; 
then put into a stewpan, and pour boiling water 
over to cover. Let it simmer very gently two or 
three hours until quite tender. If too thick, put 
more water half an hour before it be served. 

Dressed fowl or meat may be done » but the 
curry will be better made of fresh. 
Grouse. 

Are to be roasted like fowls ; but their heads 
twisted under the wing, and served with gravy, and 
bread sauce, or with sauce for wild fowl. See 
Sauces. 

To fiot Grouse, or Moor Game. 
Pick, singe, and wash them very clean ; then rub 
them inside and out with a high seasoning of salt, 
pepper, mace, nutmeg, and allspice. Lay them in 
as small a pot as will hold them : cover them with 
butter, and bake them in a slow oven. When cold, 
take off the butter, move the birds from the gravy, 
dry, and put them into pots thatwill just fit one or 



POULTRY. 83 

two ; the former, where there are not many. Melt 
the former butter with some more, so as to com- 
pletely cover the birds : but take care not to oil it. 
Do not let it be too hot. 

To roast Widgeon, Duck, Teal, or Moorhen. 

The flavour is best preserved without stuffing ; 
but put some pepper, salt, and a bit of butter in the 
birds. Wild fowl require to be much less done 
than tame, and to be served of a fine colour. 

The basting ordered in the foregoing receipt 
takes off a fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes 
have. Send up a very good gravy in the dish ; and 
on cutting the breast, half a lemon squeezed over, 
with pepper on it, improves the taste. 

Or stuff them with crumbs, a little shrecfronion, 
sage, pepper, and salt, but not a large quantity, 
and add a bit of butter. Slice an onion, and put in- 
to the drippingpan, with a little salt, and baste the 
fowls with it till three parts done ; then remove 
that, and baste with butter. They should come up 
finely frothed, and not be overdone. 

An excellent sauce under that article. 
Duck to boil. 

Choose a fine fat duck, salt it two days, then boil 
it slowly, and cover it with onion sauce made very 
white, and the butter melted with milk instead of 
water. 

To roast duck : stuff or not, and serve with gravy 

Duck Pie. 
Bone a full grown young duck, and a fine young 
fowl of a good size. Season them both well with 

K 



84 DOMESTIC COOKERY". 

mace, pepper, salt and allspice. Put the fowl with- 
in the cluck, and a calf's tongue that has been 
pickled red, and boiled, within the fowl. Make 
the whole to lie close. The skin of the legs and 
wings should be drawn inwards, that the body may 
He smooth, Put the birds into a raised pie, or 
small piedish, and cover it with a thickish paste. 
Bake in a slow oven to eat cold. 

The old Staffordshire raised pies were made as 
above, but a turkey was put over the duck, and a 
goose over that, forming a very large pie. 
Goose to Roast. 

After being carefully picked, the plugs of the 
feathers pulled out, and the hairs singed, let it be 
well washed, dried, and seasoned with onion, sage, 
pepper, and salt ; fasten it tight at the neck and 
vent, and roast it. 

When half done, let a narrow strip of paper be 
skewered on the breastbone. Baste it well, and 
observe to take it up the moment it is done, nicely 
frothed. When the breast rises, take off the paper, 
and observe to serve it before it fall, or it will be 
spoiled, and come to table flattened. Before it is 
cut up, cut the apron off', and pour in a wineglass 
of port wine and a teaspoonful of mustard. Cut 
the breast from one pinion to the other, if for a 
large party, without leaving meat to the wing- 
bone. 

Gravy, and apple sauce. 



POULTRY. 35 

Green Goose Pie. 

Bone two green geese, having first removed 
every plug, and singed them nicely. Wash them 
clean ; season high with salt, mace, pepper, and 
pimento : put one within the other, and press them 
close into your piedish ; put a good deal of butter 
over them, and bake with or without a crust : if 
the latter, a cover that will keep the steam in, 
must supply the place of a crust. It will keep long. 
Gib lee Pie. 

Stew duck or goose giblets, when nicely cleaned, 
with onion, black pepper, and a bunch of sweet 
herbs, till tender. Let them become cold ; then 
put them in the dish with two or three steaks of 
veal, beef, or mutton, especially if there are not 
giblets enough to make the sized pie that you 
wish. A little cup of cream, put in when baked, is 
a great improvement. Put the liquor in first. 

Stewed Giblets. 
As above, and add a little butter and flour. Serve 
with sippets, and cream just scalded in the sauce. 

Stewed Pigeons. 
- Let them be fresh, and carefully cropped> 
drawn, and washed, then let them soak half an 
hour : in the mean time cut a hard white cabbage 
into water in slices as for pickling ; drain it, 
and boil it in milk and water ; drain it again, 
then lay some of it at the bottom of a stewpan ; 
put the birds on it, being well seasoned, and cover 
them with the remainder ; put a little broth into 
them, and stew till quite tender, before you serve, 



$6 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Add some cream, and a little flour and butter ; 
give it one boil, and serve the cabbage round the 
pigeons. 

Another way. 

Stew in a good gravy, stuffed or not, and season 
well. Add a little mushroom catsup, or fresh 
mushrooms. 

To fiickle Pigeons. 

Bone the pigeons, turn the inside out, and lard 
it : season with Jamaica pepper pounded very fine, 
and a little salt : turn the inside outward again, 
and tie the neck and rump with thread : put them 
in boiling water, let them boil a minute or two to 
plump ; take them out, and dry with a cloth. The 
pickle must be made of an equal quantity of wine, 
and white wine vinegar ; white pepper, Jamaica 
pepper, sliced nutmeg, ginger, and two or three 
bayleavts boiled. When it boils, put the pigeons 
into it, and let them boil fifteen minutes, if small ; 
twenty, if large. Then take them out, wipe, and 
let them cool. When the pickle is cold, take off 
the fat, and put them in. 

They must be kept in a stonejar, tied down 
with a bladder to exclude the air. You may in 
some, instead of larding, put a stuffing of hard yelks 
of eggs, and marrow, in equal quantities, spices, 
and sweet herbs. 

Pigeons in Jelly, 

Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of 
veal has been boiled, as likewise a calf's foot, or else 



POULTRY. 87 

simmer some isinglass in it, a blade of mace, an 
onion, a bunch of herbs, some lemonpeel, white 
pepper, and salt. When the pigeons are nicely 
cleaned and soaked, put them in a pan, and pour 
the liquor over them ; and let them be baked, and 
remain in it till cold. When served, put jelly over 
and round them. Season them as you approve. 
Potted Pigeons. 

Take fresh ones : clean them carefully : season 
with pepper and salt : put them close in a small pan f 
and pour butter over : bake, and when cold take 
them out. Put into fresh pots, fit to serve to table, 
two or three in each, and pour butter over, using 
that which was baked with them as part. Observe, 
that it is nectssary to put a good deal of butter if 
to be kept. 

JVbte. Butter that has covered potted things is 
good for basting, and will make very good paste 
for meatpies. If to be high, add some mace, and 
a few Jamaica peppers to the seasoning. 
Pigeon Pie. 

Clean as before : season ; and- if approved, put 
some parsley into the birds, and a bit of butter, with 
pepper and salt. Lay a beefsteak at the bottom of 
the dish, and hard eggs between each two birds, 
and a little water. If you have ham in the house, 
lay a slice on each : it is a great improvement to 
the flavour. 

Observe, when you cut ham for sauce or pies, 
to turn it, and take from the underside instead of 
tjie prime. 

h2 



88 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Broiled Pigeons. 

' Slit them down the back : season, and broil. 

Serve with mushroom sauce ; or melted butter, 

with a little mushroom catsup. 

Roast Pigeons. 

Should be stuffed with uncut parsley, seasoned ; 
and served with parsley and butter. Asparagus, 
or peas, should be dressed to eat with them. 
Parsley Pie. 

Lay veal or fowl at the bottom of a pie dish, 
seasoned. Take a colander full of picked parsley, 
cover the meat with it, and pour some cream into 
the dish, and a spoonful or two of broth. Cover 
with crust. 

Potatoe Pasty. 

Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possi- 
ble ; then mix pepper, salt, and a little thick cream, 
or, if you prefer it, butter. Make a paste, and, 
rolling it out like a large puff, put the potatoe into 
it, and bake it. 

Turnip, Pie. 

Season mutton chops with pepper and salt : lay 
them in the bottom of a dish, reserving the ends of 
the bones to lay over the turnifis ; which cut and 
season, and lay over the steaks till the dish be full. 
Put two or three spoonfuls of water in, and cover 
with crust. You may add a little onion. 
Shrimfi Pie. Excellent. 

Take a quart of picked shrimps : if very salt, 
only season with mace, and a clove or two in fine 
powder ; but if not salt, mince two or three ancho- 



pies. 89 

i 

vies, mix with the spice, and season them. Put 

some butter at the bottom of the dish, and over 
the shrimps, and a glass of sharp white wine. Put 
a good light paste over. They do not require long 
baking. 

Cornish Pies. 

Scald and blanch some broad beans : cut mush- 
rooms, carrots, turnips, and artichoke bottoms, and 
with some peas, and a little onion, make the whole 
into a nice stew, with some good veal gravy. Bake 
a crust over a dish, with a little lining round the 
evlge, and a cup within to keep it from sinking : 
open the lid, and put in the fricassee made hot ; 
seasoning to your taste. Shalots, parsley, lettuce, 
celery, or any sort of vegetables that you like, may 
be added. 

Fish Pie. 

Put slices of cod that have been salted a night ; 
pepper, and between each layer put a good quan- 
tity of parsley picked from the stalks, and some 
fresh butter. Pour a little broth, if you have any, 
or else a little water. Bake the pie ; and when to 
be served, add a quarter of a pint of raw cream 
warm, with half a teaspoonful of flour. Oysters 
may be added. 

Mackarel will do well ; but do not salt it till used. 

Soals, with oysters, seasoned with pounded mace, 
nutmeg, pepper, an anchovy, and some salt, make 
an excellent pie. Put in the oyster liquor, two or 
three spoonfuls of broth, and some butter, for 
gravy. When come from the oven, pour in a cup 
of thick cream, 



90 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

To prepare Meat or Fowls for raised Pies. 

When washed, put a good seasoning of spices 
and salt. Set it over a fire in a stewpan, that will 
just hold the meat : put a piece of butter, and, 
covering close, let it simmer in its own steam till 
it shrink. It must be cool before it be put into the 
pie. Chicken's sweetbreads, giblets, pigeon's meat, 
almost any thing will make a good pie, if well 
seasoned, and made tender by stewing. A force- 
meat may be put under and over, of cold chicken 
or veal, fat bacon, shred ham, herbs, bread, and 
seasoning, bound with an egg or two, or in balls. 
Or instead of crust, use an earthen pie form. 
Hares, 

If old, should be larded with bacon, after having 
hung as long as they will keep, and being first 
soaked in pepper and vinegar. 

If not paunched as soon as killed, hares are more 
juicy : but as that is usually done in the field, the- 
cook must be careful to wipe it dry every day ; the 
liver being removed, and boiled to keep for the 
stuffing. 

Parsley put into the belly will help keep it fresh. 

When to be dressed, the hare must be well 
soaked ; and if the neck and shoulders are bloody, 
in warm water : then dry it, and put to it a large 
fine stuffing, made of the liver, an anchovy, some 
fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, spice, and bread 
crumbs, with an egg to bind it. Sew it up. Ob- 
serve that the ears are nicely cleaned and singed. 
When half roasted, cut the skin off the neck to let 



MEATS. 91 

out the blood, which afterwards fixes there. Baste 
with milk till three parts done, then with butter : 
and before served, froth it up with flour. It should 
be put down early, kept at a great distance at first 
from the fire, and drawn nearer by degrees. 

Send a rich brown gravy in the dish ; melted 
butter in one boat, and currantjelly in another. 
To jug an old Hare. 

After it is well cleaned and skinned, cut it up 
and season it with pepper, allspice, salt, pounded 
mace, and a little nutmeg : put it into a jar, with an 
onion, a clove or two, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 
over all a bit of coarse beef. Tie it down with a 
bladder and leather quite close, and put the jar into 
a saucepan of water up to its neck, but no higher. 
Let the water boil gently five hours. When to be 
served, pour the gravy into a saucepan, and thick- 
en it with butter and flour ; or if become coldj 
warm the hare with the gravy. 

Hare Sou/i. See Soaps. 
Hare Pie. 

Season the hare after it is cut up. Put eggs 
and forcemeat, and either bake in a raised crust or 
a dish : if in the former, put cold jelly gravy to it ; 
if for the latter, the same hot ; but the pie is to be 
eaten cold. See Jelly Gravy among similar articles. 

Potted Hare. 
Having seasoned, and baked it with butter over, 
cover it with brown paper, and let it grow cold. 
Then take the meat from the bones, beat it in a 



92 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

mortar, and add salt, mace, and pepper, if not high 
enough ; a bit of fresh butter melted, and a spoon- 
ful of the gravy that came from the hare when 
baked. Put the meat into small pots, and cover it 
well with butter warmed. The prime should be 
baked at the bottom of the pot. 

Broiled Hare and hashed. 

The flavour of broiled hare is particularly fine. 
The legs or wings peppered and salted first, and 
Avhen done, rubbed with cold butter. 

The other parts warmed with the gravy and a 
little stuffing. 

Babbits 

May be eaten various ways. 

Roasted with stuffing and gravy. 

Ditto without stuffing ; and with liver, parsley, 
and butter : seasoned with pepper and salt. 

Boiled, and smothered with onion sauce ; the but- 
ter being melted with milk instead of water. 

Fried, and served with dried or fried parsley, 
and liver sauce as above. 

Fricasseed, as directed for chickens. 

Made into Pies, as chickens, with forcemeat, Sec. 
are excellent, when young. 

To make Rabbit taste much like Hare. 

Choose a young fullgrown one : hang it, with 
the skin on, two or three days : skin, and lay it un- 
washed in a seasoning of black and Jamaica pep- 
pers, in fine powder, putting some port wine into 
the dish, and baste it occasionally for forty hours : 



MEATS. 93 

then stuff and roast it as hare, and with the same 
sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that it lay in. 
Potted Rabbit. 
Cut up and season three or four after washing 
them. The seasoning must be mace, pepper, salt, 
a little Cayenne, and a few pimentos in finest pow- 
der. Pack them as close as possible in a small 
pan, and make the surface smooth. Keep out 
the carcasses, having taken all the meat off them, 
and, putting a good deal of butter over the rabbits, 
bake them gently. Let them remain a day or two, 
then remove into potting pans ; and add some fresh 
butter to that which already covers them. 

SOUPS. 

Giblet Sou/i. 
Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or 
duck giblets ; then set them on to stew with a scrag 
of mutton, or a pound of gravy beef, or bone of 
knuckle of veal, an oxtail, or some shankbones of 
mutton ; three onions, a blade of mace, ten pepper- 
corns, two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two 
quarts of water. Simmer till the gizzards are quite 
tender, which must be cut in three or four parts ; 
then put in a little cream, a spoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth with it, and a spoonful of mushroom catsup ; 
or two glasses of sherry or Madeira wine instead 
of cream, and some Cayenne. 

Tumi f i Sou ft. 
Stew down a knuckle of veal : strain, and let the 
broth stand still next day ; take off tue fat and 



94 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

sediment, and warm it, adding turnips cut in small 
dice : stew till they are tender : put a bit of pound- 
ed mace, white pepper, and salt. Before you serve, 
rub down halt a spoonful of flour, with half a pint of 
cream, and boil with the soup : pour it on a roll in 
the tureen ; but it should have soaked a little first 
in the soup, which should be as thick as middling 
cream. 

Old Peas Soufi. 
Save the water of boiled pork or beef : if too salt, 
use only a part, and the other of plain water : or put 
some roast beef bones, or a ham or bacon bone to 
give a relish ; or an anchovy or two. Set these on 
with some good whole or split peas, the smaller 
quantity of water at first the better : simmer till the 
peas will pulp through a colander ; then set that, 
and some more of the liquor, besides what boiled 
the peas, some carrots, turnips, celery, and onion, 
or a leak or two, to stew till all be tender. Celery 
will take less time, and may be put in an hour be- 
fore dinner. When ready, put fried bread in dice, 
dried mint rubbed small, pepper, and, if wanted, 
salt, in the tureen, and pour the soup upon them. 

Green Peas Soufi. 
In shelling, divide the old from the young, and 
putthe for mer, with a bit of butter, and a little wa- 
ter into a stewpan, and the old parts of lettuce, an 
onion or two, a little pepper and salt. Simmer till 
the peas will pulp through a colander ; which when 



soups. 95 

done, add to it some more water, and that which 
boiled the peas, the best parts of the lettuce, and 
the young peas, a handful of spinach cut small, 
pepper, and salt to taste. Stew till the vegetables 
are quite tender ; and a few minutes before serv- 
ing, throw in some green mint, cut fine. 

Should the soup be too thin, a spoonful of rice- 
flour, rubbed down with a bit of butter, and boiled 
with it, will give it consistence. 

Note. If soup or gravy be too weak, the cover 
of the saucepan should be taken off, and the steam 
let out, boiling it very quick. 

When there is plenty of vegetables, green peas 
soup needs no meat : but if approved, a pig's foot, 
or a small bit of any sort, may be boiled with the 
old peas, and removed into the second process till 
the juices shall be obtained. Observe, three or 
four ounces of butter, will supply richness to a soup 
without meat, or make it higher with it. 
Gravy Soufi. 

Wash a leg of beef, break the bone, and set it 
over the fire with five quarts of water, a large 
bunch of herbs, two onions, sliced and fried, but not 
burnt, a blade or two of mace, three cloves, twenty 
Jamaica peppers, and forty black. Simmer till the 
soup be as rich as you choose ; then strain off the 
meat, which will be fit for the servants' table. Next 
day take off the cake of fat, and that will warm 
with vegetables ; or make a piecrust for the same. 
Have ready such vegetables as you choose to serve> 



96 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

cut in dice, carrot, and turnip, sliced, and simmer 
till tender. Celery should be stewed in it likewise ; 
and before you serve, boil some vermicelli long 
enough to be tender, which it will be in fifteen min- 
utes. Add a spoonful of soy, and one of mushroom 
catsup. Some people do not serve the vegetables, 
only boil for the flavour. A small roll should be 
made hot, and kept long enough in the saucepan to 
swell, and then be sent up in the tureen. 

A rich White Soup. 

Boil in a small quantity of water a knuckle oi 
veal, and scrag of mutton, mace, white pepper, two 
or three onions, and sweet herbs, the day before 
you want the soup. Next day take off the fat, and 
put the jelly into a saucepan, with a quarter of a 
pound of sweet almonds blanched, and beaten to a 
paste in a mortar with a little water to prevent 
oiling, and put to it a piece of stale white bread, or 
crumb of a roll, a bit of cold veal, or white of chicken. 
Beat these all to a paste with the almond paste, and 
boil it a few minutes with a pint of raw thick cream, 
a bit of fresh lemonpeel, and half a blade of mace 
pounded ; then add tkis thickening to the soup. 
Let it boil up and strain it into the tureen : if not 
salt enough, then put it in. If macaroni or vermi- 
celli be served, they should be boiled in the soup, 
and the thickening be strained after being mixed 
with a part. A small rasped roll may be put in. 

Instead of the cream thickening, as above, 
ground rice, and a little cream may be used. 



soups. 97 

Afilainer White Soufi. 

Of a small knuckle of veal, two or three pints of 
soup may be made, with seasoning as before, and 
both served together, with the addition of a quarter 
of a pint of good milk. 

An excellent Sou ft. 

A scrag or knuckle of veal, slices of undressed 
gammon, onions, mace, and a small quantity of 
water, simmered till very strong, and lower it with 
a good beef broth made the day before, and stewed 
until the meat is done to rags. Add cream, vermi- 
celli, almonds as before, and a roll. 
Carrot Soufi, 

Put some beef bones, with four quarts of the 
liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been 
boiled, two large onions, one turnip, pepper and salt, 
into a saucepan, and stew for three hours. Have 
ready six large carrots, cut thin after they are 
scraped ; strain the soup on them, and stew till 
soft enough to pulp through a hairsieve or coarse 
cloth : then boil the pulp with the soup ; which is 
to be as thick as peassoup. Use two wooden spoons 
to rub the carrots through. Make the soup the day 
before it is to be used. Add Cayenne. 
Onion Soufi. 

To the water that has boiled a leg or neck of 
mutton, put carrots, turnips, and, if you have one, 
a shankbone, and simmer till the juices are obtain- 
ed. Strain it on six onions previously sliced, and 
fried a light brown ; with which simmer it three 
hours. Skim it carefully, and serve it. Put into it 
a little roll or fried bread. 



98 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Vegetable Soufi. 

Pare and slice five or six cucumbers, the inside 
of as many cos lettuces, a sprig or two of mint, two 
or three onions, some pepper and salt, a pint and 
half of young peas, and a little parsley. Put these, 
with half a pound of fresh butter, into a saucepan to 
stew in their own liquor near a gentle fire half an 
hour ; then pour two quarts of boiling water to the 
vegetables, and stew them two hours : rub down a 
little flour into a teacup of water ; boil it with the 
rest fifteen or twenty minutes, and serve it. 
Another Vegetable Soufi. 

Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six 
carrots, and four turnips : fry them in half a pound 
of butter : pour on them four quarts of boiling water, 
and toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as pos- 
sible, but do not burn it : put that, some celery, 
sweet herbs, white pepper and salt, to the above : 
stew gently four hours, strain through a coarse 
cloth : have ready sliced carrot, celery, and a little 
turnip, and add to your liking ; and stew them ten- 
der in the soup. If approved, you may add an 
anchovy, and a spoonful of catsup. 
Sfiinach Soufi. 

Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two 
onions, a head of celery, two carrots, and a little 
thyme and parsley. Put all into a stewpot, with 
a bit of butter the size of a walnut, and a pint of 
broth, or the water in which meat has been boiled ; 
stew till the vegetables are quite tender : work 
them through a Coarse cloth or sieve with a spoon ; 



SOtTFS. 99 

then with the pulp of the vegetables, and liquor, a 
quart of fresh water, pepper and salt, boil all 
together. Have ready some suet dumplings, the 
size of a walnut, and before you put the soup 
into the tureen, put them into it. The suet must 
not be shred too fine ; and take care that it is per- 
fectly fresh. 

Scotch Leek Sou/i. 

Put the boiling of a leg of mutton into a stew pot, 
with a quantity of chopped leeks, and pepper and 
salt ; simmer them an hour, then mix some oat- 
meal with a little cold water quite smooth, pour it 
into the soup, and setting it on a slow part of the 
fire, let it simmer gently ; but take care that it does 
not burn to the bottom. 

Hare Soup. 

Take an old hare that is good for nothing else 
than soup, cut in pieces, and put it with a pound 
and a half of lean beef, two or three shankbones 
of mutton well cleaned, a slice of lean bacon or 
ham ; an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs : pour 
on it two quarts of boiling water : cover the jar, in 
which you put these, with bladder and paper, and 
set it in a kettle of water : simmer till the hare is 
stewed to pieces : strain off the liquor, and give it 
one boil, with an anchovy cut in pieces, and add a 
spoonful of soy, and a little Cayenne and salt. A 
few fine forcemeat balls, fried of a good brown, 
should be served in the tureen. 

L 2 

V6t£ 



100 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Scotch Mutton Broth. 

Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour: cut 
off the scrag, and put into a stewpot with two 
quarts of water : as soon as it boils, skim it well 
and simmer it an hour and a half; then take the 
best end of the mutton, cut it into pieces, two bones 
in each, and put as many as you think proper, hav- 
ing cut off some of the fat. Skim it the moment 
the fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of an 
hour. Have ready four or five carrots, the same 
of turnips, and three onions, all cut, but not 
small, and put in time enough to be quite tender ; 
two large spoonfuls of Scotch barley, first wetted 
with cold water. The meat should stew three 
hours. Salt to taste, and serve all together. Twen- 
ty minutes before serving, put in some chopped 
parsley. 

It is an excellent winter dish. 

Sou/is under the articles of their respective Meats. 
Oxcheek Soup. Hessian Soup. Mock turtle, 
page 49 to 52. 

Oxramfi Sou/i. 
Two or three rumps of beef, will make it strong- 
er than a much larger proportion of meat without ; 
and form a very nourishing soup. 

Make it like gravy soup, and give it what flavour 
or thickening you like. 

Soufi A-la-safi. 
Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, one pound 
of beef sliced thin, one pint of greypeas, one onion, 
and three ounces of rice, in six pints of water to 



soups. 101 

five ; strain it through a colander, then pulp the 
peas to it, and turn it into a saucepan again, with 
two heads of celery sliced : stew it tender, adding 
pepper and salt ; and when you serve, fried bread. 
Crawfish or Prawn Soufi. 

Boil six whitings, and a large eel ; or the latter, 
and half a thornback, being well cleaned, with as 
much water as will cover them. Skim clean, and 
put in whole pepper, mace, ginger, parsley, an 
onion, a little thyme, and three cloves. Boil to a 
mash. Pick fifty crawfish, or a hundred prawns, 
pound the shells, and a little roll, after having^boiled 
them with a little water, vinegar, salt and herbs. 
Pour this liquor over the shells in a sieve, then 
pour the other soup, clear from the sediment ; chop 
a lobster, and add to it, with a quart of good beef 
gravy. Add the tails of the crawfish or the prawns, 
and some flour and butter ; and season as necessary. 
Portable Soup. A very useful thing. 

Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two 
shins of beef, and a pound or more of fine juicy 
beef, in as much water only as will cover them. 
When the bones arc cracked, out of which take 
the marrow, put any sort of spice you like, and 
three large onions. When the meat is done to 
rags, strain it off, and put in a -very cold place. 
When cold, take off the cake of fat (which will 
make crust for servants' pies), put the soup into a 
double bottom tin saucepan, set it on a pretty quick 
fire, but do not let it burn. It must boil fast, and un- 
covered, and be stirred constantly for eight hour§>. 



102 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Put into a pan, and let it stand in a cold place a day; 
then pour it into a round soup China dish, and set 
the dish into a stewpan of boiling water on a stove, 
and let it boil, and be occasionally stirred, till the 
soup become thick and ropy ; then it is enough. 
Pour it into the little round part at the bottom of 
cups or basons to form cakes ; and when cold, turn 
them out on flannel to dry, and wrap them in it. 
Keep them in tin canisters. WJfien to be used, 
melt in boiling water : and if you wish the flavour 
of herbs or any thing else, boil it first, and having 
strained the water, melt the soup in it. 

This is very convenient for a bason of soup or 
gravy in the country, or at sea, where fresh meav 
is not always at hand. 

Clear Gravy. 

Slice beef thin : broil a part of it, over a very 
clear quick fire, just enough to give colour to the 
gravy, but not to dress it : put that, and the raw 
into a very nicely tinned stewpan, with two onions, 
a clove, or two Jamaica and black peppers, and a 
bunch of sweet herbs: cover it with hot water; give 
it one boil, and skim it well two or three times i 
then cover it and simmer till quite strong. 
To draw Gravy (fiat will keep, a week. 

Cut thin lean beef: put it in a fryingpan without 
any butter : set it on a fire covered, but take care 
it does not burn : let it stay till all the gravy that 
comes out of the meat be dried up into it again ; 
then put as much water as will cover the meat? 



GRAVIES. 103 

and let that stew away. Then put to the meat a 
small quantity of water, herbs, onions, spice, a bit 
of lean ham : simmer till it is rich, then keep it in 
a cool place. Remove the fat only when going to 
be used. 

A rich Gravy. 

Cut beef in thin slices, according to the quantity 
wanted : slice onions thin, and flour both : ' fry 
them of a light pale brown, but on no account suf- 
them to go black : put them into a stewpan, and 
pouring boiling water on the browning in the fry- 
ingpan, boil it up, and pour on the meat. Put to 
it a bunch of parsley, thyme, savory, and a small 
bit of knotted marjorum, and the same of tarragon, 
some mace, Jamaica and black peppers, a clove or 
two, and a bit of ham or gammon. Simmer till 
you have all the juices of the meat ; and be sure to 
skim the moment it boils, and frequently after. If 
for a hare, or stewed fish, anchovy should be added. 

The shankbones of mutton are a great improve- 
ment to the richness of the gravy ; being first well 
soaked, and scowered clean. 

Note. Jelly gravy for cold pies should be brown 
or white, as the meat or fowl is. It must be drawn 
without frying, relished, and made quite clean, by 
running it through a flannel bag. To give it the 
consistence ef jelly,, shanks, or knuckle, or feet, 
should be boiled with the bones. 

Jelly to cover cold Pith. 

Clean a maid : put it with three quarts of water, 
an ounce and a half of isinglass, a bit of mace, 



104 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

lemonpeel, white peppers, a stick of horseradish, 
and a little ham or gammon. Stew, till on trying 
with a spoon you find that it jellies : then strain it 
off, and add to it the whites of five eggs, a glass of 
sherry wine, and the juice of a lemon ; give it an- 
other boil, and pour it through a jellybag till quite 
transparent. 

When cold, lay it over the fish with a spoon. 
Cullis, or brown Sauce. 
Lay as much lean veal over the bottom of a stew- 
pan as will cover it an inch thick : then cover the 
veal with thin slices of undressed gammon, two or 
three onions, two or three bayleaves, some sweet 
herbs, two blades of mace, and three cloves. Cover 
the stewpan, and set it over a slow fire. When the 
juices come out, let the fire be a little quicker. 
When the meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with 
good beef broth, boil and skim it, then simmer an 
hour : add a little water, mixed with as much flour 
as will make it properly thick : boil it half an hour, 
and strain it. 

This will keep a week. 

Veal Gravy. 
Make as directed for the cullis, leaving out the 
spice, herbs, and flour. It should be drawn very 
slowly : and if for white dishes, do not let the meat 
brown. 

Bechamel or White Sauce. 
Cut lean veal in small slices, and the same quan- 
tity of lean bacon or ham : put them in a stewpan, 



SAUCE. 105 

with a good piece of butter, an onion, a blade of 
mace, a few mushroom buttons, a bit of thyme, and 
a bayleaf. Fry the whole over a very slow fire, 
but not to brown it : add flour to thicken ; then 
put an equal quantity of good broth, and rich cream. 
Let it boil half an hour, stirring it all the time : 
strain it through a soup strainer. 

N. B. Soups and gravies are farbetter by putting 
the meat at the bottom of the pan, and stewing it, 
and the herbs, roots, &c. with butter, than by add- 
ing the water to the meat at first ; and the gravy 
that is drawn from the meat, should be nearly 
dried up before the water is put to it. Do not use 
the sediment of gravies, 8cc. that have stood to be 
cold. When onions are strong, boil a turnip with 
them, if for sauce, which will make them mild. 
Sauce for Wild Fowl. 

Simmer ten minutes a teacupful of port wine, 
the same of good meat gravy, a little shalot, a little 
pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of mace : 
put a bit of butter and flour : give one boil, and 
pour through the birds ; which in general are not 
stuffed as tame, but may be done so, if liked. 
Another for the same^ or Ducks. 

Serve a rich gravy in the dish : cut the breast in 
slices, but do not take them off ; cut a lemon, and 
put pepper and salt on it ; then squeeze it on the 
breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy over before 
you help. 



106 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Note. In cutting up any wild fowl, duck, goose, 
or turkey for a large party, if you cut the slices 
down from pinion to pinion, without making wings, 
there will be more prime pieces. 

Sauce Robartfor Rumfis or Steaks. 

Put into a saucepan a piece of butter the size of 
an eg£; : set it over the fire, and when browning, 
throw in a handful of sliced onions cut small : fry 
them brown, but do not let them burn : add half a 
spoonful of flour, shake the onions in it, give another 
fry, then put four spoonfuls of gravy, pepper, and 
salt, and boil gently ten minutes. Skim off the fat : 
add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a spoonful of 
vinegar, and half a lemon juice : boil, and pour 
round the steaks, which should be of a fine yellow 
brown, and garnished with fried parsley and lemon. 

An Excellent Sauce for Carp, or boiled Turkey. 

Rub half a pound of butter with a teaspoonful of 
flour ; put to it a little water, melt it, and add near a 
quarter of a pint of thick cream, and half an anchovy 
chopped fine, unwashed ; set it over the fire, and 
as it boils up, add a large spoonful of real India soy. 
If that does not give it a fine colour, put a little 
more. Turn it into the saucetureen, and put some 
salt, and half a lemon. Stir it well to prevent curdling. 
Sauce for cold Fowl or Partridge. 

Rub down in a mortar the yelks of two eggs boiled 
hard, an anchovy, two dessert spoonfuls of oil, a 
little shalot, and a teaspoonful of mustard, (all 
should be pounded before the oil be added) then 
strain it. 



SAUCE. 107 

Vingarct for cold Fowl or Meat. 

Chop fine mint, parsley, and shalot, and add salt, 
oil, and vinegar. It may be poured over, or sent in 
a boat. 

Benton Sauce for hot or cold roast Beef. 

Grate, or scrape very fine, horseradish, a little 
made mustard, some pounded white sugar, and four 
large spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Serve in a saucer. 

To melt Butter. 

On a clean trencher, mix a little flour to a large 
piece of butter, in the proportion of a teaspoonful 
to a full quarter of a pound ; then put into a sauce- 
pan, and pour on it two large spoonfuls of hot wa- 
ter ; set it on the fire, and let it boil quick. You 
should stir it round one way, and serve it as soon 
as ready. 

On the goodness of this depends the look and 
flavour of every sauce in which it is put. 
Lobster Sauce. 

Pound the spawn, and two anchovies : pour on 
two spoonfuls of gravy : strain it into some butter 
melted as above ; then put in the meat of the lob- 
ster, give one boil, and add a squeeze of lemon. 
Another way. 

Leave out the anchovies and gravy, and do as 
above, with a little salt, and catsup, or not, as you 
like. Many prefer the flavour of the lobster and 
salt only. 

u 



108 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Shrimfi Sauce. 
If not picked at home, pour a little water over 
to wash, and put them to butter melted thick and 
smooth : give them one boil, and add the juice of 

lemon. 

Anchovy Sauce. 

Chop one or two without washing : put to some 
flour and butter, and a little drop of water : stir it 
over the fire till it boil once or twice. When the 
anchovies are good, they will be dissolved ; and the 
colour will be better than by the usual way. 
Fish Sauce without Butter. 

Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint of vine- 
gar, half a pint of water (which must not be hard) 
with an onion, half a handful of horseradish, and 
the following spices lightly bruised : four cloves, 
two blades of mace, and half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper. When the onion is quite tender, chop it 
small with two anchovies : and set the whole on 
the fire to boil for a few minutes, with a spoonful 
of catsup. Mean time, have ready and well beaten 
the yelks of three fresh eggs : strain ; mix in the 
liquor by degrees with them ; and when well mix- 
ed, set the saucepan over a gentle fire, keeping a 
bason in one hand, into which toss the sauce to and 
fro, shaking the saucepan over the fire, that the 
eggs may not curdle. Do not boil, only let the 
sauce be hot enough to give the thickness of melt- 
ed butter. 

Lemon Sauce. 

Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice^and 
put into melted butter ; give one boil, and pour 
over boiled fowls. 



SAUCE. 109 

Liver Sauce. 

Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do as 
above, with a very little pepper and salt, and some 
parsley. 

A very good Sauce, especially to hide the bad colour 
of Fowls. 

Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded 
parsley, and hard eggs : add salt, and mix with 
butter : boil up, and pour over the fowls. 

Or for roast rabbit. 

Egg Sauce. 

Boil the eggs hard, and cut them in small pieces: 
then put them to melted butter. 
Buttered Eggs. 

Beat four or five eggs, yelk and white together : 
put a quarter of a pound of butter in a bason and 
then put that in boiling water ; stir it till melted : 
then pour that butter and the eggs into a saucepan. 
Keep a bason in your hand : just hold the sauce- 
pan in the other over a slow part of the fire, shak- 
ing it one way ; as it begins to warm, pour it 
into a bason, and back ; then hold it again over 
the fire, stirring it constantly in the saucepan, and 
pouring it into *he bason, more perfectly to mix 
the egg and butter, until they shall be hot without 
boiling. 

Serve on toasted bread ; or in a bason to eat with 
salt fish or red herrings. 

Onion Sauce. 

Peel, and boil onions tender : squeeze the water 
from them ; then chop, and add butter that has 



110 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

been melted rich and smooth as before, but with a 
little good milk instead of water : boil up once, and 
serve for boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag, or knuc- 
kle of veal ; or roast mutton. 

Oyster Sauce. 

Save the liquor in opening, and boil with the 
beards, a bit of mace, and lemonpeel. Mean time 
throw the oysters into cold water, and drain it off. 
Strain the liquor, and put it into a saucepan with 
them, and as much butter, mixed with a little milk, 
as will make sauce enough ; a little flour being 
previously rubbed with it. 

Set them over the fire, stir all the time ; and 
when the butter has boiled once or twice, take 
them off, and keep the saucepan near, but not on 
the fire ; for if done too much, the oysters will be 
hard. Squeeze a little lemonjuice, and serve. 

If for company, a little cream is a great improve- 
ment. Observe the oysters will thin the sauce, and 
put butter accordingly. 

Bread Sauce. 

Boil a large onion, cut in four, with some black 
peppers, and milk, until the former be quite a pap. 
Pour the milk strained on grated white stale bread, 
and cover it. In an hour put it into a saucepan, 
with a good piece of butter, mixed with a little 
flour : boil the whole up together, and serve. 

Some people like the bread pulped through a 
colander before the butter be added. A large 
spoonful of cream improves it. 



SAUCE. Ill 

Little Eggs for Pies or Turtles. 

Boil three eggs hard : beat the yelks fine with 
the raw yelk of an eg^ ; then make up the paste 
into small eggs, and throw them into a little boiling 
water to harden. 

Fish Sauce A-la-Craster. 

Thicken a quarter of a pound of butter with 
flour, and brown it ; then put to it a pound of the 
best anchovies, cut small, six blades of pounded 
mace, ten cloves, forty black and Jamaica peppers, 
a few small onions, a faggot of sweet herbs ; name- 
ly, savory, thyme, basil, and knotted marjorum ; a 
little parsley, and sliced horseradish. On these 
pour half a pint of the best sherry wine, and a pint 
and a half of strong gravy : simmer all gently for 
twenty minutes ; then strain it through a sieve, 
and bottle it for use : the way of which, is to boil 
some of it in the butter, as melting. 
A very Jine Fish Sauce. 

Put into a very nice tin saucepan, a pint of fine 
port wine, one gill of mountain, half a pint of wal- 
nut catsup that is fine, twelve anchovies, and the 
liquor that belongs to them, one gill of walnut pic- 
kle, the rind and juice of a large lemon, four or 
five shalots, Cayenne to taste, three ounces of 
scraped horseradish, three blades of mace, and two 
teaspoonfuls of made mustard : boil gently, till the 
rawness go off, then put it in small bottles for use. 

Cork very close, and seal the top, 
m 2 



112 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Camfi Vinegar. 

Slice a large head of garlick, and put it into a 
widemouthed bottle, with half an ounce of Cayenne, 
two teaspoonfuls of real soy, two of walnut catsup, 
four anchovies chopped, a pint of vinegar, of cochi- 
neal enough to give the colour of lavender drops. 
Let it stand six weeks, then strain off quite clear, 
and keep in small bottles, sealed up. 
Lemon Pickle. 

Wipe six lemons : cut each into eight pieces: put 
on them a pound of salt, six large cloves of garlick, 
two ounces of horseradish, sliced thin ; likewise of 
cloves, mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of 
an ounce each, and two ounces of flour of mustard ; 
to these put two quarts of vinegar : boil a quarter 
of an hour in a well tinned saucepan, or which is 
better, do it in a strong jar, in a kettle of boiling 
water, or set the jar on the hot hearth till done. 
Set the jar by, and stir it daily for six weeks. Keep 
the jar close covered. Put into small bottles. 
Shalot Vinegar. 

Split six or eight shalots : put them into a quart 
bottle : fill it up with vinegar : stop it j and in a 
month it will be fit for use. 

Essence of Anchovies. 
Take a dozen of anchovies, chop them, and with- 
out the bone, but with some of their own liquor 
strained : add them to sixteen large spoonfuls of 
water : boil gently till dissolved, which will be in 
a few minutes. When cold, strain and bottle it. 



VINEGARS, fcfc. 113 

Mushroom Catsup.. 
Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them 
into an earthen pan, strew salt over, and stir them 
now and then for three days. Then let them stand 
for twelve, till there is a thick scum over. Strain, 
and boil the liquor with Jamaica and black peppers, 
mace, ginger, a clove or two, and some mustard' 
seed. When cold, bottle it, and tie a bladder over 
the cork. In three months boil it again with some 
fresh spice, and it will then keep a twelvemonth. 
Mushroom Catsufi, another way. 

Take a stewpan full of the large flap mushrooms, 
that are not wormeaten, and the skins and fringe of 
those you have picked ; throw a handful of salt 
among them, and set them by a slow fire. They 
will produce a great deal of liquor, which you must 
strain ; and put to it four ounces of shalots, two 
cloves of garlick, a good deal of pepper, ginger, 
mace, cloves, and a few bayleaves. Boil and skim 
very well. When cold, cork close. In two months 
boil it up again, with a little fresh spice, and a 
stick of horseradish, and it will then keep the year ; 
which mushroom catsup rarely does, if not boiled 
a second time. 

Walnut Catsufi of the Jinest sort. 

Boil a gallon of the expressed juice of walnuts 
when they are tender, and skim it well : then put 
in two pounds of anchovies, bones and liquor, ditto 
of shalots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of mace, ditto 
of pepper, and one clove of garlick. Let all sim- 
mer till the shalots sink ; then put the liquor inte 



114 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

a pan till cold. Bottle, and divide the spice to each. 
Cork closely, and tie a bladder over. 

It will keep twenty years, and is not good the 
first. Be very careful to express the juice at home ; 
for it is rarely unadulterated, if bought. 

Some people make liquor of the outside shell 
when the nut is ripe ; but neither the flavour nor 
colour is then so fine. 

Cockle Catsup. 

Open the cockles : scald them in their own li- 
quor : add a little water when the liquor settles, if 
you have not enough : strain through a cloth, then 
season with every savory spice ; and if for brown 
sauce, add port wine, anchovies, and garlick ; if for 
white, omit these, and put a glass of sherry wine, 
lemonjuice and peel, mace, nutmeg, and white 
pepper. If for brown, burn a bit of sugar for col- 
ouring. 

It is better to have cockles enough, than to add 
water ; and they are cheap. 

Mushroom Powder. 
Wash half a peck of large mushrooms while 
quite fresh, and free them from grit and dirt with 
flannel. Scrape out the black part clean, and do 
not use any that are wormeaten : put them into a 
stewpan over the fire without water, with two large 
onions, some cloves, a quarter of an ounce of mace, 
and two spoonfuls of white pepper, all in powder. 
Simmer and shake them, till all the liquor be dried 
up, but be careful they do not burn. Lay them on 
tins or sieves in a slow oven, till they are dry 



VINEGARS, &C. 115 

enough to beat to powder ; then put the powder 
in small bottles, corked and tied closely, and keep 
in a dry place. 

A teaspoonful will give a very fine flavour to 
any soup or gravy, or any sauce ; and it is to be add- 
ed just before serving, and one boil given to it after 
it is put in. 

To dry Mushrooms. 

Wipe them clean ; and of the large take out the 
brown, and peel off the skin. Lay them on paper 
to dry in a cool oven, and keep them in paper bags 
in a dry place. When used, simmer them in the 
gravy, and they will swell to near their former 
size. To simmer them in their own liquor till it 
dry up into them, shaking the pan, then drying on 
tin plates, is a good way, with spice or not, as above, 
before made into powder. 

Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place, 
or in paper. 

Sugar Vinegar. 

To every gallon of water, put two pounds of the 
very coarsest sugar : boil and skim thoroughly ; 
then put one quart of cold water for every gallon of 
hot. When cool, put into it a toast spread with yeast. 
Stir it nine days ; then barrel, and set it in a place 
where the sun will lie on it, with a bit of slate on the 
bunghole. 

When sufficiently sour, it may be bottled : or 
may be used from the cask, with a wooden spigot 
and faucet. 



116 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Gooseberry Vinegar. 
Boil spring water ; and when cold, put to every 
three quarts, a quart of bruised ripe gooseberries in 
a large tub. Let them remain sixty hours, stirring 
often : then strain through a hair bag, and to each 
gallon of liquor add a pound of the coarsest sugar. 
Put it into a barrel, and a toast and yeast, cover the 
bunghole with a bit of slate, &c. as above. The 
greater quantity of sugar and fruit, the stronger the 
vinegar. 

Wine Vinegar. 

After making raisin wine, when the fruit has 
been strained, lay it on a heap to heat : then to 
every hundred weight put fifteen gallons of water. 
Set the cask, and put yeast, &c. as before. 

As vinegar is so necessary an article in a family, 
and one on which so great a profit is made, a barrel 
or two might always be kept preparing, according 
to what suited. If the raisins of wine were ready, 
that kind might be made: if a great plenty of goose- 
berries made them cheap, that sort ; or if neither, 
then the sugar vinegar, so that the cask may not 
be left empty, and grow musty. 
Kitchen Pepper. 

Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger ; 
of cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica 
pepper, half an ounce of each ; ten cloves, and six 
ounces of salt. Keep it in a bottle. It is an agreea- 
ble addition to any brown sauces or soups. 

Spice in powder, kept in small bottles, close stopped, 
goes much further than when used whole. It must 



VINEGARS, fcfc. 117 

be dried before pounded ; and should be done in quan- 
tities that may be wanted in three or four months. 
Nutmeg need not be done ; but the others should be 
kept in separate bottles, with a little label on each. 

Broioning, to colour and flavour made dishes. 
Beat to powder four ounces of doubly refined su- 
gar: put it into a very nice iron fryingpan, with one 
ounce of fine fresh butter : mix it well over a clear 
fire, and when it begins to froth, hold it up higher. 
When of a very fine dark brown, pour in a small 
quantity of a pint of port wine, and the whole by very 
3low degrees, stirring all the time. Put to the above 
half an ounce of Jamaica, and the same of black pep- 
per, six cloves of shalots peeled, three blades of mace 
bruised, three spoonfuls of mushroom, and the same 
of walnut catsup, some salt, and the finely pared 
rind of a lemon. Boil gently fifteen minutes ; pour 
it into a bason till cold ; take off the scum, and 
bottle for use. 

To make Sfirats taste like Anchovies. 

Salt them well, and let the salt drain from them, 
In twenty four hours wipe them dry, but do not wash 
them. Mix four ounces of common salt, an ounce 
of bay salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of an 
ounce of sal prunel, and half a teaspoonful of cochi- 
neal, all in the finest powder. Sprinkle it among 
three quarts of the fish, and pack them in two stone 
jars. Keep in a cold place, fastened down with a 
bladder. 

These are pleasant on bread and butter : but have 
the best for sauce. 



118 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

To keep. Anchovies when the liquor dries. 
Pour on them beef brine. 

To keep, Capers. 

Add fresh vinegar, that has been scalded, and 
become cold ; and tie them close, to keep out the 
air. 

To make Mustard. 

Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by de- 
grees, with boiling water, to a proper thickness, 
rubbing it perfectly smooth : add a little salt, and 
keep it in a small jar, close covered ; and put only 
as much into the glass as will be used soon ; which 
should be wiped daily round the edges. 
Another way for immediate use. 

Mix the mustard with new milk by degrees, to 
be quite smooth, and add a little raw cream. It is 
much softer this way, is not bitter, and will keep 
Well. 

The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it 

is perhaps as cheap, being always ready : and if the 

pots are returned, three pence is allowed for each. 

A teaspoonful of sugar to half a pint of mustard, 

is a great improvement, and softens it. 

PICKLES. 
India. 
Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night : 
then scrape, slice, and lay it in salt in a pan till the 
other ingredients shall be ready. 

Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlick three 
days ; then put it in the sun to dry. Salt and dry 
long pepper in the same way. 



PICKLES. 119 

Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus : 

Quarter small white cabbages : salt three days : 
squeeze and set them in the sun to dry. 

Cauliflowers cut in their branches : take off the 
green from radishes : cut celery in three inch 
lengths : ditto French beans whole, likewise the 
shoots of alder, which will look like bamboo. Ap- 
ples and cucumbers, choose of the least seedy sort ; 
cut them in slices, or quarters, if not too large. All 
must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, ex- 
cept the latter ; over which you must pour boiling 
vinegar, and, in twelve hours, drain them, but no 
salt must be used. 

Put the spice, garlick, a quarter of a pound of 
mustardseed, and as much vinegar as you think en- 
ough for the quantity you are to pickle, into a large 
stonejar, and one ounce of turmeric to be ready 
against the vegetables shall be dried. When they 
are ready, observe the following directions : put 
some of them into a two quart stonejar, and pour 
over them one quart of boiling vinegar : next day 
take out those vegetables, and when drained, put 
them into a large stockjar, and boiling the vinegar, 
pour it over some more of the vegetables ; let them 
lie a night, and do as above. Thus proceed till 
you have cleansed each set from the dust which 
must inevitably fall on them by being so long in 
doing : then, to every gallon of vinegar, put two 
ounces of flour of mustard, mixing, by degrees, 
with a little of it boiling hot. The whole of the 
vinegar should have been previously scalded, but 

V N 



120 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

left to be cool before put to the spice. Stop the jar 
tight. 

This pickle will not be ready for a year ; but you 
may make a small jar for eating in a fortnight, by 
only giving them one scald in water, after salting 
and drying as above, but without the preparative 
vinegar ; then pour the vinegar that has the spice 
and garlick, boiling hot over. If at any time it be 
found that the vegetables have not swelled properly, 
boiling the pickle, and pouring it over them hot, 
will plump them. 

English Bamboo, to Pickle. 
Cut the large young shoots of alder, which put 
out in the middle of May, (the middle stalks are 
most tender) peel off the outward peel, or skin, 
and lay them in salt and water, very strong, one 
night. Dry them piece by piece in a cloth. Have 
in readiness a pickle thus made and boiled. To a 
quart of vinegar put an ounce of white pepper, an 
ounce of sliced ginger, a little mace and pimento, 
and pour boiling on the alder shoots, in a stonejar : 
stop close, and set by the fire two hours, turning 
the jar often, to keep scalding hot. If not green 
when cold, strain, off the liquor, and pour boiling 
hot again ; keeping it hot as before. Or, if you 
intend to make Indian pickle, the above shoots are a 
great improvement to it : in which case you need 
only pour boiling vinegar andmustardseed on them ; 
and keep them till your jar of pickles shall be 
ready to receive them. 



PICKLES. 121 

Melon Mangoes. 
There is a particular sort for this purpose which 
the gardeners know. Cut a square small piece 
out of one side, and through that take out the 
seeds, and mix with them mustardseeds and shred 
garlick ; stuff" the melon as full as the space will 
allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up 
with a small new packthread. Boil a good quantity 
of vinegar, to allow for wasting, with peppers, salt, 
ginger, and pour boiling hot over the mangoes four 
successive days ; the last, put flour of mustard, 
and scraped horseradish into the vinegar just as it 
boils up. Stop close. Observe that there is plenty 
of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled if not well 
covered. Mangoes should be done soon after they 
are gathered. 

Pickled Onions. 

In the month of September, choose the small 
white round onions -, take off the brown skin ; have 
ready a very nice tin stewpan of boiling water ; 
throw in as many onions as will cover the top. As 
soon as they look clear on the outside, take them 
up as quick as possible with a slice, and lay them 
on a clean cloth, cover them close with another, 
and scald some more, and so on. Let them lie to 
be cold, then put them in a jar, or glass wide- 
mouth bottle, and pour over them the best white 
wine vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When 
cold, cover them. 



122 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Cucumbers and Onions sliced. 

Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them : 
next day drain them for five or six hours, then 
put them into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar over 
them, keeping in a warm place. The slices should 
be thick. Repeat the boiling vinegar, and stop 
instantly ; and so on till green. 

Pickled sliced Cucumbers, another 'way. 

Slice large unpared cucumbers, an inch thick ; 
slice onions, and put both into a broad pan : strew 
a good deal of salt among them. In twenty four 
hours drain them, and then lay them on a cloth to 
dry. Put them in small stonejars, and pour in the 
strongest plain vinegar, boiling hot : stop the jars 
close. Next day boil it again, and pour over, and 
thus thrice ; the last time add whole white pepper, 
and a little ginger. Keep close covered. 

Young Cucumbers. 
Choose nice young gherkins ; spread them on 
dishes ; salt them, and let them lie a week : drain 
them, and, putting them in a jar, pour boiling vin- 
egar over them. Set them near the fire, covered 
with plenty of vineleaves. If they do not become 
a tolerable good green, pour the vinegar into an- 
other jar, set it over the hot hearth, and when it 
boils, pour it over them again, covering with fresh 
leaves ; and thus do till they are of as good a colour 
as you wish : but as it is now known, that the very 
fine gren pickles are made so by using brass or 
bell metal vessels, which, when vinegar is put into 
them, become highly poisonous, few people like to 
eat them. 



PICKLES. 123 

Note. Acids dissolve the lead in the tinning of 
saucepans. Pickles should never be kept in glazed 
jars, but in stone or glass ; and vinegar, or any 
acids, should be boiled, by putting them in jars of 
stone, over a hot hearth, or in a kettle of water. 
To Pickle Walnuts. 

When they will bear a pin to go into them, put 
on them a brine of salt and water boiled, and strong 
enough to bear an c^^ being quite cold first. It 
must be well skimmed while boiling. Let them 
soak twelve days, then drain them, and pour over 
them in the jar a pickle of the best white wine 
vinegar, with a good quantity of pepper, pimento, 
ginger, mace, cloves, mustardseed, and horse- 
radish ; all boiled together, but cold. To every 
hundred of walnuts, put six spoonfuls of mustard- 
seed, and two or three heads of garlick, or shalot ; 
but the latter is least strong. 

Thus done, they will be good for several years, if 
kept close covered. The air will soften them. 
They will not be fit to eat under six months. 

The pickle will serve as good catsup, when the 
walnuts are used. 

Nasturtions, for Capers. 

Keep them a few days after they are gathered ; 
then pour boiling vinegar over them, and when 
cold, cover. 

They will not be fit to eat for some months ; but 
are then finely flavoured, and by many preferred 
to capers. 

n 2 



124 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

An excellent way to Pickle Mushrooms, to preserve 
the flavour. 

Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and 
salt ; and from the larger, take out the red inside, 
for when they are black they will not do, being too 
old. Throw a little salt over, and put them into a 
stewpan, with some mace, and pepper. As the 
liquor comes out, shake them well, and keep them 
over a gentle fire till all of it be dried into them 
again ; then put as much vinegar into the pan as 
will cover them ; give it one warm, and turn all 
into a glass or stonejar. They will keep two years, 
and are delicious. 

Red Cabbage. 

Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer 
with salt ; let it drain two days, then put it into a 
jar, and pour boiling vinegar enough to cover, and 
put a few slices of red beet root. Observe to choose 
the purple red cabbage. Those who like the fla- 
vour of spice, will boil it with the vinegar. Cauli- 
flower, cut in branches, and thrown in after being 
salted, will look of a beautiful red. 

To Stew Green Peas. 
Put a quart of pease, a lettuce, an onion, both 
sliced, a bit of butter, pepper, salt, and no more 
water than hangs round the lettuce from washing. 
Stew them two hours very gently. When to be 
served, beat up an egg, and stir into them, or a bit 
ef flour and butter. 



STEWS, &c. 125 

Some think a teaspoonful of white powdered 
sugar is an improvement. Gravy may be added ; 
but there will be less of the flavour of the peas. 
Chop a bit of mint, and stew in them. 
To stew Cucumbers. 
Slice them thick, or halve, and divide them in 
two lengths: strew some salt and pepper, and slice 
onions ; add a little broth, or a bit of butter. Sim- 
mer very slowly ; and, before serving, if no butter 
was in before, put some, and a little flour ; or if it 
was in, only a little flour, unless it wants richness. 
Ano<her ivay. 
Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers large ; 
flour and fry them in some butter : then pour on 
some good broth or gravy, and stew till enough. 
Skim off the fat. 

Stewed Onions. 
Peel six large onions : fry them gently of a fine 
brown, but do not blacken j then put them in a 
small stewpan, with a little weak gravy, pepper, 
and salt : cover and stew two hours gently. They 
should be lightly floured at first. 
Roast Onions 
Should be done with all the skins on. They eat 
well alone, with salt only, and cold butter ; or with 
roast potatoes, or with beetroots. 
Striked Celery. 
Wash, an^ strip off the outer leaves of six heads ; 
halve, or leave them whole according to their size ; ' 



126 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

cut them in four inch lengths. Put them in a 
stewpan with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy. 
Stew till tender ; then add two spoonfuls of cream* 
and a little flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, 
salt, and nutmeg, and simmer all together. 

Cauliflower in white Sauce. 

Half boil, then cut into handsome pieces, and 
lay into a stewpan, with a little broth, a bit of mace, 
a little salt, and a dust of white pepper. Simmer 
half an hour , then put a little cream, butter, and 
flour ; shake and simmer a few minutes, and serve. 

Spinach 

Should be very carefully picked and washed ; 
then boil, and squeeze it dry. Put it in a pan with 
a bit of butter, salt, and pepper ; stew it, and serve. 
French way. 

Clean as before ; then put it into a stewpan with- 
out water, a spoonful of gravy, and a lump of but- 
ter, salt, and pepper, and simmer till ready. If 
too moist, squeeze the gravy from it. 

Stewed Red Cabbage. 

Slice a small, or half a large red cabbage : wash 
it, and put into a saucepan, with pepper and salt, 
no water but what hangs about the former, and a 
piece of butter. Stew till quite tender ; then when 
going to serve, put to it half a cup of vinegar, and 
stir it over the fire. 

Serve for cold meat, or with sausages on it, 



SIEWS, &c, 127 

Stewed Mushrooms. 

Choose large buttons, or small flaps, before the 
fringe be turned black : pick each one separately, 
and observe there is not a bad one ; rub the former 
with a flannel and sail, skin the latter, and take out 
the fringe. Throw them into a stewpan, with a 
little salt, a piece of butter, and a few peppers ; set 
them on a slack part of the fire, and shake them 
sometime. When tender, add two large spoonfuls 
of cream, and a dust of flour. 

Stewed Sorrel for Frieandeau, and roast Meat. 

Wash the sorrel- and put it in a silver vessel, or 
stonejar, and no more water than hangs to the 
leaves. Simmer in the slowest way you can ; and 
when done enough, put a bit of butter, and beat it 
well. 

Stewed Carrots. 

Harf boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into 
a stewpan. Put to them half a teacup of any weak 
broth, some pepper, and salt, and half a cup of 
cream ; simmer to be very tender, but not broke. 
Before serving, rub the least flour with a bit of 
butter, and warm up with it. If approved, chopped 
parsley may be added ten minutes before served. 
Slewed old Peas. 

Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers, 
otherwise only half an hour; put them with water 
enough just to cover them, and a good bit of butter, 
or a piece of beef or pork. Slew in the most gentle 
way till the peas are soft, and the meat is tender. 



128 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

If not salt meat, add salt, and a little pepper, and 
serve round the meat. 

French Sallad. 

Chop three anchovies, a shalot, and some parsley 
small ; put them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard, and salt. 
When well mixed, add by degrees some cold roast 
or boiled meat in the very thinnest slices ; put in a 
few at a time, they being small, not exceeding two 
or three inches long ; shake them in the seasoning, 
and then put more ; cover the bowl close ; and 
let the sallad be prepared three hours before it be 
eaten. 

Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of the fat. 
Lobster Sallad. 

Make a sallad, and put some of the red part of 
the lobster to it, cut ; which forms a pretty contrast 
to the white and green of the vegetables. 

Do not put much oil, as shellfish take off the 
acidity of vinegar. 

Serve in a dish, not a bowl. 

To boil Potatoes. 

Set them on a fire, unpared, in cold water ; let 
them half boil, then throw some salt in, and a pint 
of cold water, and let them boil again till near 
done. Pour off the water, and put a clean cloth 
over them, and then the saucepan cover, and set 
them by the fire to steam till ready. Many use 
steamers. 



POTATOES, &fc. 129 

To broil Potatoes. 

Parboil, then slice and broil them ; or parboil, 
and set them whole on the gridiron over a very 
slow fire ; and when thoroughly done, send up with 
their skins on. The latter is done in many Irish 
families. 

To roast Potatoes. 

Half boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them 
of a beautiful brown. 

To fry Potatoes. 

Slice raw potatoes after the skin is removed, and 
fry either in butter, or thin batter. 
To mash Potatoes. 

Boil, peel, and break to paste the potatoes ; then, 
to two pounds, add a quarter of a pint of milk, and 
a little salt, with two or three ounces of butter, and 
stir all well over the fire. Serve thus, or brown 
the top, when placed on the dish in a form, with a 
salamander ; or in scollops. 

To mash Parsnips. 

Boil tender ; scrape them ; then mash into a 
stewpan, with a little cream, a good piece of butter, 
pepper, and salt. 

To keep Green Peas. 

Shell, and put them into a kettle of water when 
it boils : give them two or three warms only, and 
pour them into a colander. When the water drains 
off, turn them on a dresser covered with cloth ; 
pour them on another cloth to dry perfectly : then 
bottle them in widemouth bottles, leaving only 



130 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

room to pour clarified mutton suet upon them an 
inch thick, and for the cork ; rosin it down, and 
keep in a cellar, or in the earth, as ordered for 
gooseberries. Boil them, with a bit of butter, a 
spoonful of sugar, and. a bit of mint, till tender, 
when to be used. 

Another ivay, as practised in the Emficror of Russia's 
Kitchen . 

Shell, scald, and dry as above. Put them on tins 
or earthen dishes in a cool oven to harden, once or 
twice. Keep them in paper bags hung up in the 
kitchen. When to be used, let them lie an hour 
in water ; then se.t them on with cold water, and a 
bit of butter, and boil till ready. Put a sprig of 
dried mint to boil with them. 
To preserve French Beans, to eat in the Winter. 

Pick them young, and throw into a little wooden 
keg a layer three inches deep ; then sprinkle with 
salt : put another layer of beans, and do the same 
as high as you think proper, alternately with salt ; 
but do not be too liberal of the latter : lay a plate, 
or cover of wood that will go into the keg, and put 
on it a heavy stone. A pickle will rise from the 
beans and salt. If too salt, the soaking and boiling- 
will not be sufficient to make them pleasant to the 
taste. When to be eaten, cut, soak, and boil as 
when fresh. 

Potatoes should be kept in the earth that adheres 
to them when dug ; and preserved from frost. 

Carrots, parsnips, and turnips the same, and put 
in layers of dry sand. 



POTATOES, &fc. 131 

Small close cabbages laid on a stone floor before 
the frost sets in, will blanch and be very fine, after 
many weeks' keeping. 

To boil Vegetables Green, 

Be sure the water boils when you put them in ; 
when in, make them boil very fast. Do not cover, 
but watch them ; and if the water has not slacken- 
ed, you may be assured they are done when they 
are beginning to sink ; take them out immediately, 
or the colour will change. 

Small Dishes for Supper, &c. 

Boil eggs hard, cut them in half, take out the 
yelks, set the whites on a dish, and fill with the fol- 
lowing several ingredients ; or put a saucer upside 
down on a plate, and place them in quarters round : 
in either case as a salmagundi. Chopped veal, 
yelk of egg, beetroot, anchovy, apple, onion, ham, 
and parsley. A very small bit of the white of the 
egg must be cut off, to make it stand on the dish 
as a cup. 

Orange Butter. 

Boil six eggs hard : beat the yelks in a mortar 
with fine sugar, orange flower water, four ounces 
of butter, and two ounces of almonds beaten to a 
paste. When all is mixed, rub it through a col- 
ander on a dish. 

Roll butter in different forms; either like a pine, 

having made it in the shape of a cone, and marking 

it with a teaspoon ; or rolling in a crimping form, 

or working it through a colander. Serve with 

o 



132 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

scraped beef or anchovies, garnished with a wreath 
of curled parsley. 

Rusks buttered, and anchovies split and rolled. 

Grated hung beef on rusks buttered. 

Grated cheese on ditto, or in a plate. 

Radishes placed round a plate, and butter in the 
middle. 

French beans boiled of a beautiful green, and 
served with a cream sauce. 

Jerusalem artichokes or cauliflowers in ditto. 

Broccoli boiled, served on toast, to eat with 
poached eggs. 

Stewed vegetables. 

Eggs poached on toast or spinach. 

Eggs buttered on toast. 

Custards in cups or glasses, with toast in long 
sippets. 

Cold meat in slices on a dish, or as Sandwiches. 

Ham. Tongue. Collared things. Hunter's beef. 

Oysters cold, scolloped, stewed, or picl.led. 

Potted meat, birds, fish, or cheese. 

Pickled or baked fish. 

Common cake. Baked or stewed fruits. 

Pies of meat, fowl, or fruit. 

Potatoes roasted, boiled, scalloped, mashed, &c. 

Collared beef, veal, or pig's head. 

Lobsters. Crabs. Prawns. 

Sweetbreads. Small birds. 

Forcemeat for Patties^ Balls or Stuffing. 

Crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, fat bacon, (if 
it has been dressed it is the better,) suet, a bit of 



PASTRY. 133 

fresh butter, a little anchovy liquor, an egg, a bit of 
onion, a very little knotted marjorum, a little pep- 
per, salt, and nutmeg. 

This is a much admired mixture ; but, according 
to the purpose it is for, any addition may be made 
to the flavour. Cold ham or gammon, different 
herbs, anchovies, oysters, Cayenne. 

Note. To the above should have been added cold 
veal or chicken, which is a gre^t improvement. 
Some like lemon, and lemonthyme is a good sub- 
stitute. Tarragon gives a French flavour, but a 
very small proportion is sufficient. 
, Fried Patties. 

Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters ; mix 
with a few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and a very small bit of lemonpeel ; add the liquor 
of the oysters : warm all in a tosser, but do not boil. 
Let it go cold. Have ready a good puff paste, roll 
thin, and cut it in round or square bits. Put some 
of the above between two of them ; twist the edges 
to keep in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown. 

This is a very good thing ; and baked, is a fash- 
ionable dish. 

Oyster Patties. 
Put a fine puff paste into small pattypans, and 
a bit of bread in each ; and against they are baked, 
have ready the following to fill with, taking out the 
bread. Take off the beards of the oysters ; cut the 
other parts in small bits ; put them in a small tos- 
ser, with a grate of nutmeg, the least white pepper, 
and salt, a morsel of lemonpeel, cut so small that 



134 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

you can scarcely see it, a little cream, and a little 
of the oyster liquor. Simmer for a few minutes 
before you fill. 

Lobster Patties. 

Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, 
and the smallest bit of butter. 

Beef and veal patties, as likewise turkey and 
chicken, are under the several articles in the fore- 
going pages. 

Siveet Paliies. 

Chop the meat of a boiled calf's foot, of which 
you use the liquor for jelly, two apples, one ounce 
of orange and lemonpeel candied, and some fresh 
peel and juice : mix with them half a nutmeg 
grated, the yelk of an q^, a spoonful of brandy, 
and four ounces of currants washed and dried. 

Bake in small pattypans. 

Parties resembling Mincefiies. 

Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, or- 
ange and lernqnpeel candied, and fresh currants, a 
little wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, and 
a bit of sugar. Bake in puffpaste as before. 
Mincefiie. 

Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, 
weigh two pounds ; four pounds of suet picked and 
chopped ; then add six pounds of currants, nicely 
cleaned and perfectly dry, three pounds of chopped 
apples, the peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of 
sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of 
cloves, ditto mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder ; 



PASTRY. 



135 



press the whole into a deep pan when well mixed, 
and keep it covered in a dry cool place. 

Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very 
large family. 

Have citron, orange, and lemonpeel ready, and 
put some of each in the pies when made. 
Mincefiies, without Meat. 
Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and 
minced ; of fresh suet, and raisins stoned, each 
three pounds, likewise minced : to these add of 
mace and cinnamon a quarter of an ounce each, and 
eight cloves, in finest powder, three pounds of the 
finest powder sugar, three quarters of an ounce of 
salt, the rinds of four and juice of two lemons, half 
a pint of port wine, and the same of brandy. Mix 
well, and put into a deep pan. 

Have ready washed and dried four pounds of 
currants, and add as you make the pies, with candi- 
ed fruit. 

J^emon Mincefiies. 
Squeeze a large lemon : boil the outside till ten- 
der enough to beat to a mash : add to it three large 
apples chopped, four ounces of suet, half a pound 
of currants, and four ounces of sugar. Put the 
iuice of the lemon and candied fruit, as for other 
pies. Make a short crust, and fill the patty pans 
as usual. 

Egg Mincefiies. 
Boil six eggs hard, and shred them small : shred 
double the quantity of suet ; then put currants 
o 2 



136 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

washed and picked, one pound or more, if the eggs 
were large ; the peel of one lemon shred very fine, 
half the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, 
nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt, orange, lemon, 
and citron candied. Make a light paste for them. 
Savory Rice. 
Wash and pick some rice : stew it very gently 
in a small quantity of veal, or rich mutton broth, 
with an onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and salt. 
When swelled, but not boiled to mash, dry it on 
the shallow end of a sieve before the fire, and either 
serve it dry, or put it in the middle of a dish, and 
pour the gravy round, having heated it. 

Buttered Rice. 

Prepare some rice as above : drain, and put it 
with some new milk, enough just to swell it, over 
the fire. When tender, pour off the milk, and add 
a bit of butter, a little sugar, and pounded cinna- 
mon. Shake it, that it do not burn, and serve. 
Rice boiled to eat with Curry or roast Meats. 

Prepare as above ; then put it into a large quan- 
tity of water, boil it quick, throw in a little salt, and 
observe the very moment when it is swelled large, 
but not too much softened ; then drain off the 
water, and pour the rice on the shallow end of a 
sieve : set it before a fire, and let it stay until it 
separates and dries. Serve it without sauce of any 
kind. 

Omlet. 

Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little 
flour ; put to it chopped parsley, onions, or chives 



PASTRY/. 137 

(the latter is best) ; or a very small quantity of 
shalot, a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of 
nutmeg. Make some very nice dripping : boil in a 
small fryingpan, and pour the above batter into it. 
When one side is of a fine yellow brown, turn and 
do the other. Some scraped lean ham, put in at 
first, is a very pleasant addition. Three eggs will 
make a pretty sized omlet ; but many cooks will 
use eight or ten. 

If the taste t)e approved, a little tarragon gives 
a fine flavour. A good deal of parsley should be 
used. 

JRamakins. 

Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto 
of Gloucester cheese, ditto of good fresh butter ; 
then beat all in a mortar with the yelks of four 
eggs, and the inside of a small French roll boiled 
in cream till soft. Mix the paste then with the 
whites of the eggs previously beaten, and put into 
small paper pans made rather long than square, 
and bake* in a Dutch oven till of a fine brown. 
They should be eaten quite hot. 

Bacon Fraise. 
Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long ; 
make a batter of milk, well beaten eggs, and flour ; 
put a little lard or dripping into the pan, and when 
hot pour the batter in, and cover it with a dish. 
When fit to turn, put in the bacon, and turn it very 
carefully, that the bacon does not touch the pan. 



138 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Rich Puff Paste. 

Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much 
fine flour as you judge necessary ; mix a little of 
the former with the latter, and wet it with as little 
water as will make into a stiff paste. Roll it out, 
and put all the butter over it in slices ; turn in 
the ends, and roll it thin ; do this twice, and touch 
it no more than can be avoided. * The butter may 
be added at twice ; and to those who are not accus- 
tomed to make paste, it may be better to do so. 

A quicker oven than for short crust. 
A less rich Paste. 

Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound 
of butter ; rub them together, and mix into a paste 
with a little water, and an egg well beaten ; of the 
former as little as will suffice, or the paste will be 
tough. Roll, and fold it three or four times. 

Rub extremely fine, in one pound of dried flour, 
six ounces of butter, and a spoonful of white sugar. 
Work up the whole into a stiff paste, with as little- 
hot water as possible. 

German Puffs another way. 

Boil two ounces of fresh butter in half a pint of 
cream ; stir until cold ; then beat two eggs, strain 
them into the cream, and mix that by degrees into 
two table spoonfuls of flour : butter teacups, and 
into each put three spoonfuls of the batter ; bake 
them half an hour, and serve the moment they are 
to be eaten, turned out of the cups, with sauce 
of melted butter, sugar, and the juice of a lemon. 



FASTRY. 139 

Excellent short Crust. 

Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and 
shifted, quite dry ; then mix it with a pound of 
flour well dried ; rub into it three ounces of butter 
so fine as not to be seen : into some cream put the 
yelks of two eggs beaten, and mix the above into a 
smooth paste ; roll it thin, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Another. 

"Mix with a pound of fine flour, dried, an ounce 
of sugar pounded and sifted ; then crumble three 
ounces of butter in it, till it looks all like flour, and 
with a gill of boiling cream, work it up to a fine 
paste. 

Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes. 

Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth ; then 
mix it with as much water as will make three quar- 
ters of a pound of fine flour into a very stiff paste : 
roll it very thin, then lay the third part of half a 
pound of butter upon it in little bits : dredge it with 
some flour, left out at first, and roll it up tight. 
Roll it out again, and put the same proportion of 
butter ; and so proceed till all be worked up. 

Avery Jine Crust for Orange Cheesecakes or Sweet- 
meats, when to be particularly nice. 

Dry a pound of the finest flour, and mix with it 
three ounces of refined sugar ; then work half a 
pound of butter with your hand till it comes to a 
froth. Put the flour into it by degrees ; and work 
into it, well beaten, and strained, the yelks of three 
and whites of two eggs. If too limber, put some 



140 DOMESTIC COOKEHY. 

flour and sugar to make fit to roll. Line your patty- 
pans and fill. A little above fifteen minutes will 
bake them. Against they come out, have ready 
some refined sugar, beat up with the white of an 
egg, as thick as you can : ice them all over : set 
them in the oven to harden, and serve cold. Use 
fresh butter. 

Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust ; 
but if for mincepies, or any sweet thing, should be 
washed. 

Raised Crust for Custards or Fruit. 

Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with 
water ; and when it boils, pour it into as much 
flour as you choose, knead and beat it till smooth : 
cover it as on the other side. Raise it ; and if for 
custard, put a paper within to keep out the sides 
till half done, then fill with a cold mixture of milk, 
egg, sugar, and a little peachwater, lemonpeel, or 
nutmeg. By cold is meant that the egg is not to 
be warmed, b :t the milk should be warmed by it- 
self ; not to spoil the crust. 

Raised Crust for Meatfiies or Fowls, &c. 

Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal 
quantity of fresh dripping, or of butter, but not 
much of either. While hot, mix this with as much 
flour as you will want, making the paste as stiff as 
you can to be smooth, which you will make it by 
good kneading, and beating with the rolling pin. 
Wnen quite smooth, put it in a lump into a cloth, 
or under a pan to soak, till near cold. 



PASTRY. 141 

Those who have not a good hand at raising crust, 
may do thus : roll the paste of a proper thickness, 
and cut out the top and bottom of the pie, then a 
long piece for the sides. Cement the bottom to the 
sides with egg, bringing the former rather further 
out, and pinching both together ; put egg between 
the edges of the paste to make it adhere at the 
sides. Fill your pie, and put on the cover, and 
pinch it and the side crust together. The same 
mode of uniting the paste is to be observed, if the 
sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the paste 
must be baked, after it shall be filled and covered ; 
but in the latter case the tin should be buttered, 
and carefully taken off when done enough ; and as 
the form usually makes the sides of a lighter col~ 
our than is proper, the paste should be put into the 
oven again for a quarter of an hour. With a feath- 
er put egg over at first. 

Crust for Vcnicion Pastry. 

To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two 

pounds and a half of butter, and four eggs : mix 

into paste with warm water, and work it smooth 

and to a good consistence. Put a paste round the 

inside, but not to the bottom of the dish, and let the 

cover be pretty thick, to bear the long continuance 

in the oven. 

Pice Pastry. 

Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the 
smallest quantity of water : strain from it all the 
moisture as well as you can. Beat it in a mortar, 
with half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beat- 
en, and it will make an excellent paste for tarts, See. 



142 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Potatoe Pastry. 

Pound boiled potatoes very fine ; and add, while 
warm, a sufficiency of butter to make the mash 
hold together. Or you may mix with it an egg ; 
then before it gets cold, flour the board pretty well 
to prevent it from sticking, and roll it to the thick- 
ness wanted. 

If it is become quite cold before it be put on the 
dish, it will be apt to crack. 

PUDDINGS. 

Almond Puddings. 

Beat half a pound of sweet and a few bitter al- 
monds, with a spoonful of water ; then mix four 
ounces of butter, four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream 
warm with the butter, one of brandy, a little nut- 
meg and sugar to taste. Butter some cups, half 
fill, and bake the puddings. 

Serve with butter, wine, and sugar. 
Sago Pudding. 

Boil a pint and a half of new milk with four 
-spoonfuls of sago, nicely washed and picked, lemon- 
rieel, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Sweeten to taste ; 
then mix four eggs, put a paste round the dish, 
and bake slowly. 

Bread and Butter Pudding. 

Slice bread, spread with butter, and lay it in a 
dish with currants between each layer, and sliced 
citron, orange or lemon, if to be very nice. Pour 
over an unboiled custard of milk, two or three 
eggs, a few pimentos, and a very little ratafia, two 
hours at least before it is to be baked ; and lade it 
over and over to soak the bread. 



PUDDINGS. 143 

A paste round the edge makes all puddings look 
better, but is not necessary. 

Orange Pudding. 
Grate the rind of a Seville orange ; put to it six 
ounces of fresh butter, six or eight ounces of lump 
sugar pounded : beat them all in a marble mortar, 
and add as you do it the whole of eight eggs well 
beaten and strained : scrape a raw apple, and mix 
with the rest ; put a paste at the bottom and sides 
of the dish- and, over the orange mixture, put cross- 
bars of paste. Half an hour will bake it. 
Another Orange Pudding. 
Mix of the orange paste hereafter directed two 
full spoons, with six eggs, four of sugar, four ounces 
of butter warm, and put into a shallow dish, with a 
paste lining. Bake twenty minutes. 
Another. 
Rather more than two table spoonfuls of the 
orange paste, mixed with six eggs, four ounces of 
sugar, and four ounces of butter, melted, will make 
a good sized pudding, with a paste at the bottom 
cf the dish. Bake twenty minutes. 

An excellent Lemon Pudding. 
Beat the yelks of four eggs ; add four ounces of 
white sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with 
some lumps of it to take the essence : then peel, 
and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a large 
lemon, and mix all with four or five ounces of but- 
ter warmed. Put a crust into a shallow dish ; nick 
the edges, and put the above into it. When served, 
turn the pudding out of the dish. 



» 



144 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

A very fine Amber Pudding. 

Put a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three 
quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, finely powdered ; 
melt the butter and mix well with it : then add the 
yelks of fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh 
candied orange, as will add colour and flavour to it, 
being first beaten to a fine paste. Line the dish 
with paste for turning out ; and when filled with 
the above, lay a crust over, as you would a pie, 
and bake it in a slow oven. 

It is as good cold as hot. 

Baked Afifile Pudding. 

Pare and quarter four large apples ; boil them 
tender, with the rind of a lemon, in so little water 
that when done, none may remain : beat them quite 
fine in a mortar : add the crumbs of a small roll, 
four ounces of butter melted, the yelks of five and 
whites of three eggs, juice of half a lemon, and su- 
gar to taste. Beat all together, and lay it in a dish 
with paste to turn out. 

Oatmeal Pudding. 

Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the 
bestfine oatmeal ; let it soak all night. Next day 
beat two eggs, and mix a little salt : butter a bason 
that will just hold it : cover it tight with a floured 
cloth, and. boil it an hour and a half. Eat it with 
cold butter and salt. 

When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oat- 
cake .buttered. 

Dutch Pudding or Souster. 

Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk ; 
mix it into two pounds of flour, eight eggs, four 



PUDDINGS. 145 

spoonfuls of yeast : add one pound of currants, a 
quarter of a pound of sugar beaten and sifted. 

This is a very good pudding hot ; and equally so 
as a rake when cold. If for the latter, cai rawavs 
may be used instead of currants. An hour will 
bake it in a quick oven. 

A Dutch Rice Pudding. 

Soak four ounce* of rice in warm water half an 
hour : drain the latter from it* and throw it into a 
stewpan, with half a pint of milk, hall a stick of 
cinnamon, and simmer till tender. When cold, 
add four whole eggs well beaten, two ounces of but- 
ter melted in a teacupful of cream ; and put three 
ounces of sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a good 
piece of lemonpeel. 

Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or 
grated tops and bottoms, and bake in a quick oven. 
Light, or German Puddings. 

Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream ; 
let it stand till nearly cold, then mix two ounces of 
fine flour, and two ounces of sugar, four yelks and 
two whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange 
flower water. Bake in little cups, buttered, half an 
hour. They should be served the moment they 
are done, and only when going to be eaten, or they 
will not be light. 

Turn out of the cups, and serve with white wine 
and sugar. 

Little Bread Puddings. 

Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in about a pint 
of warm milk : when soaked, beat six eggs, whites 



146 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

and yelks, and mix with the bread, and two ounces 
of butter warmed, sugar, orange flower water, a 
spoonful of brandy, a little nutmeg, and a teacupful 
of cream. Beat all well, and bake in teacups but- 
tered. If currants are chosen, a quarter of a pound 
is sufficient ; if not, they are good without ; or you 
may put orange or lemon candy. Serve with pud- 
ding sauce. 

Puddings in haste. 

Shred suet, and put with grated bread, a few cur- 
rants, the yelks of four eggs, and the whites of two, 
some grated lemonpeel, and ginger. Mix, and 
make into little balls about the size and shape of an 
e^g, with a little flour. 

Have ready a skellet of boiling water, and throw 
them in. Twenty minutes will boil them ; but they 
will rise to the top when done. 

Pudding sauce. 

New College Puddings. 

Grate the crumbs of a twopenny loaf, shred suet 
eight ounces, and mix with eight ounces of cur- 
rants, one of citron mixed fine, one of orange, a 
handful of sugar, half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, 
yelk and white separately. Mix, and make into 
the size and shape of a gooseegg. Put half a 
pound of butter into a fryingpan ; and when melted, 
and quite hot, stew them gently in it over a stove. 
Turn them two or three times till of a fine light 
brown. Mix a glass of brandy with the batter. 

Serve with pudding sauce. 



PUDDINGS. 147 

Oxford Dumplings. 

Of grated bread two ounces, currants, and shred 
suet four ounces each, two large spoonfuls of flour, 
a great deal of grated lemonpeel, a bit of sugar, 
and a little pimento in fine powder. Mix with two 
eggs and a little milk into five dumplings, and fry 
of a fine yellow brown. 

Serve with sweet sauce. 

Brown Bread Pudding. 

Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto 
of currants, ditto of shred suet, sugar, and nutmeg. 
Mix with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, and two 
spoonfuls of cream. Boil, in a cloth or bason that 
exactly holds it, three or four hours. 
Boilrd Bread Pudding. 

Grate with bread, pour boiling milk over it, and 
cover close. When soaked an hour or two, beat 
it fine, and mix with it two or three eggs well 
beaten. 

Put it into a bason that will just hold it ; tie a 
floured cloth over it, and put it into boiling water. 
Send it up with melted butter poured over. 

It may be eaten with salt or sugar. 

Another, and richer Bread Pudding. 

On half a pint of crumbs of bread, pour half a 
pint of scalding milk ; cover for an hour. Beat 
up four eggs, and, when strained, add to the bread, 
with a teaspoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, two 
ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, an ounce 
of almonds beaten with orange flour water, half an 
p 2 



148 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron. Butter 
a bason that will exactly hold it ; flour the cloth, and 
tie tight over, and boil one hour. 
Batter Pudding. 

Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely 
smooth by degrees into a pint of milk ; simmer till 
it thickens ; stir in two ounces of butter ; set it to 
cool ; then add the yelks of three eggs. Flour a 
cloth that has been wet, or butter a bason, and put 
the batter into it ; tie it tight, and plunge it into 
boiling water, the bottom upwards. Boil it an hour 
and a half, and serve with plain butter. If approv- 
ed, a little ginger, nutmeg, and lemonpeel may be 
added, and sweet sauce. 

Batter Pudding ivith Meat. 

Make a batter with flour, milk, and eggs : pour 
a little into the bottom of a pudding dish ; then put 
seasoned meat of any kind into it, and a little shred 
onion ; pour. the remainder of the batter over, and 
bake in a slow oven. 

Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being 
first cleared of most of the fat. 

Rice small Puddings. 

Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it 
with half a pint of milk till thick. Then put with 
it the size of an egs; of butter, and near half a pint 
of thick cream, and give it one boil. When cool, 
mix four yelks and two whites of eggs well beaten ; 
sweeten to taste, and add nutmeg, lemonpeel grat- 
ed fine, and a little cinnamon powdered. 



PUDDINGSt 149 

Butter little cups, and fill three parts full, putting 
at bottom some orange or citron. Bake three 
quarters of an hour in a slovvish oven. Serve the 
moment before to be eaten, with sweet sauce in the 
dish, or a boat. 

Plain Rice Pudding, 

Wash and pick some rice ; throw among it some 
pimento finely pounded, but not much ; tie the rice 
in a cloth, and leave plenty of room for it to swell. 
Boil it in a quantity of water for an hour or two. 
When done, eat it with butter and sugar, or milk. 
Put lemonpeel if you please. 

It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt 
and butter. 

Rice Pudding ivith Fruit. 

Swell the rice with a very little milk over the 
fire ; then mix fruit of any kind with it, (currants ; 
gooseberries scalded ; pared and quartered apples ; 
raisins, or blackcurrants ;) with one egg into the 
rice, to bind it. Boil it well, and serve with sugar. 
Baked Rice Pudding. 

Swell rice as above ; then add some more milk, 
an e^, sugar allspice and lemonpeel. Bake in a 
deep dish. 

Another, for the Family. 

Put into a very deep pan half a pound of rice, 
washed and picked, two ounces of butter, four 
ounces of sugar, a few allspice pounded, and two 
quarts of milk. Less butter will do, or some suet. 
Bake in a slow oven, 



150 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Note. Eggs in rice pudding, if made of whole 
rice, causes the milk to turn to whey, if not boiled 
first, and then mixed cool. 

A George Pudding. 

Boil very tender a handful of whole rice in asmall 
quantity of milk, with a large piece of lemonpeeL 
Let it drain; then mix with it a dozen of good 
sized apples, boiled to pulp, and as dry as possible. 
Add a glass of white wine, the yelks of five eggs, 
and two ounces of orange and citron cut thin ; make 
it pretty sweet. Line a mould or bason with a very 
good paste : beat the five whites of the eggs to a 
very strong froth, and mix with the other ingredients: 
fill the mould, and bake it of a fine brown colour. 
Serve it with the bottom upward, with the following 
sauce : two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar, the 
yelk of two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a 
walnut : simmer without boiling, and pour to and 
from the saucepan, till of a proper thickness, and 
put in th« dish. 

Rice Piecrust. 

Clean, and put some rice, with an onion and a 

little water and milk, or milk only, into a saucepan, 

and simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops into 

a dish, and cover it with the rice. 

Rabbits fricasseed, and covered thus, are very good. 

Patatoe Pudding with Meat, 
Boil them till fit to mash : rub through a colan- 
der and make into a thick batter, with milk and 



PUDDINGS. 151 

twoeggs. Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then 
some batter ; and over the last layer pour the re- 
mainder of the batter. Bake a fine b"own. 

Steak, or Kidney Pudding. 

If kidney, split, and soak it, and season that or 
the meat. Make a paste of suet, flour, and milk : 
roll it, and line a bason with some : put the kidney 
or steaks in, cover with paste, and pinch round the 
edge. Cover with a cloth, and boil a considerable 
time. 

Suet Puddings. 

Shred a pound of suet ; mix with a pound and a 
quarter of flour, three eggs beaten separately, a 
little salt, and as little milk as will make it. Boil 
five hours. It eats well next day, cut in slices and 
broiled. 

Suet Dumplings. 

Make as above, and drop into boiling water, or 
into the boiling of beef; or you may boil in a cloth. 

Jlpple, Currant, or Damson Dumplings, or Pudding. 
Make as above, and loin a bason with the paste 
tolerably thin : fill with the fruit, and cover it : 
tie a cloth over tight, and boil till the fruit shall be 
done enough. 

Snowball. 
Swell rice in milk ; strain it off, and having 
pared and coared apples, put the rice round them, 
tying each up in a cloth. Put a bit of lemonpeel, a 
dove, or cinnamon in each, and boil them well. 



152 DOMESTIC COOKERS. 

s Hwiter's Pudding. 

Mix, of suet, flour, currants, and raisins stoned 
and a little cut, a pound each, the rind of lemon, 
shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica peppers in fine 
powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, 
and as little milk as will make it of a proper consis- 
tence. Boil it in a floured cloth, or a melon mould, 
eight or nine hours. Serve with sweet sauce. Add 
sometimes a spoonful of peach water. 

This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six 
months, if kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung 
up, folded in a sheet of cap paper to preserve it 
from dust, being first cold. When to be used, it 
must boil a full hour. 

Common Plumb Pudding. 

The same proportions of flour and suet, and half 
the quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass of 
wine, or not, and one egg and milk, will make an 
excellent pudding, if long boiled. 
Custard Pudding. 

Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large 
spoonful of flour, the yelks of five eggs, some orange 
flower water, and a little pounded cinnamon. But- 
ter a bason that will exactly hold it : pour the bat- 
ter in, and tie a floured cloth over it. Put it m 
boiling water, and turn it about a few minutes to 
prevent the egg going to one side. Half an hour 
will boil it. 

Put currantjelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce. 
A Rich Rice Pudding, 

Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little 
bfit of salt, till quite tender : drain it dry. Mix it 



PUDDINGS. 153 

with the yelks and whites of four eggs, a quarter of 
a pint of cream, with two ounces of fresh butter 
melted in the latter, four ounces of beefsuet, or 
marrow, or vealsuet taken from a fillet of veal, 
finely shred, three quarters of a pound of currants, 
two spoonfuls of brandy, one of peachwater, or ra- 
tafia, nutmeg, and grated lemonpeel. When well 
mixed, put a paste round the edge, and fill the dish. 
Slices of candid orange, lemon, and citron, if ap- 
proved. Bake in a moderate oven. 
Millet Pudding. 

Wash three spoonfuls of the seed ; put it into 
the dish, with a crust round the edges: pour over it 
as much new milk as shall nearly fill the dish, two 
ounces of butter warmed with it, sugar, shred lemon, 
and a little scrape of ginger and nutmeg. As you 
put it in the oven, stir in two eggs beaten ; and a 
spoonful of shred suet. 

An excellent plain Potatoe Pudding. 

Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces 
of butter, the yelks and whites of two eggs, a quar- 
ter of a pint of cream, one spoonful of white wine, 
a morsel of salt, the juice and rind of a lemon. 
Beat all to a froth : sugar to taste. A crust or not, 
as you like. Bake it. If wanted richer, put three 
ounces more butter, sweatmeats and almonds, and 
another egg. 

Carrot Pudding. 

Beat a large carrot tender : bruise it well, and 
mix with it a taWespoonful of biscuit beaten to 



154 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

powder, or four Naples biscuit, four yelks and two 
whites of eggs, a pint of scalded cream, some rose, 
or orange flower water, a little ratafia, nutmeg, and 
sugar. If you have no scalded cream, raw will do, 
if very thick. Put a little rim of paste round the 
dish, and bake it. Put orange, lemon or citron, 
cut in good sized bits. 

An excellent Afiricot Pudding. 
Halve twelve large apricots : give them a scald 
till they arc soft. Mean time pour on the grated 
crumbs of a penny loaf, a pint of boiling cieam ; 
when half cold, four ounces of sugar, the yelks of 
four beaten eggs, and a glass of white wine. Pound 
the apricots in a mortar, with some or all of the 
kernels ; mix then the fruit and other ingredients 
together : put a paste round the dish, and bake the 
pudding half an hour. 

Baked Gooseberry Pudding. 
Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or 
in a saucepan of water, till they will pulp. Take a 
pint of the juice pressed through a sieve, and beat 
it with three yelks and whites of eggs, beaten and 
strained, and one ounce and a half of butter : sweet- 
en it well, and put a crust round the dish. A few 
crumbs of roll should be mixed with the above to 
give a little consistence, or four ounces of Naples 
biscuit. 

A Green Bean Pudding. 
Boil and blanch old beans, beat them in a mortar 
with very little pepper and salt, some cream, and 
the yelk of an egg. A little spinach juice will give 



PUDDINGS, 155 

a finer colour, but it is as good without. Boil it in 
a bason that will just hold it, an hour ; and pour 
parsley and butter over. 

Serve bacon to eat with it. 

Baked Almond Pudding. 

Beat fine four ounces of almonds, fouror five bitter 
ditto, with a little wine, yelks of six eggs, peel of two 
lemons grated, six ounces of butter, near a quart of 
cream, juice of one lemon. When well mixed, bake 
it half an hour, with a paste round the dish. 

Shelford Pudding. 

Mix three quarters of a pound of currants, or 
raisins, one pound of suet, one pound of flour, six 
eggs, a little good milk, some lemonpeel, and a 
little salt. Boil it in a melon shape six hours. 
Brandy Pudding. 

Line a mould with jar raisins stoned, or dried 
cherries, then with thin slices of French roll; next 
to which put ratafias, or macaroons, then the fruit, 
roll, and cakes in succession, until the mould be 
full ; sprinkling in at times two glasses of brandy. 
Beat four eggs, yelks and whites : put to them a pint 
of milk or cream, lightly sweetened, with half a nut- 
meg, and the rind of half a lemon finely grated. Let 
the liquid sink into the solid part ; then flour a cloth, 
tie it tight over, and boil one hour ; keep the mould 
the right side up. Serve with pudding sauce. 
Buttermilk Pudding. 

Warm three quarts of new milk, and turn it with 
a quart of buttermilk : when ready, drain the curd 
Q 



156 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

through a sieve : when dry, pound it in a marble 
mortar, with near half a pound of sugar, a lemon 
boiled tender, the crumbs of a roll grated, a nutmeg 
grated, six bitter almonds, four ounces of warm but- 
ter, a teacupful of good cream, the yelks of five, and 
whites of three eggs, a glass of sweet wine, and one 
of brandy. 

When well incorporated, bake in small cups or 
bowls well buttered. If the bottom be not brown, 
use a salamander : but serve as quick as possible, 
and with pudding sauce. 

Curd Puddings, or Puffs. 

Turn two quarts of milk to curd ; press the whey 
from it ; rub it through a sieve, and mix four ounces 
of butter, the crumbs of a penny loaf, two spoonfuls 
of cream, half a nutmeg, a small quantity of sugar, 
and two spoonfuls of white wine. Butter little cups, 
or small pattypans, and fill them three parts. 
Orange flower water is an improvement. Bake 
them with care. 

Serve with sweet sauce in a boat. 

Boiled Curd Pudding. 

Rub the curd of two gallons of milk, when drain- 
ed, through a sieve. Mix it with six eggs, a little 
cream, two spoonfuls of orange flower water, half a 
nutmeg, of flour and crumbs of bread each three 
spoonfuls, currants and raisins half a pound of each. 
Soil an hour in a thick well floured cloth. 



PUDDINGS. 157 

Small Almond Puddings. 
Pound eight ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, 
with a spoonful of water ; mix with four ounces of 
butter warmed, four yelks and two whites of eggs, 
sugar to taste, two spoonfuls of cream, and one of 
brandy ; mix well, and bake in little cups buttered. 
Serve with pudding sauce. 

Excellent light Puff's. 
Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon- 
peel, some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a 
little loafsugar, and one egg : then fry it enough, 
but not brown ; beat it in a mortar with five eggs, 
whites and yelks ; put a quantity of lard in a frying- 
pan, and when quite hot, drop a dessert spoonful of 
batter at a time : turn as they brown. They will be 
large. Serve immediately. Sweet sauce. 

Pi/i/iin Pudding. 

Coddle six pippins in vineleaves covered with 
water, but very gently, that the inside be done with- 
out breaking the skins. When soft, take off the 
skins, and with a teaspoon take the pulp from the 
core. Press it through a colander ; add to it two 
spoonfuls of orange flower water, three eggs beaten, 
a pint of scalded cream, sugar and nutmeg to taste, 
Lay a thin puff paste at the bottom and sides of the 
dish : shred some very thin lemonpeel as fine as 
possible, and put into the dish ; as likewise some 
orange and citron in small slices. 



158 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Yorkshire Pudding. 

Mix five spoonfuls of flour, with a quart of milk, 
.and three eggs well beaten. Butter the pan. When 
brown by baking under the meat, turn the other 
side upwards, and brown that. It should be made 
in a square pan, and cut into pieces to come to table. 
Set it over a chafing dish at first, and stir it some 
minutes. 

A quick made Pudding. 

Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a 
quarter of a pint of new milk, a little mace and nut- 
meg, a quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto of cur- 
rants : mix well, and boil three quarters of an hour 
with the cover of the pot on, or it will require 
longer. 

Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings. 

Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread, 
but with milk instead of water, and put salt. Let 
it rise an hour before the fire. 

Twenty minutes before you are to serve, have 
ready a large stewpan of boiling water, make the 
dough into balls, the size of a middling apple, throw 
them in, and boil twenty minutes. If you doubt 
when done enough, stick a clean fork into one, and 
if it come out clear, it is done. 

The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the 
top with two forks, for they become heavy by their 
own' steam. Eat immediately with meat, or sugar 
and butter, or saft; 



PUDDINGS. 159 

Russian Seed, or ground Rice Pudding. 
Boil a large spoonful heaped of either in a pint 
of newmilk, with lemonpeel and cinnamon. When 
cold add sugar, nutmeg, and two eggs, well beaten. 
Bake with a crust round the dish. 

Observations on making Puddings. 

The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes dis- 
agreeably, which arises from the cloth not being 
nicely washed, and kept in a dry place. It should 
be dipped in boiling water, squeezed dry, and flour- 
ed, when to be used. 

If bread, it should be tied loose ; if batter, tight 
over. 

The water should boil quick when the pudding is 
put in.; and it should be moved about for a minute, 
lest the ingredients should not mix. 

Batter pudding should be strained through a 
coarse sieve, when all is mixed. In others the 
eggs separately. 

The pans and basons must be always buttered. 

A pan of cold water should be ready, and the 
pudding dipt in as soon as it comes out of the pot, 
and then it will not adhere to the cloth. 

SWEET DISHES, 

Lemon Custards. j^ 
Beat the yelks of eight eggs till they are as white 
as milk ; then put to them a pint of boiling water, 
the rinds of two lemons grated, and the juice sweet- 1 
c>2 



160 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

ened to your taste. Stir it on the fire till thick 
enough, then add a large glass of rich wine, and 
half a glass of brandy ; give the whole one scaid, 
and put it in cups, to be eaten cold. 
Lent Potatoes 

Beat three or four ounces of almonds, and three 
or four bitter, when blanched, putting a little orange 
flower water to prevent oiling: add eight ounces of 
butter, four eggs well beaten and strained, half a 
glass of raisin wine, and sugar to your taste. Beat 
all well till quite smooth, and grate in three Savoy 
biscuit. Make balls of the above, with a little flour, 
the size of a chesnut ; throw them into a stewpan 
of boiling lard, and boil them of a beautiful yellow 
brown. Drain them on a sieve. 

Serve sweet sauce in a boat, to eat with them. 
Rice Flummery. 

Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemonpeel, 
and cinnamon : mix with a little cold milk, as much 
riceflour as will make the whole of a good consis- 
tence : sweeten, and add a spoonful of peachwater, 
or a bitter almond beaten. Boil it, observing it 
does not burn. Pour it into a shape or pint bason, 
taking out the spice. When cold, turn the flum- 
mery into a dish, and serve with cream, milk, or 
custard round ; or put a teaspoonful of cream into 
half a pint of new milk, a glass of raisin wine, a 
little sugar, and a squeeze of lemon. 
Curds and Cream. 

Turn to curd three or four pints of milk with 
nmnet ; break it, and let the whey run out, then 



SWEET DISHES. 161 

put it into a bason ; and when to be served, put it 
on a dish with some cream, or fine milk, either 
plain or sweetened. 

Another ivay. 
To four quarts of new milk warmed, put from a 
pint to a quart of buttermilk strained, according- to 
its sourness ; keep the pan covered until the curd 
be of a firmness to cut three or four times across 
with a saucer, as the whey leaves it : put it into a 
shape, and fill up until it be solid enough to take 
the form. Serve with cream plain, or mixed with 
sugar, wine, and lemon. 

London Syllabub. 

Put a pint of port or white wine into a bowl, nut- 
meg grated, and a good deal of sugar, then milk 
into it near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If the 
wine be not rather sharp, it will require more for 
this quantity of milk. 

In Devonshire, clouted cream is put on the top, 
and pounded cinnamon and sugar. 

Staffordshire Syllabub. 

Put a pint of cyder, and a glass of brandy, su- 
gar, and nutmeg into a bowl, and milk into it ; oi 
pour warm milk from a large teapot some height 
into it. 

Devonshire Junket. 

Put warm milk into a bowl ; turn it with runnet ; 
then put some scalded cream, sugar and cinnamon 
on the top, without breaking the cur<J. 



162 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Avery fine Somersetshire Sillabub. 

In a large China bowl put a pint of port, and a 
pint of sherry, or other white wine ; sugar to taste. 
Milk the bowl full. In twenty minutes cover it 
pretty high with clouted cream ; grate over it nut- 
meg : put pounded cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. 
Sack Cream. 

Boil a pint of raw cream, the yelk of an egg well 
beaten, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, 
and lemonpeel ; stir it over a gentle fire till it be 
as thick as rich cream ; put it in a dish, and serve 
it cold, garnished with rusks or sippets of toasted 
bread. 

■ 

A Froth to set on Cream, Custard, or Trifle, which 
looks and eats well. 

Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or 
any other sort of scalded fruit: put to it the whites 
of four eggs beaten, and beat the pulp with them, 
until it will stand tis high as you choose ; and being- 
put on the cream, &c with a spoon, it will take any 
form. It should be rough to imitate a rock. 
Floating Island. 

Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter 
of a pint of raisin wine, a little lemonjuice, orange 
flower water, and sugar ; put into a dish for the 
middle of the table, and put on the cream a froth 
like the above, which may be made of raspberry or 
currantjelly. 

Another way. 

Scald a codlin before itbe ripe, or any sharp apple, 
and pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites of two 



SWEET DISHES. 163 

eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of orange flower 
water ; mix in by degrees <.he pulp, and beat all 
together until you have a large quantity of froth. 
Serve it on a raspberry cream ; or you may colour 
the froth with beetroot, raspberry, or currantjelly, 
and set it on a white cream, having given it the 
flavour of lemon, sugar, and wine as above ; or, 
put the froth on a custard. 

Everlasting, or Solid Syllabubs. 

Mix a quart of tVick raw cream, one pound of 
refined sugar, a pint of white, and half a pint of 
sweet wine in a deep pan : put to it the grated peel 
and the juice of three lemons. Beat, or whisk it 
one way half an hour, then put it into glasses. 

It will keep good, in a cool place, ten days. 

Yellow Lemon Cream, without Cream. 
Pare four lemons very thin into twelve large 
spoonfuls of water, and squeeze the juice on seven 
ounces of finely pounded sugar : beat the yelks of 
nine eggs well ; add the peels and juice beaten to- 
gether for some time ; then strain it through a 
flannel into a silver or very nice blocktin saucepan; 
set it over a gentle fire, and stir it one way till 
pretty thick, and scalding hot, but not boiling, or it 
will curdle. Pour it into jelly glasses. A few lumps 
of sugar should be rubbed hard on the lemons be- 
fore they are pared, or after, as the peel will*be so 
thin as not to take all the essence, and the sugar 
will attract it, and give a better colour and flavour 



164 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

White ditto 
Is made the same as the above ; only put the 
whites of the eggs in lieu of the yelks, whisking 
it extremely well to froth. 

Lemon Cream. 

Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yelks 
of two eggs well beaten, four ounces of fine sugar, 
and the thin rind of a lemon : boil it up, then stir 
it till almost cold. Put the mice of a lemon in a 
dish or bowl, and pour the cream upon it, stirring 
it till quite cold. 

An excellent Cream. 

Whip up three quarters of a pint of very rich 
cream to a strong froth, with some finely scraped 
lemonpeel, a squeeze of the juice, half a glass of 
sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant but not 
too sweet. Lay it on a sieve or in a form, and next 
day put it on a dish, and ornament it with very 
light puff paste biscuit, made in tin shapes the 
length of a finger, and about two thick, over which 
sugar may be strewed, or a light glaze with isin- 
glass. Or you may use macaroons. 
Blancmange or Blama?ige. 

Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of 
water half an hour ; strain it to a pint and half of 
cream ; sweeten it, and add some peachwater, or 
a few bitter almonds ; let it boil once up, and put it 
into what forms you please. If not to be very stiif, 
a little less isinglass will do. Observe to let the 
blamange settle before you turn it into the forms, 



SWEET DISHES. 165 

ur the blacks will remain at the bottom of them, 
and be on the top of the blamange when taken out 
of the moulds. 

Dutch Flummery. 9 

Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of 
water very gently half an hour : add a pint of white 
wine, the juice of three and the thin rind of one 
lemon, and rub a few lumps of sugar on another 
lemon to obtain the essence ; and with them add as 
much more sugar as shall make it sweet enough. 
Having beaten the yelks of seven eggs, give them 
and the above, when mixed, one scald ; stir all the 
time, and pour it into a basou. Stir it .ill half cold, 
then let it settle, and put it into a melon shape. 
Calf's Feet Jelly. 

Boil two feet in five pints of water till the feet 
are broken, and the water half* wasted : strain it, 
and, when cold, take off the fat, and remove the 
jelly from the sediment ; then put it into a sauce- 
pan, with sugar, raisin wine, lemonjuice to your 
taste, and some lemonpeel. When the flavour is 
rich, put to it the whites of five eggs well beaten, 
and their shells broken. Set the saucepan on the 
tire, but do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm. 
Let it boil twenty minutes after it rises to a head, 
then pour it through a flannel jellybag ; first dip- 
ping the bag in hot water to prevent waste, and 
squeezing it quite dry. Run the jelly through 
and through until clear ; then put it into glasses or 
forms. 



166 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Observe, that the feet for all jellies should be 
only scalded to take off the hair ; not bought boiled, 
which is the usual way ; but the following mode 
will greatly facilitate the clearing of jelly : when the 
mixture has boiled twenty minutes, throw in a tea- 
cupful of cold water ; let it boil five minutes longer: 
then take the saucepan off the fire, cover it close, 
and keep it half an hour : after which, it will be so 
clear as to need only once running through the 
bag, and much waste will be saved. 

Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by 
the people who sell them, that the nutritious juices 
are lessened ; they should be only scalded to take 
off the hair. The liquor will require greater care 
in removing the fat ; but the jelly will be far 
stronger, and, of course, allow more water. 
Another sirt. 

Boil four quarts of water with three calf's feet 
that have been only scalded, till half wasted : take 
the jelly from the fat and sediment : mix with it 
the juice of a Sevilleorange, and twelve lemons, 
the peels of three, the whites and shells of twelve 
eggs ; brown sugar to taste, near a pint of raisin 
wine, one ounce of corianderseed, a quarter of an 
ounce of allspice, a bit of cinnamon, and six cloves, 
ail bruised, after having previously mixed them 
cold. The jelly should boil fifteen minutes with- 
out stirring ; then clear it through a flannel bag. 
While running take a little jelly, and mix with a 
teacupful of water in which a bit of beetroot has 
been boiled, and run it through the bag when all 



SWEET DISHES. - 167 

the rest is run out ; and this is to garnish the other 
jelly, being cooled on a plate ; but this is matter 
of choice. 

Orangcjclly \ 

Grate the rind of two Seville and two China 
oranges, and two lemons ; squeeze the juice of 
three of each, and strain, and add the juice to a 
quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and a quarter of 
•a pint of water, and boil till it almost candies. Have 
ready a quart of isinglassjelly made with two 
ounces, put to it the syrup, and boil it once up ; 
strain off the jelly, and let it stand to settle as above 
before it be put into the mould. 

Hart&horvjtlly. 
Simmer eight ounces of hartshorn shavings with 
two quarts of water to one ; strain it, and boil it 
with the rinds of four China oranges and two lemons 
pared thin ; when cool, add the juice of both, half a 
pound of sugar, and the whites of six eggs beaten 
to a froth ; let the jelly have three or four boils 
without stirring, and strain it through a jellybag. 

Imperial Cream. 
Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a 
lemon, then stir it till nearly cold ; have ready in a 
dish or bowl that you are to serve in, the juice of 
three lemons strained with as much sugar as will 
sweeten the cream ; which pour into the dish from 
a large teapot, holding it high, and moving it about 

R 



168 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

to mix with the juice. It should be made at least 
six hours before it be served. 

A Cream. 
Boil half a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk, 
with two bayleaves, a bit of lemonpeel, a few al- 
monds beaten to paste, with a drop of water, a little 
sugar, orange flower water, and a teaspoonful of 
flour, having been rubbed down with a little cold 
milk, and mixed with the above. When cold, put 
a little lemonjuice to the cream, and serve it in 
cups or lemonade glasses. 

Cheap,, and excellent Custards. 
Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemon- 
peel, a bit of cinnamon, two or three bayleaves, 
and sweeten it. Meanwhile rub down smooth a 
large spoonful of rice flour into a cup of cold milk, 
and mix with it two yelks ol egg well beaten. Take 
a bason of the boiling milk, and mix with the cold, 
and then pour that to the boiling ; stirring it one 
way, till it begins to thicken, and is just going to 
boil up ; then pour it into a pan, stir it some time, 
add a large spoonful of peachwater, two teaspoon- 
fuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. 

Richer Custard. 
Boil a pint of milk with lemonpeel and cinna- 
mon ; mix a pint of cream, and the yelks of five 
eggs well beaten. When the milk tastes of the 
seasoning, sweeten it enough for the whole, pour 
it into the cream, stirring well, then give the 



SWEET DISHES. 1G9 

custard a simmer till of a proper thickness. Do 
not let it boil. Stir the whole time one way : 
season as above. 

Almond Cream. 

Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few 
bitter, in a mortar, with a teaspoonful of water to 
prevent oiling, both having been blanched. Put 
the paste to a quart of cream, and add the juice of 
three lemons sweetened ; beat it up with a whisk 
to a froth, which take off on the shallow part of a 
sieve. Fill glasses with some of the liquor and 
the froth. 

Brandy Cream. 

Boil two dozen of almonds blanched, and pounded 
bitter almonds in a little milk. When cold, add it 
to the yelks of five eggs beaten well in a little 
cream ; sweeten, and put to it two glasses of best 
brandy ; and when well mixed, pour to it a quart 
of thin cream. Set it over the fire, but do not let 
it boil. Stir one way till it thickens, then pour into 
cups, or low glasses. When cold it will be ready. 
A ratafia drop may be put in each, if you choose 
it. If you wish it to keep, scald the cream previously. 
Snow Cream. 

Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs 
well beaten, four spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to 
your taste, and a bit of lemonpeel : whip it to a 
froth, remove the peel, and serve in a dish. 
J pretty Su/i/ier dish. 

Boil a teacupful of rice, having first washed it 
in milk, till tender: strain off the milk ; lay the 



170 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

rice in little heaps on a dish ; strew over theui 
some finely powdered sup;ar and cinnamon, and 
put warm wine and a little butter into the dish. 
Wine Roll. 

Soak a penny French roll in raisin wine till it 
will hold no more : put it in the dish, and pour 
round it a custard, or cream, sugar, and lemonjuice. 
Just before it is served, sprinkle over it some non- 
pareil comfits ; or stick a few blanched and slit 
almonds into it. 

Sponge biscuit may be used instead of the roll. 
An excellent Trifle. 

Lay macaroons and ratafia drops over the bot- 
tom of your dish, and pour in as much raisin wine 
as they will suck up ; which, when they have done, 
pour on them cold rich custard, made with more 
eggs than directed in the foregoing pages, and some 
rice flour It must stand two or three inches thick. 
On that put a layer of raspberry jam, and cover 
. the whole with a very high whip made the day 
before, of rich cream, the whites of two well beaten 
eggs, sugar, lemonpeel, and raisin wine. If made 
the day'* before used, it has quite a different taste* 
and is solid and far better. 

Burnt Cream. 
Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon, 
and some lemonpeel ; take it ofi'the fire, and pour 
it very slowly into the yelks of four eggs, stirring 
till half cold : sweeten, and take out the spice, &c. 
Pour it into the dish ; when cold, strew white 



SWEET DISHES. 171 

pounded sugar over, and brown it with a salaman- 
der. 

Rice and Sago Milks 

Are made by washing' the seeds nicely, and over 
a slow fire simmering with milk till sufficiently 
done. The former sort requires lemon, spice 
and sugar ; the latter is fine without any thing to 
flavour it. 

Lemon Honeycomb. 

Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and 
put it in the dish that you serve it in. Mix the 
white of an ego; that is beaten with a pint of rich 
cream, and a little sugar ; whisk it, and as the 
froth rises put it on the lemonjuice. 

Do it the day before it is to be used. 
Coffee Cream. Much admired. 

Boil a calf's foot in water till it wastes to a pint 
of jelly : clear it of sediment and fat. Make a tea- 
cup of very strong coffee ; clear it with a bit of isin- 
glass to be perfectly bright ; pour it to the jelly, 
and add a pint of very good cream, and as much 
fine Lisbon sugar as is pleasant. Give one boil 
up, and pour into the dish. It should jelly, but 
not be stiff. Observe that your coffee be fresh. 
Orange Fool. 

Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three 
. well Ixaien, a pint of cream, a little nutmeg 
and cinnamon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the 
whole over a slow fire, and stir it ti 1 it becomes as 
thick as good melted butter, but it must not be 
boiled ; then pour it into a dish for eating cold. 
B 2 



172 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Goosberry Fool. 

Put the fruit into a stonejar and some good 
Lisbon sugar with them : set the jar on a stove, 
or in a saucepan of water over the fire ; if the for- 
mer, a large spoonful of water should be added to 
the fruit. When it is done enough to pulp, press 
it through a colander : have ready a sufficient 
quantity of new milk, and a teacup of raw cream 
boiled together ; or an egg instead of the latter, 
and left to be cold ; then sweeten it pretty well 
with fine Lisbon sugar, and mix the pulp by de- 
grees, with it. 

Jfifile Fool. 

Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, ami 
then peel and pulp them. Prepare the milk, Sec. 
and mix as before. 

Raspberry Cream. 

Mash the fruit gently, and let them drain ; then 
sprinkle a little sugar over, and that will produce 
more juice ; then put the juice to some cream, and 
sweeten it. After which, if you choose to lower it 
with some milk, it will not curdle ; which it would, 
if put to the milk before the cream ; but it is best 
made of raspberry jelly, instead of jam, when the 
fresh fruit cannot be obtained. 
Flummery. 
Putthree large handfuls oi very small white oatmeal 
to steep a day and night in cold water ; then pour 
it off clear, and add as much more water, and let it 
stand the same time. Strain it through a fine hair 
sieve, and boil it till it be as thick as hastypudding ; 



SWEET DISHES. 173 

• in?: it well all the time. When fir?! strained, 
put to it one large spoonful of white sugar, and 
two of orange flower v\ater. Put it into shal- 
low dishes ; and serve to eat with wine, cyder, 
milk, or cream and sugar. It is very good. 
To buffer Otange&. 

Grate off a little of the outside rind of four Se- 
ville oranges, and cut a round hole, at the blunt 
end opposite the stalk, large enough to take out 
the pulp, seeds, and juice ; 'A\en pick the seeds 
ahtl skin from the pulp. Rub the oranges with a 
little salt, and lay them in water for a short time. 
You are to save the bits cut out. Set the fruit 
on to boil in fresh water till they are tender, shift- 
ing the water to take out the bitterness. In the 
mean time, make a thin syrup with fine sugar, and 
put the oranges into it, and b jil them up, turning 
them round, that each part may partake of the 
syrup, as there need not be enough to cover them, 
and let them remain in it hot till they are to be 
served. About half an hour before you want them, 
put some sugar to the pulp, and set over the fire ; 
mix it well, and let it boil ; then add a spoonful of 
white wine for every orange. Give it a boil, and 
then put in a bit of fresh butter, and stir it over 
the fire to thicken. Fill the oranges with it, and 
serve, them with some of the syrup in the dish, 
Put the bits on the top. 

Buttered Orange Juice, 

Mix the juice of seven Seville oranges with four 
spoonfuls of rose water, and add the whole to the 



174 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

yelks of eight and whites of four eggs, well beaten. 
Then strain the liquor to half a pound of sugar 
pounded ; stir it over a gentle fire, and when it be- 
gins to thicken, put about the size of a small wal- 
nut of butter : keep it over the fire a few minutes 
longer, then pour it into a flat dish, and serve it to 
eat cold. 

If you have no silver saucepan, doit in a China- 
bason in a saucepan of boiling water, the top of 
which will just receive the bason. 
Stewed Pears. 

Pare and halve, or quarter, large pears, according 
to their size : throw them into water, as the skin is 
taken off before they are divided, to prevent their 
turning black. Pack them round a blocktin stew- 
pan, and sprinkle as much sugar over as will make 
them pretty sweet : add lemonpeel, a clove or two, 
and some allspice cracked. Just cover them with 
water, and put some of the red liquor which will 
be directed hereafter ; cover them close, and stew 
three or four hours. When tender, take them out, 
and pour Jthe liquor over them. 

Baked Pears. 

These need not be of a fine sort ; but some taste 
better than others, and often those that are least fit 
to eat raw. Wipe, but do not pare, and lay them on 
tin plates, and bake them in a slow oven. When 
baked enough to bear it, flatten them with a silver 
spoon. When done through, put them on a dish. 

Apples in the same way are excellent, and serve 
for desserts. 



SWEET DISHES. 175 

Dried Apples^ or Pears. 

Put them in a ccol oven six or seven times, and 
flatten them by degrees, and gently, when soft 
enough to bear it. If the oven be too hot they will 
waste ; and at first it should be very cool. 

The Biffin, the Minshul crab, or any tart apples t 
are the sort for drying. 

Black Caps. 

Halve and coar some fine large apples: put them 
in a shallow pan : strew white sugar over, and bake 
them. Boil a glass of wine, the same of water, and 
sweeten it for sauce. 

Sieived Golden Pififuns. 

Scoop out the core ; pare them very thin ; and 
as you do it, throw them in water. For every 
pound of fruit make half a pound of single refined 
sugar into syrup, with a pint of water. When 
skimmed, put the pippins in, and stew till clear ; 
then grate lemon over, and serve in the syrup. Be 
careful not to let them break. 

They are an elegant and good dish for a corner 
or dessert. 

Red Affiles in Jelhi. 
Pare and core some well shaped apples ; pippins. 
or golden rennets, if you have them,> but others 
will do : throw them into water as you do t!:em. 
Put them in a preserving pan, and with as little 
water as will only half cover them, let them coddle ; 
and when the lower side is done, turn them. Observe 
that they do not Ire too close when first put in. Mix 



176 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

some pounded cochineal with the water, and boil 
with the fruit. When sufficiently done, take them 
out on the dish they are to be served in, the stalk 
downwards. Take the water, and make a rich 
jelly of it with loaf sugar, boiling the thin rind tmd 
juice of a lemon. When come to a jelly, let it 
grow cold, and put it on and among the apples, and 
cut the peel of the lemon in narrow strips, and put 
across the eye of the apple. 

Observe that the colour be fine from the first, or 
the fruit will not afterwards gain it. 

Apfilejelly, to serve to table. 

Prepare twenty golden pippins : boil them in a 
pint and a half of water from the spring, till quite 
tender ; then strain the liquor through a colander. 
To every pint put a pound of fine sugar ; add grated 
orange or lemon, then boil to a jelly. 
Another. 

Prepare apples as before, by boiling and strain- 
ing : have ready half an ounce of isinglass, boiled 
in half a pint of water to a jelly : put this to the 
apple water, and apple as strained through a coarse 
sieve : add sugar, a little lemonjuice and peel. Boil 
all together, and put into a dish. Take out the 
peel. 

To firefiare Affiles for Puffs. 

Pare and core apples ; cover them with water, 
but put them as close as possible, that they may 
take but little : add a little pounded cinnamon and 
a clove ; to every dozen apples two spoonfuls of 
rosewater, and a little lemonpeel finely shred. 
Sweeten and cool before you make it into pufifs. 



SWEET DISHES. 177 

Pififiin Tarts. 

Pare thin two Seville or China oranges ; boil the 
peel tender, and shred it fine. Pare and core twen- 
ty apples ; put them in a stewpan, and as little 
water as possible ; when half done, add hall' a 
pound of sugar, the orangepeel and juice : boil till 
pretty thick. When cold, put it in a shallow dish, 
or pattypans lined with paste, to turn out, and be 
eaten cold. 

Afifile Marmalade. '-/^ 

Scald apples till they will pulp from the core ; 
then take an equal weight of sugar in large lumps, 
just dip them in water, and boiling it till it can be 
well skimmed, and is a thick syrup ; put to it the 
pulp, and simmer it on a quick fire a quarter of an 
hour. 

Keep it in small pots, covered with paper dipped 

in brandy. 

Codlins to scald. 

Wrap each in a vinelcaf, and pack them close in 
a nice saucepan ; and, when full, pour as much 
water as will cover them. Set it over a gentle fire, 
and let them simmer slowly till done enough to 
take the thin skin ofYwhen cold. Place them in a 
dish, with or without milk, cream, or custard ; if 
the latter, there should be no ratafia. Dust fine 
sugar over the apples. 

Different ways cf dressing Cranberries. 
For pies and puddings, with a good deal of sugar. 
Stewed in a jar, with the same ; which way they 
eat well with rpread, and are very wholesome. 



178 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Thus done, pressed and strained, the juice makes 
a fine drink for people in fevers. 
Cranberry jelly. 

Make a very strong isinglassjelly. When cold, 
mix it with a double quantity of cranberryjuice 
pressed as above : sweeten and boil it up ; then 
strain it into a shape. 

The sugar must be good loaf, or the jelly will 
not be clear. 

Cranberry and Ricejelly. 

Boil and press the fruit : strain the juice ; and 
by degrees mix into it as much ground rice as will, 
when boiled, thicken to a jelly. Boil it gently, 
stirring it, and sweeten to your taste. Put it into 
a bason or form, and serve to eat as the befoiv 
directed jelly, with milk or cream. 
Prune Tart. 

Give prunes a scald : take out the stones and 
break them : put the kernels into a little cranberry 
juice, with the prunes and sugar ; simmer, and 
when cold, make a tart of the sweetmeat. 

To Jill preserved Oranges. Corner dish. 
For five, take a pound of Naples biscuit, some 
blanched almonds, the yelks of four eggs beaten, 
sugar to your taste, four ounces of butter warmed : 
grate the biscuit, and mix with the above, and 
some orange flower water. Fill preserved oranges 
and bake in a very slow oven. If you like them 
frosted, sift sugar over them as soon as filled 
otherwise wipe them. Custard to fill will dc 



SWEET DISHES. 179 

as well ; if so, you need not bake the oranges, but 
put in cold. 

Orange Tart. 
Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges ten- 
der : weigh them, and double of sugar ; beat both 
together to a paste, and then add the juice and pulp 
of the fruit, and the size of a walnut of fresh butter* 
aod beat all together. Choose a very shallow dish, 
line it with a light puff crust, and lay the paste of 
orange in it. You may ice it. See Paste. 

Codlin Tart. 

Scald the fruit, as directed under that article ; 
when ready, take off the thin skin, and lay them 
whole in a dish, put a little of the water that the 
apples were boiled in at bottom, and strew them 
over with lump sugar or fine Lisbon ; when cold, 
put a paste round the edges, and over. 

You may wet it with white of egg, and strew 
sugar over, which looks well : or, cut the lid in 
quarters, without touching the paste on the edge of 
the dish ; and either put the broad end downwards, 
and make the point stand up, or remove the lid 
altogether. Pour a good custard over it ; when 
cold, sift sugar over it. 

Or line the bottom of a shallow dish with paste, 
lay the apples in it, put sugar over, and lay little 
twists of paste over in bars. 

Cherry Pie 

Should have a mixture of other fruit ; such as 
currants or raspberries, or both, 
s 



180 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Rhubarb Tart. 

Cut the stalks in lengths of four or five inches, 
and take off the thin skin. If you have a hot hearth, 
lay them in a dish, and put over a thin syrup of 
sugar and water: cover with another dish, and let it 
simmer very slowly an hour ; or do them in a 
biocktin saucepan. When cold, make into a tart, 
as codlin. 

Currant and Ras/iberry. 

Make as a pie ; or for a tart ; line the dish, put 
sugaY and fruit, lay bars across, and bake. 
jififilefiie. 

Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the out- 
side ; which, with the cores, boil with a little water 
till it tastes well. Strain, and put a little sugar, 
♦ and a bit of bruised cinnamon, and simmer again. 
In the mean time place the apples in a dish, a paste 
being put round the edge ; when one layer is in, 
sprinkle half the sugar, and shred lemonpeel, and 
squeeze some juice, or a glass of cycler ; if the ap- 
ples have lost their spirit, put in the rest of the 
apples, sugar, and the liquor that you have boiled. 
Cover with paste. You may add some butter when 
cut, if eaten hot : or put quince marmalade, orange 
paste, or cloves to flavour. 

Puffii of .any sort of Fruit 

May be made, but it should be prepared first 
with sugar. Apples will do, as before directed ; 
or, as follows, eat best : the crust must be thick, if 
used raw. Pare and slice apple ; sprinkle sugar. 



SWEET DISHES. 181 

and some chopped lemon : or stew in a small stone* 

jar, When cold, make it into puffs of thin crust 

A Tansty. 

Beat seven eggs, yelks and whites separately : 
add a pint of cream, near the same of spinachjuice, 
and a little tanseyjuice gained by pounding in a 
stonemortar ; a quarter of a pound of Naples bis- 
cuit, sugar to taste, a glass of white wine, and some 
nutmeg. Set all in a saucepan, just to thickem 
over the fire ; then put into a dish, lined with paste 
to turn out, and bake it. 

Pancakes of Rice. 

Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly in a small 
quantity of water : when cold, mix it with a pint of 
cream, eight eggs, a bit of salt, and nutmeg. Stir 
in eight ounces of butter just warmed, and add as 
much flour as will make the batter thick enough. 
Fry in as little lard or dripping as possible. 
Common Pancakes. 

Make a light batter of eggs, flour, and milk. 
Fry in a small pan, in hot dripping or lard. Salt, 
or nutmeg and ginger may be added. 

Sugar and lemons should be served to eat with 
them. Or, when eggs are scarce, make the batter 
with flour, and small beer, gfoger, &c. Or clean 
snow, with flour, and a very Kttle milk, will serve 
as well as eggs. 

Irish Pancakes. 

Beat eight yelks and four whites of eggs : strains 
them into a pint of cream ; put a grated nutmeg 
and sugar to your taste. Set three ounces of fresh 



182 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

butter on the fire, stir it, and as it warms, pour it 
to the cream, which should be warm when the 
eggs are put to it ; then mix smooth almost 
half a pint of flour. Fry the pancakes very thin, 
the first with a bit of butter, but not the others. 
Serve several, one on another. 

Fine Pancakes^ fried without Butter^ or Lard. 

Beat six fresh eggs extremely well ; mix, when 
strained, with a pint of cream, four ounces of sugar, 
a glass of wine, half a nutmeg grated, and as much 
flour as will make it almost as thick as ordinary 
pancake batter, but not quite. Heat the fryingpan, 
tolerably hot, wipe it with a clean cloth ; then pour 
in the batter, to make thin pancakes. 
Bookings. 

Mix three ounces of buckwheat flour, with a 
teacupful of warm milk, and a spoonful of yeast ; 
let it rise before the fire about an hour ; then mix. 
four eggs, well beaten, and as much milk as will 
make the batter the usual thickness for pancakes, 
and fry them as they are done. 
A Fraise. 

Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long : 
make a batter of a pint of milk, three eggs, and a 
large spoonful of flour ; add salt and pepper : put a 
piece of fresh dripping in the pan, and, when hot, 
pour half the batter, and on it strew the bacon, then 
the remainder of the batter. Let it do gently ; and 
be careful, in turning, that the bacon do not come 

to the pan. 

Fritters. 
Make them of any of the batters directed for 
pancakes by dropping a small quantity into the pan, 



SWEET DISHES. 18o 

Or make the plainer sort, and put pared apple, 
sliced and cored, into the batter, and fry some of 
it with each slice. Currants, or sliced lemon as 
thin as paper, make an agreeable change. 
Spanish Fritters. 

Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths, as 
thick as your finger, in what shape you will. Soak 
in some cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon, 
and an e^. When well soaked, fry of a nice 
brown, and serve with butter, wine, and sugar 
sauce. 

Polaioe Fritter*. 

Boil two large potatoes, and scrape them fine : 
beat four yelks and three whites of ei^gs, and add 
to the above, with one large spoonful of cream, 
another of sweet wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a 
little nutmeg. Beat this batter half an hour at 
least. It will be extremely light. Put a good 
quantity of fine lard in a stewpan, and drop a spoon- 
ful of the batter at a time into it : fry them ; and 
serve as a sauce, a glass of white wine, the juice 
of a lemon, one dessert spoonful of peachleaf, or 
almond water, and some white sugar warmed to- 
gether : not to be served in the dish. 
Cheesecakes. 

Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of 
milk. When rather dry, crumble it through a 
coarse sieve, and mix with six ounces of fresh but- 
ter,one ounce of pounded blanched almonds, a little 
orange flower water, half a glass of raisin wine, a 
S 2 
• 



184 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

grated biscuit, four ounces of currants, some nut- 
meg, and cinnamon, in fine powder, and beat all 
the above with three eggs, and half a pint of cream, 
till quite light ; then fill the pattypans three parts 
full. 

A filainer sort. 

Turn three quarts of milk to curd : break it, 
and drain the whey. When dry, break it in a pan, 
with two ounces of butter, till perfectly smooth : 
put to it a pint and a half of thin cream or good 
milk, and add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and three 
©unces of currants. 

CJieesecakes, another 'way. 

Mix the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of 

currants, twelve ounces of Lisbon sugar, a quarter 

of an ounce each of cinnamon and nutmeg, the peel 

of two lemons chopped so fine that it becomes a 

paste, the yelks of eight and whites of six eggs, a 

pint of scalded cream, and a glass of brandy. Put 

a light thin puff paste in the pattypans, and three 

parts fill them. 

Lemon Cheesecakes. 

Mix four ounces of sifted lump sugar, and four 

ounces of butter, and gently melt it ; then add the 

yelks of two and the white of one eg^y the rind of 

three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one and a 

half ; one Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds 

pounded, and three spoonfuls of brandy. Mix 

well, and put in paste made as follows : eight 

ounces of flour, six ounces of butter ; two thirds of 

which mix with the flour first ; then wet it with 

six spoonfuls of water) and roll the remainder in. 



SWEET DISHES. 185 

Another Lemon Cheesecake. 

Boil two large lemons, or three small ones ; and, 
after squeezing, pound them well together, in a 
mortar, with four ounces of loaf sugar, the yelks of 
six eggs, and eight ounces of fresh butter. Fill 
the pattypans half full. 

Orange cheesecakes are done the same way, 
only you must boil the peel in two or three waters 
to take out the bitterness. . 

Orange Cheesecakes. 

When you have blanched half a pound of al- 
monds, beat them very fine, with orange flower 
water, and half a pound of fine sugar beaten and 
sifted, a pound of butter that has been melted care- 
fully without oiling, and which must be nearly 
cold before you use it ; then beat the yelks of ten 
and whites of four eggs : pound two candied 
oranges, and a fresh one with the bitterness boiled 
out, in a mortar, till as tender as marmalade, with- 
out any lumps ; and beat the whole together, and 
put into pattypans. 

For the crust, turn to page 139. 
Potatoe Cheesecakes. 

Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of 
lemonpeel : beat the latter in a marble mortar, 
with four ounces of sugar ; then add the potatoes, 
beaten, and four ounces of butter melted in a little 
cream. When well mixed, let it stand to grow 
cold. Put crust in pattypans, and rather more 
than half fill them. Bake in a quick oven half an 



186 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

hour ; sifting some double refined sugar on thein 
when going to the oven. This quantity will make 
a dozen. 

Aimond Cheesecakes. 
Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, and 
a few bitter, with a spoonful of water ; then add 
four ounces of sugar pounded, a spoonful of cream, 
and the whites of two eggs well beaten. Mix all 
as quick as possible ; put into very small pattypans, 
and bake in a pretty warm oven under twenty 
minutes. 

FRUITS, TO KLEP. 

Oranges or Lemons, for Puddings, L?c. 
When you squeeze the fruits, throw the outside 
in water without the pulp. Let them remain in 
the same a fortnight, adding no more. Boil them 
therein till tender ; strain it from them, and when 
they are tolerably dry, throw them into any old jar 
of candy, you may have remaining from old sweet- 
meats ; or if you have none, boil a small quantity 
of syrup of common loaf sugar and water, and put 
over them. In a week or ten days boil them gently 
in it till they look clear, and that they may be 
covered with it in the jar. You may cut each halt 
of the fruit in two, and they will occupy small 

space. 

To /ireserve Gooseberries. 

Before they become too large, let them be gath- 
ered ; and take care not to cut them in taking off 
the stalks and buds. Fill wide mouthed bottles ; 
put the corks loosely in, and set the bottles up to 



FRUITS. 187 

the neck in water in a boiler. When the fruit 
looks scalded, take them out ; and when perfectly 
cold, cork close, and rosin the top. Dig a trench 
in a part of the garden least used, sufficiently deep 
for all the bottles to stand, and the earth be thrown 
over, to cover them a foot and a half. When a 
frost comes on, a little fresh litter from the stable 
will prevent the ground from hardening, so that the 
fruit cannot be dug up. Or, scald as above ; when 
cold, fill the bottles with cold water ; cork them, 
and keep them in a damp, or dry place : they will 

not be spoiled. 

Another <way. 
In the size and preparation as above. When" 
done, have boiling water ready, either in a boiler 
or large kettle, and into it put as much rock alum 
as will, when dissolved, harden the water, which 
you will taste by a lU'le roughness : if there be too 
much it will spoil the fruit. Put as many goose- 
berries into a large sieve as will lie at the bottom 
without covering one another. Hold the sieve in 
the water till the fruit begins to look scalded on the 
outside : then turn them gently out of the sieve on 
a cloth on the dresser : cover them with another 
cloth, and put some more to be scalded ; and so on 
till all shall be finished. Observe not to put one 
quantity on another, or they will become too soft. 
The next day pick out any bad or broken ones, 
bottle the rest, and fill up the bottles with the alum 
water in which they were scalded : which must be 



188 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

kept in the bottles ; for if left in the kettle, or in u 
glazed pan, it will spoil. Stop them close. 

Note. The water must boil all the time the 
process is carrying on. Gooseberries, done this 
way, make as fine tarts as fresh off the trees. 

Another way. 

In dry weather pick the gooseberries that are 
full grown, but not ripe : top and tail them, and put 
into open mouthed bottles. Gently cork them with 
new velvet corks ; put them in the oven when the 
bread is drawn, and let them stand till shrunk a 
quarter part : take them out of the oven, and im- 
mediately beat the corks in tight : cut off the tops, 
and rosin down close. Set them in a dry place ; 
and if well secured from air they will keep the 
year round. 

If gathered in the damp, or the gooseberries* 
skins are the least cut in taking off the stalks and 
buds, they will mould. 

Currants and damsons may be done the same. 

To keep. Currants. 

The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the 
currants be cut from the large stalks with the 
smallest bit of stalk to each, that, the fruit not be- 
ing wounded, no moisture may be among them. 
It is necessary to gather them when the weather 
is quite dry ; and if the servant can be depended 
upon, it is best to cut them under the trees, and let 
them drop gently into the bottles. 



FRUITS. 189 

.Mop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put. 
them into the trench in the garden with the neck 
downwards. Sticks should be placed opposite to 
where each sort of fruit begins. 

JVbte. The directions for gooseberries in case 
of frost. 

Cherries and damsons keep in the same way. 

Currants may be scalded, and kept with or with- 
out sugar, as directed for gooseberries. 

To keep. Codlins for several months. 

Gather codlins at Midsummer of a middling 
size : put them into an earthen pan : pour boiling 
water over them, and cover the pan with cabbage- 
leaves. Keep them by the fire till they would 
peel, but do not peel them ; then pour the water 
off till both are quite cold. Place the codlins then 
in a stonejar with a smallish mouth, and pour on 
them the water that scalded them. Cover the pot 
with bladder wetted, and tied very close, and then 
over it coarse paper tied again. 

It is best to keep them in small jars, such as will 
be used at once when opened. 

To kee/i Damsons for winter Pies. 

Put them in small stonejars, or wide mouthed 
les : set them up to their necks in a boiler of 
cold water, and lighting a fire under, scald them. 
Next day, when perfectly cold, fill up with spring- 
water. Cover them. 

Another way. 

Boil one third as much sugar as fruit with it,over 
a slow fire, till the juice adheres to the fruit, and 



190 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

forms a jam. Keep it in small jars in a dry place. 
If too sweet, mix with it some of the fruit that is 
done without sugar. 

Another way. 
Choose steep pots if you can get them, which are 
of equal size top and bottom (they should hold 
eight or nine pounds): put the fruit in about a quar- 
ter up, then strew in a quarter of the sugar, then 
another quantity of fruit, and so till all of both are 
in. The proportion of sugar is to be three pounds 
to nine pounds of fruit. Set the jars in the oven, 
and bake the fruit quite through. When cold, put 
a piece of clean scraped stick into the middle of the 
jar, and let the upper part stand above the top ; 
then pour melted muttonsuet over the top, full half | 
an inch thick, having previously covered the fruit 
with white paper. Keep the jars in a cold dry place, 
and use the suet as a cover, which you will draw 
up by the stick ; minding to leave a little forked 
branch to it .to prevent its slipping out. 

Observations on Sweetmeats, 

Sweetmeats should be kept in a very dry place. 
Unless they have a very small proportion of sugar, 
a warm one does not hurt ; but when not properly 
boilecjl, that is, long enough, but not quick, heat 
makes them ferment, and damp causes them to grow 
mouldy. They should be looked at two or three 
times in the first two months, that they may be 
gently boiled again, if not likely to keep, 



FRUITS. 191 

It is necessary to observe, that sugar being boiled 
more or less, constitutes the chief art of the confec- 
tioner ; and those who are not practised in this know- 
ledge, and only preserve in a plain way for family 
use, are not aware that, in two or three minutes, a 
syrup over the fire will pass from one gradation to 
another, called, by the confectioners, degrees of 
boiling, of which there are six, and those subdivided. 
But I am not versed in the minutia ; and only make 
the observation to guard against under boiling, 
which prevents sweetmeats from keeping ; and 
quick boiling and long, which brings them lo candy. 

Attention, without much practice, will enable a 
person to do any of the following sorts of sweet- 
meats, &c. and they are as much as is wanted in a 
private family ; and the higher articles of preserved 
fruits may be bought at less expense than made. 

A pan should be kept for the purpose of preserv- 
ing, of double blocktin. A bow handle opposite 
the straight one, for safety, will do very well ; and, 
if put by nicely cleaned, in a dry place, when done 
with, will ]ast for several years. Those of copper 
or brass are improper, as the tinning wears out by 
the scraping of the sweetmeat ladle. There is a 
new sort of iron, with a strong tinning, which prom- 
ises to wear long. Sieves and spcons should be 
kept likewise for sweet things. 

To clarify Sugar. 
Break as much as required in large lumps, and 
put a pound to half a pint of water, in a bowl, and 

it will dissolve better than when broken small. Set 
T 



192 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

it over the fire, and the wellwhipt white of an egg : 
let it boil up, and, when ready to run over, pour a 
little cold water in it to give it a check ; but when 
it rises a second time, take it off the fire, and set it 
by in the pan for a quarter of an hour : during 
which time the foulness will sink to the bottom, and 
leave a black scum on the top ; which take off 
gently with a skimmer, and pour the syrup into a 
vessel very quickly from the sediment. 
To dry Cherries, ivi'h Sugar. 

Stone six pounds of Kentish ; put them into a 
preservingpan, with two pounds of loaf sugar 
pounded and strewed among them : simmer till 
they begin to shrivel, then strain them from the 
juice ; lay them on a hot hearth, or in an oven, 
when either are cool enough to dry without baking 
them. 

The same syrup will do another six pounds of 
fruit. 

To dry Cherries without Sugar. 

Stone and set them over the fire in the preserv- 
ingpan : let them simmer in their own liquor, and 
shake them in the pan. Put them by in China 
common dishes. Next day give them another 
scald, and put them, when cold, on sieves to dry, 
in an oven of attempered heat as above. Twice 
heating, an hour each time, will do them. 

Put them in a box, with a paper between each 
layer. 



FRUITS. 193 

Excellent Sweetmeats for Tarts i when Fruit is 
plentiful. 

Divide two pounds of apricots when just ripe, and 
take out and break the stones. Put the kernels 
without their skins to the fruit : add to it three 
pounds of green gageplums, and two pounds 
and a half of lump sugar. Simmer until the fru^t 
be a clear jam. The sugar should be broken in 
large pieces, and just dipped in water, and added 
to the fruit over a slow fire. Observe that it does 
not boil, and skim it well. If the sugar be clarified 
it will make the jam better. 

Put it into small pots ; in which, all sweetmeats 
keep best. 

Currantjelly, red or black. 
Strip the fruit, and in a stonejar stew them in 
a saucepan of water, or by boiling it on the hot 
hearth ; strain off the liquor, and to every pint 
weigh a pound of loaf sugar. Put the latter in 
large lumps into it, in a stone or China vessel, till 
nearly dissolved ; then put it in a preservingpan. 
Simmer and skim as necessary. When it will jelly 
on plate, put it in small jars or glasses. 

Raspberry Jam. 
Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar. Put 
the former into a preservingpan ; boil and break 
it ; stir constantly, and let it boil very quickly, 
When most of the juice is wasted, add the sugar, 
and simmer to a fine jam. 



194 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

This way the jam is greatly superior in colour 
and flavour to that which is made by putting the su- 
gar in at first. 

Rasfiberry Jam another way. 

Put the fruit in a jar into a kettle of water, or on 
a hot hearth, till the juice will run from it ; then 
take away a quarter of a pint from every pound of 
fruit. Boil and bruise it half an hour, then put in 
the weight of the fruit in sugar, and, adding the 
same quantity of currantjuice, boil it to a strong 
jelly. 

The raspberryjuice will serve to put into brandy ; 
or may be boiled, with its weight in sugar, for mak- 
ing the jelly for raspberryice or cream. 

Rasfiberryjelly, for Ices or Creams. 

Do the fruit as directed for currantjelly, and 
use in the same proportion of sugar and liquor. 
Rasfiberry Cakes. 

Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the 
fruit : weigh and boil what quantity you please ; 
and wlien mashed, and the liquor is wasted, put to 
it sugar the weight of the fruit, you first put into 
the pan. Mix it well off the fire, until perfectly 
dissolved ; then -jjut it on China plates, and dry it 
in the sun. As soon as the top part dries, cut 
with the cover of a cannister into small cakes, turn 
them on fresh plates, and, when dry, put them in 
boxes with layers of paper. 

Afiricot Cheese. 

Weigh an equal quantity of pared fruit and 
sugar : wet the latter a very little^ and let it boil 



FRUITS. 195 

quickly, or the colour will be spoiled : blanch the 

kernels, and add to it. Twenty or thirty minutes 

will boil it. Put it in small pots or cups half filled. 

Afiricots or Peaches in Brandy. 

Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have 
ready a quarter of the weight of fine sugar in fine 
powder. Put the fruit into an icepot that shuts 
very close : throw the sugar over it, and then cover 
the fruit with brandy. Between the top and cover 
of the pot, put a piece of double cap paper. Set 
the pot into a saucepan of water till the brandy be 
as hot as you can possibly bear to put your finger 
in, but must not boil. Put the fruit into a jar, and 
pour the brandy on it. When cold, put a bladder 
over, and tie it down tight. 

Cherries in Brandy. 

Weigh the finest morellas, having cut off half 
the stalk : prick them with a new needle, and drop 
them into a jar or widemouthed bottle. Pound 
three quarters the weight of sugar or white candy : 
strew over, fill up with brandy, and tie a bladder 
over. 
To prefiare Oranges to fiut into Orange Puddings. 

Put twelve Seville oranges in water, and change 
them three days. Boil them in the least water till 
tender : scoop out the pulp, and pick out the ker- 
nels ; then, in a marble mortar, beat the oranges, 
then the pulp separately ; and, after, both together. 
To every pound put a pound and a half of sugar, 
pounded and sifted, and beat to a paste. Keep it 
t 2 



196 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

in small gallipots, and cover with white paper dip- 
ped m brandy. 

To dry Afiricots in half. 

Pare thin and halve four pounds of apricots, 
weighing them after : put them in a dish, and strew 
among them three pounds of sugar in the finest 
powder. When it melts, set the fruit over a stove 
to do very gently. As each piece becomes tender, 
take it out and put it into a China bowl. When 
all are done, and the boiling heat a little abated, 
pour the syrup over them. In a day or two re- 
move the syrup, leaving only a little in each half. 
In a day or two more turn them ; and so continue 
daily till quite dry, in the sun or a warm place. 
Keep in boxes with layers of paper. 

To fireserve Afiricots in Jelly. 

Pare the fruit very thin, and stone it. Weigh 
an equal quantity of sugar in fine powder and strew 
over it. Next day boil very gently till they are 
Clear : move them into a bowl, and pour the liquor 
over. The following: day pour the liquor to a 
quart of codlin liquor, made by boiling and strain- 
ing, and a pound of fine sugar : let it boil quickly 
till it will jelly : put the fruit into it, and give one 
boil ; and having skimmed well, put into Ismail 
-pots. 

•Apple jelly for the above, or any sort of Sweetmeats. 

Let apples be pared, quartered, and cored : put 

them into a stewpan with as much water as will 

cover them : boil as fast as possible. When the 



FRUITS. 197 

fruit is all in a mash, add a quart of water : boil 
half an hour more, and run through a jellybag. 

If in summer, codlins are best : in September, 
golden rennets or winter pippins. 

To preserve green Apricots. 

Lay vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of you* 
pan, then fruit, and so alternately till full, the up- 
per layer being thick with leaves ; then fill with 
spring water, and cover down, that no steam may 
come out. Set the pan at a distance from the fire, 
that in four or five hours they may be only soft, 
but not cracked. Make a thin syrup of some of 
the water, and drain the fruit. When both are 
cold, put the fruit into the pan and the syrup to it ; 
put the pan at a proper distance on the fire till the 
apricots green, but on no account boil or crack : 
remove them very carefully into a pan with the 
syrup for two or three days, then pour off as much 
of it as will be necessary, and boil with more sugar 
to make a rich syrup, and put a little sliced ginger 
into it. When cold, and the thin syrup has all 
been drained from the fruit, pour the thick over it. 
To fire serve Strawberries ivhole. 

Get the finest scarlets before they are too ripe, 
with their stalks kept on ; lay them separately on 
a China dish ; beat and sift twice their weight of 
doubly refined sugar over them ; then bruise a few 
ripe strawberries, with their weight of doubly re- 
fined sugar, in a China bason, cover it close, and set 
it in a saucepan of boiling water which will just 
hold it till the juice comes out and becomes thick ; 



1 

198 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

strain it through muslin into a sweetmeatpan, boil 
it up and skim it. When cold, put in the straw- 
berries, set them over a stove till milk warm, then 
take the pan off till they are cold, set them on 
again, and let them become rather hotter, and so 
for several limes till they become clear, but the 
hottest degree must not come to a boil. When 
cold, put them into glasses, and pour tlte syrup 
over. 

Another way. 

Take equal weight of the fruit and doubly re- 
fined sugar, lay the former in a large dish, and 
sprinkle half the sugar in fine powder over ; give 
a gentle shake to the dish, that the sugar may 
touch the under side of the fruit. Next day make 
a thin syrup with the remainder of the sugar, and 
instead of water, allow one pint of red currant 
juice to every three pounds of strawberries ; in 
this simmer them until sufficiently jellied. Choose 
the largest scarlets, or others, when not dead ripe, 
Cherry Jain. 

To twelve pounds of Kentish or Duke cherries, 
when ripe, weigh one pound of sugar ; break the 
stones of part and blanch them ; then put them to 
the fruits and sugar, and boil all gently till the jam 
come clear from the pan. Pour it into China plates 
to come up dry to table. Keep in boxes with 
white paper between. 

Orange Marmalade. 

Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the 
rinds very tender, and beat fine in a marble mortar. 



FRUITS. 199 

Boil three pounds of loaf sugar in a pint of water, 
skim it, and add a pound of the rind ; boil fast till 
the syrup is very thick, but stir it carefully ; then 
put a pint of the pulp and juice, the seeds having 
been removed, and a pint of apple liquor ; boil all 
gently until well jellied, which it will be in about 
half an hour. Put it into small pots. 
Lemon marmalade do in the same way. 

Quince Marmalade. \y^ 

Pare and quarter quinces, weigh anSqual quam 
tity of sugar ; to four pounds of the latter put a 
quart of water, boil, and skim, and keep ready 
against four pounds of quinces are tolerably ten- 
der by the following mode : lay them into a stone- 
jar, with a teacup of water at the bottom, and pack 
them with a little sugar strewed between ; cover 
the jar close, and set it on a stove or cool oven, 
and let them soften till the colour become red, 
then pour the fruit, syrup, and a quart of quince 
juice into a preserving pan, and boil all together 
till the marmalade be completed, breaking the 
lumps of fruit with the preservingladle. 

This fruit is so hard, that if it be not done a$ 
above, it requires a great deal of time. 

N. B. Stewing quinces in a jar, and then squeez- 
ing them through a cheesecloth, is the best meth- 
od of obtaining the juice to add as above. 
To dry Cherries ; the best way. 

To every five pounds of cherries stoned, weigh 
one of sugar doubly refined. Put the fruit into the 
preservingpan with very little water, both made 



200 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

scalding hot ; take the fruit immediately out and 
dry them, put them into the pan again, strewing 
the sugar between each layer of cherries ; let it 
stand to melt, then set the pan on the fire, and 
make it scalding hot as before ; take it off, and re- 
peat this thrice with the sugar. Drain them from 
the syrup, and lay them singly to dry on dishes, 
in the sun or on a stove. When dry, put them 
into a sieve, dip it into a pan of cold water, and 
draw it instantly out again, and pour them on a 
fine soft cloth ; dry them, and set them once more 
in the hot sun, or on a stove. Keep them in a box, 
with layers of white paper, in a dry place. 

This way is the best to give plumpness to the 
fruit, as well as colour and flavour. 

Observe. When any sweetmeats are directed 
to be dried in the sun or in a stove, it will be best 
in private families, where there is not a regular 
stove for the purpose, to place them in the sun on 
flag stones, which reflect the heat, and place a 
garden glass over them to keep insects off : or if 
put in an oven, to take care not to let it be too warm, 
and watch that they do properly and slowly. 
Gooseberry Jam, for Tarts. 

Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries, 
when ripe and gathered in dry weather, into a pre- 
servingpan with a pint of currantjuice, drawn as 
for jelly ; let them boil pretty quick, and beat them 
with the spoon ; when they begin to break, put to 
them six pounds of pure white Lisbon sugar, and 
simmer slowly to a jam. It requires long boiling, 



FRUITS. 201 

or will not keep ; but is an excellent and reasonable 
thing for tarts or puffs. Look at it in two or three 
days, and if the syrup and fruit separate, the whole 
must be boiled longer. Be careful it does not burn 
to the bottom. 

Another. 
Gather your gooseberries (the clear white or 
green sort) when ripe ; top and tail, and weigh 
them : a pound to three quarters of a pound of fine 
sugar, and half a pint of water ; boil and skim the 
sugar and water, then put the fruit, and boil gently 
till clear ; then break and put into small pots. 

White Gooseberry Jam. 
Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if 
you choose, when just ripe ; top and tail them. To 
each pound put three quarters of a pound of fine 
sugar, and half a pint of water. Boil and clarify 
the sugar in the water as directed under that arti- 
cle, then add the fruit ; simmer gently till clear, 
then break it, and in a few minutes put the jam 
into small pots. 

Barberries for Tartlets. 

Pick barberries, that have no stones, from the 
staks, and to every pound weigh three quarters of 
a pound of lump sugar. Put the fruit into a stone- 
jar, and either set it on a hot hearth or in a sauce- 
pan of water, and let them simmer very slowly till 
soft ; put them and the sugar into a preservingpan, 
and boil them gently fifteen minutes. 

Use no metal but silver. 



202 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Barberry Dro/ts. 

The black tops must be cut off, then roast the 
fruit before the fire, till soft enough to pulp with a 
silverspoon through a sieve into a China bason ; 
then set the bason on a saucepan of water, the top 
of which will just fit it, or on a hot hearth, and stir 
it till it grows thick. When cold, put to every pint 
one pound and a half of sugar, the finest doubly 
refined, pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve, 
which must be covered with a fine linen, to prevent 
its wasting while sifting. Beat the sugar and juice 
together three hours and a half if a large quantity, 
but two and a half for less : then drop it on sheets 
of white thick paper, the size of the drops sold in 
the shops. 

Some fruit is not so sour, and then less sugar is 
necessary. To know if there be enough, mix till 
well incorporated, and then drop : if it run, there 
is not enough sugar, and if there is too much it will 
be rough. A dry room will suffice to dry them. 
No metal must touch the juice but the point of a 
knife, just to take the drop off the end of the wood- 
enspoon, and then as little as possible. 

Ginger Drops, a good Stomachic. 

Beat two ounces of fresh candied orange in a 
mortar, with a little sugar, to a paste ; then mix 
one ounce of powder of white ginger with one 
pound of loaf sugar. Wet the sugar with a little 
water, and boil altogether to a candy, and drop it 
on paper the size of mint drops. 



FRUITS. 203 

Pefifier mint D rofis . 

Pound and sift four ounces of doubly refined su- 
gar, beat it with the whites of two eggs till perfectly 
smootli ; then add sixty drops of oil of peppermint, 
beat it well, and drop on white paper, and dry at a 
distance from the fire. 

Lemon Drops. 

Grate three large lemons, with a large piece of 
doubly refined sugar ; then scrape the sugar into 
a plate, add half a teaspoon ful of flour, mix well, 
and beat it into a light pa^te with the white of an 
e^g. Drop it upen white paper, and put them in- 
to a moderate oven on a tinplate. 

A beautiful Red, to s'ain Je/l'es, Ices or Cakes. 

Boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest pow- 
der, with a drachm and a half of cream of tartar, in 
half a pint of water, very slowly, half an hour. 
Add in boiling a bit of alum the size of a pea. Or 
use beetroot sliced, and some liquor poured over. 

For white, use almonds, finely powdered, with a 
little drop of water ; or use cream. 

For yellow, yelks of eggs, or a bit of saffron 
steeped in the liquor and squeezed. 

For green, pound spinachleaves, or beetleaves, 
express the juice, and boil in a teacupfulin a sauce- 
pan of water, to take off the rawness. 

Damson Cheese. 
Bake or boil the fruit in a stonejar, in a sauce- 
pan of water, or on a hot hearth. Pour off some 
of the juice, and to every two pounds of fruit, weigh 
half a pound of sugar. Set the fruit over a. fire in 
u 



204 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

the pan, let it boil quickly till it begins to look dry ; 
take out the stones and add the sugar, stir it well 
in, and simmer two hours slowly, then boil it 
quickly half an hour, till the sides of the pan can- 
dy ; pour the jam then into pottingpans or dishes, 
about an inch thick, so that it may cut firm. If 
the skins be disliked, then the juice is not to be 
taken out ; but after the first process,the fruit is to 
be pulped through a very coarse sieve with the 
juice, and managed as above. The stones are to 
be cracked, or some of them, and the kernels boil- 
ed in the jam. All the juice may be left in and 
boiled to evaporate, but do not add the sugar until 
it has done so. The above looks well in shapes. 
Biscuit of Fruit. 
To the pulp of any scalded fruit, put equal weight 
of sugar sifted,, beat it two hours, then put it into 
little white paper forms : dry in a cool oven, turn 
the next day, and in two or three days box them. 

Magnum Bonum Plums. Excellent as a Sweet- 
meat, or in Tarts, though very bad to eat raw. 
Prick them with a needle, to prevent bursting, 
simmer them very gently in a thin syrup ; put them 
in a China bowl, and when cold pour it over. Let 
them lie three days ; then make a syrup of three 
pounds of sugar to five of fruit, with no more wa- 
ter than hangs to large lumps of the sugar dipped 
quickly, and instantly brought out. Boil the plums 
in this fresh syrup, after draining the first from 
them. Do them very gently till they are clear, 
and the syrup adheres to them. Put them one by 
one into small pots, and pour the liquor over. 



FRUITS. 205 

Those you may like to dry, keep a little of the 
syrup for, longer in the pan, and boil it quickly, 
then give the fruit one more warm : drain, and put 
them to dry on plates, in a cool oven. These 
plums are apt to ferment, if not boiled in two 
syrups ; the former will sweeten pies, but will have 
too much acid to keep. You may reserve part of 
it, and add a little sugar, to do those that are to 
dry, for they will not require to be so sweet, as if 
kept wet, and will eat very nicely if only boiled as 
much as those. Do not break them. One parcel 
may be done after another, and save much sugar. 

To preserve Grapes in Branchj. 
. Put some close bunches, when ripe, but not over 
ready, into a jar : strew over them half their weight 
in white sugarcandy pounded : prick each grape 
once with a needle ; fill up with brandy, and tie 
close. They look beautifully in a dessert. 
Gooseberry Hops. 
Of the largest green walnut kind, take and cut 
the bud end in four quarters, leaving the stalk end 
whole: pick out the seeds, and with a strong needle 
and thread, fasten five or six together, by running 
the thread through the bottoms, till they are of the 
size of a hop. Lay vineleaves at the bottom of a 
tin preservin^pan : cover them with the hops, then 
a layer of leaves, and so on ; lay a good many on 
the top, then fill the pan with water. Stop it so close 
down that no steam can get out : set it by a slow 
fire till scalding hot ; then take it off till cold, and 
so do till on opening while cold, the gooseberries 



206 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

are of a good green. Then drain them on sieves, 
and make a thin syrup of a pound of sugar, to a 
pint of water, boil, and skim it well ; when half 
cold, put in the fruit, next day give it one boil ; do 
this thrice. If the hops are to be dried, which way 
they eat best, and look well, they may be set 
to dry in a week : but if to be kept wet, make a 
syrup in the above proportions, adding a slice of 
ginger in boiling ; when skimmed and clear, give 
the gooseberries one boil, and when cold, pour it 
over them. If the first syrup be found too sour, a 
little sugar may be added and boiled in it, before 
the hops that are for drying, have their last boil. 

The extra syrup will serve for pies, or go towards, 
other sweetmeats. 

A Carmel Cover for Sweetmeats. 

Dissolve eight ounces of double refined sugar in 
three or four spoonfuls of water, and three or four 
drops of lemonjuice ; then put it into a copper un- 
tinned skellet ; when it boils to be thick, dip the 
handle of a spoon in it, and put that into a pint- 
bason of water, squeeze the sugar from the spoon 
into it. and so on till you have all the sugar. Take 
a bit out of the water, and if it snaps, and is brittle 
when cold, it is done enough ; but only let it be 
three parts cold, when pour the water from the 
sugar, ^nd having a copper form oiled well, run 
the sugar on it, in the manner of a maze, and when 
cold you may put it on the dish it is to cover ; but 
if on trial the sugar is not brittle, pour off the 
water, and return it into the skellet and boil it again. 



FRUITS. 207 

It should look thick like treacle, but of a bright 
light gold colour. 

It is a most elegant cover. 

Transparent Marmalade. 
Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take 
the pulp out, and put it in a bason, pick out the 
seeds and skins Let the outsides soak in water 
with a little salt all night, then boil them in a good 
quantity of spring water till tender ; drain and cut 
them in very thin slices, and put them to the pulp ; 
and to every pound, a pound and a half of double 
refined sugar beaten fine ; boil them together 
twenty minutes, but be careful net to break the 
slices. If not quite clear, simmer five or six niin- 
*utes longer. It must be stirred all the time very 
gently. 

When cold, put it into glasses. 

To jircserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly. 
Cut a hole in the stalk part, the size of a shilling, 
and with a blunt small knife scrape out the pulp 
quite clear without cutting the rind. Tie each 
separately in muslin, and lay them in spring water 
two days, changing twice a day ; in the last boil 
them tender on a slow fire. Observe that t' ere is 
enough at first to allow for wasting, as they must 
be covered to the last. To every pound of orange, 
weigh two pounds of double refined sugaiv and one 
pint of water ; boil the two latter together with the 
juice of the orange to a syrup, and clarify it, skim 
well, and let it stand to be cold ; then boil the fruit 

¥2 



208 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

in the syrup half an hour ; if not clear, do this 
daily till they are done. 

Pare and core some screen pippins, and boil in 
water till it tastes strong of them ; do not break 
them, only gently press them with the back of a 
spoon. Strain the water through a jellybag till 
quite clear ; then to every pint put a pound of 
double refined sugar, the peel and juice of a lemon, 
and boil to a strong syrup. Drain off the syrup 
from the fruit, and turning the whole upwards in 
the jar, pour the applejelly over it. The bits cut 
out must go through the same process with the 
fruit. Cover with brandy paper. 
Orange Chifis. 

Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through 
a sieve ; soak the peel in water, next day boil in 
the same till tender, drain them, and slice the peels, 
put them to the juice, weigh as much sugar, and 
put all together into a broad earthen dish, and put 
over the fire at a moderate distance, often stirring 
till the chips candy ; then set them in a cool room 
to dry. They will not be so under three weeks. 
Orange Cakes. 

Cut Seville oranges in pieces, take out the seeds 
and skins, save the juice, and add to the meat of 
the fruit, after having beaten it quite fine in a mor- 
tar, in the proportion of a pound to a pound and a 
half of loaf sugar finely beaten first. When the 
paste is finely mixed, make it into small cakes, and 
dry them on China plates in a hot room, and turn 
them daily. Do not let them be too dry. 



FRUITS. 209 

They arc excellent for gouty stomachs, or for 
travellers. 

The peels of China oranges, soaked a night, then 
drained and boiled up in a syrup till enough to be 
tender, answer for common puddings extremely 
well, and are of no value ; whereas Seville are 
usually dear, and sometimes cannot be had. 
To preserve Morella Cherries. 

Gather them when full ripe, and perfectly dry, 
take off the stalks, and prick them with a new nee- 
dle to prevent bursting. Weigh to every pound, 
one and a half of sugar, beat part, and strew over 
them ; let them lie all night ; dissolve the rest in 
half a pint of currantjuice, set it over the fire, and 
put in the cherries, and sugar that hangs about 
them, give them a scald, then put them in a China 
bowl ; next day give them another scald, then take 
them carefully out, boil the syrup till it is thick, 
and pour it on them ; look at it in a day or two, and 
if too thin, boil it more, but gently. 

To keefi Lemonjuice. 
Buy the fruit when cheap, keep it in a cool place 
until the colour becomes very yellow : cut the peel 
off some, and roll them under your hand to make 
them part with the juice more readily ; others you 
may leave unpared for grating, when the pulp 
shall be be taken out and dried. Squeeze the juice 
into a China bason, then strain it through some 
linen which will not permit the least pulp to pass. 
Have ready some half and quarter ounce phials 
perfectly dry : fill them with the juice so near t« 



210 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

the top as only to admit half a teaspoonful of sweet- 
oil into each ; or a little more, if for larger bottles. 
Cork the bottles, and set them upright in a cool 
place. 

When you want lemonjuice, open such a sized 
bottle as you shall use in two or three days, wind 
some clean cotton round a skewer, and dipping it 
in, the oil will be attracted ; and when all shall 
be removed, the juice will be as fine as when first 
bottled. 

The peels hang up till dry, then keep them from 
the dust. 

Ice .Waters. 

Rub some fine sugar on lemon, or orange, to 
give the colour and flavour ; then squeeze the juice 
of either on its respective peel : add water and 
sugar, to make a fine sherbet, and strain it before 
it be put into the icepot. If orange, the greater 
proportion should be of the Chinajuice, and only a 
little of Seville, and a small bit of the peel grated 
by the sugar. 

Currant, or Ras fib erry water Ice. 
The juice of these, or any other sort of fruit, 
being gained by squeezing, sweetened and mixed 
with water, will be ready for icing. 
Ice Creams. 
Mix the juice of the fruits with as much sugar 
as will be wanted, before you add cream, which 
should be of a middling richness. Under the ar- 
ticle of fruits is given a mode of preparing juice 
for ice, 



ICES. 211 

Brown Bread Ice. 
Grate as fine as possible stale brown bread, soak 
a small proportion in cream two or three hours, 
sweeten and ice it. 

To make the Ice. 

Get a few pounds of ice, break it almost to pow- 
der, throw a large handful and a half of salt among 
it. You must prepare it in a part of the house 
where as little of the warm air comes as you can 
possibly contrive. The ice and salt being in a 
bucket, put your cream into an ice pot, and cover 
it ; immerse it in the ice, and draw that round the 
pot, so as to touch every possible part. In a few 
minutes put a spatula or spoon in, and stir it well, 
removing the parts that ice round the edges to the 
centre. If the icecream or water be in a form, 
shut the bottom close, and move the whole in the 
ice, as you cannot use a spoon to that without dan- 
ger of waste. 

Note. When any fluid tends towards cold, the 
moving it quickly accelerates the cold ; and like- 
wise, when any fluid is tending to heat, stirring it 
will facilitate its boiling. 

Icing for Tarts. 
Beat the yelk of an egg and some melted butter 
well together, wash the tarts with a feather, and 
sift sugar over as you put them in the oven. Or 
beat white of egg : wash the paste, and sift white 
iugar. 



212 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Icing for Cakes. 
For a large one, beat and sift eight ounces of fine 
sugar, put into a mortar with four spoonfuls of rose 
water, and the whites of two eggs beaten and 
strained, whisk it well, and when the cake is almost 
cold, dip a feather in the icing, and cover the cake 
well ; set it in the oven to harden, but do not let it 
stay *.o discolour. Put the cake in a dry place. 

CAKES. 
Observations on making and baking Cakes. 

Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in 
a cloth, and then set before the fire. If damp they 
will make cakes or puddings heavy. Before they are 
added, a dust of dry flour should be thrown among 
them, and a shake given to them, which causes the 
thing that they are put to, to be lighter. 

Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and 
yelks apart, and always strained. 

Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on a clean 
board, and sifted through a very fine hair or lawn 
sieve. 

Lemonpeel should be pared very thin, and with 
a little sugar beaten in a marble mortar to a paste, 
and then mixed with a little wine, or cream, so as 
to divide easily among the other ingredients. 

After all the articles are put into the pan, they 
should be thoroughly and long beaten, as the light- 
ness of the cake depends much on their being well 
incorporated. 

Whether black or white plumcakes, they require 
less butter and eggs for having yeast, and eat equal- 



CAKES. 213 

ly light and rich. If the leaven be only of flour, 
milk and water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, 
and is less easily divided, and if the butter be first 
put with those ingredients, and the dough after- 
wards set to rise by the fire. 

The heat of the oven is of great importance for 
cakes, especially those that are large. If not pretty 
quick, the batter will not rise. Should you fear its 
catching by being two quick, put some paper over 
the cake to prevent its being burnt. If not long 
enough lighted to have a body of heat, or it is be- 
come slack, the cake will be heavy. To know 
when it is soaked, take a broad bladed knife that is 
very bright, and plunge into the very centre, draw 
it instantly out, and if the least stickiness adheres, 
put the cake immediately in, and shut up the oven. 

If the heat was sufficient to raise, but not to soak, 
I have with great success had fresh fuel quickly 
put in, and kept the cakes hot till the oven was fit 
to finish the soaking, and they turned out extreme- 
ly well. But those who are employed, ought to be 
particularly careful that no mistakes occur from 
negligence when large cakes are to be baked. 

Plumcakr. 
Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour, 
well dried with a pound of dry and sifted loaf su- 
gar, three pounds of currants washed, and very dry, 
half a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a quar- 
ter of an ounce of mace and cloves, twenty Jamaica 
peppers, a grated nutmeg, the peel of a lemon cut 



214 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

as fine as possible, and half a pound of almonds 
blanched, and beaten with orange flour water. 
Melt two pounds of butter in a pint and a quarter 
of cream, but not hot, put to it a pint of sweet wine, 
a glass of brandy, the whites and yelks of twelve 
eggs beaten apart, and half a pint of good yeast. 
Strain this liquid by degrees into the dry ingre- 
dients, beating them together a full hour, then but- 
ter the hoop, or pan, and bake it. As you put the 
batter into the hoop, or pan, throw in plenty of 
citron, lemon, arid orangecandy. 

If you ice the cake, take half a pound of double 
refined sugar sifted, and put a little with the white 
of an egg, beat it well, and by degrees pour in the 
remainder. It must be whisked near an hour, 
with the addition of a little orange flour water, but 
mind not to put much. When the cake is done, 
pour the iceing over, and return it to the oven for 
fifteen minutes ; but if the oven be warm, keep it 
near the mouth, and the door open j lest the colour 
be spoiled. 

Another Plumcake. 

Flour dried, and currants washed and picked, 
four pounds, sugar pounded and sifted one pound 
and a half, six orange, lemon, and citronpeels, cut 
in slices ; mix these. 

Beat ten eggs, yelks and whites separately ; then 
melt a pound and a half of butter in a pint of 
cream ; when lukewarm put it to half a pint of ale 
yeast, near half a pint of sweet wine, and the eggs ; 



CAKES. 215 

then strain the liquid to the dry ingredients, beat 
them well, and add of cloves, mace, cinnamon and 
nutmeg, half an ounce each. Butter the pan, and 
put it into a quick oven. Three hours will bake it. 
A very fine Cake. 
Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in 
water first, and then in rosewater ; beat the butter 
to a cream : beat twenty eggs, yelk and whites 
separately, half an hour each. Have ready two 
pounds and a half of the finest flour, well dried, 
and kept hot, likewise a pound and a half of sugar 
pounded and sifted, one ounce of spice in finest pow- 
der, three pounds of currants nicely cleaned and dry, 
half a pound of almonds blanched, and three quar- 
ters of a pound of sweetmeats cut not too thin. Let 
all be kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingredients ; 
pour the eggs strained to the butter ; mix half a 
pint of sweet wine with a large glass of brandy, 
pour it to the butter and eggs, mix well, then have 
all the dry things put in by degrees ; beat them 
very thoroughly ; you can hardly do it too much. 
Having half a pound of stoned jar rajsins chopped 
as fine as possible, mix them carefully, so that 
there shall be no lumps. Beat the ingredients to- 
gether a full hour at least. Have a hoop well but- 
tered, or if you have none, a tin, or copper cakepan ; 
take a white paper, doubled and buttered, and put 
in the pan round the t^e^ if the cake batter fill it 
more than three parts, for space should be allow- 
ed for rising. Bake in a quick oven. It will re« 
quire three hours. 
w 



216 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

An excellent and less expensive Cake. 

Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of 
butter, washed in plain and rosewater, mix it with 
three spoonfuls of yeast in a little warm milk and 
water. Set it to rise an hour and a half before the 
fire, then beat into it two pounds of currants, one 
pound of sugar sifted, four ounces of almonds, six 
ounces of stoned raisins, chopped fine, half a nut- 
meg, cinnamon, allspice, and a few cloves, the peel 
of a lemon chopped as fine as possible, a glass of 
wine, ditto of brandy, twelve yelks and whites 
of eggs beat separately, and long; orange, citron, 
and lemon. Beat exceedingly well, and butter the 
pan. A quick oven. 

A very good Common Cake. 

Rub eight ounces of butter into two pounds of 
dried flour, mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast 
that is not bitter, to a paste. Let it rise an hour 
and a half ; then mix in the yelks and whites of 
six eggs beaten apart ; one pound of sugar, some 
milk to make it a proper thickness, (about a pint 
will be sufficient,) a glass of sweet wine, the rind 
of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of ginger. Add either 
a pound and a half of currants, or some carraways, 
and beat well. 

A cheafi Seed Cake. 

Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with half a 
pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, 
and a little ginger ; melt three quarters of a pound 
of butter with half a pint of milk ; when just warm, 
put to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and work up 



eAKEs. 217 

to a good dough. Let it stand before the fire a 
few minutes before it goes to the oven ; add seeds, 
or currants, and bake an hour and a half. 
Another. 

Mix a pound and a half of flour, and a pound of 
common lump sugar, eight eggs beaten separately, 
an ounce of seeds, two spoonfuls of yeast, and the 
same of milk and water. 

Aote. Milk alone causes cake and bread soon to 
dry. 

Common Bread Cake. 

Take the quantity of a quartern loaf from the 
dough when making white bread, and knead well 
into it two ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, 
and eight of currants. Warm the butter in a tea- 
cupful of good milk. 

By the addition of an ounce of butter, or sugar, 
or an egg or two, you may make the cake better. 
A teacupful of raw cream improves it much. It is 
best to bake it in a pan, rather than as a loaf, the 
outside being less hard. 

A good Pound Cake. 

Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with 
it the whites and yelks of eight eggs beaten apart, 
Have ready warm by the fire, a pound of flour, and 
the same of sifted sugar, mix them and a few 
cloves, a little nutmeg and cinnamon in fine powder 
together ; then by degrees work the dry ingredients 
into the butter and eggs. When well beaten, add 



218 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

a glass of wine, and some carraways. It must be 
beaten a full hour. Butter a pan, and bake it a 
full hour in a quick oven. 

The above proportions, leaving out four ounces 
of the butter, and the same of sugar, make a less 
luscious cake. 

Queen Cakes. 

Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted 
Sugar, and of washed clean currants. Wash a 
pound of butter in rosewater, beat it well, then 
mix with it eight eggs, yelks and whites beaten 
separately, and put in the dry ingredients by de- 
grees ; beat the whole an hour ; butter little tins, 
teacups, or saucers, and bake the batter in, filling 
only half. Sift a little fine sugar over just as you 
put into the oven. 

Queen Cakes, another way. 

Beat eight ounces of butter, and mix with two 
well beaten eggs, strained ; mix eight ounces of 
dried flour, and the same of lump sugar, and the 
grated rind of a lemon, then add the whole togeth- 
er, and beat full half an hour with a silver spoon. 
Butter small pattypans, half fill, and bake twenty 
minutes in a quick oven. 

A Common Cake. 

Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half 
a pound of butter, four ounces of sugar, four eggs, 
half an ounce of carraways, and a glass of raisin 
wine. Beat it well, and bake it in a quick oven. 
Fine Lisbon sugar will do. 



CAKES. 219 

Shrewsbury Cakes. 

Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinna- 
mon, and a nutmeg grated, into three pounds of 
flour, the finest sort ; add a little rosewater to 
three eggs, well beaten, and mix these with the 
flour, Sec then pour into it as much butter melted 
as will make it a good thickness to roll out. 

Mould it well, and roll thin, and cut it into such 
shapes as you like. 

Little white Cakts. 

Dry half a pound of flour, rub into it a very little 
pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, one egg, a few 
carraways, and as much milk and water as to make 
a paste ; roll it thin, and cut it with the top of a 
cannister or glass. Bake fifteen minutes on tin 
plates. 

Tea Cakes. 

Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces 
of flour ; mix eight ounces of currants, and six of 
fine Lisbon sugar, two yelks and one white of eggs, 
and a spoonful of brandy. Roll the paste the 
thickness of an Oliver biscuit, and cut with a 
wineglass. You may beat the other white, and 
wash over them ; and either dust sugar, or not, 
as you like. 

Little short Cakes. 

Rub into a pound of dried Hour four ounces of 
butter, four ounces of white powder sugar, one egg, 
and a spoonful or two of thin cream to make into a 
w 2 



220 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

paste. When mixed, put currants into one half, 
and carraways into the rest. Cut them as before, 
and bake on tins. 

Very good common Plum Cakes. 

Mix five ounces of butter in three pounds of dry 
flour, and five ounces of fine Lisbon sugar ; add six 
ounces of currants, washed and dried, and some 
pimento finely powdered. Put three spoonfuls of 
yeast into a Winchester pint of new milk warmed, 
and mix into a light dough with the above. Make 
it into twelve cakes, and bake on a floured tin half 
an hour. 

Benton Tea Cakes. 

Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and 
milk ; roll as thin as possible, and bake on a back- 
stone over the fire, or on a hot hearth. 
Another sort, as Biscuit. 

Rub into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, 
and three large spoonfuls of yeast, and make into a 
paste, with a sufficient quantity of new milk ; make 
into biscuit, and prick them with a clean fork. 

Another sort. 
Melt six or seven ounces of butter with a suffic- 
iency of new milk warmed to make seven pounds 
of flour into a stiff paste : roll thin, and make 
into biscuit. 

Hard Biscuit. 
Warm two ounces of butter in as much skim- 
med milk as will make a pound of flour into a very 



CAKES. 221 

stiff paste, beat it with a rollingpin, and work it very 
smooth. Roll it thin, and cut it into round biscuit; 
prick them full of holes with a fork. About six 
minutes will bake them. 

Flat Cakes, that will keep long in the house good. 

Mix two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, 
and one ounce of carraways, with four or five e^gs, 
and a few spoonfuls of water to make a stiff paste ; 
roll it thin, and cut into any shape. Bake on tins 
lightly floured. While baking, boil a pound of 
sugar in a pint of water to a thin syrup ; while 
both are hot, dip each cake into it, and put them 
on tins into the oven to dry for a short time ; and 
when the oven is cooler still, return them therjk 
again, and let them stay four or five hours. 
Plain and very crisfi Biscuit. 

Make a pound of flour, the yelk of an eg^, and 
some milk, into a very stiff paste ; beat it well, and 
knead till quite smooth ; roll very thin, and cut 
into biscuit. Bake them in a slow oven till quite 
dry and crisp. 

Little Plumcakes, to keep, long. 

Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces 
of finely pounded sugar, beat six ounces of butter 
to a cream, and add to three eggs, well beaten, 
half a pound of currants washed, and nicely dried, 
and the flour and sugar ; beat all for some time, 
then dredge flour on tin plates, and drop the batter 
on them the size of a walnut. If properly mixed, 
it will be a stiff paste. Bake in a brisk oven. 



222 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Beat seven eggs well, and mix with half a pint 
of new milk, in which! has been melted four ounces 
of butter ; add to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, 
and three ounces of sugar, and put them, by de- 
grees, into as much flour as will make a very light 
paste, rather like a batter, and let it rise before the 
fire half an hour ; then add some more flour to 
make it a little stiffer, but not stiff. Work it well 
and divide itjnto small loaves or cakes, about five 
or six inches wide, and flatten them. When baked 
and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks, and put 
them in the oven to brown a little. 
£ Note. The cakes, w T hen first baked, eat deli- 
ciously buttered for tea ; or with carraways to eat 
cold. 

J* Biscuit Cake. 
One pound of flour, five eggs well beaten and 
strained, eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or 
orange flower water ; beat the whole thoroughly, 
and bake one hour. 

Cracknuts. 
Mix eight ounces of flour, and eight ounces of 
sugar ; melt four ounces of butter in two spoonfuls 
of raisin wine ; then with four eggs beaten and 
strained, make into a paste ; add carraways, roll 
out as thin as paper, cut with the top of a glass, 
wash with the white of an egg, and dust sugar 
over. 



CAKES. 223 

Water Cukes. 

Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it 
one pound of sugar sifted, one pound of butter, and 
one ounce of carraway seed. Make into a paste 
with three quarters of a pint of boiling new milk, 
roll very thin, and cut into the size you choose ; 
punch full of holes, and bake on tin plates in a cool 
oven. 

Cracknels. 

Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, 
the yelks of four eggs beaten with four spoonfuls 
of ro^ewater, into a stiff paste, with cok' water; 
then roll in a pound of butter, and make thtm into 
a cracknel shape ; put them into a k<. trie of boiling 
water, and boil them till they swim, t! en take out, 
and put them into cold water ; when hardened) lay 
them out to dry, and bake them on tin plates. 
Bice Cake. 

Mix ten ounces of ground rice, three ounces of 
flour, eight ounces of pounded sugar ; then sift by 
degrees into eight yelks and six whites of eggs, 
and the peel of a lemon shred so fine that it is quite 
mashed. Mix the whole well in a tin stewpan 
over a very slow fire with a whisk, then put it im- 
mediately into the oven in the same, and bake for- 
ty minutes. 

Another Rice Cake. 

Beat twelve yelks and six whites of eggs with 
the peels of two lemons grated. Mix one pound 
of flour of rice, eight ounces of flour, and one pound 
of sugar pounded and sifted ; then beat it well with 



224 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

the eggs by degrees, for an hour, with a wooden 
spoon. Butter a pan well ; and put it in at the 
oven mouth. 

A gentle oven will bake it in an hour and a half. 
S/iunge Cake. 

Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine 
sugar, and that of six in flour ; beat the yelks with 
the flour, and the whites alone to a very stiff froth ; 
then by degrees mix the whites and the -flour with 
the other ingredients, and beat them well half an 
hour. Bake in a quick oven an hour. 

Another^ nuitfiout Butter, 

Dry one pound of flour, and one and a quarter 
of sugar ; beat seven eggs, yelks and whites apart; 
grate a lemon, and with a spoonful of brandy, beat 
the whole together with your hand for an hour- 
Bake in a buttered pan, in a quick oven. 

Sweetmeats may be added if approved. 
Macaroons. 

Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with 
four spoonfuls of orange flovver water; whisk the 
white of four eggs to a froth, then mix it, and a 
pound of sugar, sifted, with the almonds to a paste ; 
and laying a sheet of wafer paper on a tin, put it on 
in different little cakes the shape of macaroons. 
Wafers. 

Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix 
a little pounded sugar and finely pounded mace 
with it, then make it into a ttiick batter with 
cream ; butter the wafer irons, let them be hot* 



CAKES. 225 

put a teaspoonful of the batter into them, so bake 
them carefully, and roll thtm off the iron with a 
stick. 

Tun bridge Cakes. 
Rub six ounces of butter quite fine into a round 
of flour, then mix six ounces of sugar, beat and 
strain two egos, and make with the above into a 
paste. Roll it very thin, and cut with the top of a 
glass ; prick them with a fork, and cover with car- 
raways.or wash with the white of an egg, and dust a 
little white sugar over. 

Gingerbread. 

Mix with two pounds of flour half a pound of 
treacle, three quarters of an ounce of carraways, 
one ounce of ginger finely sifted, and ten ounces of 
butter. 

Roll the paste into what form you please, and 
bake on tins. 

If you like sweetmeats, add orange candied ; it. 
may be added in small bits. 

Another sort. 
To three quarters of a pound of treacle beat one 
egg strained ; mix four ounces of brown sugar, 
half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace, all- 
spice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce, beaten as 
fine as possible ; coriander and carraway seeds, 
each a quarter of an ounce ; melt one pound of but- 
ter, and mix with the above ; and add as much 
flour as will knead into a pretty stiff paste ; then 
roll it out, and cut into cakes. 



226 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little 
time will bake them. 

Of some, drops maybe made. 

To make a good Gingerbread, without Butter, 
Mix two pounds of treacle, of orange, lemon, 
citron, and candied ginger, each four ounces, all 
thinly sliced, one ounce of coriander seeds, one 
ounce of carraways, and one ounce of beaten gin- 
ger, in as much flour as will make a soft paste ; lay 
it Jn cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a quick oven. 
Keep it dry in a covered earthen vessel, and it will 
be good for some months. 

Nose. If cake or biscuit be kept in paper or a 
drawer, the taste will be disagreeable. A pan and 
cover, or tureen, will preserve them long and moist. 
Or, if to be crisp, laying them before the fire will 
make them so. 

ji good plain Bun, that may be eaten with or without 
toasting and Butter, 
Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, 
four ounces of sugar, a nutmeg, or not, as you like, 
a few Jamaica peppers, a dessert spoonful of carra- 
ways ; put a spoonful or two of cream into a cup of 
yeast, and as much good milk as will make the 
above into a light paste. Set it to rise by a fire till 
the oven be ready. They will quickly bake ontins. 

Richer Buns. 
Mix one pound and a half of dried flour, with 
half a pound of sugar ; melt a pound and two 



CAKES. 227 

ounces of butter in a little warm water ; add six 
spoonfuls of rosewater, and knead the above into a 
light dough, with half a pint of yeast ; then mix five 
ounces of carraway comfits in, and put some on 
them. 

Muffins. 

Mix two pounds of flour with two eggs, two 
ounces of butter melted in a pint of milk, and four 
or five spoonfuls of yeast ; beat it thoroughly, and 
set it to rise two or three hours. Bake on a hot 
hearth in flat cakes. When done on one side turn 
them. 

Note. Muffins, rolls, or bread, if stale, may be 
made to taste new, by dipping in cold water, and 
toasting or heating in an oven, or Dutch oven, till 
the outside be crimp. 

French Rolls. 

Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour, 
mix one cge; beaten, a little yeast that is not bitter, 
and as much milk as will make a dough of a mid- 
dling stiffness. Beat it well, but do not knead ; let 
it rise, and bake on tins. 

Brentford Rolls. 

Mix with two pounds of flour a little salt, two 
ounces of sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and 
two eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast, and 
about a pint of milk. Knead the dough well, and 
set it to rise before the fire. Make twelve rolls, 
butter tin plates, and set them before the fire to 
rise till they become a proper size ; then bake 
half an hour. 

x 



228 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Excellent Rolls. 

Warm one ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, 
put to it a spoonful and half of yeast of small beer, 
and a little salt. Put two pounds of flour into a 
pan, and mix in the above. Let it rise an hour ; 
knead it well ; and make into seven rolls, and bake 
in a quick oven. 

If made in cakes three inches thick, sliced and 
buttered, they resemble Sally Lumm's as made at 
Bath. 

The foregoing receipt, with the addition of a lit- 
tle saffron, boiled in half a teacupful of milk, makes 
remarkably good 

Saffron cakes^ to eat hot with butter. 

Potatoe Butter. 

Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruise and work 
them with two ounces of butter, and as much milk 
as will make them pass through a colander. Take 
half or three quarters of a pint of yeast, and half a 
pint of warm water, mix with the potatoes, then 
pour the whole upon five pounds of flour, and add 
some salt. Knead it well ; if not of a proper con- 
sistence, put a little more milk and water warm. 
Let it stand before the fire an hour to rise. Work 
it well, and make into rolls. Bake about half an 
hour in an oven not quite so hot as for bread. 

They eat well toasted and buttered. 
Yorkshire Cake. 

Take two pounds of flour, and mix with it four 
ounces of butter melted in a pint of good milk, 
three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs ; beat all 
well together, and let it rise ; then nead it, and 



CAKES. 229 

make into cakes ; let them rise on tins before you 
bake, which do in a slow oven. 

Another sort is made as above, leaving out the 
butter. 

The first sort is shorter ; the last lighter. 
French Bread. 

With a quarter of a peck of fine flour mix the 
yelks of three and whites of two eggs, beaten and 
strained, a little salt, half a pint of good yeast that 
is not bitter, and as much milk, made a little 
warm, as will work into a thin light dough. Stir it 
about, but do not knead it. Have ready three quart 
wooden dishes, divide the dough among them, set 
to rise, then turn them out into the oven, which 
must be quick. Rasp when done. 
To make Yeast. 

Thicken two quarts of water, with fine flour about 
three spoonfuls ; boil half an hour, sweeten with 
near half a pound of brown sugar ; when near cold, 
put into it four spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug, 
shake it well together, and let stand one day to 
ferment near the fire, without being covered. 
There will be a thin liquor on the top, which must 
be poured off, shake the remainder, and cork it up 
for use. Take always four spoonfuls of the old to 
ferment the next quantity, keeping it always in 
succession. 

An half peck loaf will require about a gill. 
Another way. 

Boil one pound of potatoes to a mash, when half 
cold add a cupful of yeast, and mix it well. It 



230 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

will be ready for use in two or three hours, and 
keeps well. * 

Use a double quantity of this to what you do of 
beer yeast. 

To take off the bitter of yeast, put bran into a 
sieve, and pour it through. 

To preserve Yeast. 

When you have plenty of yeast begin to save it 
in the following manner ; whisk it until it becomes 
thin, then get a large wooden dish, wash it very 
nicely, and when quite dry, lay a layer of yeast 
over the inside with a soft brush ; let it dry, then 
put another layer in the same manner, and so do 
until you have a sufficient quantity, observing that 
each coat dry thoroughly before another be added. 
It may be put on two or three inches thick, and 
will keep several months ; when to be used cut a 
piece out ; stir it in warm water. 

If to be used for brewing, keep it by dipping 
large, handfuls of birch tied together ; and when 
dry, repeat the dipping once. You may thus do 
as many as you please ; but take care that no 
dust comes to them, or the vessel in which it has 
been prepared as before. When the wort be set 
to work, throw into it one of these bunches, and it 
will do as well as with fresh yeast ; but if mixed 
with a small quantity first, and then added to the 
whole, it will work sooner. 

To pot Chetfte. 
Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, 
one ounce and a half of fine butter, a teaspoonful 



CHEESE AND EGGS. 231 

of white pounded sugar, a little bit of mace, and a 

glass of white wine. Press it down in a deep pot. 

To roast Cheese, to come ufi after dinner. 

Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix 
it with the yelks of two eggs, four ounces of grated 
bread, and four ounces of butter, beat the whole 
well in a mortar, with a teaspoon ful of mustard, 
and a little salt and pepper. Toast some bread, lay 
the paste as above thick upon it, put it into a Dutch 
oven, covered with a dish till hot through, remove 
the dish, and let the cheese brown a little. Serve 
as hot as possible. 

To poach Eggs. 

Set a stewpan of water on the fire ; when boiling, 
slip an egg, previously broken into a cup, into the 
water ; when the white looks done enough, slide 
an eggslice under the t^g, and lay it on toast and 
butter, or spinach. As soon as enough are done, 
serve hot. 



The servants of each country are generally ac- 
quainted with the best mode of managing the but- 
ter and cheese of that country ; but the following 
hints may not be unacceptable to give information, 
to the Mistress. 

DAIRY. 

The greatest possible attention must be paid to 
cleanliness. All the utensils must be daily scalded 

x2 



232 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

and brushed, washed in plenty of cold water, dried 
with clean cloths, and turned up in the air. 

The dairy should be kept perfectly clean and 
cool. 

In milking, if the cows be not left perfectly 
dry, the quantity will be decreased. The quantity 
depends on the goodness of different cows, on the 
pasture, and on the length of time from calving. 
A middling cow gives a pound of butter a day for 
five or six weeks, and sometimes longer. When 
the milk decreases, a change even to a worse pas- 
ture will effect an alteration ; and where water is 
within reach of the animals, it is of great conse- 
quence to the milk. 

The chief of the cows should come in the end of 
March, or the beginning of April, and one the end 
of September ; then the family will be supplied 
with milk in the winter. 

When a calf is to be reared, it should be taken 
from the cow in a week at furthest, or it will cause 
great trouble in rearing, because it will be difficult 
to make it take milk in a pan. The calf should be 
taken from the cow in the morning, and kept with- 
out food till next morning, when being hungry it 
will take it without much trouble. Skimmed milk 
made as warm as new, is to be given twice a day 
in such quantities as it shall require ; and if milk 
run short, a fine smooth gruel mixed with it will 
do very well. This is to be continued till the calf 
be taken out to grass, which at first will be only by 
day, then milk must be given when housed in the 
evening. 



DAIRY. 233 

To scald Cream. 

In winter the milk stands twenty four hours be- 
fore scalded ; in the summer twelve. The milk- 
pan is to be put on a hot hearth, if you have one, 
or if not, into a brasskettle of water, of a size to 
receive the pan. It must remain on the fire till 
quite hot, but on no account boil, or there will be 
a skin, instead of cream, upon the milk. You will 
know when done enough by the undulations on the 
surface, and looking quite thick. The time re- 
quired to scald cream depends on the size of the 
pan and the heat of the fire ; the slower the better. 
Remove the pan into the dairy when done, and 
skim it next day. 

Of cream thus prepared, the butter is usually 
made in Devonshire, See. 

Buttermilk. 

If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most 
wholesome food. Those who can relish sour but- 
termilk, find it still more light ; and it is reckoned 
more beneficial in some cases. 

To cure Afaioskins for Rennet. 

Cut the calf's stomach open, rub it well with 
salt, let it hang to drain two days, then salt it well, 
and let it lie in that pickle a month or more ; then 
take it out, drain, and flour it, stretch it out with a 
stick, and let it hang up to dry. 

A piece of this is to be soaked, and kept ready to 
turn the milk in cheesemaking time. 

Some lands make cheese of a better quality than 
the butter produced on them is. 



234 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

When the soil is poor, the cheese will want fat ; 
to remedy which, after pressing the whey from 
the curd, crumble it quite small, and work into it 
a pound of fine fresh butter ; then press, &c. as 
usual. 

Cream Cheese. 

Put five quarts of strippings, that is, the last of 
the milk, into a pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. 
When the curd is come, strike it down two or three 
times with the skimming dish just to break it. Let 
it stand two hours, then spread a cheesecloth on a 
sieve, put the curd on it, and let the whey drain ; 
break the curd a little with your hand, and put it 
into a vat with a two pound weight upon it. Let it 
stand twelve hours, take it out, and bind a fillet 
round. Turn every day till dry, from one board to 
another ; cover them with nettles, or clean dock- 
leaves, and put between two pewter plates to ripen. 
If the weather be warm, it will be ready in three 
weeks. 

Another. 

Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put five 
quarts of new milk into a pan, and Jive fiinrs of cold 
water, and Jive oi hot ; when of a proper heat, put 
in as much rennet as will bring it in twenty min- 
utes, likewise a bit of sugar. When come, strike 
the skimmer three or four times down, and leave 
it on the curd. In an hour or two lade it into the 
vat without touching it ; put a two pound weight 
on it when the whey has run from it, and the vat 
is full. 



DAIRY. 235 

Another sort. 
Put as much salt to three pints of raw cream 
as shall season it ; stir it well, and pour it into a 
sieve in which you have folded a cheesecloth three 
or four times, and laid at the bottom. When it 
hardens, cover it with nettles on a pewter plate. 

Rush Cream Cheese. 

To a quart of fresh cream, put a pint of new 
milk warm enough to make the cream a proper 
warmth, a bit of sugar and a little rennet. 

Set near the fire till the curd comes, fill a vat 
made in the form of a brick, of wheatstraw or rushes 
sewed together. Have ready a square of straw, or 
rushes sewed flat to rest the vat on, and another to 
cover it ; the vat being open at top and bottom. 
Next day take it out, and change it as above to 
ripen. A half pound weight will be sufficient to 
put on it. 

Another way. 

Take a pint of very thick sour cream from the 
top of the pan for gathering for butter, lay a napkin 
on two plates, and pour half into each, let them 
stand twelve hours, then put them on a fresh wet 
napkin in one plate, and cover with the same ; this 
do every twelve hours until you find the cheese 
begins to look dry, then ripen it with nutleaves ; 
it will be ready in ten days. 

Fresh nettles, or two pewter plates, will ripen 
cream cheese very well. 



236 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

To brew very fine Welsh Ale. 

Pour forty two gallons of water hot, but not quite 
boiling, on four bushels of malt, cover, and let it 
stand three hours. In the mean time infuse a 
pound and a half of hops in a little hot water, or 
two pounds if the ale is to be kept five or six 
months, and put water and hops into the tub, and 
run the wort upon them, and boil them together 
three hours. Strain off the hops, and keep for the 
small beer.. Let the wort stand in a high tub till 
cool enough to receive the yeast, of which put two 
quarts of ale, or if you cannot get it, of small beer 
yeast. Mix it thoroughly and often. When the 
wort has done working, the second or third day, the 
yeast will sink rather than rise in the middle, re- 
move it then, and turn the ale as it works out, pour 
a quart in at a time, and gently, to prevent the 
fermentation from continuing too long, which weak- 
ens the liquor. Put a bit of paper over the bunghole 
two or three days before stopping up. 
Strong Beer.) or Ale-. 

Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, 
eight for ale ; for either pour the whole quantity 
of water hot, but not boiling, on at once, and let it 
infuse three hours close covered ; mash it in the 
first half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the 
time. Run it on the hops previously infused in 
water ; for strong beer three quarters of a pound to 
a bushel, if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with 
the wort two hours from the time it begins to boil. 
Cool a pailful to add three quarts of yeast to, which 



HOME BREWERY. 237 

will prepare it for putting to the rest when ready 
next day ; but if possible, put together the same 
night. Tun as usual. Cover the bunghole with 
paper when the beer has done working ; and when 
it is to be stopped have ready a pound and a half 
of hops dried before the fire, put them into the 
bunghole, and fasten it up. 

Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve 
in bottles before it be drank. It will keep, and be 
very fine, eight or ten years. It should be brewed 
the beginning of March. 

Great care must be taken that bottles are per- 
fectly prepared, and that the corks are of the best 
sort. 

The ale will be ready in three or four months ; 
and if the ventpeg be never removed, it will have 
spirit and strength to the very last. Allow two 
gallons of water at first for waste. 

After the beer of ale is run from the grains, pour 
a hogshead and a half for the twelve bushels, and a 
hogshead of water if eight were brewed ; mash, 
and let stand, and then boil, &c. Use some of the 
hops for this table beer that were boiled for the 
strong beer. 

Excellent Table Beer. 

On three bushels of malt pour of hot water the 
third of the quantity you are to use, which is to be 
thirty nine gallons. Cover it warm half an hour, 
then mash, and let it stand two hours and a half 
more, then set it to drain. When dry, add half the 
remaining water, mash, and let it stand half an 



238 DOMESTIC CCOKERY. 

hour, run that into another tub, and pour the rest 
of the water on the malt, stir it well, and cover it, 
letting it infuse a full hour. Run that off, and mix 
all together. A pound and a quarter of hops should 
be infused in water, as in the former receipt, and 
be put into the tub for the first running. 

Boil the hops with the wort an hour from the 
time it first boils. Strain off, and cool. If the 
whole be not cool enough that day to add to the 
yeast, a pail or two of wort may be prepared, and 
a quart of yeast put to it over night. Before tun- 
ning, all the wort should be added together, and 
thoroughly mixed with the lade pail. When the 
wort ceases to work, put a bit of paper on the bung- 
hole for three days, when it may be safely fastened 
close. In three or four weeks the beer will be fit 
for drinking. 

Note. Servants should be directed to put a cork 
into every barrel as soon as the cock is taken out, 
the air causing casks to become musty. 

To refine Beer, Ale, Wine, or Cider. 
Put two ounces of isinglass shavings to soak in 
a quart of the liquor that you want to clear, beat it 
with a whisk every day till dissolved. Draw off a 
third part of the cask, and mix the above with it ; 
likewise a quarter of an ounce of pearlashes, one 
ounce of salt of tartar calcined, and one ounce of 
burnt alum powdered. Stir it well, then return the 
liquor into the cask, and stir it with a clean stick- 
Stop it up, and in a few days it will be fine. 



HOME BREWERY. 239 

To make excellent Coffee. See among sick Cookery. 
Orgeat. 

Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinna- 
mon, sweeten to your taste, and let grow cold; 
then pour it by degrees to three ounces of almonds, 
and twenty bitter, that have been blanched and 
beaten to a paste, with a little water to prevent 
oiling ; boil all together, and stir till cold, then add 
half a glass of brandy. 

Another way. 

Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of 
almonds, and thirty bitter, with a spoonful of wa- 
ter. Stir in by degrees two pints of water, and 
three of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth, 
Dissolve half a pound of line sugar in a pint of wa- 
ter, boil and skim it well ; mix it with the other, as 
likewise two spoonfuls of orange flower water, and 
a teacupful of the best brandy. 

Lemonade . To be made a day before wanted. 
Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin 
as possible, put eighteen of the rinds into three 
quarts of hot, not boiling water, and cover it over 
for three or four hours. Rub some fine sugar on 
the lemons to attract the essence, and put it into a 
China bowl, into which squeeze the juice of the 
lemons : to it add one pound and a half of fine 
sugar, then put the water to the above, and three 
quarts of milk made boiling hot ; mix, and pour 
through a jellybag till perfectly clear. 



240 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Another way. 

Pare a number of lemons according to the quan- 
tity you are likely to want ; on the peels pour hot 
"water, but more juice will be necessary than you 
need use the peels of. While infusing, boil sugar 
and water to a good syrup with the white of an egg 
whipt up. When it boils, pour a little cold water 
into it ; set it on again, and when it boils up take 
the pan off, and set it to settle. If there is any 
skum, take it off, and pour it clear from the sedi- 
ment to the water the peels were infused in, and 
the lemonjuice ; stir and taste it, and add as much 
more water as shall be necessary to make a very 
rich lemonade. Wet a jellybag, and squeeze it 
dry, then strain the liquor, which is uncommonly 
fine. 

Basfiberryvinegar. 

Put a pound of fine fruit into a China bowl, and 
pour upon it a quart of the best white wine vinegar ; 
next day strain the liquor on a pound of fresh rasp- 
berries ; and the following day do the same,<but do 
not squeeze the fruit, only drain the liquor as dry as 
you can from it. The last time pass it through a 
canvass previously wet with vinegar to prevent 
waste. Put it into a stonejar, witli a pound of su- 
gar to every pint of juice, broken into large lumps ; 
stir it when melted, then put the jar into a sauce- 
pan of water, or on a hot hearth, let it simmer, and 
skim it. When cold, bottle it. 

This is one of the most useful preparations that 
can be kept in a house, not only as affording the 



HOME BREWERY. 241 

most refreshingbeverage, but being of singular effi- 
cacy in complaints of the chest. A large spoon- 
ful or two in a tumbler of water. 

N. B. Use no glazed or metal vessel for it. 

JVbte. The fruit, with equal quantity of sugar, 
makes excellent raspberry cakes without boiling. 
Ra-hberryivine. 

To every quart of well picked raspberries put a 
quart of water ; bruise, and let them stand two 
days ; strain off the liquor, and to every gallon put 
three pounds of lump sugar ; when dissolved put 
the liquor in a barrel, and when fine, which will be 
in about two months, bottle it, and to each bottle 
put a spoonful of brandy, or a glass of wine. 
Raspberry^ or Cur rant wine. 

To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared 
from mouldy or bad, put one quart of water ; bruise 
the former. In twenty four hours strain the li- 
quor, and put to every quart a pound of sugar, a 
good middling quality of Lisbon If for white cur- 
rants, use lump sugar. It is best to put the fruit, 
Sec. in a large pan, and when in three or four days 
the skum rises, take that off before the liquor be 
put into the barrel. 

Those who make from their own gardens, may 
not have a sufficiency to fill the barrel at once. 
The wine will not be hurt if made in the pan, in 
the above proportions, and added as the fruit ripens, 
and can be gathered in dry weather. Keep an ac- 
count of what is put in each time. 



242 DOMESTIC 'cookery. 

Imjierial.. 

Put two ounces of cream of tartar, and the juice 
and paring of two lemons into a stonejar ; pour on 
them seven quarts of boiling water, stir and cover 
close. When cold, sweeten with loaf sugar, and 
straining it, bottle and cork it tight. 

This is a very pleasant liquor, and very whole- 
some ; but from the latter consideration was at one 
time drank in such quantities, as to become injuri- 
ous. Add, in bottling, half a pint of rum to the 
whole quantity. 

Excellent Gingerwine. 

Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, 
twelve pounds and a half of lump sugar, with the 
whites of six or eight ep-gs well beaten and strain- 
ed ; mix all well while cold ; when the liquor boils, 
skim it well ; put in half a pennd of common white 
ginger bruised, boil it twenty minutes. Have ready 
the very thin rinds of ten lemons, and pour the li- 
quor on them ; when cool, turn it with two spoon- 
fuls of yeast ; put a quart of the liquor to two 
ounces of isinglass shavings, while warm, whisk it 
well three or four times, and pour all together into 
the barrel. Next day stop it up ; in three weeks 
bottle, and in three months it will be a delicious 
and refreshing liquor ; and though very cool, per- 
fectly safe. 

Another for Gingerwine. 

Boil nine quarts of water with six pounds of 
lump sugar, the rinds of two or three lemons very 
thinly pared, with two ounces of bruised white gin- 



HOME BREWERY. 243 

ger half an hour; skim. Put three quarters of a 
pound of raisins into the cask ; when the liquor is 
lukewarm, tun it with the juice of two lemons 
strained, and a spoonful and a half of yeast. Stir it 
daily, then put in half a pint of brandy, and half an 
ounce of isinglass sha\ings ; stop it up, and bottle 
it six or seven weeks. Do not put the lemonpeel 
in the barrel. 

Alder wine : 

To every quart of berries put two quarts of water, 
boil half an hour, run the liquor, and break the fruit 
through a hair sieve ; then to every quart of juice, 
put three quarters of a pound of Lisbon sugar, not 
the very coarsest, but coarse. Boil the whole a 
quarter of an hour with some Jamaica peppers, 
ginger, and a few cloves. Pour it into a tub, and 
when of a proper warmth into the barrel, with toast 
and yeast to work, which there is more difficulty to 
make it do than most other liquors. When it ceases 
to hiss, put a quart of brandy to eight gallons, and 
stop up. Bottle in the spring or at Christmas. 
White Alderwine ; very much like Frontiniac . 

Boil eighteen pounds of white powder sugar, 
with six gallons of water, and two whites of eggs 
well beaten ; then skim it, and put in a quarter of a 
peck of alderflowers from the tree that bears white 
berries ; do not keep them on the fire. When 
near cold, stir it, and put in six spoonfuls of lemon- 
juice, four or five of yeast, and beat well into the 

liquor ; stir it every day ; put six pounds of the 
y 2 



244 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and tun the wine. 
Stop it close, and bottle in six months. 

When well kept, this wine will pass for Fronti- 
niac. 

Clary Wine. 

Boil fifteen gallons of water, with forty five pounds 
of sugar, skim it, when cool put a little to a quarter 
of a pint of yeast, and so by degrees add a little 
more. In an hour pour the small quantity to the 
large, pour the liquor on claryflowers, picked in the 
dry ; the quantity for the above is twelve quarts. 
Those who gather from their own garden may not 
have sufficient to put in at once, and may add as 
they can get them, keeping account of each quart. 
When it ceases to hiss, and the flowers are all in, 
stop it up for four months. Rack it off, empty 
the barrel of the dregs, and adding a gallon of the 
best brandy, stop it up, and let it stand six or eight 
weeks then bottle it. 

A rich and pleasant Wine. 

Take new cyder from the press, mix it with as 
much honey as will support an q%%^ boil gently fif* 
teen minutes, but not in an iron, brass, or copper 
pot. Skim it well ; when cool, let it be tunned, 
but do not quite fill. In March following bottle it, 
and it will be fit to drink in six weeks ; will be less 
sweet if kept longer in the cask. You will have a 
rich and strong wine, and it will keep well. This 
will serve for any culinary purposes which sack, 
or sweet wine, are directed for. 

Duhamel says, honey is a fine ingredient to assist, 
and render palatable, new crabbed austere cider. 



HOME BREWER V. 24>" 

Raisinwine, with Cider. 

Put two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into 
a cask, and pour upon them a hogshead oS. good 
sound cider that is not rough. Stir it well two or 
three days ; stop it, and let it stand six months ; 
then rack into a cask that it will fill, and put in a 
gallon of the best brandy. 

If raisinwine be much used, it would answer 
well to keep a cask always for it, and bottle off one 
year's wine just in time to make the next, which, 
allowing the six months of infusion, would make 
the wine to be eighteen months old. In cider 
countries this way is very economical ; and even if 
not thought strong enough, the addition of another 
quarter of a hundred of raisins would be sufficient, 
and the wine would still be very cheap. 

When the raisins are pressed through a horse- 
hair bag, they will either produce a very good spirit 
by distillation, and must be sent to a chymist who 
will do it (but if for that purpose, they must be very 
little pressed) ; or they will make excellent vine- 
gar, on which article seepage 116. 

The stalks should be picked off for the above, 
and may be thrown into any cask of vinegar that is 
making ; being very acid. 

Raisinwine, without Cider. 

On four hundred weight of Malagas pour one 
hogshead of spring water, stir well daily for four- 
teen days, then squeeze the raisins in a horsehair 



246 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

bag in a press, and tun the liquor ; when it ceases 
to hiss, stop it close. In six months rack it off into 
another cask, or into a tub, and after clearing out 
the sediment, return it into the same, but do not 
wash it ; add a gallon of the best brandy, stop it 
close, and in six months bottle it. 

Take care of the pressed fruit, for the uses of 
which refer to the preceding receipt. 
Ratafia. 

Blanch two ounces of peach and apricot kernels, 
bruise and put them into a bottle, and fill nearly up 
with brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white sugar- 
candy in a cup of cold water, and add to the brandy 
after it has stood a month on the kernels, and they 
are strained off; then filter through paper, and 
bottle for use. 

Rasfiberrybrandy. 

Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stonejar, and the 
jar into a kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till the 
juice will run ; strain, and to every pint add half a 
pound of sugar, give one boil, and skim it ; when 
cold, put equal quantities of juice and brandy, shake 
well, and bottle. Some people prefer it stronger of 
the brandy. 

Verder, or Milkfiunch. 

Pare six oranges, and six lemons as thin as you 
can, grate them after with sugar to get the flavour. 
Steep the peels in abottle of rum or brandy stopped 
dose twenty four hours. Squeeze the fruit on a 



HOME BREWERY. x 247 

pound and a half of sugar, add to it four quarts of 
water, and one of new milk boiling hot ; stir the 
rum into the above, and run it through a jellybag 
till perfectly clear. Bottle, and cork close imme* 
diately. 

Norfolkfiunch. 
Pare six lemons and three Seville oranges very 
thin, squeeze the juice into a large teapot, put to it 
two quarts of brandy, one of white wine, and one of 
milk, and one pound and a quarter of sugar. Let 
it be mixed, and then covered for twenty four hours, 
strain through a jellybag till clear ; then bottle it. 

Orange, or Lemonsyrufi ; a most useful thing to keep, 
in the house, to take with water, in colds or fevers. 

Squeeze the juice of very good fruit, and boil 
•when strained, a pint to a pound of sugar, over a 
very gentle fire ; skim it well ; when clear, pour it 
into a China bowl, and in twenty four hours bottle it 
for use. 

White Currantshrub. 

Strip the fruit, and prepare in a jar as for jelly ; 
strain the juice, of which put two quarts to one gal- 
lon of rum, and two pounds of lump sugar ; strain 
through a jellybag. 



The following pages will contain Cookery for 
the sick ; it being of more consequence to support 
those whose bad appetites will not allow them to 
take the necessary nourishment, than to stimulate 
those that are in health. 



248 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

It may not be unnecessary to advise that a choice 
be made of the things most likely to agree with the 
patient ; that a change be provided ; that some one 
at least be always ready ; that not too much of those 
be made at once, which are not likely to keep, as 
invalids require variety ; and let them succeed each 
other in a different form and flavour. 

A great Restorative. « 

Bake two calf's feet in three pints of water, and 
new milk, in a jar close covered, three hours and a 
half. When cold remove the fat. 

Give a large teacupful the last and first thing. 
Whatever flavour is approved, give it by baking in 
it lemonpeel, cinnamon, or mace. Add sugar. 
Another. 

Simmer six sheep's trotters, two blades of mace, 
a little cinnamon, lemonpeel, a few hartshorn shav- 
ings, and a little isinglass, in two quarts of water to 
one ; when cold take off the fat, and give near half 
a pint twice a day ; warming with it a little new 
milk. 

Another. 

Boil one ounce of isinglass shavings, forty Jamai- 
ca peppers, and a bit of brown crust of bread, in a 
quart of water to a pint, and strain it. 

This makes a pleasant jelly to keep in the house; 
of which a large spoonful may be taken in wine and 
water, milk, tea, soup, or any way. 

Another most pleasant Draught. 
Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass shav- 
ings with a pint of new milk to half, add a 



FOR THE SICK. 249 

bit of sugar, and, for change, a bitter almond- 
Give this at night, not too warm. 

Blamange, Dutch Flummery, and Jellies, as^i- 
rected pages 164 and 165 ; or less rich according to 
judgment. 

A very nourishing Vealbroth. 

Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with 
very little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shank- 
bones of mutton extremely well soaked and brush- 
ed, three blades of mace, ten peppercorns, an onion, 
and a large bit of bread, and three quarts of water, 
into a stewpot that covers close, and simmer in the 
slowest manner after it has boiled up, and been 
skimmed ; or, bake it ; strain and take off the fat. 
Salt as wanted. 

A clear Broth that ivill keefi long. 

Put the mouse round of beef, a knucklebone of 
veal, and a few shanks of mutton into a deep pan, 
and cover close with a dish or coarse crust ; bake 
till the beef is done enough for eating, with only as 
much water as will cover. When cold, cover it 
close in a cool place. When to be used, give what 
flavour may be approved. 

Dr. Ratclyff's restorative Porkjelly. 

Take a leg of well fed pork, just as cut up, beat 
it, and break the bone. Set it over a gentle fire, 
with three gallons of water, and simmer to one. 
Let half an ounce of mace, and the same of nut- 
megs, stew in it. Strain through a fine sieve. 
When cold, take off the fat. Give a chocolatecup 



250 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

the first and last thing, and at noon, putting salt to 

taste. 

+ Beeftea. 

Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices, sim- 
mer with a quart of water twenty minutes, after it 
has once boiled, and been skimmed. Season, if 
approved ; but it has generally only salt. 
Broth of Beef, Mutton^ and Veal. 

Put two pounds of lean beef, two pounds of 
scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and ten peppercorns, 
into a nice tin saucepan, with five quarts of water ; 
simmer to three quarts ; and clear from the. fat 
when cold. 

.Note. That soup and broth made of different 
meats are more supporting, as well as better fla- 
voured. 

TWO WAYS OF PREPARING A CHICKEN. 

Chic ken fianada. 

Boil it till about three parts ready in a quart of 
water, take off the skin, cut the white meat off 
when cold, and put into a marble mortar ; pound it 
to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, 
season with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the 
least bit of lemonpeel. Boil gently for a few mi- 
nutes to the consistency you like ; it should be such 
as you can drink, though tolerably thick. 

This conveys great nourishment in small com- 
pass. 

Chickenbroth. 

Put the body and legs of the fowl that the panada 
was made of, taking off the skin and rump, into the 



FOR THE SICK. 251 

water it was boiled in, with one blade of mace, one 
slice of onion, and ten white peppercorns. Sim- 
mer till the broth be of a pleasant flavour, ^f not 
water enough, add a little. Beat a quarter of an 
ounce of sweet almonds, with a teaspoonful of wa- 
ter, fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold, 
remove the fat. 

Shankjelly. 

Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then 
brush and scour them very clean. Lay them in a 
saucepan with three blades of mace, an onion, 
twenty Jamaica, and thirty or forty black peppers, 
a bunch of sweet herbs, and a crust of bread made 
very brown by toasting. Pour three quarts of wa- 
ter to them, and set them on a hot hearth close 
covered ; let them simmer as gently as possible 
for five hours, then strain it off, and put it in a cold 
place. 

This may have the addition of a pound of beef, 
if approved, for flavour. 

. Eelbro'h. 

Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on 
with three pints of water, some parsley, one slice of 
onicn, a few peppercorns ; let them simmer till the 
eels are broken, and the broth good. Add salt. 

The above should make three half pints of broth. 
Tenchbroth. 

Make as above. They are both very nutritious, 
and light of digestion, 
z 



252 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

A quick mad?. Broth. 
Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, 
take off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small 
tin saucepan that has a cover, with three quarters 
of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten, and 
cut in thin bits ; put a bit of thyme and parsley, 
and, if approved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very 
quick, skim it nicely ; take off the cover, if likely 
to be too weak ; else cover it. Half an hour is 
sufficient for the whole process. 

Calf s feet Broth. 
Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half ; 
strain and set it by. When to be used, take off the 
fat, put a large teacupful of the jelly into a sauce- 
pan, with half a glass of sweet wine, a little sugar 
and nutmeg, and heat it up till it be ready to boil, 
then take a little of it, and beat by degrees to the 
yelk of an egg, and adding a bit of butter, the size 
of a nutmeg, stir it altogether, but do not let it 
boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemonpeel into it. 

Another. 
Boil two calf's feet, two ounces of veal, and two 
of beef, the bottom of a penny loaf, two or three 
blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little 
salt, in three quarts of water, to three pints ; strain, 
and take off the fat. 

Panada ; made in five minutes. 
Set a little water on the fire with a glass of white 
wme, some sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lem- 
onpeel ; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. 



FOR THE SICK. 253 

The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still 
on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast 
as it can. When of a proper thickness just to 
drink, take it off. 

Another. 

As above, but instead of a glass of wine, put in a 
spoonful, a teaspoonful of rum, and a bit of but- 
ter ; sugar as above. 

This is a most pleasant mess. 

Another. 

Put to the water a bit of lemonpeel, mix the 
crumbs in, and when nearly boiled enough, put 
some lemon or orangesyrup. 

Observe to boil all the ingredients ; for if any be 
added after, the panada will break, and not jelly. 
Barleywater. 

Boil an ounce of pearlbarley a few minutes to 
cleanse, then put on it a quart of water, simmer 
an hour ; when half done, put into it a bit of fresh 
lemonpeel, and one bit of sugar. If hkely to be 
too thick, you may put another quarter of a pint 
of water. 

Common Barleywater. 

Wash a handful of common barley, then sim- 
mer it gently in three pints of water with a bit of 
lemonpeel. 

This is less apt to nauseate than pearlbarley ; 
but the former is a very pleasant drink. 

A very agreeable Drink. 
Into a tumbler of fresh cold water pour a table 
spoonful of capillaire, and the same of good vinegar. 



£54 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

\ 

Lemonivater ; a delightful drink. 

Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a tea- 
pot, and a little bit of the peel, and a bit of sugar, 
or a large spoonful of capillaire ; pour in a pint of 
boiling water, and stop close. 
Afifilewater. 

Cut two large apples in slices* and pour a quart 
of boiling water on them; or on roasted apples. 

Tamarinds, currants fresh or in jelly, or scalded 
currants, or cranberries, make excellent drinks ; 
with a little sugar or not, as may be agreeable. 

Raspberry Vinegarwater. Seepage 240. 

This is one of the most delightful drinks that 
can be made. 

Toast and Water. 

Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely 
brown and hard, but not the least black, then plunge 
it into a jug of cold water, and cover it over an 
hour before used. 

Orangeade, or Lemonade. 

Squeeze the juice ; pour boiling water on a little 
of the peel, and cover close. Boil water and sugar 
to a thin syrup, and skim it. When ail are cold, 
mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as 
much more water as will make a rich sherbet ; 
strain through a jellybag. Or, squeeze the juice, 
and strain it, and add water and capillaire. 

Orgeat. 
Beat two ounces of almonds with a teaspoonful 
of orange flower water, and a bitter almond or two; 



FOR THE SICK. 255 

then pour a quart of milk and water to the paste. 
Sweeten with sugar, or capillaire. 

Another orgeat for company, page 239. 
Milkfiorridge. 

Make a fine gruel of half grits, long boiled ; strain 
off ; either add cold milk, or warm with milk as 
may be approved. Serve with toast. 
French Milkfiorridge. 

Stir some oatmeal and water together, let it stand 
to be clear, and pour off the latter : pour fresh 
upon it, stir it well, let it stand till next day ; strain 
through a fine sieve, and boil the water, adding 
milk while doing. The proportion of water must 
be small. 

This is much ordered, with toast, for the break- 
fast of weak persons abroad. 

Caudle. 

Make a fine smooth gruel of half grits ; strain 
it when boiled well, stir it at times till cold. When 
to be used, add sugar, wine, and lemonpeel, with 
nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides 
the wine. 

Another Caudle. 

Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a bit of 
butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful 
of brandy, the same of white wine, one of capillaire, 
a bit of lemonpeel and nutmeg. 

Rice Caudle. 
When the water boils, pour it into some grated 
rice mixed with a little cold water ; when of a 
z 2 



256 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

proper consistence add sugar, lemonpeel and cin- 
namon, and a glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all 
smooth. 

Cold Caudle. 
Boil a quart of spring water ; when cold, add the 
yelk of an egg, the juice of a small lemon, six 
spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste ; and 
syrup of lemons one ounce. 

A refreshing drink in a Fever. 
Put a little teasage, two sprigs of balm, and a 
little woodsorrel into a stonejug, having first wash- 
ed and dried them ; peel thin a small lemon, and 
clear from the white ; slice it, and put a bit of the 
peel in, then pour in three points of boiling water, 
sweeten, and cover it close. 

Another Drink. 

Wash extremely well an ounce of pearlbarley ; 

shift it twice, then put to it three pints of wateK an 

ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a bit of 

'lemonpeel. Boil till you have a smooth liquor, then 

put in a little syrup of lemons and capillaire. 

Another Drink. 
Boil three pints of water with an ounce and a 
half of tamarinds, three ounces of currants, and two 
ounces of stoned raisins, till near a third be con- 
sumed. Strain it. 

A most fileasant Drink. 
Put a teacupful of cranberries into a cup of water, 
and mash them. In the mean time boil two quar- 



FOR THE SICK. 257 

ters and a pint of water with one large spoonful of 
oatmeal, and a very large bit of lemonpeel : then 
add the cranberries, and as much fine Lisbon sugar 
as shall leave a smart flavour of the fruit ; and a 
quarter of a pint of sherry or less, as may be pro- 
per ; boil all for half an hour, and strain off. 

Whey. 

That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, espec- 
ially when the cows are in fresh herbage. 
White Winewhey. 

Put half a pint of new milk on the fire ; the 
moment it boils up, pour in as much sound raisin 
wine as will completely turn it, and it looks clear ; 
let it boil up, then set the saucepan aside till the 
curd subsides, and do not stir it. Pour the whey 
off, and add to it half a pint of boiling water, and a 
bit of white sugar. Thus you will have a whey 
perfectly cleared of milky particles, and as weak as 
you choose to make it. 

Vinegar and Lemonwheys. 

Pour into boiling milk as above, and when clear, 
dilute with boiling water, and put a bit or two of 
sugar. 

Eggwine. 

Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water; 
set on the fire a glass of white wine, half a glass 
of water and sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, 
pour a little of it to the egg by degrees, till the 
whole be in, stirring it well ; then return the whole 
into the saucepan, put it on a gentle fire, stir it 



258 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

one way for not more than a minute ; for if it boil, 
or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with 
toast. 

Eggwine may be made as above, without warm- 
ing the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, 
though not so pleasant to the taste. 

An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and 
mixed with a bason of milk, makes a breakfast 
more supporting than tea. 

An egg divided, and the yelk and white beaten 
separately, then mixed with a glass of wine, will 
afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove 
lighter than when taken together. 

Eggs very little boiled or poached, taken in small 
quantity, convey much nourishment. 

The following is a fiarticularly soft andjine draught, 

to be taken the first and last thing, by those who 

are weak, and have a cough. 

Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter 
of a pint of new milk warmed, a large spoonful of 
capillaire, the same of rosewater, and a little nut- 
meg scraped. Do not warm after the egg is put in. 
Chocolate. 

Those who use much of this article, will find 
the following mode of preparing both useful and 
economical. 

Cut a cake of chocolate in very small bits ; put a 
pint of water into the pot, and, when it boils, put in 
the above ; mill it off the fire until quite melted, 
then on a gentle fire till it boil ; pour it into a bason. 



FOR THE SICK. 259. 

and it will keep in a cool place eight or ten days, 
or more. When wanted put a spoonful or two into 
milk, boil it with sugar, and mill it well. 

This, if not made thick, is a very good breakfast 
or sapper. 

To make Coffee. 

Put two ounces of fresh ground coffee of the best 
quality into a coffeepot, and pour eight coffee cups 
of boiling water on it ; let it boil six minutes, pour 
out a cupful two or three times, and return it 
again ; then put two or three isinglass chips into 
it, and pour one large spoonful of boiling water on 
it; boil it five minutes more, and set the pot by the 
fire to keep hot for ten minutes, and you will have 
coffee, of a beautiful clearness. 

Fine cream should always be served with coffee, 
and either pounded sugarcandy or fine Lisbon 
sugar. 

If for foreigners, or those who like it extremely 
strong, make only eight dishes from three ounces. 
If not fresh roasted, lay it before a fire until per- 
fectly hot and dry ; or you may put the smallest 
bit of fresh butter into a preserving pan of a small 
size, and, when hot throw the coffee in it, and toss 
it about until it be freshened. 

Coffee Mlk. 

Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee, in nearly 
a pint of milk, a quarter of an hour ; then put into 
it a shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it. Let 
it boil a few minutes, and set it on the side of the 
fire to grow fine. » 



260 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

This is a very fine breakfast. It should be 
sweetened with real Lisbon sugar of a good quality. 

Ground Rice Milk 

Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down 
smooth, with three half pints of milk, a bit of cinna- 
mon, lemonpeel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when 
nearly done. 

Tafiiocajelly. 

Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to 
wash it two or three times, then soak it in fresh 
water five or six hours, and simmer it in the same 
until it become quite clear ; then put lemonjuice, 
wine, and sugar. The peel should have been boiled 
in it. It thickens very much. 

Sago. 
To prevent the earthy taste, soak it in cold 
water an hour ; pour that off. and wash it well; then 
add more, and simmer gently till the berries are 
clear, with lemonpeel and spice, if approved. Add 
wine and sugar, and boil all up together. 

Sago Milk. 
Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly and wholly 
with new milk. It swells so much that a small 
quantity will be sufficient for a quart, and when 
done it will be diminished to about a pint. It re- 
quires no sugar, or flavouring. 

Arrowroot jelly. 
Of this beware of having the wrong sort ; for it 
has been counterfeited with bad effect. 



FOR THE SICK. 261 

Mix a large spoonful of the powder with a tea- 
cup of cold water, by degrees, and quite smooth. 
Put rather more than a pint of water over the fire, 
with some white sugar, scraped nutmeg, and a 
spoonful and a half of brandy, or two. The moment 
it boils, pour the powder and water in, stirring it 
well ; and when it boils up it is done. 

This is a very useful thing in a house ; and in 
the above mode a sick person may be supplied with 
a fine supporting meal in a few minutes. 

This and the following are particularly good in- 
bowel complaints. 

A Flour Caudle, 
Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water, rub 
smooth one dessertspoonful of fine flour. Set 
over the fire five spoonfuls of new milk, and put 
two bits of sugar into it ; the moment it boils, pour 
into it, the flour and water, and stir it over a slow 
fire twenty minutes. 

A Rice Caudle. 
Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour, strain 
it, and put two spoonfuls of the rice into a pint and 
a quarter of milk ; simmer till it will pulp through 
a sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the sauce- 
pan, with a bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. 
Simmer ten minutes ; if too thick, add a spoonful 
or two of milk, and serve with thin toast. 

Gloucesterjelly. 
Take rice, sago, pearlbarley, hartshorn shav- 
ings and eringoroot, each an ounce ; simmer with 



262 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

two pints of water to one, and strain it. When 
cold it will be a jelly ; of which give, dissolved in 
wine, milk, or broth, in change with other nourish- 
ment. 

Mulledwine. 
Boil some spice in a little water till the flavour 
is gained, then add an equal quantity of port, some 
sugar and nutmeg ; boil together, and serve with 
toast. 

Asses* Milk 

Far surpasses any imitation of it that can be 
made. It should be milked into a glass that is kept 
warm by being in a bason of hot water. 

The fixed air that it contains gives some people 
a pain in the stomach. 

At first a teaspoonful of rum maybe taken with 
it, but should only be put in the moment it is to be 
swallowed. 

Artificial Asses' Milk. 

Boil together a quart of water, a quart of new 
milk, an ounce of white sugarcandy, half an ounce 
of eringoroot, and half an ounce of conserve of 
roses, till half be wasted. 

This is astringent ; therefore proportion the 
doses to the effect. 

Another. 

Mix two spoonfuls of boiling water, two of milk, 
and an egg well beaten ; sweeten with pqunded 
white sugarcandy. 

This may be taken twice or thrice a day. 



FOR THE SICK. 263 

Another. 
Boil two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two ounces 
of pearlbarley, two ounces of candied eringoroot, 
and one dozen of snails that have been bruised, in 
two quarts of water to one. Mix with an equal 
quantity of new milk, when taken, twice a day. 

Buttermilk^ with Bread or without. 

It is most wholesome when sour, as being less 
likely to be heavy, but most agreeable when made 
of sweet cream. 

Dr. Boerhaave*s sweet Buttermilk. 

Take the milk from the cow into a small churn, 
of about six shillings price ; in about ten minutes 
begin churning, and continue till the flakes of but- 
ter swim about pretty thick, and the milk is dis- 
charged of all the greasy particles, and appears thin 
and blue. Strain it through a sieve, and drink it 
as frequently as possible. 

It should form the whole of the patient's drink, 
and the food should be biscuit and rusks, in every- 
way and sort ; ripe and dried fruits of various kinds, 
when a decline is apprehended. 

Baked and dried fruits, raisins in particular, make 
excellent suppers for invalids, with biscuit or 
common cake. 

When the Stomach will not receive Meat. 
On an extreme hot plate put two or three sippets 
of bread, and pour over them some gravy from 
beef, mutton, or veal, if there is no butter in the 
dish. Sprinkle a little salt oyer, 

A 91 



264 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

This is much lighter than meat, and conveys a 
great deal of nourishment in a small form. 

Toast hard and dry a ti.in bit of bread, soak it 
in water, or port wine and water, take it out and 
sift a little sugar, and, if you like it, nutmeg. 

Or pour boiling water over a captain's biscuit, 
broken in pieces, and steam it down in a bason ; 
when soft, add a little strong souchong tea, cream, 
and sugar, or wine, sugar, and nutmeg ; or a tea- 
cupful of weak rum, or brandy and water, with 
sugar, just to give taste. 

Saloofi. 
Boil a little water, with wine, lemonpeel, and 
sugar, together ; then mix with a small quantity of 
the powder, previously rubbed 1 smooth, with a lit- 
tle cold water ; stir it all together, and boil it a few 
minutes. 



I promised a few hints, to enable every family to 
assist the poor of their neighborhood at a very 
trivial expense; and these may be varied or amend- 
ed at the discretion of the mistress. 

Where cows are kept, a jug of skimmed milk is 
a valuable present. 

When the oven is hot, a large pudding may be 
baked, and given to a sick or young family ; and 
thus made, the trouble is little : into a deep coarse 
pan put half a pound of rice, four ounces of coarse 
sugar or treacle, two quarts of milk, and two ounces 



RESPECTING THE POOR. 265 

of dripping, set it cold into the oven. It will take 
a good while, but be an excellent solid food. 

A very good meal may be bestowed in a thing 
called Brew is, which is thus made : cut a very 
thick upper crust of bread and put it into the pot 
where salt beef is boiling and near ready ; it will 
attract some of the fat, and, when swelled out, will 
be no unpalatable dish to those who rarely taste 
meat. J 

A baked Sou/i. 

Put a pound of any kind of meat cut in slices ; 
two onions, two carrots, ditto ; two ounces of rice, 
a pint of split peas, or whole ones if previously 
soaked, pepper and salt, into an earthen jug or partj 
and pour one gallon of water. Cover it very close, 
and bake it with the bread. 

The cook should be charged to save the boiling of 
every piece of meat, ham, tongue. &c. howevei salt ; 
as it is easy to use only a part of that, and the rest 
of fresh water, and by the addition of m<~re vegeta- 
bles, the bones of the meat used in the family, the 
piects of meat that come from table on the plates, 
and rice, Scotch barley or oatmeal, there will be 
some gallons of nutritious soup two or three times 
a week. The bits of meat should be only warmed 
in the soup, and remain whole ; the bones, &c. boil- 
ed till they yield their noui ishn~ ent. If the things 
are ready to put in the boiler as soon as the meat be 
served, it will save lighting fire and second cooking. 

Turnips, carrots, leeks, p >tatoes, or any sort 
| of vegetable that is at hand, should be used. 



266 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Should the soup be poor of meat, the long boiling 
of the bones and different vegetables, will afford 
better nourishment than the laborious poor can 
obtain ; especially as they are rarely tolerable cooks, 
and have not fuel to do justice to what they buy. 
But in every family there is some superfluity ; 
and if it be prepared with cleanliness and care, the 
benefit will be very great to the receiver, and the 
satisfaction no less to the giver. 

I found, in the time of scarcity, ten or fifteen 
gallons of soup, could be dealt out weekly, at an 
expense not worth mentioning, though the vege- 
tables were bought. If in the villages about London, 
abounding with opulent families, the quantity of 
ten gallons were made in ten gentlemen's houses, 
there would be a hundred gallons of wholesome 
agreeable food given weekly for the supply of forty 
poor families, at the rate of two gallons and a half 
each. 

What a relief to the labouring husband, instead 
of bread and cheese, to have a warm comfortable 
meal ! To the sick, aged, and infant branches, how 
important an advantage. 

It very rarely happens, that servants object to 
seconding the kindness of their superiors to the 
poor ; but should the cook in any family think the 
adoption of this plan too troublesome, a gratuity 
at the end of the winter might repay her, if the love 
of her fellowcreatures failed of doing it, a hundred 
fold. Did she readily enter into it, she would 
never wash away as useless the pease or grits of 



RESPECTING THE POOR. 267 

which soup or gruel had been made ; broken 
potatoes, the green heads of celery, the necks and 
feet of fowls, and particularly the shanks of mut- 
ton, and various other articles, which in preparing 
dinner for the family are thrown aside. 

Fish affords great nourishment, and that not by 
the part eaten only, but the bones, heads, and fins, 
which contain an isinglass. When the fish is serv- 
ed, let the cook put by some of the water, ana stew 
in it the above, as likewise add the gravy that is 
in the dish, until she obtains all the goodness. If 
to be eaten by itself, when it makes a delightful 
broth, she should add a very small bit of onion, 
some pepper, and a little rice flour rubbed down 
smooth with it. 

But strained it makes a delicious improvement 
to the meat soup, particularly for the sick ; and 
when such are to be supplied, the milder parts of 
the spare bones and meat should be made for them, 
with little, if any of the liquor of the silt meats. 

The fat should not be taken off the broth or soup, 
as the poor like it, and are nourished by it. 

The following is on excellent Sou fi for the weakly. 
Put two cowheels and a breast of mutton into a 
large pan, with four ounces of rice, one onion, 
twenty Jamaica peppers, and twenty black, a turn- 
ip, a carrot, and four gallons of water. Cover with 
brown paper, and bake. 

Sago. 
Put a teacupful of sago into a quart of water, 

and a bit of ltmonpeelj when thickened, grate some 
a a 2 



268 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

ginger, and add half a pint of raisinwine, brown 
sugar, and two spoonfuls of Geneva. Boil all up 
together. 

It is a most supporting thing for those whom 
disease has left very feeble. 

Caudle for the Sick and Lyingin. 

Set three quarts of water on the fire, mix smooth 
as much oatmeal as will thicken the whole with a 
pint of cold water ; when boiling, pour the latter 
in, and twenty Jamaica peppers in fine powder ; 
boil to a good middling thickness, then add sugar, 
half a pint of well fermented table beer, and a glass 
of gin. Boil all. 

This mess twice, and once or twice of broth, will 
be of incalculable service. 

There is not a better occasion for charitable 
commiseration than when a person is sick. A bit 
of meat or pudding sent unexpectedly has often 
been the means of recalling long lost appetite. 

Nor are the indigent alone the grateful receiv- 
ers ; for in the highest houses a real good sick- 
cook is rarely met with ; and many who possess 
all the goods of fortune, have attributed the first 
return of health to some kitchen jihysic. 



DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS. 269 

USEFUL DIRECTIONS TO GIVE TO SERVANTS. 

To give to boards a beautiful afipearance. 

After washing ihem very nicely clean with soda 
and warm water, and a brush, wash them with a 
very large sponge and clean water. Both times 
observe to leave no spot untouched, and clean 
straight up and down not crossing from board to 
board ; then dry with clean cloths, rubbing hard up 
and down in the same way. 

The floors should not be often wetted, but very 
thoroughly when done ; and once a week dry rub- 
bed with hot sand, and a heavy brush, the right 
way of the boards. 

The sides of stairs or passages on which are 
carpets, or floorcloth, should be washed with sponge 
instead of linen or flannel, and the edges will not 
be soiled. Different sponges should be kept for 
the two above uses ; and those and the brushes 
should be well washed when done with, and kept 
in dry places. 

Floorcloths. 

Should be chosen that are painted on a fine cloth, 
that is well covered with the colour, and the flowers 
on which do not rise much above the ground, as 
they wear out first. The durability of the cloth 
will depend much on these two particulars, but 
more especially on the time it has been painted, 
and the goodness of the colours. If they have not 
been allowed sufficient space for becoming tho- 
roughly hardened, a very little use will injure them ; 
and as they are very expensive articles, care in pre- 
serving them is necessary. It answers to keep 



270 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

them some time before they are used, either hung 
up in a dry barn where they will have air, or laid 
down in a spare room. \\ ben taken up for the 
winter, they should be rolled round a caipet roller, 
and observe not to crack the paint by turning the 
edges in too close. 

Old carpets answer extremely well, painted and 
seasoned some months before laid down. If for 
passages, the width must be directed when they 
are sent to the manufactory, as they cut before 
painting. 

To clean Floorcloths. 
Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel ; and 
when all dust and spots are removed, rub wit i a 
waxed flannel, and then with a dry plain one ; but 
use little wax, and rub only enough with the latter 
to give a little smoothness, or it may endanger fall- 
ing- 
Washing now and then with milk after the above 

sweeping, and dry rubbing them, give as beautiful 
a look, and they are less slippery. 

To take the black off the hright bars of polished Stoves 
in a few minutts. 

Rub them well with some of the following mix- 
ture on a bit of broadcloth ; when the dirt is re- 
moved, wipe them clean, and polish with glass, not 
sandpaper. 

The mixture. 

Boil slowly one pound of soft soap in two quarts 
of water to one. Of this jelly take three or four 
spoonfuls, and mix to a consistence with emery, 
No 3-. 



DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS. 271 

To clean the back of the grate ; the inner hearth ; and 
of Castiron Stoves, the fronts. 
Boil about a quarter of a pound of the best black 
lead, with a pint of small beer, and a bit of soap 
the size of a walnut. When that is melted, dip a 
painter's brush, and wet the grate, having first 
brushed off all the soot and dust ; then take a hard 
brush, and rub it till of a beautiful brightness. 
Another way to clean Castiron, and black Hearths. 
Mix black lead and whites of eggs beaten well 
together ; dip a painter's brush, and wet all over, 
then rub it bright with a hard brush. 

To preserve Irons from rust. 

Melt fresh mutton suet, smear over the iron with 
it, while hot ; then dust it well with unslacked lime 
pounded, and tied up in a muslin. Irons so pre- 
pared will keep many months. Use no oil for 
them at any time, except sallad oil ; there being 
water in all other. 

Fireirons should be kept wrapt in baize, in a dry 
place, when not used. 
To clean tin covers, and patent fieivter Porterfiots. 

Get the finest whiting, which is only sold in large 
cakes, the small being mixed with sand, mix a little 
of it powdered, with the least drop of sweet oil, 
and rub well, and wipe clean ; then dust some dry- 
whiting in a muslin bag over, and rub bright 
with dry leather. The last is to prevent rust, 
which the cook must be careful to g,uard against 
by wiping dry, and putting by the fire whtn they 
come from the parlour ; for if but once hung up 
without, the steam will rust the inside. 



272 DOMESTIC COOKERV. , 

To take, rust out of S'eel. 
Cover the steel with sweet oil well rubbed on it, 
and in forty eight hours use unslackcd lime finely 
powdered, and rub until all the rust disappears. 

lo clean atone S airs and Halls. 
Boil a pc.nd of pipemakers clay with a quart of 
water, a quart of small beer, and put in a bit of 
stone blue. Wash with this mixture, and when 
dry, rub the stones with flannel and a brush. 

To clear Pafier hangings. 

First blow off the dust with the bellows. Divide 
a white loaf of two days old into eight parts. Take 
the crust into your hand, and beginning at the top 
of the paper, wipe it downwards in the lightest 
manner with the crumb. Do not cross or go up- 
wards. The dirt of the paper and the crumbs will 
fall together. Observe, you must not wipe above 
half a yard at a stroke, and after doing all the upper 
part, go round again, beginning a little above where 
you lelt off. If you do not do it extremely lightly, 
you will make the dirt adhere to the paper. 

It will look like new if properly done. 

To clean Paint. 
Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a 
little longhaired brush, after bloving oft" the loose 
parts with the bellows. With care, paint will look 
well for a length of time. When soiled, dip a 
sponge or a bit of flannel into soda and water, wash 
it off quickly, and dry immediately, or the strength 
of the soda will eat oft' the colour. 



DIRECTIONS FOR SERVANTS. 273 

When wainscot requires scouring, it should be 
done from the top downwards, and the suds be 
prevented from running on the unclean part as 
much as possible, or m rks will be made which 
will appear after the whole be finished. One per- 
son should dry with old linen as fast as the other 
has scouted off the dirt and washed the soda off. 
To clean Lookingg lasses. 

Remove the fly stains, and other soil, by a damp 
rag ; then polish with woollen cloth and powder- 
blue. 

To fireserve Gilding, and clean it. 

It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the 
gilding without covering it ; before which, blow off 
the light dust, and pass a feather or clean brush 
over it ; then with strips of paper cover the frames 
of your glasses, and do not remove it till the flies 
are gone. 

I inen takes off the gilding, and deadens its 
brightness ; it should therefore never be used for 
wiping it. 

Some means should be used to destroy the flies, 
as they injure furniture of every kind, and the paper 
likewise. Bottles hung about with sugar ami vin- 
egar, or beer, will attract them ; or fly water put 
into the bottom of a saucer. 

To clean Plate. 

Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn powder in a 
quart of water. While on the fire, put into it as 
much plate as the vessel will hold ; let it boil a 
little, then take it out, drain it over the saucepan, 



274 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

and dry it before the fire. Put in more, and serve 
the same, till you have done. Then put into the 
water some clean linen rags till all be soaked up. 
When dry, they will serve to clean the plate, and 
are the very best things to clean the brass locks 
and fingerplates of doors. When the plate is quite 
dry, it must be rubbed bright with leather. 

This is a very nice mode. 

Note. In many platepowders there is a mixture 
of quicksilver, which is very injurious ; and, among 
other disadvantages, it makes silver so brittle, that 
from a fall it will break. 

To give a Jine Colour to Mahogany. 

Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with 
vinegar, having first taken out any inkstains there 
may be with spirits of salt ; but it must be used 
with the greatest care, and only touch the part 
affected, and be instantly washed off. Use the fol- 
lowing liquid : into a pint of cold drawn linseed oil, 
put four penny worth of alconetroot, and two pen- 
ny worth of rosepink, in an earthen vessel ; let it 
remain all night, then stirring well, rub some of it 
all over the tables with a linen rag ; when it has 
lain some time, rub it bright with linen cloths. 

Eating tables should be covered with mat,oilcloth, 
or baize, to prevent staining, and be instantly rub- 
bed when the dishes are taken off, while still warm. 
To dust Carjiets and Floors. 

Sprinkle tealeaves on them, then sweep carefully. 
The former should not be swept frequently with 
a whisk brush, as it wears them fast ; but once a 



DIRECTIONS FOR SERVANTS. 275 

week, and the other times with the leaves and a 
hair brush. 

7b clean Carfiets. 
Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then 
laid down, and brushed on both sides with a hand 
brush. Turn it the right side upwards, and scour 
it with oxgall, and soap and water, very clean, and 
dry it with linen cloths. 

To take Stains out of Marble. 
Mix unslacked lime, in finest powder, with the 
stronger soaplye, pretty thick ; and instantly, with 
a painter's brush, lay it on the whole of the marble. 
In two months time wash it off perfectly clean ; 
then have ready a fine thick lather of soft soap, 
boiled in soft water ; dip a brush in it, and scour 
the maible with powder, not as common cleaning. 
This will, by very good rubbing, give a beautiful 
polish. Clear off the soap, and finish with a smooth 
hard brush till the end be effected. 

To clean Callico Furniture^ when taken down for the 
Summer. 

Shake off the loose dust, then lightly brush with 
a small longhaired furniture brush ; after which 
wipe it closely with clean flannels, and rub it with 
dry bread. 

If properly done, the curtains will look nearly as 
well as at first. 

Fold in large parcels, and put carefully by. 

While the furniture remains up, it should be 
preserved from the sun and air as much as possible, 
Bb 



276 BOMESTIC COOKERY. 

which injure delicate colours ; and the dust may be 
blown oft' with bellows. 

To fireserve Furs and Woollen from Moth. 
Let the former be occasionally combed while in 
use, and the latter be brushed and shaken. When 
not wanted, dry them first, let them be cool, then 
mix among them bitter apples from the apothe- 
cary's, in small muslin bags sewing them in several 
folds of linen, carefully turned in at the edges. 



INDEX. 



Alder wine, 243 

white, very 

much like Frontiniac, 243 

Ale, to brew, 236 

, very fine Welsh 236 

to refine 238 

Almond cheesecakes, 186 

cream, 169 

pudding's, 142 

, baked, 155 

, small, 157 

Amber pudding", a very 

fine one, 144 

Anchovies, to keep them 
when the liquor dries, 118 
sauce, 108 

essence of 112 
to make sprats 
taste like, 117 

Apples, to prepare them 
for puffs, 176 

dried, 175 

dumpling's, or pud- 
ding-, 151 
fool, 172 
jelly to serve to 
table, 176 
, another, 176 



Apple jelly, for preserv- 
ed apricots, or any sort 
of sweetmeats, 196 

pie, 180 

pudding-, baked, 144 
water, 254 

to scald codlins, 177 
to keep codlins for 
several months, 189 

stewed golden- 
pippins, 175 
red in jeMy, 175 
Apricots, in brandy, 195 
to dry in half, 196 
green, to pre- 
serve, 197 

to preserve in 
jelly, 196 

apple jelly for 
this purpose, 196 

cheese, 194 

pudding",an ex- 
cellent one, 154 
Arrowroot jelly, 260 
Asses milk, 262 
, artificial, 262 
, another, 262 
, another, 263 



278 



INDEX. 



B. 

Bacon, excellent, 69 

the manner of 
curing Wiltshire, 64 

fraise, 137 

Bamboo, (English) to 

pickle, 120 

Barberries, for tartlets, 201 
drops, 202 

Barleyioater, 253 

, common, 253 
Bean Pudding, green, 154 
Bechamel, 104 

Beef, stewed rump of, 28 
, stewed brisket, 29 
, to salt red, which 
is extremely good to 
eat fresh from the pic- 
kle, or to hang to dry, 30 
, pressed, 31 

, hunter's, 31 

, to dress the inside 
of a cold sirloin, 38 

, fricassee of cold 
roast, 38 

, to dress cold that 
has not been done 
enough, called beef 
olives, 38 

, to dress, called 
Sanders, 39 

, to dress, called 
Cecils, 39 

, to salt for eating 

immediately, 27 

alumode, 28 

, broth, 250 

, collared, 31 



Beef, collop, 33 

hashed, 40 

heart, 42 

minced, 39 

olives, 38 

palates, 34 

cakes for sidedish 

of dressed meat, 34 

potted, 35 

, another way, 35 

patties, or Podovies, 34 

, Benton sauce for 

hot or cold roast, 107 

round of, 40 

, sauce Robart for 

rumps, 106 

, a pickle for that 
will keep for years, 68 
, tea, 250 

Beefsteaks and oyster 
sauce, 32 

, sauce Robart 
for, 106 

pie, 34 

pudding, 33 

pudding, baked, 34 
, Staffordshire, 32 
, Italian, 33 

Beer, to refine, 238 

(strong) to brew, 236 
(table) excellent, 237 
Benton sauce, for hot or 
cold roast beef, 107 

tea cakes, 220 

- Birds, a very economical 

way of potting, 78 

Biscuit cake, 222 

, hard, 220 



INDEX. 



279 



Biscuit, plain, and very 
crisp, 221 

, of fruit, 204 

Black caps, 175 

puddings, 65 

another 
way, 66 

2?/a«cmtf77£e,orBlamang , e,164 
Boards, to give them a 

beautiful appearance, 269 
Backings, 182 

Boiling meat, observa- 
tions on, 20, 21 
Brandy cream, 169 
pudding-, 155 
Bread cake, common, 217 
pudding-, boiled, 147 
, another 
and richer, 147 
puddings, little, 145 
and butter pud- 
ding, 142 
sauce, 110 
brown pudding, 147 
ice, 211 
French, 229 
Brentford rolls, 227 
Brewery, Home, 236lo 247 
Broth, A quickmade, 252 
, a clear one, that 
■will keep long, 249 

Others are under 
different names ; as 
Chicken broth, 8cc. 
Bro^n bread pudding, 147 
ice, 211 

Bb.^ 



Browning, to colour and 

flavour made dishes, 117 
Bubble and Squeak, 42 

Bun, a good plain one, 226 
, richer ones, 226 

Burnt cream, 170 

Butter, to clarify for pot- 
ted things, 78 
, to melt, 107 
, pudding, 148 
with meat, 148 
, orange 131 
Buttermilk, 233 
, with bread 
or without, 263 

, Dr. Boer- 
haave's sweet, 263 

, pudding, 155 
C. 
Cabbage, (red) to pickle 124 
, to stew, 126 
Cakes, 212 to 229 

, observations on 
making and baking 
them, 212 

, a very fine one, 215 
, an excellent and 
less expensive one, 216 

, a very good com- 
mon one, 216 
, a common one, 218 
, little white, 219 
, little short, 219 
, flat that will 
keep long in the house 
good, 221 



280 



INDEX. 



Many other cakes 
are under their differ- 
ent first names ; as 
Plum cake, 7eacakes,&c. 
Cakes, colours for stain- 
ing, &c. 203 
, icing- for, 212 
Calf's feet broth, 252 
, another, 252 
jelly, 165 
, another 
gort, 165 
head, to boil, 49 
, hashed, 49 
, mock turtle, 49 
,a cheaper way, 50 

, forcemeat as 
for turtle, at the Bush, 
Bristol, 50 

, another force- 
meat, for balls or pat- 
ties, 51 
, pie, 52 
, fricasseed, 53 
liver, broiled, 55 
, roasted, 55 
Cali co furniture, to clean 
when taken down for 
the summer, 275 
Camp vinegar, 112 
Capers, to keep, 118 
Carmel cover for sweet- 
meats, 206 
Carp, boiled, 12 
, stewed, 10 
, an excellent sauce 
fpr* 10« 



Carpets, to dust, 27 '4 

, to clean, 275 

Carrots, to stew, 127 

, pudding", 153 

, soup, 97 

Castiron, to clean stoves 
of, 271 

, another way, 271 
Catsup, mushroom, 113 

, ano- 
ther way 113 

, walnut of the, 
finest sort, 113 

, cockle, 114 

Caudle, 255 

, another, 255 

, rice, 255 

, cold, 256 

, a flour, 261 

, rice, 261 

, to give away to 
poor families, 268 

Cauliflower, in white 

sauce, 126 

Caveach, 4 

Cecils, 39 

Celery, to stew, 19 

Cheese, to pot, 230 

, to roast, to come 
up after dinner, 231 

, Cheese is also 
under different names; 
as Cream cheese,Apri- 
cot cheese, &c. 
Cheesecakes, 183 

, a plainer sort, 184 
, another way, 184 



INDEX. 



281 



Cheesecakes, lemon, 184 

, ano- 
ther, 185 
orange, 185 
, a ve- 
ry fine crust for them, 
•when to be particular- 
ly nice, 139 
, potatoe, 185 
, almond, 186 
, light paste 
for, 139 
Cherries, in brandy, 195 
, to dry 
with sugar, 192 
without sugar, 192 

, to dry 

them the, best way, 199 

, jam, 190 

, pie, 179 

, (morella) to 

preserve, 209 

Chickens, to pull, 80 

broth, 250 

curry, 81 

, another, 

more quickly made, 82 

, fricassee of, 79 

panada, 250 

pie, 80 

Chocolate, to prepare, 258 

Clary wine, 244 

Cod, crimp, 13 

head and shoulders, 12 

pie, 11 

ragout, 13 

pounds boiled, 13 



Cod, curry of, 13 

Codlins, to keep for sev- 
eral months, 189 
, to scald, 177 
tart, 179 
Coffee, to make, 259 
cream, much ad- 
mired, 171 
milk, 259 
Collops, mutton, 72 
, veal, dressed, 
quick, 44 
, another way, 45 
, veal, 45 
of cold veal or 
chicken, 45 
Scotch, 46 
Cornish pies, 89 
Cough, draught for, 258 
Crab, hot, 8 
Cracknuts, 222 
Cracknels, 223 
CranberrieSfdifferent ways 
of dressing, 177 
jelly, 178 
and rice jelly, 178 
Crawfish, soup, 101 
Cream, to scald, 233 
, imperial, 167 
, a 168 
, Others are un- 
der the names of the 
different principal ar- 
ticles they are made 
of ; as Almond cream, 
&c. 



282 



INDEX. 



Cream, a froth to sit on, 
which looks and eats 
well, 162 

, ice, 210 

Cheese, 234 

, another, 234 

, another sort, 235 
, rash cheese, 235 
, an- 
other way, 235 
Crust, excellent short, 139 
, an- 
other, 189 

a very fine one for 
orange cheesecakes or 
sweetmeats, when to 
be particularly nice, 139 
, rice piecrust, 150 
, raised crust for 
custards, of fruit, 140 
,for 
meat pies, or fowls, 
&c. 140 

, for venison pasty 141 
, rice pasty, 141 

, See also the arti- 
cle Paste. 
Cucumbers, to stew, 125 

, an- 
other way, 125 

and onions 
sliced, to pickle, 122 

, an- 
other way, 122 
, young 122 
Cullis, or brown sauce, 104 
Curds and cream, 160 



Curd, another way, 16V 

puddings or puffs, 156 

pudding boiled, 156 

Currants, to keep, 188 

dumplings, or 

pudding, 151 

and raspberry 
tart, 180 

jelly, red or 

black, 193 

, white, shrub, 247 

water ice, 210 

wine, 241 

Curry, rice boiled to eat 

with, 136 

Custards, cheap and ex- 
cellent ones, 168 
, richer, 168 
Others are un- 
der the names of the 
different principal ar- 
ticles they are made 
of ; as Lemon cus- 
tards, &c. 

, a froth to set 

on, which looks and 

eats well, 162 

pudding, 152 

Cutlets, Maintenon, 44 

, another way, 44 

, another way 44 

Cider, to refine, 238 

D. 

Dairy, 231 to 235 

Damson, to keep for 
winter pies, 189 

another way. 189 



INDEX. 



283 



Damsons, another, 190 

cheese, 203 

dumplings, or 
pudding, 151 

Davenport fowls, 80 

Devonshire junket, 161 

Drink, a very agreeable 
one for the sick, 253 

a refreshing one 

in a fever, 256 

another, 256 

another 256 

, a most pleasant 256 

, draught for a 

cough, 258 

Duck, to boil, 83 

to roast, 83 

sauce for, 105 

pie, 83 

Dutch pudding, or Sous- 

ter, 144 

rice pudding, 145 

E. 

Eel, boiled, 2 

broth, 3, 251 

collared, 3 

fried, 2 

pie, 2 

spitchcock, 2 

Eggs, buttered, 109 

to poach, 231 

sauce, 109 

wine, 257 

little, for pies or 

turtles, 111 

Essence, of anchovies 211 



Fish, 1 to 20 

observations on 
dressing, 17 

jelly to cover cold 
ones, 104 

sauce without but- 
ter, 108 
sauce alacraster, 111 
a very fine 
one, 111 
Floating island, 162 
another 
way, 162 
Floorcloths, directions re- 
specting them, 269 
to clean them, 270 
Floors, to dust, 274 
Flummery, 172 
Dutch, 156 
rice, 160 
Forcemeat for patties, 
balls, or stuffing, 132- 

Other force- 
meat is under the 
name of di she 3. 
Fowls, boiled, 78 

boiled with rice, 79 
observations on 
roasting them, 22 
roasted, 78 

Davenport, 80 

sauce for cold, 106 
vingaret for cold, 107 
sauce for wild , 105 
, another, 105 



284 



INDEX. 



Fault, a very good sauce 
to hide the bad 
colour of 109 

forcemeat for pies 
of any kind, 81 

fricassee of chick- 
ens, 79 

another white 
sauce, more easily 
made, fl 

collops of cold 
chicken, 45 

to pot chicken 
with ham, 47 

Fraise, 182 

French beans, to preserve 
to eat in the winter, 130 
bread, 229 

rolls, 227 

Fricandeauy 54, 127 

Fritters, 182 

Spanish, 183 

potatoe, 183 

Froth, to set on cream, 
custard, or trifle, 
which looks and eats 
well, 162 

Fruits to keep, 186 to 211 
Furs, to preserve from 
moth, 276 

G. 
George pudding-, 153 

German , 145 

Giblet pye, 85 

soup, 93 

stewed, g£ 



Gilding, to preserve and 

clean, 273 

Ginger drops, a good sto- 
machic, 202 
wine, excellent, 242 
another, 242 
Gingerbread, 225 
another sort, 225 
to make good 
without but- 
ter, 226 
Gloucester jelly, -261 
Goldenpippins, stewed, 175 
Goose, to roast, 84 
green pie, 85 
Gooseberries, to preserve, 186 
another way, 187 
another, 188 
fool, 172 
hops, 205 
jam, for tarts, 200 
ano- 
ther, 201 
white, 201 
pudding,bak- 
ed, 154 

vine- 
gar, US 
Grapes, to preserve in 

brandy, 205 

Grates, to clean the backs 

of, 271 

Gravy, clear, 102 

to draw that will 
keep a week, 102 

a rich one, 103 

veal, 104 

soup, 95 



INDEX. 



285 



Greeny to stain jellies, 

ices, or cakes, 
Grouse, 

to pot them, 

H. 

Haddock, 

stuffing for, 
Lams, to cure, 

another 
way, 

another 
way, 

another 
way, that gives ahigh- 
er flavour, 

a meth- 
od of giving a still 
higher flavour, 

a pickle for them 
that willkeepfor years, 68 **ng, for tarts, 
to dress, 63 

Hares, 22 

to prepare and 
dress, 90 

tojuganoldone, 91 
broiled and hash- 



Hcrrings, baked, 8 
203 broikd, 9 
82 fried, 9 
82 to smoke, 8 
(red) to dress, 8 
14 Hessian soup and ragout, 35 
16 the ragout, 36 
61 Hog's cheeks, to. dry, 63 
head, to make ex- 
cellent meat of, 56 
lard, 67 
puddings, white, 66 
Hotchpotch, an excellent 
one, 74 
another, 75 
Hunter's beef, 81 
pudding, 152 



61 

62 

62 



62 



I. 



311 

212 

210 



for cakes, 
Jce waters, 

currant or 
raspberry, * 210 

brown bread, 211 

to make the, 211 

creams, 210 

colours for staining 
them, 203 



91, 99 Imperial, 



70 



cream, 



ed, 92 

pie, 91 

potted, 91 

soup, 
Harrico, 
Harslet, 
Hartshorn jelly, 
Heart, beef, 
Hearths, (the inner) to 
clean, 271 

another way, 271 Jety to cover cold fish, 103 



242 
167 
g- India pickle, 118 

IQy Irons, to preserve them 
from rust, 



42 



271 



J 



286 



INDEX. 



Other Jellies are under 
the names of the dif- 
ferent principal arti- 
cles they are made of; 
as Calf s feet jelly, &c. 

colours for stain- " 
ing, &c. 203 

Junket, Devonshire, 161 

K. 
Kidney, veal, 46 

pudding, 151 

Kitchen pepper, 116 

L. 

Lamb, fore quarter, 76 
fry, 76 
head and hinge, 76 
leg- and loin, 75 
steaks, 72 
steaks and cu- 
cumbers, 74 
Lamprey , to stew, as at 

Worcester, 1 
Lardy 67 
Leek soup, Scotch, 99 
Lemons, to keep for pud- 
dings, &C. 186 

to preserve in 
jelly, 207 
cheesecakes, 184 
an- 
other 185 

cream, yellow 

without cream, 163 

white ditto, 164 

custards, 159 

drops, 203 

honeycomb, 171 

juice, to keep, 209 

pickle, 112 



Lemon, pudding, an ex- 
cellent one, 14S 
sauce, 108 
syrup, 247 
water, 254 
Lemonade, 254 
to be made a 
day before wanted, 239 
another way, 240 
Lent potatoes, 160 
Light, or German pud- 
dings, 145 
Liver sauce, 109 
Lobsters, buttered, 7 
curry of them, 7 
patties, 134 
pie, 7 
to pot them, 6 
another 
way, as at Wood's hotel, 6 
sallad, 128 
sauce, 107 
another 
way, 107 

stewed, as a 
very high relish, 7 

Lookingglasses, to clean, 273 

M. 

Macaroons, 224 

Mack are I, boiled, 3 

broiled, 3 

collared, 3 

potted, 3 

pickled, 3 

pickled, called 

caveach, 4 

Magnum bonum plums, 204 

Mahogany, to give a fine 

colour t»s 274 



INDEX. 



287 



Maids, 17 

Marble, to take stains out 

of, 275 

Marmalade y apple, 177 

orange, 198 

quince, 199 

transparent, 207 

Marrowbones, 38 

Mawskins, to cure, for 

rennet, 233 

Meats, 20 to 76 

observations on 
dressing-, 20 

(roast) rice boil- 
ed to eat with, 136 
Melon mangoes, 121 
Milkporridge, for the sick, 255 
French, 255 
Milkpunch, 246 
Millet pudding-, 153 
Mincepie, 134 
without meat, 135 
lemon, 135 
egg, 135 
patties 
resembling 134 
Mockturtle, 49 
a cheaper way, 50 
forcemeat as 
for turtle, at the Bush, 
Bristol, 50 

another force- 
meat for balls or pat- 
ties, 51 
another 51 
another 52 
Moor game, to pot, 82 
cc 



Moor hen to roast, 83 
Morells cherries, to pre- 
serve, 209 
Muffins, 227 
Mulled wine, 262 
Mushrooms, to dry, 115 
an excellent 
way to pickle, to pre- 
serve the flavour, 124 
to stew, 127 
powder, 114 
Mustard, to make, 118 
another way 
for immediate use, 118 
Mutton, to choose, 22 
Mutton, breast, 73 
broth, 250 
Scotch, 100 
collops, 70 
cutlets in the 
Portuguese way, 75 
ham, 75 
harrico, 70 
haunch, 69 
, an excellent 
hotch potch, 74 
another, 75 
legs, 69 
, rolled loin, 74 
necks, 69 
pie 71 
and petatoe pie, 71 
pudding, 71 
sausages, 71 
shoulder, boil- 
ed with oysters, 73 
steaks, 72 



288 



INDEX. 



Mutton, steaks of, or 
lamb and cucumbers, 74 
N. 

tfasturtions, to pickle for 
capers, 123 

Vevi college pudding's, 146 

Norfolk punch, 247 

O. 

Oatmeal pudding-, 144 

Omlet, 136 

Onions, pickled, 121 

, to roast, 125 

sauce, 109 

, sliced 

with cucumbers, 122 

, another way, 122 

soup, 97" 

, to stew, 125 

Orangeade, 254 

Orange butter, 131 

cakes, 208 

cheesecakes, 185 

chips, 208 

fool, 171 

jelly, 167 

juice, buttered, 173 

pudding, 143 

another, 143 

another, 143 

syrup, 247 

tart, 179 

Oranges, to butter, 173 

to keep, for 

puddings, &c. 186 

, to prepare, to 
put into puddin.es, 195 

preserved, to 
fill ; a corner dish, 178 



Oranges, to preserve in 

jelly* 207 

Orgeat, 254 

to make, S39 

, another way, 239 
Oxcheek stewed, plain, 36 
to dress it ano- 
ther way, 37 
rump soup, 100 
Oxford dumplings, 147 
Oysters, fried, to garnish 
boiled fish, 15 
, to pickle, 15 
another way, 15 
, scalloped, 14 
, to stew, 14 
patties, or small 
pie, 14 
, patties, 133 
, sauce, 110 
, sauce to beef 
steaks, 32 
P. 
Paint, to clean, 272 
Panada, made in five 
minutes, 252 
another, 253 
another, 253 
chicken, 250 
Pancakes, common, 181 
fine ones, fried 
without butter or lard,182 
Irish, 181 
of rice, 181 
Paperhangings, to clean, 272 
Parslev pie, 88 
Parsnips, to mash, 129 



INDEX. 


Cartridges, to roast, 77 


Peas, to stew, 


, potted, 77 


, soup, 


, a very eco- 


Pepper, kitchen, 


nomical way, 78 


Peppermint drops, 


, sauce for 


Perch and tench, 


them cold, 106 


Pettitoes, 



Pastes, light, for tarts 
and cheesecakes, 139 

, potatoe, 141 

See also the arti- 
cle Crust. 
Pastry, 132 to 142 

Pasty, venison, 25, 26 

, an imi- 
tation of, 27 

, of beef or mutton 
to eat as well as ven- 
ison, 24 
Patties, sweet, 134 
, resembling 1 

mincepies, 134 

, fried, 133 

, Others are under 
the names of the arti- 
cles they are made of. 
, forcemeat for, 132 
Peaches in brandy, 195 

Pears, stewed, 174 

, baked, 174 

, dried, 175 

Peas (old) soup, 94 

, to stew, 127 

(green), to keep, 129 
another 
way, as practised in 
the emperor of Rus- 
sia's kitchen, 130 



289 

124 

94 

11G 

20S 

3 

58 

Pewter (patent) porter- 
pots, to clean, 271 
Pheasants, to roast, 77 
Pickles, 118 to 124 
, that will keep 
for years, for hams, 
tongues, or beef, 6S 

, are under the 
names of the article* 
pickled. 
Pies, 88 to 90 

, are under the 
names of the principal 
articles they are mads 
of; as Apple pie, he. 
Pig's cheek for boiling, 58 
collared hei d, 59 

feet and ears, dif- 
ferent ways of dressing, 60 
fricassee, 60 

harslet, 67 

jelly of feet and ears, 60 
Pigeons broiled, 83 

in jelly, 86 

to pickle, 86 

pie, 87 

potted, 87 

roast, 88 

stewed, 85 

, another way, 86 



290 



INDEX. 



Pike, baked, 4 

, stuffing* for, 16 

Pippin pudding, 157 

tarts, 177 

, stewed golden, 175 

Plaice, an excellent way 

of dressing a large one, 11 

Plate, to clean, 273 

Plumcake, 213 

another, 214 

very good 

common ones, 220 

little ones, 
to keep long, 221 

Plumpudding, common, 152 
Podovies, or beef patties, 34 
Poor persons, hints 
respecting their 

RELIEF, 264 to 268 

Pork, to roast a leg, 59 

to boil a leg, 60 

to pickle, 64 

to salt for eating 

immediately, 27 

jelly, ' Dr. Rat- 
clyfF's restorative, 249 
steaks, 61 
loins and necks, 
roast, 67 
rolled neck, 68 
Porker 1 s head, roasted, 58 
Portable soup, a very use- 
ful thing, 101 
Potatoes, to boil, 128 
to broil, - 129 
to roast, 129 
to fry, 129 



Potatoes, to mash, 129 

cheesecakes, 185 
Lent, 160 

pastry, 142 

pasty, 88 

pudding with 
meat, 150 

pudding, an ex- 
cellent plain one, 153 
rolls, 228 
Potting birds, a very eco- 
nomical way of, 78 

to clarify butter 

for potted things, 78 

Poultry, 76 to 88 

Pound cake, good, 217 

Prawns, curry of, 7 

soup, 101 

Prune tart, 178 

Puddings, 142 to 159 

observations 

on making them, 159 

a quick 
made one, 158 

in haste, 146 
a cheap and 
not troublesome one, 
to give away to poor 
sick or young families, 264 

, Others are 
under the names of the 
principal articles they 
are made of, or their 
first names ; as Bread 
pudding, Light pud- 
ding, &c. 



INDEX. 



291 



tuff paste, rich, 138 

less rich, 138 
German, another 
way, 138 

, to prepare 
apples for 176 

, of any sorts 

of fruit, 180 

, excellent 

light ones, 157 

, curd, 156 

fknch, milk, 246 

Norfolk, 247 

<*>uecn cakes, 218 

, another way, 218 

Qiticimade pudding 1 , 158 

R. 

Rabbits, 22 

, various ways, 92 
, to make them 
taste much like a hare, 92 
potted, 93 

(roast) a very 
good sauce for them, 109 
Raised crust for custards 
or fruit, 140 

for meat- 
pies or fowls, &.c. 140 

pies, to prepare 
meat or fowls for them, 90 
Raisimvine, with cider, 245 
, without ci- 
der, 245 
Ramakins, 137 

ec 2 



Raspberry brandy, 246 

cakes, 194 

cream, 172 

jam, 193 

, another 

way, 194 

jelly, for ices 

or creams, 194 

vineg-ar, 240 

vineg-arwater, 254 

water ice, 210 

wine, 241 

, another 

way, 241 

and currant 
tart, 180 

Ratafia, 246 

Red, a beautiful one, to 
stain jellies, ices, or 
cakes, 203 

herrings, to dress, 8 
Rer.r.et, to cure maw- 
skins, for, 233 
Restorative, a great one, 248 
anothe., 248 
another, 248 
another most 
pleasant draught, 2-iS 
Rhubarb tart, 180 
Rice, savory, 136 
boiled to eat with 
curry or roast meat, 130 
buttered, 136 
cake, 223 
, another, 223 
e*udle, 261 



292 



INDEX. 



Rice caudle, for the sick, 225 
flummery, 160 
milk, in 
, ground rice milk, 260 
piecrust, 150 
pasty crust, 141 
pudding t baked, 149 
, another, 
for the family, 149 
Dutch, 145 
with fruit, 149 
, plain 149 
, rich, 152 
small, 148 
ground, 159 
Roasting meat, observa- 
tions on, 21 
fowls, 22 
hares and rab- 
bits, 22 
Rolls, excellent ones, 228 
, Brentford, 227 
, French, 227 
, potatoe, 228 
Rusks, 222 
Rustianseed pudding-, 159 

S. 

Sack cream, 162 

Saffron cakes, 228 

Saga, to prepare, 260 

to prepare to give 

away to poor families, 267 

milk, 171, 260 

pudding, 142 

-Sallad, French, 128 

, lobster, 128 



Salmon, to boil, < 

, no vinegar to be 
boiled with it, 18 

to pickle, 5 

to broil, 5 

to pot, 5 

to dry, 5 

Saloop, 264 

Sanders, 39 

Sauces, 104 to 111 * 

robart, for rumps 
or steaks, 106 

a very good sauce 
especially to hide the 
bad colour of fowls, 109 

Other sauces are 
under the names of 
different dishes, or of 
the principal articles 
the sauces are made 
of. 
Sausages, mutton, 71 

, pork, 64 

, Spadbury's Ox- 
ford, 65 
, veal, 56 
, an excellent 
sausage to eat cold, 65 
Scotch collops, 46 
Seed cake, a cheap one, - 216 
, another, 217 
Servants, useful di- 
rections to GIVE 
to them, 269 to 276 
Shalot vinegar, 



Shank jelly, 



251 



INDEX. 



293 



Shelford pudding 155 

Shrewsbury cakes 219 

Shrimp pic excellent 88 

sauce, 108 

Shrub, white currant, 247 
Sick persons, cook- 
ery tor, 247 to 264 
Skate, 16 
crimp, 17 
Smelts, to fry, 12 
Snovj balls, 151 
cream, 169 
Soals, boiled, 9 
fried, 9 
stewed, 10 
in the Portuguese 
way, 10 

stuffing" for soals 
baked, 10 

pie, another sort 
of stuffing, 11 

Sorrel, to stew, for fri- 
candeau and roast 
meat, 127 

sauce, 54 

Soups, 93 to 102 

a^acap, 100 

, a rich white one, 96 
, a plainer white 
one, 97 

, an excellent 
soup, 97 

, a baked one, to 
give away to poor fa- 
milies, 265 

, for the weakly, 
for the same purpose, 267 



, Othersoupa are 
under the names of 
the principal articles 
they are made of 
Souster, 1 44 

Spadbury's Oxford sausa- 
ges, 65 
Spinach, to stew, 126 
French way, 126 
soup, 98 
Sprats, 16 
, baked, 8 
, to make them 
taste like anchovies, 117 
Spungecake, 224 
another, with- 
out butter, 224 
Steak pudding, 151 
Steel, to take rust out of, 272 
, Stews, 124 to 127 
Stone stairs and halls, to 

clean, 272 

Stoves, to take the black 
off the bright bars in a 
few minutes, 270 

to clean the back 
ofthe. grate, the inner 
hearth, and the front 
of cast iron stoves, 271 
another way, 271 
Strawberries, to preserve 
them whole, 197 

another way, 198 
Stuffing for pike, had- 
dock, &c. 16 
for soals baked 
another sort, 11 



294 



INDEX. 



132 
16 



Stuffing, forcemeat for 
Sturgeon, to dress fresh, 
an excellent im- 
itation of sturgeon, 19 
Sucking pig, to scald, 57 

, to roast, 57 

Suet, to preserve it a 
twelve month, 40 

pudding", 151 

dumplings, 151 

Suffolk dumplings, 158 

Sugar, to clarify, 191 

Supper, small dishes for 

131, 132 

, a pretty sweet 

supper dish, 169 

Sweet dishes, 159 to 186 

Sweetbreads, 55 

, ragout, 56 

.Su'eem<rate,observations 

on, 190 

, a very fine 
crust for them, when 
to be particularly nice, 139 

, acarmel co- 
ver for sweetmeats, 206 

, excellent 
sweetmeats for tarts, 
when fruit is plentiful 193 
Syllabub, London, 161 

, Staffordshire, 161 
, a very fine So- 
mersetshire one, 162 

, everlasting or 
solid, 163 



T. 






Table Beer, excellent, to 

brew, 
Tansey, 
Tapioca jelly, 
Tarts, icing for them, 

Tarts are under 
the names of the prin- 
cipal articles they are 
made of ; as Codlin 
tarts, &c. 
Tea cakes, 

, Benton, 
, another sort, 
as biscuit, 

, another sort, 
Teal, to roast, 
Tench, 

broth, 
Thomback, 
Tin covers, to clean, 
Toast and water, for the 

sick, 
Tongues, to pickle for 
boiling, 

another way, 
, a pickle for 
them, that will keep 
for years, 

, an excellent 
mode of doing them 
to eat cold, 

, stewed, 
, and udder, to 
roast, 



237 
181 
260 
211 



219 

220 

220 

220 

83 

O 

251 
16 

271 

254 

41 

41 



68 



42 
42 

40 



INDEX. 



295 



Trifle, an excellent one, 170 
, a froth to set on, 
■which looks and eats 

well, 162* 

Tripe, 42 

Tunbridge cakes, 225 

Turbot, to boil, 1 

pie, 11 

Turkey, to boil, 70 
an excel- 
lent sauce for it boiled,106 

to roast, 76 

pulled, 77 

patties, 77 

Turnip pie, 88 

soup, 93 
Turtles, little eggs for 

them, 111 
U. 
Udder and tongue, to 

roast, 40 
V. 

Veal, breast of, 47 

rolled breast, 48 

broth, 259 

very nourishing, 249 

collops, 45 

coll!>ps of cold, 45 

fricandeau, 54 

gravy, 104 

knuckle, 43 

leg, 43 

neck, 47 

olives, 5$ 

patties, 54 

, potted, at bottom, 46 



Veal, to pot, with ham, 47 

sausages, 56 

shoulder, 48 

Vegetables, 128 to 131 

, to boil them 

green, 131 

soup, 98 

, another, 98 

Venison, to keep, 23 

, to dress, 23 

hashed, 27 

haunch, neck,&c. 25 

, stewed shoulder, 25 

, to prepare for 

pasty, 25 

pasty, 26 

, crust for, 141 

, an imitation of 

venison pasty, 27 

to make a pasty 
of beef or mutton, to 
eat as well as venison, 24 
Verder, or milk punch, 246 
Vinegar, camp, 112 

gooseberry, 116 
raspberry, 240 

shalot, 112 

sugar, 115 

wine, 116 

Vingaret, for cold fowl or 
meat, 107 

W. 
Wafers, 224 

Walnuts, to pickle, 123 

Water cakes, 223 

Whey, 2o7 



296 



INDEX. 



Whey, white wine for 
the sick, 257 

vinegar and lemon, 257 
White, to stain jellies, 



ices, or cakes, 


203 


, hogs puddings, 


66 


sauce, 


104 


Widgeon, to roast, 


83 


Wine, to refine, 


238 


roll, 


170 


, mulled, 


262 



a rich and pleasant, 244 



Several sorts of 
made wine are under 
the different names ; 
as Currant wine, 8tc. 
Y. 
Yeast, to make, 529 

another way, 22? 
, to preserve, 230 

or Suffolk dump- 
lings, 158 
Yellow, to stain jellies, 

ices or cakes, 20* 

Yorkshire cake, 228 

pudding, 155: 



THE END. 



Juzt ftubliahed, and for sale It IV. Andrews-. 
No. 1, Corn/till) Boston, 

JOHNSON'S DICTIONARY 

OF THE 

ENGLISH LANGUAGE, IN MINIATURE. 

To which are added, an alphabetical account of the 

HEATHEN DEITIES, 

AND A 

COPIOUS CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF 

Remarkable Events, Discoveries, and Invention*. 
By the Rev. JOSEPH HAMILTON, M. a. 

SECOND AMERICAN EDITION. 



ADVERTISEMENT 

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ADVERTISEMENT. 

succeeding writer, but to collect and arrange the I 
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coincides with his own particular plan. Such is 
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this small volume contains in substance the quin- 
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An epitome of the Heathen Mythology follows 
the Dictionary, more copious and correct than has 
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